Black Tank Surprised Fiasco

[Morich]

I'm not sure we are getting a clear picture. So I admit to being confused and asking?
What I "thought" you had was one pump for water pressure from the holding tanks to faucets and I would expect there to be a switch on a panel inside to control this pump. Some larger RV also have switches in the bath or near an outside shower.
But then I see on the drawing, there is a pump near an outside sink and this pump only acts to boost the waste water from that outside sink to the nearest holding tank which is the black tank.
So that leaves me confused??? Am I not looking at the right drawing with this being the one for the 2019 Sunstart IFE29VE (Serial Number begins with 70E40Y2) the other having seven digit of 1, OR am I confused about how this should work?
I would not expect the fresh water pressure pump switch to also turn on a pump to move drain water from a sink that you might not be using at the time!
No chance you have a second switch hidden on on top , etc near that outside sink?
I would expect to have two different switches if you have the drain pump on the outside sink, but then that may just mean I'm totally confused on what you have, so straighten me out, please!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

I'm not sure we are getting a clear picture. So I admit to being confused and asking?
What I "thought" you had was one pump for water pressure from the holding tanks to faucets and I would expect there to be a switch on a panel inside to control this pump. Some larger RV also have switches in the bath or near an outside shower.
But then I see on the drawing, there is a pump near an outside sink and this pump only acts to boost the waste water from that outside sink to the nearest holding tank which is the black tank.
So that leaves me confused??? Am I not looking at the right drawing with this being the one for the 2019 Sunstart IFE29VE (Serial Number begins with 70E40Y2) the other having seven digit of 1, OR am I confused about how this should work?
I would not expect the fresh water pressure pump switch to also turn on a pump to move drain water from a sink that you might not be using at the time!
No chance you have a second switch hidden on on top , etc near that outside sink?
I would expect to have two different switches if you have the drain pump on the outside sink, but then that may just mean I'm totally confused on what you have, so straighten me out, please!

No you are not confused. I was wrong I do have two switches. I forgot about the switch to pump the water out of the sink. You actually have to manual hold it, as it turns off the instant you let it go.

Where do you find those wonderful angles of the drawings? I thought I had some drawings from Winnebago but not views that you have.

70E40Y2 is the correct start of my Serial number 2019 29VE Sunstar

So the questions now is do I have 2 of these fuses and what amp are they. Of course the Outside Kitchen drain pump ( new term for me so I don't get confused anymore ) goes out because I would not use it, but potentially I could use the line that feed to Fresh water supply.

I will look again to see if I see a fuse near the pump.

In the meantime, my backup plan is to pull out my Schumacher battery charger and set it for 50 amps. That should cover the Jet Flo, but the input voltage would actually be 13.7 vdc

[Morich]

Oh yeah! There should be a great big flashing sign to point any new user of the site to the new form of "parts catalog" that Winnebago now gives us! It used to be a trauma to get a good look but they upgraded and now it works on lots of other browsers, etc.
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
from that start, you can sort through to your specific RV and that where I get into wanting to know serial number of your RV. Then you can choose which system like water, then drain. It does take some playing to get more used to all the bells and whistles of how to get the angle to see what you want but there is a great amount of info there and we can often turn the Rv around, flipit ,etc. to look for those little lost parts like relays or switches.
This might be one that would really help you find the breaker. Not always as good as we might like because it often tells you Breaker 6 amp but doesn't tell you a thing about what it does. At the same time they gave us great detail on parts, they dropped the actual wiring which we need to trace some specific wire item like what wire feeds the pump! GREAT place to start!
keep drilling down and making choices and you can eventually get down to 12 volt wiring for what should run the pumps and then maybe it's on the chassis? So you may get down to this drawing:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2019/329020.htm
Some hints on "driving" around the parts?
You can get to first picture and there are some big things that help.
One is what view you want from front, back, left, right top , bottom, etc.
Two is for options on how to turn or rotate to look closer. Leftmost in two is where you can choose a specific point on the drawing to keep centered, so if you see you want to look at point I've marked three but it goes off screen when you zoom in with your scroll wheel on PC, you can click the leftmost symbol at two to choose that "tool" then click at three to make it center on that. This has to be done before zooming, etc. but you can see when it actually happens, Then you can scroll to zoom, or drag your pointer to turn it around, etc. Sometimes, I get the RV so cockeyed that I just click a different view like top and start over.
You get your RV turned over, it's hard to get it straight!!
But once you get it going and zoomed into some spot like at three, you may see lots of funny looking stuff and want to know what it is!
click the funny item and it comes up yellow and shows on the list at right! Bingo, you now know there are three of those "mega fuses", right there!
What part you click on the drawing shows up yellow and is highlighted on the list or you can find an item on the list and it shows up yellow on the drawing, so you can drop down a few lines to breaker 6 amp, click it repeatedly and it flashes somewhere on the drawing you have up! I picked this one as simple and there is only one small group other than the one we are looking at, so I went to the far side of the RV and turned it around to spot the yellow flashing as I clicked the list.
At first, I got only a peek at the yellow but tilting it, I see there are two with a better view!
Best video game I've found!!! Cheap too.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Oh yeah! There should be a great big flashing sign to point any new user of the site to the new form of "parts catalog" that Winnebago now gives us! It used to be a trauma to get a good look but they upgraded and now it works on lots of other browsers, etc.
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm


