low water pressure

fullswedge · 10-21-2018, 10:33 AM

Hello All
I have a 32 ft journey 10 gal Atwood. For quite a while the hot water pressure has been getting lower and lower out of all faucets, city water or pump. The cold water is good everywhere. any idea where to even start to look? or maybe I don't want to open that can of worms.
Thanks much.

Mike Owens · 10-21-2018, 12:28 PM

Sometimes the minerals will build up on the inside of outlet fitting or debris collecting and solidifying by the cold water inlet in the bottom of the hot water heater. Flush the hot water heater using the drain fitting or valve.

vanmark · 10-21-2018, 03:03 PM

The check valve on the water heater is maybe going bad and sticking. Check to see if it has one. Most RV's do and they will stick partially stuck or fully closed. It will be on the back side of the tank on one of the ports. We had our stick fully stuck and had only cold showers until replaced. Best to replace the check valve. The check valve is installed as a way to prevent antifreeze from filling the tank when you winterize.

fullswedge · 10-21-2018, 03:55 PM

I flushed it out, there was a bit of minerals in it. but didn't seem to help.

fullswedge · 10-21-2018, 04:00 PM

I was looking at the back of the heater, all saw was just an elbow going to a water line.
Boy, all that hard plastic pipe.

fullswedge · 10-23-2018, 01:46 PM

Fixed!
Had to pull the water heater out 3 or 4 inches to get to the back but finally got the check valve off and took out what appears to be a plastic plunger of some sort, put it all back together and all seems good! I don't care about anti freeze in Florida
Thanks All

SarahW · 10-23-2018, 02:46 PM

Glad you got it figured out; thanks for posting the resolution.

David K · 10-28-2018, 05:09 PM

The plug that you pulled out is probably the guts of the check valve. It only comes into use when you winterize and don't want the water heater to fill with antifreeze. I removed the check valve from my heater and put manual valves in the lines going to and from the hot water heater with a cross over valve. When I get ready to winterize, I close the valves to the water heater and open the cross over valve and completely by pass the hot water heater and don't have to worry about the check valve going bad as it no longer is in my plumbing.

AndyMcG · 10-29-2018, 12:35 PM

David K I would love to see a picture of your bypass plumbing. I think our check valve has gone bad and I don't like paying to fill my tank with antifreeze. Our old truck camper had a set up like you describe and I think I will change to that next season.

charge-it · 10-29-2018, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyMcG

David K I would love to see a picture of your bypass plumbing. I think our check valve has gone bad and I don't like paying to fill my tank with antifreeze. Our old truck camper had a set up like you describe and I think I will change to that next season.

Here's an option for you.

David K · 10-29-2018, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyMcG

David K I would love to see a picture of your bypass plumbing. I think our check valve has gone bad and I don't like paying to fill my tank with antifreeze. Our old truck camper had a set up like you describe and I think I will change to that next season.

I will try to get a picture in the next couple of day and post it for you. I used valves that allowed me to use the PEC (spelling) tubing that is already in the motor home. I cut the in going and out going lines and installed the cutoff valves and then back from these valves, I installed the cross over valve. I will post some pictures when I get them taken and then it should make more sense.

Also, the post right before mine has a connection to the Camco by pass valves and connecting hose -- that is another option for doing the same thing that I did and may be cheaper depending upon the cost to convert the existing tubing to fittings to fit the Camco valves.

David K · 10-30-2018, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyMcG

David K I would love to see a picture of your bypass plumbing. I think our check valve has gone bad and I don't like paying to fill my tank with antifreeze. Our old truck camper had a set up like you describe and I think I will change to that next season.

I have taken a picture (in the picture, it has been rotated 90 degrees to the left
-- the bottom valve is the one near the plastic antifreeze tank) ---- in the picture, the lowest valve goes to the water connection at the bottom of the heater (in the picture, it is in the closed position), the round valve is the by-pass valve and it is in the open position, and the valve to the upper left of the picture goes to the upper connection of the heater (it is closed in this picture). When Winter is over, the two closed valves will be opened allowing flow to and from the heater while the cross over valve (the round one) will be closed to stop any cross over. Hope this helps.

Ray,IN · 11-07-2018, 08:53 AM

David K · 11-07-2018, 11:01 AM

Thanks Ray --- that diagram exactly shows what I was trying to explain and show with my picture --- the diagram shows it much better. And where you have put the words "normal use" and "bypassed" --- that is the location of the water heater being blocked off from getting any antifreeze in it.

AndyMcG · 11-09-2018, 09:18 AM

Thanks David
I think that kit may be the way to go. Like you said by the time I buy the lines fittings and valves I will have that much wrapped up in it. Don't understand why they felt the need for a fancy electric valve and switch when you need to get in compartment to drain the tank anyway.