Remove shower controls without damaging things

[DangerD]

Our shower Valve, hose and head needs replacing. I've gotten this far. Is this cover behind the shower valves removed to replace them? I thought the "nobs" would come off to expose screws. They don't seem to.

[powercat_ras]

Yes, those 4 plastic caps cover 4 screws and the trim panel can then pulled out after removing them and breaking the adhesive caulk seal of the trim panel to the shower surround.

The caps do come off unless someone expoxied or superglued them on because they were falling off.

Worst case you can order a new trim panel and it will come with 4 new caps if you end up destroying the caps and or trim panel to get to the screws to get it off.

Be sure to mark the PEX lines right and left, and wrap some tape around the PEX lines leaving some length hanging on the ends so if one or the other falls down into the hole after disconnecting from the old faucet you can pull it back up thru the hole.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

Yes, those 4 plastic caps cover 4 screws and the trim panel can then pulled out after removing them and breaking the adhesive caulk seal of the trim panel to the shower surround.

The caps do come off unless someone expoxied or superglued them on because they were falling off.

Worst case you can order a new trim panel and it will come with 4 new caps if you end up destroying the caps and or trim panel to get to the screws to get it off.

Be sure to mark the PEX lines right and left, and wrap some tape around the PEX lines leaving some length hanging on the ends so if one or the other falls down into the hole after disconnecting from the old faucet you can pull it back up thru the hole.

Randy is right, I used a razor blade to break the seal on the backplate after removing the white screw cap covers.

[DangerD]

The previous owner had this off at least 4 times as i count that many mounting holes. Have new faucet and hose going in tomorrow.

[lwerman]

If you haven't completed this job yet, may I make a suggestion?

When I changed mine, the four screws holding the trim panel were just screwed into the fiberglass shower wall, which IMHO was flimsy, but saves weight.
I took 2 pieces of 1" x 2" x 10" (as I recall) lumber and used them as backing.
I made sure I could get them inside the opening, put adhesive on one of them, slid into place so it didn't block the faucet hole but right along the long edge of the hole, then held it in-place with the two mounting screws. Then did the other side. One wood block across the top and one on the bottom.
The assembly feels much better now, especially with the new style faucet that only turns 90 deg instead of the old one that was a full turn.

[DangerD]

Most definitely will do that next time.

[peggwn]

While on this subject, could one replace the idiotic single knob style where one must figure out where hot and cold are while simultaneously attempting to regulate flow so as not to scald oneself?

DW wants a homestyle two-lever mixer. Secretly, so would I. Our old hands struggle with that confusing and difficult to manipulate 1960s "Modern" globe of a mixer.

[DangerD]

Usually two lines feed the mixer. Hot left and cold right. I would think you could run hot for awhile until it is hot for about 30 seconds. Then remove the handle open up the lines and feel which line is warm inside. Depending on your type of plumbing you can purchase the connections to separate the two lines and install a two handle type. If I understood your question correctly.

[peggwn]

DangerD - That part I can do, it's the removal of the existing single-handle valve and replacing with a two handle set-up. I've checked out the shower wall and I actuall think there is an access panel in the shower wall where the handle is installed. I'll explore that when it gets a little warmer. I'll try to remember to take pictures and share. Thanks.

[Rossi6998]