from that start, you can sort through to your specific RV and that where I get into wanting to know serial number of your RV. Then you can choose which system like water, then drain. It does take some playing to get more used to all the bells and whistles of how to get the angle to see what you want but there is a great amount of info there and we can often turn the Rv around, flipit ,etc. to look for those little lost parts like relays or switches.
This might be one that would really help you find the breaker. Not always as good as we might like because it often tells you Breaker 6 amp but doesn't tell you a thing about what it does. At the same time they gave us great detail on parts, they dropped the actual wiring which we need to trace some specific wire item like what wire feeds the pump! GREAT place to start!
keep drilling down and making choices and you can eventually get down to 12 volt wiring for what should run the pumps and then maybe it's on the chassis? So you may get down to this drawing:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/2019/329020.htm
Some hints on "driving" around the parts?
You can get to first picture and there are some big things that help.
One is what view you want from front, back, left, right top , bottom, etc.
Two is for options on how to turn or rotate to look closer. Leftmost in two is where you can choose a specific point on the drawing to keep centered, so if you see you want to look at point I've marked three but it goes off screen when you zoom in with your scroll wheel on PC, you can click the leftmost symbol at two to choose that "tool" then click at three to make it center on that. This has to be done before zooming, etc. but you can see when it actually happens, Then you can scroll to zoom, or drag your pointer to turn it around, etc. Sometimes, I get the RV so cockeyed that I just click a different view like top and start over.
You get your RV turned over, it's hard to get it straight!!
But once you get it going and zoomed into some spot like at three, you may see lots of funny looking stuff and want to know what it is!
click the funny item and it comes up yellow and shows on the list at right! Bingo, you now know there are three of those "mega fuses", right there!
What part you click on the drawing shows up yellow and is highlighted on the list or you can find an item on the list and it shows up yellow on the drawing, so you can drop down a few lines to breaker 6 amp, click it repeatedly and it flashes somewhere on the drawing you have up! I picked this one as simple and there is only one small group other than the one we are looking at, so I went to the far side of the RV and turned it around to spot the yellow flashing as I clicked the list.
At first, I got only a peek at the yellow but tilting it, I see there are two with a better view!
Best video game I've found!!! Cheap too.

This is very cool.. So glad I bought a Winnebago, site has changed a lot since I was last on it.

I will give myself a week or so to play with this. I was able to find the water pump but nothing about the electrical for the water pump.

That one diagram shows the 12 vdc fuse but I am not so sure that exist on my coach? I may have to call Winnebago on Monday. I actually have 12vdc breakers, but I can tell which of any of the DC breakers control water pump? I don't know how you can manually trip the breakers? If I could I could go by trial and error to see which one covered the water pump?

But with all of that said, I read on the pump itself where Shurflo is recommending a 10 amp slow burning fuse? But when I looked inside tonight, I could see nothing of a fuse. I will not use the Shurflo wires when I do get the Jet Flo unless I get confirmation the wires can handle 20amps.

