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Old 07-23-2018, 03:47 PM   #1
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No water flow through any hot water faucet

My wife and I were camping this past weekend. The hot and cold water worked fine the first three days. Sunday the cold water faucets worked but no water flow through any of the hot water sides of the faucets. I cleaned the water tank today. I got a lot of calcium coming out. Looked like white sand. I have a ten gallon Atwood gas/electric heater. I ran 6 gallons of white vinegar into the tank and topped it off with water. I turned on both gas and electric to heat the water. I left that in the tank for 4 hours. I flushed the tank several times and used the pressure wand again to make sure that I got the tank nice and clean. I still do not get hot water flow out of the faucets. Since I cleaned the hot water tank, I get no water at all out of the shower faucet ( hot or cold ).I don't understand how it all works Sunday morning and doesn't Sunday night. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-23-2018, 04:43 PM   #2
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There is a metal body check valve threaded into the hot water heater hot water outlet port. Sounds like the check valve plunger is stuck shut.

It has male threads going into a female port on the hot water heater, and the end that connects to the pex tubing is also a threaded coupling so if you can get to it, it is easy to remove.

It's purpose is to allow you to drain the hot water heater when you winterize, so if you never need to winterize you could just remove it.

The one that was in my Vista had a spring loaded plastic plunger so you may be able to take it out and de-scale it in a small container and reuse it. Chances are the vinegar solution just did not make it high enough to bust loose the check valve on the hot water outlet.
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Old 07-23-2018, 09:08 PM   #3
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Thank you.

Thanks Randy. Now I have to figure out how to get to the back of the water heater. Mine is behind the front passenger wheel under the floor and next to the steps. I have a 2005 Itasca Suncruiser 33V. I'll check the internet to see if there is a link to show to to get to it. Thanks again.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:22 AM   #4
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Powercat, is right. It is the check valve and it is best to get a new one to be sure it is ok.
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:47 AM   #5
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On my Vista, I removed the check valve and replaced it with a 1/2" ball valve in the pex line exiting the hot water outlet port. No more stuck check valve issues, and can still isolate the hot water heater. I still have the option of isolating and draining hot water heater and winterizing water lines with the red stuff. Be sure to put it before the first tee.

If you do this make a note in the winterizing section of your operators manual that you now have to operate two valves to winterize instead of the Winnebago OEM method using 1 valve.
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Old 08-02-2018, 06:14 AM   #6
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Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....
Just a thought, but have you remover the faucet strainers to see if they are free from all of that mineral scale from your tank.
I always clean mine every month or so to ensure that there is no blockage.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old 08-02-2018, 07:57 AM   #7
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I carry two spare check valves. When they go, sometimes they start singing first with hot water flow, and sometimes they just stop allowing flow without warning.
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Old 08-02-2018, 08:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
On my Vista, I removed the check valve and replaced it with a 1/2" ball valve in the pex line exiting the hot water outlet port. No more stuck check valve issues, and can still isolate the hot water heater. I still have the option of isolating and draining hot water heater and winterizing water lines with the red stuff. Be sure to put it before the first tee.

If you do this make a note in the winterizing section of your operators manual that you now have to operate two valves to winterize instead of the Winnebago OEM method using 1 valve.

Randy, this may not be a good safety practice. I may be wrong here. As I understand it, the "check" valve is an anti-back-flow device which prevents hot water from backing up into the cold water faucets. (https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_7te03lmsx9_e)
Yes, they ARE poorly made and are often noisy when running the hot water. I have replaced a few of them over the years on the road. I haven't found a good brand yet. I think the plastic components are damaged when sanitizing the system with bleach.
Happy trails,
Rick
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:28 AM   #9
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The output check valve is typically to support the winterizing process (enabling the use of one bypass valve) as it prevents the antifreeze from backfeeding into the tank.

The input check valve is not that common, this Winnebago is the first time I have come across it. It may keep hot water from being drawn up into the cold water while it is running, but odd my prior rigs did not have that issue.
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Old 08-04-2018, 05:51 PM   #10
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Thanks to all!

