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Old 03-29-2013, 07:00 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall
I use the watts 263A.

I have it installed in the bay and have a drinking water safe hose rated for 200 PSI. I got them both here

http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/
Nice site! Stainless or brass fittings?
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:16 PM   #22
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Like other's have said, use some type of regulator, you won't be sorry. I also use a good filter as well.
One previous post said he was uping the regulator pressure from 45 to 55 psi, to increase water flow. I always use my water pump even when hooked to water supply, plent of water flow, JMHO. Good luck and travel safe, enjoy the summer.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by CampDaven View Post
Please be aware that the little "regulator" you use is actually a water restrictor that cuts down volume but not pressure. I wont go deep on the science here, but it is just a pipe with a tiny hole, and pressure is never reduced by it. A true regulator is highly recommended.
Yes, I know that and have been corrected before but the manufacturers (Camco and Valterra) call them "regulators." And the high-flow ones, the ones that are the 50-55 psi variety offer 15% to 20 % more flow than the cheap ones you can buy at Walmart for $8. Actually, I don't really see that much of a reduced flow when using that stainless steel one that I bought through Amazon for $20. For me, I'm okay with that particular "restrictor" as it is still protecting my pipes which some tell me really don't need to be protected, and still gives us plenty of volume.

The reviews on Amazon seem to agree with my thoughts: click

-harry
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:36 PM   #24
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I have been in a few RV Parks that had warnings on the electrical boxes stating "use a water regulator pressure exceeds XXX pounds". I have mine installed in the bay and use the high pressure hoses from RV Water Filter Store: Standard Filter Canisters for Whole RV
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:48 PM   #25
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We neglected to put the regulator on at a State Park in Alabama. Great park. Really high pressure though. The water heater was weeping. That alerted me of the high pressure. I put the regulator on but it was too late. Our 5.4 ShurFlo (that I loved) had it's internal sensor shot. It would run just fine but would not shut off unless you flipped the switch. After turning it off you could turn it back on and it would stay off until water demand started it again then had to flip it off when done again. Tried to get another pump but had to settle on the 4.0 which has enough flow but is a lot louder than the really quiet 5.4.............. lesson learned. I had called Shurflo and told them what happened and they said high pressure held against the mechanism can damage it so.....
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Old 03-30-2013, 01:02 AM   #26
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I use the watts 263A and mount it at the CG supply. That way it protects my hose also. Nothing worse than seeing your hose look like a snake that swallowed a rabbit.
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flaggship1 View Post

Nice site! Stainless or brass fittings?
I got the brass one.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:21 AM   #28
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I always use a regulator. I install it at the CG supply at one end of a "Y". I attach a short hose to the other. This gives me regulated pressure to the coach and full pressure from the short hose, which I use for different outside tasks. The small cost is well worth the peace of mind, and we always shut the water off when we leave. But back to the original post, as it seems as everyone uses them, most manufacturers recomment them, and most parks suggest you use one, why DON'T the manufacturers include this as standard equipment ????
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:35 AM   #29
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Chillbilly - I asked Freightliner the "why don't manufacturers provide x" question not to long ago when seeking advice about battery disconnect switches. The salesmen switches weren't cutting it at storage without electric hookup. He said "they sell you what they can make money on, not what you need.". Now in our case, I know some units come with switches, ours did not. Suffice to say, if it's not one thing, it's another. I do think they put these things together using the "best case scenario" be it perfect power from the post, water pressure, or driving conditions (weak headlamps, wimpy wipers, no bug screens on heater exhaust, no vent covers, modified sine," the list goes on.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:13 AM   #30
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But back to the original post, as it seems as everyone uses them, most manufacturers recomment them, and most parks suggest you use one, why DON'T the manufacturers include this as standard equipment ????
Used to have a large company that manufactured equipment (not related to transportation). Customers used to ask (sometimes demand) that certain things be added to the equipment as standard, so that they did not have to add the feature themselves. For us, it was not that simple.
  • Would the add on satisfy the needs of most of our customers so making it standard equipment made sense?
  • Would customers be willing to pay the cost of adding this item?
  • If the item came in different varieties which would satisfy best?
  • Was the add on reliable?
  • If an add on failed, how much warranty/repair liability would the company assume? How much legal liability would we be exposed to?
  • What would the company's cost be to research options and add this to the manufacturing process?
  • If a decision was made to go ahead with the add on, were there reliable suppliers from which to purchase it?

Those are just some of the questions I can remember. Basically, if an additional add on to our equipment did not give us a competitive edge on the competition or, at least put us on par, we were not eager to begin offering as standard equipment. I suspect the thought process might be the same for other companies, including rv manufacturers.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:26 AM   #31
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Jzick - your explanation is a good one but like you said - not transportation related. I was with you up to the RV manufacturer thought process. Like the logic that says let's but a noisy inverter under the bed (not on ours but on some), the offset thrown that grows paper pyramids like magic sea horses (again not mine). You would make a fortune as a consultant to the RV manufactures providing logic to decision makers. It's been said here many times before - it's like some manufactures have never been in an RV. IMHO only.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:11 AM   #32
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This is a topic where you may receive varying degrees of opinions. Although I do use a regulator as I travel and on our park model just a a precaution, I have heard from others that they are no longer absolutely necessary with newer RVs. I don't quite buy it so I do use a rather inexpensive hose regulator (this one).

