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Old 05-09-2009, 02:32 PM   #1
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Water Heater Soleniod Failure - Winterizing System

Well after a long bicycle ride through Myrtle Beach Travel Park with 3 days left on our vacation we returned to the MH and found water just pouring out of the utility compartment. It was about 7pm and about all I could do is take the cover off the area that housed the plumbing. After turning the water back on the problem was clearly evident. The solenoid that controls the bypass of the water heater had failed and water was pouring from the top of the solenoid. It was getting dark and all we could do is turn off the water and start up the repair in the morning.

The next morning it was like back to tent camping and shower in the bath house! After breakfast I reviewed the plumbing diagram and called CoachNet but they only send a mobile repairer if the MH is disabled. I then called my dealer and all I could get from them is "that solenoid is obsolete and not made any longer and we just insert a manual valve." Well that was not much immediate help so I placed a call to Winnebago. In less than 5 minutes I had talked to a technician and was advised how to plumb around the valve. He did also confirm the solenoid is no longer produced.

The next process was removing the valve but I really did not have anything with me to cut the pipe. After walking around and scratching my head I asked the DW if we still had the "Ginsu" knife. We did so with the help of "Mr Ginsu" the pipe was cut like a hot knife through butter.

Now off to the hardware store. The owner of the hardware store showed me the best solution, a quick snap on type fitting, but he says you have to have a smooth straight cut. I had a piece of the pipe with me and he said "it can't be like that." It was a little rough with the "Ginsu." Believe it or not this total stranger loaned me his pipe cutter and it was back to work on plumbing. Had it fixed in less than 5 minutes. See photos below of valve and new fittings. This is good until winter.

I'm curious if any of you have had the same problem and what did you do to permanently fix the problem. I have another solenoid valve still left in the compartment which switches the pump to pull antifreeze from the jug. I guess I need to remove it as well. I would like to have easy access to the valves and that sure is not possible once the cover is replaced.


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Old 05-10-2009, 02:23 PM   #2
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After two replacements under warranty, I had the bypass solenoid in our coach replaced with a manual bypass valve. It looks like that would work for your setup too. The winterizing solenoid is still there in mine, but I haven't used it since early 2005 before we started full-timing. My replacements were not due to leaks, but due to bypass failures that I much later determined to be a faulty check valve in the WH "hot out" line.

In my coach, both soleniods were located in a basement compartment where the water pump is so access is easy by simply opening the compartment door.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:03 AM   #3
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Same as Paul. The first time I used the winterization valves, I filled my hot water tank with anti-freeze. Haven't used them since 2003. Took them out in 2004 when I put in a new water pump and removed the accumulator tank. Put in manual valves.

In our unit they are easy to get to. Hope you're able to come away with a solution that works for you.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ua40j View Post
Same as Paul. The first time I used the winterization valves, I filled my hot water tank with anti-freeze. Haven't used them since 2003. Took them out in 2004 when I put in a new water pump and removed the accumulator tank. Put in manual valves.

In our unit they are easy to get to. Hope you're able to come away with a solution that works for you.
Do you have any pictures that you can email or share with me? Did you put the manual valves in yourself?
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:12 PM   #5
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I also removed the electric valves and replaced with manual valves. When I close off the valves, it prevents antifreeze from going back up into the water tank and from going to the water heater. I also put in one valve that opens up a line to the antifreeze so it can be pumped from the antifreeze tank through the system. In total, I have put in place five manual valves which I use to winterize the system.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:35 PM   #6
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Here's what mine looks like ...manual bypass valve is the orange handled item in upper center. The winterizing solenoid is still in place. (can we not upload a small photo here?? ...we have to link to one elsewhere??)

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Old 05-20-2009, 05:40 PM   #7
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Question to ua40J: Just curious, I understand you replaced your water pump, but why did you remove the accumulator tank? Even with a new pump wouldn't the tank provide a fair amount of water prior to the pump starting?
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:45 PM   #8
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The first reason for removing the accumulator tank was because the pump manufacturer said that it wasn't needed.

The second reason was to create more space in that compartment.

The third reason (I may have these in the wrong order ) was because the plumbing to the accumulator tank was making noise the co-pilot didn't like.

My pictures look just like Pauls....except I'm missing the accumulator tank.
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