LP Tank Diagnosis Learning Curve
So as I experimented this is what I learned.
* To summarize you can read my notes in the picture below.
Additionally, my LP ON/Off Solenoid is now working; and it may have been all along. Why? What was the problem?
* I thought my LP Switch was not working, because I decided to test it by turning it off while my stove burner flame was burning.
I theorized that if the flame went out that my LP Switch was working properly when I shut it off.
And then to my dismay the flame stayed lit for 20-30 seconds.
Then I wrapped on the solenoid and it felt warm to the touch, which is a good sign as it turns out, because the heat signals the solenoid coils are being energized by 12V.
And when I ran the test again I waited 45 seconds, and this time the flame disappeared.
So now I have a warm solenoid and I know my LP shutoff switches work. So that is good to know.
* If your LP gas will not turn on, maybe you don't have 12V to the LP Solenoid and you have to address that.
* On the on the other hand, if your LP Solenoid is warm to the touch, then you know it has 12V.
* And based on what everyone says, an LP Solenoid normally does not get stuck in the open position.
* If you want to test your LP switch the way I did, you need to wait 1 minute to let the gas in the line burn out and kill the flame, before you assume you have a switch problem or a LP Solenoid problem like I did.
* And make sure you verify both your LP inside and outside switch is turned "on" if you are having trouble lighting you stove or your furnace will not work.
Note1: There is ~125PSI in the hose out of the tank to the regulator. After the regulator you have 12-12.5PSI that goes to the stove top and suburban(s) and refrigerator.
Note2: Before the regulator the tank pressure and hose pressure can reach 250PSI in 105F+ weather. So this is why the hose PSI is rated at 350PSI.