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Old 12-23-2011, 03:29 PM   #1
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Shower Valve Replacement

The time has come to replace the shower valve in our 2002 Itasca. It appears to be an easy replacement but wanted to hear from anyone who has done their own and are there any hidden issues?
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #2
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Replaced mine with a Moen, single handle not long ago. Biggest problem was getting PEX tubing off the old fittings. Replaced the old fittings with SharkBite fittings when going back, made things a lot easier. Had to relocate backer to attach the valve to but was not a big problem. Not much room to work but I could pull my valve out slightly to attach fittings and hoses.
Good luck and just take your time.
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:40 AM   #3
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We replaced ours a few years ago with a Moen single handle unit we got at Home Depot. It was a direct fit right down to the mounting screws that hold the valve to the wall. We reused all the plumbing parts so the only expense was the valve and a little teflon tape.
The fittings will come off the old valve fairly easily if you warm it a bit with a hair dryer. Before you unscrew the plastic nuts from the fittings in the valve wrap several turns of electrical tape around the tube a few inches below the nuts. If you don't the nuts may slide down the tube inside the wall.

It only took about an hour to remove and replace the valve. Most of the time was spent carefully removing the caulk so I didn't damage the shower wall, and chasing one of the nuts that slid down the tube. Fortunately we have a cold air return on the other side of the wall.
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:05 PM   #4
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Im in the process of doing the same. Im trying to remove all the gold stuff and replace all with Oiled Bronze. The shower should be done today.
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:40 PM   #5
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Hi All,
Repalced our shower valve with a Moen from Home Depo. Original equipment from Winnebago was almost impossible to regulate temperture. Wasted too much water and holding tank space.

The new valve matched perfectly, but was real "Bitch" to install. Very little room to work and the old pipes [plastic tubes] were hard to get off the fittings. Had to cut away part of the shower stall to make room to work. Replaced the cut out area with new white plastic panel that matches the original stall.

Got the job done, but not a whole bunch of fun. I have great respect for the afore folks who did the repalcemeny in an hour. I spent close to a day.

Most happy with the results however.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:43 PM   #6
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Before we replaced ours we talked to a Moen Rep at GNR. We would have bought a valve there but he was out of the one that was a direct fit for our coach. He wrote down the model number and told us it was an in stock item at Home Depot. He was absolutely on the money which made the project quite easy.
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #7
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So what model number is it? I am sure what you had is the standard plastic garbage found on all RVs.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:13 PM   #8
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So what model number is it? I am sure what you had is the standard plastic garbage found on all RVs.
+1

I would also like to know, as I expect it to be the same as my craptastic plastic one.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:11 AM   #9
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Did ours rather quick, found an access panel hiding behind the sliding bedroom door. Removed the panel and there it was. Look for a hidden panel or make one
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:05 AM   #10
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Here's a copy of the post I made concerning the shower valve replacement back in 2006.

"I just finished replacing the shower valve in our 2001 Adventurer to avoid the continuing scald/freeze dance.

I used a Moen chrome lever handle shower valve model #L82680. It's for a shower only since it doesn't have the bottom tap for a tub spout.

It cost $79.00 at the local Home Depot, and only comes in the chrome finish. Unlike the original there is no volume control, only on/off and temperature control. We have a hand held shower with on/off and volume control control so there was no need to get the more expensive volume control valve.

It took about an hour to install and was almost a direct replacement. The only thing I had to change was to move 1 screw that holds the valve to the wall. The original valve had 2 self tapping screws at the bottom holding it to a plate in the wall. The new valve has 1 screw on the top and another on the bottom. The bottom screw is in the same place as the original so I just used a portable drill with a screw driver attachment and moved the second screw to the top.

The new valve has almost 360* of adjustment as opposed to the less than 180* of the original.

If you do a replacement a word for the wise. Wrap a few turns of electrical tape around each tube a few inches below the nut that attaches the tube to the plastic fitting. I didn't and 1 nut slid down the tube. Luckily I could remove an air return vent on the other side of the wall to reach the tube and slide the nut back up to where it belongs. If you aren't lucky enough to have a vent on the other side it could be a long and frustrating fishing trip trying to retrieve the nut. "

If you do a search using the words "shower valve replacement" its in a post entitled "Winnie Shower Valve Adjustment"
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:12 AM   #11
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Here's a copy of the post I made concerning the shower valve replacement back in 2006.
Thanks for the reply, Hikerdogs. I need to keep the tub function so I guess I'm out on this one. I'm glad you took the time to post the info back then, though. I know MY mind wouldn't remember the model # after 5 years... (too much -->)
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:29 AM   #12
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Moen does make another one that looks exactly the same but has a port for the tub. We almost bought that one not knowing the difference when a sales person helped us find the right one. If you take the model number to the store they'll show you at least half a dozen that have the same mounting configuration with different options like the tub port, volume control, and temperature control. Most come in a variety of colors. The one we bought just happened to be the least expensive one that fit our needs.
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Old 12-26-2011, 05:05 PM   #13
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Moen does make another one that looks exactly the same but has a port for the tub. We almost bought that one not knowing the difference when a sales person helped us find the right one. If you take the model number to the store they'll show you at least half a dozen that have the same mounting configuration with different options like the tub port, volume control, and temperature control. Most come in a variety of colors. The one we bought just happened to be the least expensive one that fit our needs.
Awesome!!! Thanks again Hikerdog! Will do.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:21 PM   #14
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Got the shower done. I used the existing Moen shower valve. Im wanting to get rid of all the gold (as much as I can) and went to oiled rubbed bronze.I just changed the trim on th valve but replaced the handle and hose with Delta. This was not a cheap replacement. I tried (fairly inexpensive)Durafaucet.com but their oiled rubbed bronze looked like copper. Didnt match what so ever. I changed the kitchen sink faucet as well. I just needthe drinkin water dispenser and the bathroom faucet and I will be done playing rv plumber.
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Old 12-28-2011, 06:10 AM   #15
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4J's, what about the shower stall replacement, my better
half wants me to replace it with silver finish. We took all
the hinges, handles and anything else gold and sanded and
painted them silver. Hate the gold, very dated.

Phelpo
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:05 AM   #16
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4J's, what about the shower stall replacement, my better
half wants me to replace it with silver finish. We took all
the hinges, handles and anything else gold and sanded and
painted them silver. Hate the gold, very dated.

Phelpo

My son works at a Home Depot and he says they have a whole shower stall/door replacement that will pop right back in there. I havent checked it out yet. I hate the gold. The only gold left in the coach is the cabinet hinges and the shower stall.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:39 AM   #17
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So you can replace the whole shebang from inside the shower? I really want a thermostatic control like I have at home, not just an anti-scald type.
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