Water Tank Drain Valve won't close

Petesflhtk · 04-22-2016, 10:39 AM

My 2002 Journey has a water tank drain valve, the long cable/rod within a metal sheath. The valve won't close so we are unable to fill our water tank. Seems as if the valve end is binding and won't close. Tried spraying some silicone lub on the exposed end at the black/ grey end to no avail. Any suggestions folks?

tomsm · 04-22-2016, 10:51 AM

If yours is like mine, there is a metal plate on the forward end of the water tank enclosure. Slide under the curb side, remove several screws that secure that plate and pry it off (it is seated on some kind of black goo). Behind the plate is the drain valve - you can even replace it from there if needed.

ladagobago · 04-22-2016, 04:37 PM

crawl under and push it closed. I was going to replace my cable and once I removed it from the mounting plate in the water closest, I found it would open and close if I held the sheathing straight. They have way to much of a bend in the cable. If it doesn't close completely i get under and use needle nose pliers to push the slide gate shut

Ray,IN · 04-22-2016, 10:21 PM

Don't use silicone spray on plastic parts that slide, it causes them to stick. Use another type lubricating spray. I use Liquid Wrench, but there are many good products of this type.

Petesflhtk · 04-22-2016, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Don't use silicone spray on plastic parts that slide, it causes them to stick. Use another type lubricating spray. I use Liquid Wrench, but there are many good products of this type.

Thanks... The parts are are all metal other than the handle its self.

charles tuit · 04-23-2016, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomsm

If yours is like mine, there is a metal plate on the forward end of the water tank enclosure. Slide under the curb side, remove several screws that secure that plate and pry it off (it is seated on some kind of black goo). Behind the plate is the drain valve - you can even replace it from there if needed.

Their is a good chance that you don't have to replace your cable. It may have stretched so the valve is not closing completely. After removing the access plate loosen the set screw that holds the cable to the valve, pull handle out 1/4", tighten the set screw. The cable now should have the travel to close the valve. It is worth a try before replacing the cable.

Petesflhtk · 04-23-2016, 07:03 AM

For more clarification, at the handle end... The handle is approximately 1/2" from bottoming out so the gate/flapper is being held open some how. When I push on the handle it feels 'spongy' for that final 1/2" and resists staying closed ...water never stops draining.

Now, from here, finding out that the gate is serviceable, I will be removing the plate at the front of the water tank and making the needed repair or replacement.

The cable and the sheathing appear to be galvanized, if the gate and its guides are also galvanized then I probably just have some corrosion that requires cleaning.

Thanks for the help.

Jim_HiTek · 04-23-2016, 10:19 AM

Mine does the same thing. Think I'll follow one suggestion of just getting a hose plug and clamp, and block the drain hose.

1ciderdog · 04-23-2016, 10:57 AM

On mine the tank valve was leaking so I pulled the plate and rebuilt the valve. Pretty easy job. There were calcium type deposits on the valve seal, I could have cleaned it up and reinstalled it but figured if it was out and so easy to just do it right. The valve seems to be the same company as the holding tank valves but is a much smaller version. Either 1 1/2 or 2 inch and I think brand name Camco.

Petesflhtk · 04-23-2016, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

Mine does the same thing. Think I'll follow one suggestion of just getting a hose plug and clamp, and block the drain hose.

Hi Jim...

My leak is from the valve that is actually attached to the tank not the valve that is within the water service area. The valve on the tank is the lowest point on the water tank I believe. There seems to be an ABS 90 that is coming out of the tank where the water drains from, if all else fails I could ad a spigot at this location and leave it alone...

I will be attempting to rebuild the valve as suggested by 1ciderdog..

Jim_HiTek · 04-24-2016, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petesflhtk

Hi Jim...

My leak is from the valve that is actually attached to the tank not the valve that is within the water service area. The valve on the tank is the lowest point on the water tank I believe. There seems to be an ABS 90 that is coming out of the tank where the water drains from, if all else fails I could ad a spigot at this location and leave it alone...

I will be attempting to rebuild the valve as suggested by 1ciderdog..

That's the leak I mean, too. And mine leaks. It's a steady drip, drip, drip.

There is a 'T' handle with a cable that pulls open a small gate valve that drains the tank. The hose, in my case, is in the middle undercarriage of the RV. I believe it's 1/2" or 3/4". Standard hose size. So a hose plug and clamp would work as a temporary fix.

I haven't needed to fix it yet as I'm not doing any boondocking atm, so I'm normally hooked up to shore water. Once I find a nice place to work on it, I'll try removing the valve lubing and cleaning, then the adjustment to the cable attachment, then finally, the hose plug if all else fails.

Good luck with yours too!

Petesflhtk · 04-24-2016, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

That's the leak I mean, too. And mine leaks. It's a steady drip, drip, drip.

There is a 'T' handle with a cable that pulls open a small gate valve that drains the tank. The hose, in my case, is in the middle undercarriage of the RV. I believe it's 1/2" or 3/4". Standard hose size. So a hose plug and clamp would work as a temporary fix.

I haven't needed to fix it yet as I'm not doing any boondocking atm, so I'm normally hooked up to shore water. Once I find a nice place to work on it, I'll try removing the valve lubing and cleaning, then the adjustment to the cable attachment, then finally, the hose plug if all else fails.

Good luck with yours too!

Jim, My mistake.. Yes then we have the same leak, just different drainage apparatus..
By the way I enjoy reading your blog.. Our Winnebago's are very similar..

Ray,IN · 04-24-2016, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petesflhtk

For more clarification, at the handle end... The handle is approximately 1/2" from bottoming out so the gate/flapper is being held open some how. When I push on the handle it feels 'spongy' for that final 1/2" and resists staying closed ...water never stops draining.
Thanks for the help.

That is exactly how my dump valves acted, and my control cables are the same as yours.
After replacing the cables 3X, my extended service contract provider finally agreed to replace all dump valves under the contract. There was nothing wrong with the replacement cables, and the valves work as designed after they were replaced. BTW, since my dump valves are in a difficult to access, the ESC provider (Crossroads RV) paid $1,400 to replace those 3 valves.