Sewer Valves

Ptribbey · 05-29-2008, 08:32 AM

I have had my coach for nearly 5 years, and during that time I have had to change my cable release sewer valves almost every year. All but one time it wasn't that the valve leaked but it was because the valve became so stiff I could barely operate it. This year my black valve again was very stiff, and I was lazy so I put it off, but the valve became so stiff it broke the cable. I replaced the cable but stopped short of changing the valve. I decided to try the valve lubricants available, one was coco oil, and another was unstated what it was. Well this didn't work the valve was still bad, oh yea it worked when only the coco oil was in the valve but as soon as it washed out back to the same problem.

Well I found a solution I wanted to share with any of you that may have a problem like this. I washed the black tank out good, and drained it. I purchased a gallon container of WD40 and poured about a cup full into the tank. I let it set for about a half hour, the I placed a bucket at the sewer discharge to catch the oil, and worked the valve rapidly open, and closed. I then washed the tank again and the valve acted like a new one. I have waited for three days, cleaning the tank every morning to verify the fix was successful. I am here to report it looks like this was a good fix and the valve still operates like it was new. Ah, another wonderful job for WD40.

Ptribbey · 05-29-2008, 08:32 AM

I have had my coach for nearly 5 years, and during that time I have had to change my cable release sewer valves almost every year. All but one time it wasn't that the valve leaked but it was because the valve became so stiff I could barely operate it. This year my black valve again was very stiff, and I was lazy so I put it off, but the valve became so stiff it broke the cable. I replaced the cable but stopped short of changing the valve. I decided to try the valve lubricants available, one was coco oil, and another was unstated what it was. Well this didn't work the valve was still bad, oh yea it worked when only the coco oil was in the valve but as soon as it washed out back to the same problem.

Well I found a solution I wanted to share with any of you that may have a problem like this. I washed the black tank out good, and drained it. I purchased a gallon container of WD40 and poured about a cup full into the tank. I let it set for about a half hour, the I placed a bucket at the sewer discharge to catch the oil, and worked the valve rapidly open, and closed. I then washed the tank again and the valve acted like a new one. I have waited for three days, cleaning the tank every morning to verify the fix was successful. I am here to report it looks like this was a good fix and the valve still operates like it was new. Ah, another wonderful job for WD40.

jgore · 05-29-2008, 09:47 AM

I have seen a listing of 101 uses for WD40. I guess this makes 102. I've put it in my "memory" bank.

CHIPPYSGT · 05-29-2008, 11:18 AM

I saw on the net some time ago where some guy drilled a hole in the casings of his dump valves and then screwed a zerk fitting into them. He gave them a shot of grease on occassion an says it prevents binding valves.

I think the WD-40 is a good idea but probably needs to be followed up with some kind of lubricant. WD stands for water displacement and the free feeling might go away if you don't put some kind of lub in the tank. JMHO.

ChasA · 05-29-2008, 05:46 PM

Chippy is right, WD40 is very temporary lubricant. WD does indeed come from "water displacement" and it was the 40th formula. As a lubricant, spit is just as good, except our wives find that disgusting, and it's hard to aim spit without that little tube.
Chas

ChasA · 05-29-2008, 06:08 PM

Pat,
I would keep very close eye on those valves, some years ago I had some plastic components completely disintegrate several weeks after spraying the with WD40. I have only used WD40 from a spray can and the damage could have been caused by the propellant rather than the WD40 itself. I recommend Super-Lube or Break-Free. Both are teflon based, waterproof, safe for use on anything--plus they really are lubricants.
Chas

AFChap · 05-30-2008, 06:46 PM

Pat

I've had "tight valves" on my Ultimate Advantage, and recently discovered the black valve problem seems to be related to the way the cable is routed AND the cable itself needing lubrication inside the housing. (I pushed hard enough to disconnect the cable first from the outer end, then when I fixed that I disconnected it from the inner end! I found I can easily open and close the valve by hand (reaching way in there to it!), but when using the remote pull it is very tight. I have improved mine some by using lots of spray silicon lubricant into the cable housing end. I would like take some length off the cable itself, but that would make it much mroe difficult to take apart next time I have to do that!

Ptribbey · 05-31-2008, 03:15 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I will let you all know what happens, and the effects "down the road" from the use of WD40. I was about to change out the black valve anyway so I don't fell I have anything to lose. It has been a week or so now, and the valve still operates like a new one.

Rock-Rocker · 05-31-2008, 05:23 AM

FWIW I have had more success with Silicon than WD-40 where there is low temp/high wet areas. Also it seems that after the Silicon has had the time to dry it lasts longer and doesn't attract dirt as does with WD-40. I'm able to reach up to my valves with a couple of straws taped together so I don't have the issue of having to put anything down in the tank. I try to lube everything when I get it ready for the first trip of the season. I don't have the cables on my valves but has anyone tried the Cable Care Kit by Protect All (www.protectall.com) that is designed for lubing throttle & clutch cables on motorcycles, snowmobiles, watercraft, etc? This comes with everything needed to inject the lubricant into the cable. I use it on everything I have that has cables. Never have had a problem. HTH