If my battery charger does not work well, I may go buy the cheapest 12v battery I can find and just pull it out every time I need to dump sewer

[Morich]

Lots of different ways to go and working out which does best is going to take some playing with things.
For the idea of finding which fuse or breaker feeds anything, it can be fairly simple but it also has some risk!
To blow the circuit, the downside is that then you are in a pickle until you do find Where that fuse/breaker is located! but blowing it is as easy as finding some point like where the pump wiring might plug in and then put a short wire across the two wires feeding the pump as that makes a dead short and does blow the breaker, etc. Maybe want to hold the wire with pliers or such to keep the fingers back from any sparking? Nicer if it is a resettable breaker, so you don't have to buy a new fuse but it definitely WILL blow it quick!
For getting power to the new pump, any wire from the battery positive to the pump and then a wire from the pump to ground like the frame will let you run the pump. Think of it as kind of like a jumper cable to start a car, only doing it to run the pump. Any point on the hot wiring, like at the battery or at the generator connection that has a big enough breaker to feed the 20 amp for the pump will do and any point on the frame that is good and clean will almost always be ground. So you don't have to have two wires all the way to the hot point, just the one and then find ground close to where you want it. A set of jumper cables all the way to the battery is one sure way but kind of hard to handle and too big for what you need.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Lots of different ways to go and working out which does best is going to take some playing with things.
For the idea of finding which fuse or breaker feeds anything, it can be fairly simple but it also has some risk!
To blow the circuit, the downside is that then you are in a pickle until you do find Where that fuse/breaker is located! but blowing it is as easy as finding some point like where the pump wiring might plug in and then put a short wire across the two wires feeding the pump as that makes a dead short and does blow the breaker, etc. Maybe want to hold the wire with pliers or such to keep the fingers back from any sparking? Nicer if it is a resettable breaker, so you don't have to buy a new fuse but it definitely WILL blow it quick!
For getting power to the new pump, any wire from the battery positive to the pump and then a wire from the pump to ground like the frame will let you run the pump. Think of it as kind of like a jumper cable to start a car, only doing it to run the pump. Any point on the hot wiring, like at the battery or at the generator connection that has a big enough breaker to feed the 20 amp for the pump will do and any point on the frame that is good and clean will almost always be ground. So you don't have to have two wires all the way to the hot point, just the one and then find ground close to where you want it. A set of jumper cables all the way to the battery is one sure way but kind of hard to handle and too big for what you need.

I am going to hang in there, reverse engineer this thing until I figure it out. If necessary I will call Winnebago.

These are few material facts that I think I are new.
1. Shurflo recommends a 15amp fuse so wherever it is; it is like to be 15 amps. (Assuming Winnebago followed that recommendation).
2. The wiring diagram show automotive fuses for my coach but that is not true in my chassis. I believe it is either or option? I have 12v resettable fuse and flip switch breakers for AC. So yes, I would have to short to know which one.
3. Of the 12vdc resettable fuses, there are 4 probable one for the water pump. One is 20 amps and three say 15 amps, all say "Lamps"
4. Looking closer, I am beginning to think the wiring that feeds the female connectors that the Water pump plugs to is part of the same circuit for the lamp in the bay? That may explain why it goes up to the top of the compartment? It is amazing that the Winnebago drawings don't show the water pumps on the electrical drawings !!!
5. Shurflo mentions on pump that a slow burning fuse as being recommended. But there are no fuses of any kind that I can see at the pump. I think it has to be on the line with one of the resettable, but my manual says nothing about what is on those resettable breakers.


