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Old 12-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #1
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Replacing Dump Valves

I have a 2000 Ultimate Advantage that I need to replace the black water dump valve on. My thoughts were to go ahead and replace both valves while I had it apart, but it looks like a pretty good job just to get to them. As a matter of fact I dont think I can reach the back one (grey water). Has anyone replaced these? Any advice would be appreciated.

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Old 12-23-2012, 09:46 AM   #2
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Mine we right in front of me in my water bay.I read up on here about changing them and the best advice I got was after a really good cleaning and flushing, and then tip the coach to the side to drain the tanks. After draining good, tip the coach to the other side using the jacks so no water will be preasant when the valves are pulled. It took me about 1/2 hour to change them both out and there was no smell , I was surprised. Good luck
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:53 AM   #3
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Palehorse gives good advice. Change them both while you're in there. I don't have an Ultimate coach but on my Ellipse they're not too tough to get at. I had to remove the entire "Y" connector which connects the black and grey outlets together. Then, everything went back together... a little tight... but a bit of soapy water helped lubricate the rubber fittings and made it easier. You also want to lube the new valves with plumbers grease when you reassemble.

Good luck.

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Old 12-23-2012, 10:04 AM   #4
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Sounds like a "Sh**Y job to me!!!!!
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:50 AM   #5
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If you are sure you need to replace them then doing both at once is a splendid idea. Even better idea if they are difficult to access; not something you want to do twice.

There have been some post on how to clean the valves or free sticking valves if that is the problem. Before I went to the mat with this I would make sure I have exercised every option to make them work properly. They are a simple device not much there to go wrong.

Otherwise you are getting some good tips from posters. Good luck.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:43 PM   #6
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I replaced seals only on both valves this past summer. I inspected my valve bodies and determined that they were in excellent shape. I think I did a lot of extra and unnecessary work because I was doing it blind. The valves are attached to the hard line with a rubber coupling with gear clamps holding it together. When I reinstalled I think I could have removed the entire coupling without removing the metal panel with all the water connections on it. Try using a small 1/4" drive socket set and remove the gear clamps first. You will need a mirror to see everything. It should come apart and drop down so you can remove the whole assy. If not, start taking things lose one at a time untill it clears. 3 sets of seals on Ebay-$15 delivered to you door. Complete valve assys. are much more expensive. Be sure to lube all seals with mineral oil and pull cables with a good lubricant before re- assembly. Have fun. It's a s___y job but at upwards of $105/hr labor rate, it's worth it. Wear disposable gloves.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:50 PM   #7
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I think new valve assemblies are about $15 each.

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Old 12-23-2012, 04:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickO View Post
I think new valve assemblies are about $15 each.

Rick
Cable accuated 3" valves, as on our Adventurer, start at about $25 ea. on Ebay and most run $48 each. Ebay, search RV Parts, Valterra. Should find what you need.
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Cable accuated 3" valves, as on our Adventurer, start at about $25 ea. on Ebay and most run $48 each. Ebay, search RV Parts, Valterra. Should find what you need.
I didn't realize that the OP's Ultimate had cable actuated valves. My Ellipse has these 3" Slide Valve with Gate Seals - Valterra T1003 VPM - Sewer Valves - Camping World and I "assumed" the Ultimates would too. There's that word "assume" again....

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Old 12-23-2012, 04:39 PM   #10
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Mine were around $15.00 each like Rick said, so for about $30.00 I changed both grey and black valves. Just did it last april.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickO View Post
I didn't realize that the OP's Ultimate had cable actuated valves. My Ellipse has these 3" Slide Valve with Gate Seals - Valterra T1003 VPM - Sewer Valves - Camping World and I "assumed" the Ultimates would too. There's that word "assume" again....

Rick
I'm not familiar with the Ultimate system, just the Adventurer. I would hope that his ain't like mine. It was a real PITA just to get to everything and the loops in the cables didn't help. If ya got cables maybe I was a help. If ya don't you're lucky as a tall dog in a meat house.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:21 PM   #12
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Ronnie Tucker,
To more easily access the valves you sill have to remove the side wall of the compartment in front of the wet bay. You will also have to remove the wet bay metal "wall". You should plan on replacing the valve assembly to the tanks rubber connector. There are two of them. Your rubber is probably aged out and you will have to remove them to access the valve assembly anyway. Order them from Lichtsinn. Remove the whole valve assembly via the wet bay and then replace the seals on the blades. Carefully check your cables and if in question replace them too. Some plumbers grease on the new seals helps hold them in place during re-assembly. It's not too difficult of a job.
BTW.....the compartment wall is easy to remove.....about 8 Phillips head screws
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:55 AM   #13
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Guys, thanks for all the replies. Lots of good advice. I did get all the metal panels pulled out of the wet bay. It is still going to be a real pain to get to the valves. Wish my arms were about 6" longer!

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Old 12-24-2012, 08:24 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by RonnieTucker View Post
Guys, thanks for all the replies. Lots of good advice. I did get all the metal panels pulled out of the wet bay. It is still going to be a real pain to get to the valves. Wish my arms were about 6" longer!

RonnieTucker
Remove the carpeted panel on the adjoining sidewall of the compartment just forwarad of the wet bay. Very easy removal adn the valves will then be right in front of you. It's impossible to do them without removing the wall
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:29 AM   #15
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I replaced just the seal in my gray (which was furtherist in as I recall) in apx 2007. I could not remove the valve body w/o totally removing the entire assembly and did not want to go there. It took me all day from start to finish. You definitely have to remove the forward compartment wall and cut out some styrofoam insulation, but even then mine was still difficult due to metal framework in that wall. Idiot dealer that replaced one of mine under warranty cut a smalk square hole in the compartment wall, and a round hole in the metal floor under the valve ...nicely covered both holes, but much easier (and less stupid!) to just take out screws and remove the wall panel.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:47 AM   #16
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I was thinking the same thing about going in the bay next to it and cutting an access hole to get to it , but am I understanding that whole wall will come with just removing screws? Thanks

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Old 12-24-2012, 11:01 AM   #17
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I was thinking the same thing about going in the bay next to it and cutting an access hole to get to it , but am I understanding that whole wall will come with just removing screws? Thanks

RonnieTucker
Yes ...simply remove visible screws along the edges of the wall panel. On my 40e that is a pass through compartment and the complete wall from side to side is two (maybe 3?) panels.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:36 AM   #18
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AFChap, I just went out and looked at mine and you are spot on! On mine it is a pass through bay as well and looks like the panel has one seam in the middle with about 8 or 10 screws holding it in. Not even going to have to take the carpet off the panel either. Thanks a ton for that bit of information! That will save me a lot of grief.

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Old 12-24-2012, 01:53 PM   #19
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When you get the wall out you will see some metal at the bottom going across the coach. Remove some of the styrofoam along that metal piece. You will then see how much styrofoam to remove to give you pretty good access.
You did see my post advising you to order the two 3" rubber connectors that will have to be removed to be able to remove the valve assemblies.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:11 AM   #20
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2000 ua 40j

My vales are starting to pull hard on our 2000 UA 40J should I go ahead and change or just wait
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