Hello, I would like to thank everyone that replied to my post about the hot water issue in my Suncruiser. I bought two check valves to have an extra in case this happens again. I could actually get to the valve from the access panel to the heater compartment. I had to take the metal panel out that the water lines were secured to so that I could get better access to the back of the heater. I ended up having to take out the water pump because the valve was stuck in the heater. I had to take one of my roller jacks and a piece of 2x4 to push up on my ratchet to break the valve loose. I also ended up buying new 1" pex pipe and new pex fittings because the old fitting that attached to the heater was leaking where the pipe attached to the elbow. I got the parts at Menards. Our local Camping World says that they don't carry parts for the water system lines. Long story short, I bought a tube cutter, extra pex connectors and I have about three and a half feet of 1' pipe that I am storing in my coach just in case anything happens again. Once again thanks to all of you who responded. Bob
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:35 PM   #11
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Pex tools are good to have onboard - can't go wrong there - for repair or modifications. Glad you got it fixed!
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Brand View Post
Hello, I would like to thank everyone that replied to my post about the hot water issue in my Suncruiser. I bought two check valves to have an extra in case this happens again. I could actually get to the valve from the access panel to the heater compartment. I had to take the metal panel out that the water lines were secured to so that I could get better access to the back of the heater. I ended up having to take out the water pump because the valve was stuck in the heater. I had to take one of my roller jacks and a piece of 2x4 to push up on my ratchet to break the valve loose. I also ended up buying new 1" pex pipe and new pex fittings because the old fitting that attached to the heater was leaking where the pipe attached to the elbow. I got the parts at Menards. Our local Camping World says that they don't carry parts for the water system lines. Long story short, I bought a tube cutter, extra pex connectors and I have about three and a half feet of 1' pipe that I am storing in my coach just in case anything happens again. Once again thanks to all of you who responded. Bob
You did good, Bob! Was that Shark Bite brand or similar that you used? Fixing leaks is not uncommon with the compression fittings the manufacturer uses.



Did you mean 1" pipe? I have nothing larger than 3/4" in my rig. 1" would give more consistent water flow to the faucets if used as a manifold for distribution.


Happy trails.
Rick
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #13
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Pipe size

Hi Rick,
The water pipes in my Suncruiser are 3/4". I was thinking about the tube cutter that I bought. I wanted to make sure that it cut tubing bigger than 1". The water line that I purchased was 3/4" opaque sioux chief powerpex pipe. It is semi flexible. The fittings were Watts push in quick connect. Using those push in quick connects were a god send. I had to get my left arm including my head inside the compartment to replace that line and valve. All done one handed. Not an easy task. The water pressure has always been real good, even when multiple faucets are on.



Happy Trails to you too!
Bob
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Brand View Post
Hi Rick,
The water pipes in my Suncruiser are 3/4". I was thinking about the tube cutter that I bought. I wanted to make sure that it cut tubing bigger than 1". The water line that I purchased was 3/4" opaque sioux chief powerpex pipe. It is semi flexible. The fittings were Watts push in quick connect. Using those push in quick connects were a god send. I had to get my left arm including my head inside the compartment to replace that line and valve. All done one handed. Not an easy task. The water pressure has always been real good, even when multiple faucets are on.

Happy Trails to you too!
Bob
Arm and head!! Don't yea just love the way "service" access is provided for common failure problems?

I was surprised about the 1". I may have misread your intent. I have carried a PVC cutter since I went on the road in '05. Comes in handy. And the slip-on type pex fittings are great. This is onetime the industry got it right. These things will fit any pluming OD match.
We will be heading out for the winter at the end of the month. It will be good to be back on the road again. I have been doing repairs on the rig. Only urgent one was for the cabinet over the "J" lounge. When we first got the coach, used, DW filled the cabinet to the left with all of her cooking magazines. One day I noticed that the cabinet had separated from the ceiling on that end by about 2' going to the right. Long story short. I put a flat bar of aluminum on the roof of the slide and secured the cabinet into it. (There is nothing in the ceiling to carry the weight.) It started to separate again in the speaker area. I hadn't secured that. Yesterday was spent correcting this and relocating the valance attachments that had been ripped out of the wall when the cabinet came down.

Did the check valve last year. A bit tight but not as you described. And we continue to love what we do!
Wheel down. Roof up... Always.
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:20 PM   #15
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Thanks for this thread. Lost hot water pressure out of the blue last trip. Of course it was the check valve behind the heater, hard to get in and out without a leak. I winterize with air, so no guts left in valves and put block offs in diverter line. thanks for the location on second one. Chris
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