Hot Water Heater - Page 2

Cruzer · 10-11-2007, 03:33 AM

Yeah, that is the new Bus. It's just that I took the shot in the same place as I did with the last one so it can be confusing until you start counting axles.

I just took some new ones. Maybe it's time to rotate.

Ron and Patti · 10-16-2007, 03:00 PM

Just a update I received the new hot water heater today and will start to install it tomorrow (DONAVONP) you had ask me to check to see if the reset button is in a easier place. There is no reset button they now have a Relay (NO SWITCH) I am going to have to call Atwood in the morning to found out what I need to do in if it ever needs to be reset. I will let you know what they say and I will keep you post on the installation of the heat that I am going to put in tomorrow (weather permitting) Ron

DonavonP · 10-16-2007, 06:28 PM

Thanks Ron. I'll have to eyeball one of those heaters next time I'm at Camping World.

DancinCampers · 10-17-2007, 12:10 PM

Ron,

Check & see if there is a 16 in the model number. If so, I believe you have one of the newer engineered models. The relay allows the 12V ECO (which resets itself) to protect both AC & propane sides.

Also, the newer tank has a mixing valve on the back, which mixes the hot water with cold, to extend the 10 gallon capacity of the tank to 16 (hence the model number).

I would be interested on how the tank performs. If the mixing valve works as advertised, or just something else to go wrong.

Good luck on the install.

Ron and Patti · 10-17-2007, 01:54 PM

This is starting to turn into a nightmare. I have a wiring haress with three wires on it coming out of the Motorhome and the new water heater has a wiring harness with four wires on it. I called Atwood to find out how to rewire the heater they were helpful but I dont understand the way they expect me to hook it up. I have to some how find a third hot wire to hook up the relay,and this is not a easy thing to do when you are working with three wires 2 hot 1 ground and have to make a extra one. Everything lined up like it should water lines, heater hoses, electic lines for the electric side of the heater. Its the 12 volt side that dont make any sence to me. The new switch they send you dont even fit in the control panel so I am going
to have to some how relocate the new switch they sent and I have no room to put it in the motor home. Called winn they were helpful they sent the wiring for my 01 and the wiring for a 07 to compare the difference between them. The 07 has 4 wires.I guess when it comes down to it you need to pay the price and get it fixed from the pro's love doing all my own repairs and service but the manufactors always have a loop hole to keep you coming back to them for some kind of service with a price tag of 95.00 to 110.00 a hour. Atwood should have never changed the wiring harness, but when the discontined the GCH140A-3E and went to the GCHA10-4E they had to make things diffcult for people like us to fix. Ron

DonavonP · 10-17-2007, 03:00 PM

Ron, is your new heater listed on here. Bryant RV/Attwood

Maybe someone could read that schematic and help out. My electrical work looks more like a Boris Karloff movie than good electrical work.

Ron and Patti · 10-17-2007, 03:12 PM

Donovan The schematic you sent me is the same schematic that I got from Bryan Funke from Winnebago.We were on the phone with each other for about a hour trying to figure out what to do.there dont same to be a easy way to do this.I will keep you posted on my nightmare.Ron

DancinCampers · 10-17-2007, 04:18 PM

Ron, I see a couple ways to do this. But to keep your current cable configuration & allow the EMS to control the AC side of the HWH I would do the following:

1. Hook your 12V wire coming in from your inside switch to the WHT2 wire (electric) wire from control board.

2. Add a SPST switch in the HWH compartment, input side jumpered off the WHT2 wire (electric), output side to OR1 (gas) wire from control board.

(I'm not positive about those wire designations from the control board, may be different from schematic I have)

That's should do it. Operate as follows:

Inside 12V switch on, inside 110V switch on, HWH added switch on = both gas & electric on.
(turning 110V switch off =gas only) (turning 12V switch off = gas & electric off)

Inside 12V switch on, inside 110V switch on, HWH added switch off = electric only.

Inside 12V switch on, inside 110V switch off, HWH added switch on = gas only.

Does this make sense?

Otherwise you could run another 12V wire with switch from your inside panel to HWH.

Hope this helps.

Ron and Patti · 10-20-2007, 06:47 PM

Update on hot water heater! Finally after a few days of not knowing what to do with the new wireing I call a freind of mine who rewires 12 volts systems in cars. With in a hour he had the heater up and running. He was able to hook it up in such a way with the wiring that I have a extra reset switch on the outside of the motorhome if I need it even tho the new heater has a relay. I didnt need to put in a new switch he was able to use the switch in the motorhome. Everthing seem to be working good turning on and off like it should. The only thing I dont like with the new heaters is that it takes 1 hour from the first time you start it up to shut off our other heater run for a half hour before it cut off. I called atwood and they told me the new heaters are set up that way. Again I would like to Thank every one for there help on this installation. Ron