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Old 01-30-2021, 10:50 PM   #1
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Dehumidifier drain line

Hi everyone, just got a 2021 2301bhs. We live in south FL. Found a covered storage spot with unlimited 20amp electricity. I was thinking of running a dehumidifier set to medium humidity 24/7. I'll have a camera inside to monitor. Question I have is where to snake a drain line. Was considering going through floor under bunks but don't want to mess with sealed belly. I was considering taking a chance with a long bit... Then I thought about going out the outdoor kitchen...but I'd have to leave that door open or come through that door somehow. I then thought about out the vents behind fridge. I would prefer out the back so I can point drain towards the grass and not the concrete pad. Thanks
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Old 01-31-2021, 04:50 AM   #2
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This is really a 100% guess. I believe there are sewer caps that have an garden hose end adapter on them. If not get a cap and make one with a garden hose adapter. Take the drain hose from the dehumidifier put it in the shower drain. Open the grey tank valve, hook up a garden hose to your newly devised sewer cap hose adapter and let it rip.

Best of luck
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:20 AM   #3
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Like dis maybe?
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/camc...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:51 PM   #4
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Drain it into your shower/tub
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Old 01-31-2021, 11:23 PM   #5
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I would not tap into your grey water tank, because grey can smell or "flower/bloom" like the black water does, and if you do not have a p-trap you will regret this approach.

Also, a dehumidifier can drain a lot of water. Especially in Florida. So drilling a hole in your shower wall is worse IMO vs finding an alternative path

How about this idea:

* Buy an AC with an dehumidifier option so you can also boost your AC too.
Note: An AC will will also function as a dehumidifier and maybe better then just buying a dehumidifier alone, because when you travel to hot-dry or desert area that dehumidifier will not offer you any comfort if the air is dry.

This will require 3 modifications:

1) EXHAUST THE HOT AIR

==> Drilling a hole in the side wall is one option and then install a dryer cover to hide the hole. This cover would be similar to what RVs use with 3" washer/dryer exhaust, but larger since you need to vent a 5" hot air exhaust port out of your AC.

Note: I have a large slideout in my RV... so if I were to go this route, I would prefer to drill this 5" hole through the slide out floor. ...And when I am ready to retract the slide, I just remove the 5" AC accordion hose and cover the hole in the floor with a plug.

Note: If you get a 5-1/4" ceiling light "Trim Ring" at Home Depot, you will find it fits nicely over the 5" air conditioner air exhaust tube and this let make a nice tight seal against the wall or cabinet or floor.

2) POWER

==> I would wire a 20A-120V wall plug into my kitchen cabinet side wall where I can then plug the AC in easily or disconnect it easily.

==> I would then connect a 12 gauge 25' extension cord to the wall socket and fish it behind the kitchen cabinets... to the water service bay... for use when I need AC and for storage when I do not. Then you just plug this dedicated AC extension cord into the 120V power socket at the RV park shore power pole.

3) DRAIN HOSE.

==> I would fish a garden hose or tubing through the kitchen cabinet side cabinet... then behind the kitchen drawers... and extend the drain tube under the sink... and then to the water service bay.

Note: My guess is that under your sink you will find a space that vents to your water service bay. This area is also the weak spot on how to keep extreme outside cold and heat out of your cabin.

==> Then I would connect the drain line to an adapter that will look a lot like the picture below. It all depends on how much extra room you have in your water service bay.

This way the gray and black water lines will remain closed, but the AC/Dehumidifier drain line will always be draining though the sewer line.

