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Old 10-20-2007, 06:49 AM   #21
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On the hot water heater subject,I have an Alfa with a Atwood water heater. When I use in the electric mode, the water gets to hot!!And it will open the expansion valve.Is there a adjustable t/stat-my owners guide does't show one for the ac-just the gas?
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Old 10-20-2007, 12:20 PM   #22
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">What I did was punch 4ea. 3/4" (or 1", don't remember) holes in a row, in the door with a chassis punch, just above the factory slot. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why at the top? I would have thought that the bottom would be better for air flow.

I was thinking of following the fan route (I have extra fans laying around from a career with computers) and cutting a 3 inch hole. The where is my current question.

Thanks,
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Old 10-20-2007, 02:45 PM   #23
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Check out bill j's pictures of his mod. http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showph...500&ppuser=471

Tom N mentioned in another post that the water heaters on the 2006 and up have an additional slot.
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:15 PM   #24
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bruceh:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">What I did was punch 4ea. 3/4" (or 1", don't remember) holes in a row, in the door with a chassis punch, just above the factory slot. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why at the top? I would have thought that the bottom would be better for air flow.

I was thinking of following the fan route (I have extra fans laying around from a career with computers) and cutting a 3 inch hole. The where is my current question.

Thanks, </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Not at the top, but around the burner level, or wherever the 1.5"x12"+ slot is that Winnebago cut in the door. I think it's about 30% from the bottom, and it doesn't take fans (and power) to stay lit. Either way it's almost like this was a recognized problem that Winnebago did their part on, and Atwood ignored it (ie- no modified door).
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Old 10-23-2007, 05:38 AM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by flints:
On the hot water heater subject,I have an Alfa with a Atwood water heater. When I use in the electric mode, the water gets to hot!!And it will open the expansion valve.Is there a adjustable t/stat-my owners guide does't show one for the ac-just the gas? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Flints
Here is a link to adjustable stats for an Atwood WH.
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/wate...cessories.html
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Old 10-31-2007, 08:33 AM   #26
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After reading this thread and doing some experiments, I came up with a solution that works for me. I have been having problems with the water heater going into retry mode and finally quitting. The clue to open the access door was extremely helpful. It was very clear that the unit was being starved for air. I also camp at fairly high altitudes (about 8500 ft.) and the problems were much worse there.

Basically, I combined what I read here into one solution. For high altitude use, I added a fan on a switch so that I can use or not use it. Until I get back up to altitude, I won't really know how effective it is.

I picked up a 4" louver (they call it a 4" Mill Mini Louver) with a built in screen at True Value Hardware store for the princely sum of $4.



With a 4 " hole cutter, I cut the two holes for the louvers. With tin snips, I opened the back of the louver to accept a 4" computer fan. The fan only pulls 0.3 amps so nothing should get overloaded. I pulled 12 volts from the switched (left) side of the thermostat and ran it to my switch. The fan will only run when my switch is ON and the water heater flame is on.

I used the fan mounting holes as a template for drilling the mounting holes.

So far, it works great at home (about 1300 ft.) without using he fan. With any luck at all, I won't need the fan but wanted to try a comprehensive solution.

The swooshing' sound that went away when the door was opened is gone and the flame is much more consistent.

Closed view

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/data/5...035_Small_.JPG

Open view



Thanks to all who contributed, it was most helpful.
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Old 10-31-2007, 05:25 PM   #27
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Bruce

I like your mount much better than mine. Over the winter months, I am going to switch out my fan mount to use your idea - thanks for the hint of how to "build the better mousetrap." I had mounted my fan right below the exhaust housing and it was blowing crossways in the heater. Your idea is pulling the air into the heater -- much more efficent.
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