Water heater anode rod

[CrispyBones]

Attached is a picture of the drain for my water heater. I've had a Starcraft TT prior to owning my Minnie and I was able to use an anode rod. The drain hole had threads inside (female threads). However, the water heater I now own has a pipe that sticks out and has male threads. Am I to assume that an anode rod can no longer be used? I can't seem to find an anode rod for this type of condition.

[creativepart]

Some WH use an Anode Rod and some do not. Without you mentioning the brand/model of your water heater it’s tough to answer your question. The more info you provide the more we can help.

[Our ride]

That is just a pipe nipple to get water away from heater a little better.Remove it with a pipe wrench, then you can install aa anode rod as usual.

[CrispyBones]

Creative, yeah I just know that it's a Dometic WH. I'll have to get back into the unit to determine the model number. It's definitely different than my Starcraft in that it uses both electric and propane.

Our ride, thanks for the feedback. That makes sense.

[dkoldman]

Was it like that when you bought it ( empty?) If not how was it plugged or capped off?

You need the Model number anyway if for no other reason, to get your manual which I assume you do not have.

I have Suburban water heater and that take the anode. It depends on what material was used to make the tank. It can vary from model to model

[CrispyBones]

dk, Gotcha. The manual that came with the unit is for a Dometic WH. There are 3 model numbers listed on the manual of which I don't know which one pertains to mine. I haven't had a chance to check. However, if I had to guess I have the WH-6GEA. The number 6 being the size of the WH (6 Gal.) and the GE being Gas (Propane) and Electric. Those 3 items I'm sure of. As for the material makeup that isn't listed in the manual. From videos I've seen Atwood/Dometic are made out of aluminum?

I purchased this unit from a private seller and the pipe nipple was already there and it was empty. I've perused the manual and nowhere does it reference the pipe nipple nor does it reference the anode rod. Although, I believe the anode rod isn't a requirement as it is more a recommendation by TT and MH aficionados.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by CrispyBones

dk, Gotcha. The manual that came with the unit is for a Dometic WH. There are 3 model numbers listed on the manual of which I don't know which one pertains to mine. I haven't had a chance to check. However, if I had to guess I have the WH-6GEA. The number 6 being the size of the WH (6 Gal.) and the GE being Gas (Propane) and Electric. Those 3 items I'm sure of. As for the material makeup that isn't listed in the manual. From videos I've seen Atwood/Dometic are made out of aluminum?

I purchased this unit from a private seller and the pipe nipple was already there and it was empty. I've perused the manual and nowhere does it reference the pipe nipple nor does it reference the anode rod. Although, I believe the anode rod isn't a requirement as it is more a recommendation by TT and MH aficionados.

Aluminum tank does not require an anode rod. That is why it is not mentioned in the manual.

Looks like you missing the cap to close off the nipple; so you can fill it up?

https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/outdoo...ng%20aesthetic.

[CrispyBones]

Yup. You're right. I was just watching some videos on aluminum (Dometic) vs steel (Suburban). Aluminum doesn't corrode being the obvious. The link you provided for the manual specifically states no anode rod required.

FYI, I do have the cap for it. It's just not shown on the picture.

Thanks for the feedback

[l1v3fr33ord1]

CrispyBones-

For a decade or more there have been three major manufacturers for water heaters:

Atwood
Dometic
Suburban

Dometic bought Atwood's water heater line a few years ago and has since discontinued it in favor of their own. I think your Minnie is too new to have an Atwood, so it's likely either a Dometic or a Suburban.

If you should find a label on the exterior of the water heater listing the make and model please share that with us. We can give better advice with that info.

Here are the rules-of-thumb on anode rods:

1) If the water heater is a Suburban with a porcelain-lined steel tank, it requires an anode rod.
2) If the water heater is an Atwood with an aluminum tank, it does not require an anode rod.

The Dometic WH-6GEA installation and maintenance manual (link here) omits any mention of an anode rod. One could assume from that that an anode rod is not required. Assumptions being what they are ...

The Dometic WH-6GEA uses a female plastic (probably nylon) drain cap, part number 92102 (pack of two). This appears to confirm it's a Dometic water heater (both the Suburban and Atwood use male anodes or plugs, respectively). A link to one supplier offering part 92102 is here. By the way, you should be sure to use the manufacturer's cap; they choose its design and material for water heater safety. Keep a spare on hand.

Dometic documents for the WH-6GEA , including a parts list, are available online at this link.

Note: This won't interest you if your Minnie does have a Dometic. For others who come across this thread, it could be helpful. There are many RVs with Atwood six-gallon water heaters. The Dometic is not the same shape as the discontinued Atwood. Neither is the Suburban. Both Dometic and Suburban "standard" products require some rework on the opening and the door to replace an Atwood. Seeing an opportunity to take business from Dometic, Suburban has added a same-size-and-shape-as-Atwood replacement to their product line. It's listed as the "Suburban Advantage Direct Fit" model number SAW6D (link here).

[CrispyBones]

You are correct. Apparently Atwood used to have a rectangular shaped WH. That was one of the distinguishing characteristics between Suburban and Atwood. But, since they were bought out by Dometic they've since changed their footprint to match Suburban going from rectangle to square.

[CrispyBones]

Confirmed that the Dometic WH I own is a WH-6GEA.

[hoosierrun]

My Atwood Water Heater is aluminum and does not have an anode road.

[Morich]

Just as a small point that looks like a much better design than I have found before. One of the things that has always bothered me was how to fit something to carry the water out past the RV side to avoid it running down the RV.
With this looking likean easy spot to hold a tube like PVC or even screw something on, that makes me like it much better.
The type with anode to avoid corrosion have always seemed the worst but both normally required a plug and left it hard to keep the water off the RV side.

Holding an anode at the right angle to get the threads restarted was always a bit iffy for me.

Nice to see somebody thinking and making life a bit easier!

[Bobn1957]

Make sure the nipple is aluminum like the tank and not galvanized steel because this will cause galvanic corrosion!

[CrispyBones]

Originally Posted by Morich

Just as a small point that looks like a much better design than I have found before. One of the things that has always bothered me was how to fit something to carry the water out past the RV side to avoid it running down the RV.
With this looking likean easy spot to hold a tube like PVC or even screw something on, that makes me like it much better.
The type with anode to avoid corrosion have always seemed the worst but both normally required a plug and left it hard to keep the water off the RV side.

Holding an anode at the right angle to get the threads restarted was always a bit iffy for me.

Nice to see somebody thinking and making life a bit easier!

That is true, Richard. On my old Atwood when I'd drain the tank it would make a mess.

[CrispyBones]

Originally Posted by Bobn1957

Make sure the nipple is aluminum like the tank and not galvanized steel because this will cause galvanic corrosion!

Bob, Hadn't thought about the pipe makeup with respect to galv or aluminum. Thanks for the heads up.

[Morich]

When having a heater without anode rod, I liked using some type of "plastic/nylon" plug as a way to make me feel safer on not cross threading the threads in the heater. Checking the temp rating of a cap for this might be a good move but I never found them melted.
Avoiding metal to metal makes a nylon cap look good?