Note: If this approach results in some bad smells entering the coach, then I would install a ball valve in the drain line -- and manually drain the AC/Dehumidifier overflow tank when it gets full.
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Old 02-02-2021, 06:03 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone.
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Old 02-07-2021, 05:59 PM   #7
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This is what we did on our sailboat near Jacksonville. You can also put it in the sink and just drain it into the sink. It makes a big difference. Two 50 pint units would be better.
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Old 02-07-2021, 06:13 PM   #8
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Do you all think I would be better off leaving one of the a/c's on, set to a high temp, instead?
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Old 02-07-2021, 06:57 PM   #9
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Can you do the A/C on 20A plus a dehumidifier? In FL it will run constantly all summer but, sure, it is always better to keep it cooler inside. What would you set it at - 85° ?
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:06 PM   #10
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I would not do dehumidifier if I went with leaving ac on. It's in covered storage, so I don't know how much it would run if set to say 81. The electricity is included in storage cost. I just don't know if these acs are meant to run this much.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:40 PM   #11
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Should be good to go. IMHO the aircon would keep the humidity down to acceptable levels. A dehumidifier would actually add heat to the interior. On the boat, we had a fan to keep the air in the corners of the boat. If we were in the water, we would do what you are going to do - leave the aircon;s on. In the house we set the aircon to 85° and no mildew (mostly).
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:52 PM   #12
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Thanks Charles. Now I just have to figure out why the ac is tripping 15 amp house breaker.
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Old 02-07-2021, 07:56 PM   #13
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Your house breaker is tripping probably do to one or more of these issues:

* The house circuit you are connecting to is 15A and not 20A

* you are running a long extension cord

* you maybe running a 14 or 16 gauge extension cord when 12 gauge is better!

Other: I see no reason to run a dehumidifier if you can spend a little more on a portable AC and have a place to run it when you are camped, and can store it when you drive.
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Old 02-07-2021, 08:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Your house breaker is tripping probably do to one or more of these issues:

* The house circuit you are connecting to is 15A and not 20A

* you are running a long extension cord

* you maybe running a 14 or 16 gauge extension cord when 12 gauge is better!

Other: I see no reason to run a dehumidifier if you can spend a little more on a portable AC and have a place to run it and store it when you drive.
It is a 15 amp breaker.... Shouldn't that be OK? Short 10g extension cord. Same setup runs rear ac just fine. Front ac trips breaker.

You would get a portable ac instead of running the roof ac?
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Old 02-09-2021, 12:16 AM   #15
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I would think a "strong" 15A house breaker would work.

Maybe your Rooftop AC run capacitor needs to be replaced. Check it with a Multimeter that can read uF. Just be sure to sort the capacitor out before you touch it. ...Better still you might want to watch a video on this subject.

I have heard of some owners that add a start capacitor in parallel to the Run Capacitor. This is a very simple addition to your existing rooftop AC, but it's a little hard to understand.

You actually want a small start capacitor with a WSX7 Motor starter on top of the start capacitor, which basically takes the start capacitor "out of the circuit" in microseconds after your AC starts. (See circuit diagram for a different type of RV AC system, but the principles are the same as your application.)

==> Just uses a smaller Dometic brand start capacitor if you roof top AC does not come with one (see picture below) or you can slightly increase your start capacitor up a notch if your basement AC does come with a start capacitor, but your compressor needs more help or "boost" to start.

This is a ~$35 part cost.

Question: Do you have any trouble starting the AC on generator power?
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Old 02-09-2021, 05:42 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
I would think a "strong" 15A house breaker would work.

Maybe your Rooftop AC run capacitor needs to be replaced. Check it with a Multimeter that can read uF. Just be sure to sort the capacitor out before you touch it. ...Better still you might want to watch a video on this subject.

I have heard of some owners that add a start capacitor in parallel to the Run Capacitor. This is a very simple addition to your existing rooftop AC, but it's a little hard to understand.

You actually want a small start capacitor with a WSX7 Motor starter on top of the start capacitor, which basically takes the start capacitor "out of the circuit" in microseconds after your AC starts. (See circuit diagram for a different type of RV AC system, but the principles are the same as your application.)

==> Just uses a smaller Dometic brand start capacitor if you roof top AC does not come with one (see picture below) or you can slightly increase your start capacitor up a notch if your basement AC does come with a start capacitor, but your compressor needs more help or "boost" to start.

This is a ~$35 part cost.

Question: Do you have any trouble starting the AC on generator power?
Thanks for this. Hopefully I don't need to go this route. Spoke with Winnebago yesterday, they asked for my Vin then confirmed I should have the energy management system and should have no trouble running both ACs on 30 amp. They designed it to do just that. She was going to send the wiring diagram, but I've not seen anything in the trailer that looks like an ems, so I'm thinking it's not actually installed. I have not tried generator power yet, but do have two Honda 2200s I plan on using when needed.
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