Here's a story. Preface: we were staying at an RV park last year when we noticed that a local chapter of a Winnebago owners club was holding a rally. We were actually not participating and didn't know a Winnebago rally was even taking place and we were scheduled to leave the next day anyway. As I was doing some chores around the rig, a new Journey backed into the spot next to us. As the male was about to set up camp, he was cursing up a storm and told me that because he was an officer of the club and was not pleased that somebody else had taken the site he had signed up for and the park had put him in the site next to us as an alternative. But this spot was much smaller and not as nice so he was upset.

I introduced myself and complimented his rig as it looked brand new. It was a year old. He wasn't friendly at all but I kept trying to make small talk. As he was hooking his fresh water hose to the site's hydrant, I commented that the park management had advised us to use a water regulator because their water pressure was quite high. I told him that I had an extra if he wanted to use it. He was dismissive and irritatingly told me, "these new rigs do not need regulators, the plumbing is equal or better than what they use on new houses. This is what Winnebago told us when we took a factory tour before we ordered our rig. We don't use 'em." I just laughed and said "well, you're an officer of a Winnebago owner's club so I suppose you should know better than I what is necessary and what's not."

So as I walked around the park to my amazement, very few of the newer Winnebagos attending the rally were using water regulators. It kind of surprised me as I assumed that a Winnebago owners' club would recommend to their members to use a regulator.

-harry
Your "friend" may be in for a rude awakening. Here's a quote from the 2013 Adventurer owners manual"

Because city water pressure varies from
location to location, we recommend obtaining an
in-line water pressure regulator to prevent
damage to any components, connections, and
seals in your fresh water system.
These devices simply connect in-line between
the supply hose and the city water input on the
coach. We recommend regulators that control
water pressure to
50 psi. max.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:09 AM   #33
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I carry a pressure guage and check pressure even after I hook my regulator. I have seen some parks with over 100# at the spicket. I would never hook up without a good regulator.
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:59 PM   #34
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I must share.. Wnet camping with friends. He thought the regulators were a waste of money. We went into the Casino, Had brakefast. Gambled Etc. Things were good . Came back to our coaches the water was Running out his front door. The Lines behind the toilet had pulled apart; It run for only about 2 hours..... Now anyone tell me why I DON"T need a regulator;; $15.00 would have saved a lot of money, And cleanup work... I'LL tell you some thing alse. It don't allways happen to the other guy.. Life is good.. It is better with the piece of mind with a water regulator installed..
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:50 PM   #35
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Many thanks to all who replied, I have learned a great deal from your posts. I went out today and purchased the Valterra adjustable from Camping World. Will try it out later this week.

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Old 03-31-2013, 04:06 PM   #36
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Cardinal Pilot,

You'll like it, I've had mine for about five years now- still great. I set it at 42lbs. Winnebago suggests nothing over 55. I also have an Oxygenics shower head that makes the most of lower water pressures- so you still have nice showers.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #37
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Cardinal Pilot,

You'll like it, I've had mine for about five years now- still great. I set it at 42lbs. Winnebago suggests nothing over 55. I also have an Oxygenics shower head that makes the most of lower water pressures- so you still have nice showers.
We spent the winter at a National Wildlife Refuge where the water pressure was sometimes as low as 25 psi. Still got great showers with the Oxygenics.
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:07 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by flaggship1 View Post
Why spend $8 - $12 when you can drill a hole in a penny and stick it in the hose in place of a the rubber washer and achieve the same thing. Or just us a metal washer. Regulating and restricting aren't equivalent. If I stick my thumb in the end of the hose I have restricted the flow. You could say that's regulated - but the variable is how much water pressure you have before the device. Your thumb or "restrictor" can only do so much with that. A regulator will take whatever it gets and deliver the set pressure and a perfectly adjusted shower every time. YMMV
I certainly hope you were kidding in the first two sentences, an appropriately placed might have been appropriate.

Flow (or volume) regulator: a hole in a penny, or one of those things shower heads must now have (remember the Seinfield shower head episode?). They do nothing to reduce pressure when you are not using water. Under no flow the pressure is the same on either side of the restrictor hole.

Pressure regulator: Usually has an adjustable spring against which the water pushes. This will regulate pressure on the downstream side of the device to the set pressure under no flow and up to the rated flow. Small pipes and fittings in your RV will further reduce the pressure at the end of the line due to pipe friction when water is flowing in the pipes. End of line flow restrictors like the one in your shower head will further reduce the perceived pressure when taking a shower.

The more you pay for a pressure regulator, generally the more flow (volume) of water it can handle. Cheap in-line regulators which can only handle 2.5 gallons per minute, may reduce pressure, but they also act as a serious restriction when you want a good flow of water.
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