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Old 10-17-2012, 09:50 PM   #21
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Thanks all for the great info. Love this forum.

Denny

Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeeman View Post
From Power Gear FAQ's

Hydraulic jacks can be cleaned and lubricated on the chrome rod that extends out from the barrel of the jack with silicone spray. If your jacks are equipped with zerk grease fittings at the bottom of the outer barrel then lubricate them with all purpose lithium grease. Do not use WD-40 as it can damage the seals in the jack assembly.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:28 PM   #22
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Wayne, I've seen where Dextron has been used as well.
Just try to find "Dextron" anywhere!! You might be able to get "Dexron" though
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:14 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Just try to find "Dextron" anywhere!! You might be able to get "Dexron" though
Picky, picky!
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Picky, picky!
This may be why I have an alarm issue...I'll go check the label in a minute
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #25
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I had mine go on shortly after my previous MH was new. It had a bad sensor. I may be wrong as I have not looked carefully but most fluid tanks are made of molded plastic and they have a fill mark molded into it. Since it is of the same material and color as the rest of the tank it may be hard to see and require some cleaning of the outside of the tank.
I know that I used a small funnel to add fluild to mine and it was easy to over fill. The cap is only a push/pull to open and close and does not seal as one would with a threaded cap. Overfilling caused it to eject the extra fluid dripping on the ground and making a mess of the RV framework nearby. However I did realize my objective by having a full tank!
The problem that I see with coating the shaft with dextron is that it will collect dirt. A silicon product may not.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:57 PM   #26
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Larry, I don't think the tanks are made out of plastic. On mine for example, there is 1500 psi of pressure pumped into the hoses. I don't know how much of the pressure is back in the tank side, but there is a fitting on the tank to check the pressure. I just don't think the plastic would hold up under that pressure. It may be a very high grade plastic though.

Coffeeman, what Mr _D was eluding to is that it is not "Dextron," it is Dexron. However, research will show that many call speak it as Dextron as it is easier to put the tongue to it.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
Larry, I don't think the tanks are made out of plastic. On mine for example, there is 1500 psi of pressure pumped into the hoses. I don't know how much of the pressure is back in the tank side, but there is a fitting on the tank to check the pressure. I just don't think the plastic would hold up under that pressure. It may be a very high grade plastic though.

Coffeeman, what Mr _D was eluding to is that it is not "Dextron," it is Dexron. However, research will show that many call speak it as Dextron as it is easier to put the tongue to it.

Sorry still researching the lable oops label, I mean sticker ....update to follow!!!
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:59 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Larry, I don't think the tanks are made out of plastic. On mine for example, there is 1500 psi of pressure pumped into the hoses. I don't know how much of the pressure is back in the tank side, but there is a fitting on the tank to check the pressure. I just don't think the plastic would hold up under that pressure. It may be a very high grade plastic though.

Coffeeman, what Mr _D was eluding to is that it is not "Dextron," it is Dexron. However, research will show that many call speak it as Dextron as it is easier to put the tongue to it.
I am not sure, however the cap for filling the tank is just a snap in and out so I doubt the tank is pressureized.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:02 PM   #29
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I asked a Winnie engineer at a GNR seminar as was told not to use anything on jack rams. It all attracts dust which will wear the seals. He said if you need to wipe them use a clean lint free rag. Nothing else.
The other thing is there used to be 2 different brands of jacks Kwikee and HWH. (Now there are more brands) They are very different in how they work. Kwikee uses pressure on both deploy and retract. HWH releases pressure on retract and the large springs bring the rams back up.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:29 AM   #30
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Indy,
That is contradictory to the manual and the technicians I talked to. They said to wipe them down with Silicone or Dexron. Just saying. The manual says silicone.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:02 PM   #31
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RV tech couldn't find issue as light wasn't on. I picked up MoHo and the jack light lite up!!! Yeah!!! checked all "reed switches" back right showed to be weak, jumped the switch and dash jack light, etc went out. We've identified the problem, told them to order the switch and replace. I'm not sure if cleaning would help so I've elected to replace it to be safe. I'm fortunate to have a tech close by that I've know before getting into RV'ing. I'll keep you posted after the install and the next trip which will be the end of Nov.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:08 AM   #32
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Part #1812991 @ $183 ea...ouch! They sure are proud of a little switch.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:30 AM   #33
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Update on part...it will take 3 to 4 weeks to manufacture!! as everything is made to order. I'm about to drive 900 miles so I hope none of the jacks actually drop. I guess I could attach bungee cords to make sure they hold in place to be safe.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:52 PM   #34
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I don't think you will have any problem with a jack dropping. The reed switch is just a sensor to tell the system that the jack is up and to turn off the alarm.

Mine has operated that way for over a year. It's a long story, but the Winnebago Factory Service Center in Forest City, IA, couldn't fix it in a weeks time. The dealer here could not find the problem of the alarm staying on in every other day visits to my storage area with the jacks extended. They would retract them, and work on the system, then extend them and come back in two days. It is still chiming. As I said, I finally put a toggle switch on the positive lead going to the control panel. Now, jacks up, alarm sounding, throw the toggle switch until we get to the next stop.

Keep us posted on the fix please.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:38 PM   #35
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Wayne..I don't think so either, but just in case. I'm going to take the old part to an electric motor shop and see if the can repair it. I used to have Slush Puppy motors repaired at 1/5th the cost of new. If it works I'll have a back up if not in the trash. I'm still trying to grasp that everything is made to order at Powergear to include jacks. I'm glad they don't make toilet tissue......at least my wife is.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:19 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckiest Dre View Post
I am not sure, however the cap for filling the tank is just a snap in and out so I doubt the tank is pressureized.
Larry, I missed this quoted post. I'm very interested in this thread because of my problem. I have Kwikee hydraulic jacks. The reservoir is a screw in cap, very long threads. My system is a hydraulic extend, hydraulic return and requires 1500 PSI to operate. You are more than likely correct in that a snap on cap may not be pressurized.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeeman View Post
Wayne..I don't think so either, but just in case. I'm going to take the old part to an electric motor shop and see if the can repair it. I used to have Slush Puppy motors repaired at 1/5th the cost of new. If it works I'll have a back up if not in the trash. I'm still trying to grasp that everything is made to order at Powergear to include jacks. I'm glad they don't make toilet tissue......at least my wife is.
Ok Coffeeman, I'm confused. You have a hydraulic system and you are taking an electric motor to be fixed. Or is it just the reed switch you are taking. Isn't the reed switch magnetic in that when the two separate reeds come together the magnetic fields activates the small switch inside? Help?
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:30 AM   #37
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Wayne..I will take the reed switch or whatever Kwikee calls it to see if it can be rebuilt. This switch is located in the top of the jack if that helps.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:11 AM   #38
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Yep! Not the easiest place to get to, eh?

You have the "Level Best" system, right? If so, when the jacks are all retracted, pin 6 on the control board should show a "grounded" condition. Unfortunately the reed switches are all in series, so any one of them not working will show an open instead of grounded.

Keep posting, I'm going to let you figure my system out, hee hee!
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:05 PM   #39
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Wayne I didn't do the checking however I know they couldn't diagnosis the problem if the dash warning light wasn't on. When I p/u the MoHo it was so they crawled under the unit and checked each switch for a reading and id'd the back right jack switch as defective. We'll see what happens when the new part shows up. Anyway I'll keep everyone posted as to the outcome.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:32 AM   #40
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Looking forward to the "final" it's fixed post.

Thanks.
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