Ok in the ongoing saga of the 2004 Winnebago Brave 34D, new to us, the toilet would not hold water, or in this case as it's winter here the pink antifreeze. So another project.
Now I could have opted to just replace the entire toilet however I decided that would be a waste of money and as I have plenty of free time, rebuild it.
It needed all the Guts of the toliet replaced.
1. The Seals now you have to identify the type of toilet you have as the seals are specific to these. Cheap, I paid around 20 bucks from eBay for those.
2. A water valve, I could tell it had been leaking by the small plastic tub the PO had set beneath it
3. A new vacuum breaker with spray hose attachment.
4. A new ball valve as the old one was pitted and covered with hard baked brown stuff. Note to self this job is best handled with rubber gloves.
Our motorhome had spent much of its life setting in Arizona in the hot sun and they did not keep water or antifreeze, (RV type) in the toilet, this allows the seals to dry out and stick to the ball valve rendering it useless.
Ok, ordered all the repair parts from eBay for around 50 bucks, now you may wonder why I order parts from ebay. I live out here where they have to pump daylight to me. There is no Camping world within a couple hundred miles and our local RV place is a little high to say the least, so hope that answers your question.
There is a large band clamp around the center of the toilet stand on our toilet, with the screw in the rear. Course that's where one of the leaks occurred and rusted the stainless steel large hose clamp, but a little WD 40 and I, got it off. Oh yes, I also replaced the toilet seat, broken plastic with a Slow Close wood version from Wal-Mart for about 25 bucks as I recall.
So with the clamp removed, I lifted the top of the toilet off the pedestal and set it aside. Now you are looking at the ball valve and the old seals. Take pictures of how they are configured so you can replace them. Note how the seals of which there are two are situated. Peel them off. Now you will remove the water valve, you have already disconnected the water supply hoses haven't you, well do it. Take pictures.
Remove any plastic trim parts and you should find two screws holding the foot valve on. They also hold the water valve on. Unscrew these and remove the water valve, and the return spring, its enclosed and only goes one way take pictures.
Now the ball valve should be loose, turn it upside down and you should see a screw that you remove and then you can extract the shaft the screw was holding. To remove the ball valve, you will squeeze it together gently and it will come out, installation is the opposite. Don't drop the screw down the hole, if you do a magnet sure comes in handy, of course unless its Stainless, then its hand only
, oh and before you start its a good idea to have a just emptied black tank and possibly hosed out good. After I got the top of the toilet off and the ball valve removed, I had the unit hooked to my sewer at home and took my hose and washed the black tank clean, even used a little dawn in it.
My ball valve came with a new Brass shaft to replace the plastic one and works perfectly.
I smeared some vasoline on the seals and the ball valve before installing, just to help the seals stay moist, now a lot but some. It now holds water and can't wait to use it
Hurry up SPRING.
Safe Travels
Now the vacuum breaker is located on the top part of the toilet, and simply unplugs from the rubber gasket it resides in. Mine probably didn't need replacing but what the heck just to make sure.
Reassembly is just reversing what you did to take it apart, its really an easy disgusting job, but someone's gotta do it.
And it saves you a ton of money.
also one of the pictures looks like the toilet is mounted on the ceiling, nope my goofy picture taking.
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