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Old 02-18-2021, 10:32 AM   #1
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Norcold Removal Diagram

I am in the process of replacing my Norcold 1201LRIM with a residential refrigerator.
I am trying to find a diagram on how it is mounted in the slide put. I used to be able find the diagrams online but they are broken links. Anyone have any idea on what is holding the refrigerator in place and or if they have a diagram?

Thanx!
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Old 02-18-2021, 01:12 PM   #2
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Go to your parts fische here...

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...06/6ipg38t.pdf

and look in the "cabinets and appliance group" section. Looks like there is a bracket on top and one on each side bottom.
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Old 02-18-2021, 02:24 PM   #3
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possible the route has changed?

Good place to start for massive amounts of good info:
https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...s-and-diagrams

Be sure not to skip over the parts catalog as it has a ton of info besides just parts numbers and sales, etc. Really good for locating how they laid things in on the build. Not quite as good for the pre 2010 but super for folks with newer.
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Old 02-18-2021, 02:48 PM   #4
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not sure if this will help but based on the install manual at http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ual-628936.pdf it looks like the mounting points are along the top and bottom faces (assuming I have the correct model pdf in that link
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Old 02-18-2021, 03:06 PM   #5
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Residential Refrigerator Installation Tips

5 years ago I removed my 4-Door NeverCold frig and installed a 2-door GE Refrigerator Model #GTS16GSHCRSS and it's been working great ever since. FYI, I did NOT replace my 2000W Dimensions Quasi-sine Inverter-Charger, albeit a PSW inverter does provide "cleaner" power.

If I remember correctly, my old Norcold was mounted to the floor using a a few metal hold down parts, and just above the outside vent opening I think the Norcold was attached there as well.

Also your Norcold will vent to the roof, but you no longer will need that.

And you will find 120V power that has it's own circuit breaker already there. This was for the Norcold ice maker. ...And I decided I wanted a refrigerator on-off-switch inside the RV and I think this is a good idea you will like having. To accomplish this I removed the left side power outlet... cut a larger hole for 2 outlets... and installed the refrigerator switch and the power outlet next to one another. Now I can turn the refrigerator off from inside the coach without going bothering with the circuit breaker and I used a LED inside the switch to signal I was getting power. This has turned out to be a nice visual indicator you are plugged into shore power or use inverter power.

I then use some large diameter "Swimming Noodles" kids use in a pool, and I placed them against the side walls to block any wind flow that may or may not occur.

Then you can tape over those vent covers from the inside to block air flow into the coach. ...And I seem to remember covering the vent hole on the roof to prevent air from entering that way.

As for anchoring your new frig to the floor:

* Turn your frig on it's side and drill a few large hole in the bottom of it's metal frame on the bottom.

* Position the frig in the slide hole just the way you want. And at this point you may find your frame will not let the hinge on top of the refrigerator to slide all the way in. So you will need to mark that area... remove the frig... and cut a notch out of the 3/4" maple frame. (This wood is very hard, and you should predrill any screws you may use when it comes to attaching trim molding later.)

* Use a marking pen to mark the position in the floor and remove the frig from the slide hole.

* Drill the hole and then put the frig back in the hole and bolt her down to the floor in 4 spots...noodles and all.

* You can also attach some L-brackets to the area just above the outside vent opening where you will find added support.

* Then I used popular base boards for trim molding and "button-wood-plugs" to cover the screw holes. Then I used a "natural stain" and Deft-Satin which will yellow over time, and this is what I wanted. And now the trim look like it came from the factory. (I don't now if matching a dark stain is easier or not, but you should experiment before you commit to one stain over another.)

Notes: You may need to rebuild the refrigerator floor board. The new GE frig is lighter than the older Norcold. And to help me lift the frig into the hole I used a couple large cases of water bottles that allow me to lift the frig in place. In fact, one person sometimes better than 2 on this job since you are working in a small space. ...Except when it comes to getting the old Norcold out the front door and the new frig in, as you will need 4 people for this (3 for sure). And you need to remove the passenger chair. (I did not remove the driver's chair, but you can to get more room. Just 4 bolts you can easily remove by undoing the nuts behind the tires.)

* You also need to make a door lock to keep your refrigerator doors closed while you drive. So I attached a picture of the one I made that works very well.

Good luck with your project!
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