As far as power goes, I am still looking at lots of options
1. Connect to female plug that supplies water pump. Maybe replace the Jet-Flo 20 amp fuse with a 15 amp fuse
2. Use Battery charge on 50 amp setting
3. Research a new electric 12 vdc power source that can handle 20 amps
4. Go to wal mart and buy the cheapest 12v battery on the shelf
5. Go with Alligator clamp on positive post of generator and clamp ground on frame. May use car cables as I already have them

It is too bad that it is no way to turn off a resettable fuse to see what it controls

[Morich]

Some thoughts that may help. One is that resettable fuses and breakers are much the same and the terms may be kind of interchangeable at times. Sometimes language is not as precise as it should be.
On the fuse/breaker size, if the item needs 14 amps to run, it is normal for the circuit to have a somewhat larger fuse as it needs to be able to feed the item plus a bit to avoid the fuse blowing too often. The fuse or breaker only sets an upper limit to how much current can flow at one time. and how much each item may draw is set by engineer design and may vary high or low, so they do allow a bit of "slack" for things. The purpose of slow blow is to let us get away with doing things like starting a motor which can mean more current flow but just for a short bit until the motor get turning.
So with that amount of variable and IF Winnebago decided it effective to run a light on the same circuit, you might find a pump rated for 10 amps combined with a light needing another amp, so they might put in a 15 or even 20 amp protection fuse or breaker. Those parts don't really do anything, but just cut off the current before the wires get too hot and start a fire.
Yes, I was also thinking that opening the fuse or breaker to see what stopped was another way to go and better than blowing it and then having to hunt for where!!

So small idea? The wires leading to things like the pump are supposed to have labels on the side with a code so that we can go to this chart:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ical_guide.pdf

The letter code should be printed on the wire side( if we can get to enough) and be the last two or three letters. With that code like JA and JS, we can look at the list and find the first column is "from" and the left most column is "to" with idea that we can sort out things without actually having a wiring schematic! HAH.....
I find that I can do this on a PC. Gt the code list up, press "ctrl and "F at the same time for finding words in PDF format, then type pump in the search box at the top where it gives me small arrows to scroll down through the codes to tell me each time "pump" is mentioned in the list. No need to look at BF as that is the windshield washer pump!
Some help but I like better!
One way to deal with getting power to the pump if you have a car to pull up alongside? Just some extension cord wire is good enough so stripping the end and using something like a cloths pin to hold it on the car battery might be easy to use it much like a jumper cable? Since we don't do it often, temporary might work okay attimes. Might be easier than having a spare battery setting around going bad and under foot?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

So small idea? The wires leading to things like the pump are supposed to have labels on the side with a code so that we can go to this chart:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram...ical_guide.pdf

The letter code should be printed on the wire side( if we can get to enough) and be the last two or three letters. With that code like JA and JS, we can look at the list and find the first column is "from" and the left most column is "to" with idea that we can sort out things without actually having a wiring schematic! HAH.....
I find that I can do this on a PC. Gt the code list up, press "ctrl and "F at the same time for finding words in PDF format, then type pump in the search box at the top where it gives me small arrows to scroll down through the codes to tell me each time "pump" is mentioned in the list. No need to look at BF as that is the windshield washer pump!
Some help but I like better!
One way to deal with getting power to the pump if you have a car to pull up alongside? Just some extension cord wire is good enough so stripping the end and using something like a cloths pin to hold it on the car battery might be easy to use it much like a jumper cable? Since we don't do it often, temporary might work okay attimes. Might be easier than having a spare battery setting around going bad and under foot?

I was able to get P/N off the wires to the Water Pump
329026-01-000C<O>JS - Yellow From TONITOR PANEL WATER PUMP SWITCH ===> To WATER PUMP
329026-01-000C<O>JY - White From WATER PUMP OR WATER PUMP CONTROL ===> To GROUND

So I guess that means I have to find out where the wires from the switch are From?

I did did try reverse lookup on Panel Water Pump and got the below

AF / 12 YEL WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 MONITOR PANEL WATER PUMP SWITCH
AG / 12 YEL WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 MONITOR PANEL WATER PUMP SWITCH



So since I didn't quit I tried to lookup WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 and got

FJ / 12 YEL WATER PUMP SWITCH #2 (THREE SWITCH SYSTEM) WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 (THREE SWITCH SYSTEM)
FK / 12 YEL WATER PUMP SWITCH #2 (THREE SWITCH SYSTEM) WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 (THREE SWITCH SYSTEM)

Not sure if this means that source power for Pump #1 and Pump #2 are the same? It gives me pause for hope that maybe it is the one 20 amp breaker marked for Lamps?

Anyway I dead ended on WATER PUMP SWITCH #1 (THREE SWITCH SYSTEM)


I have some wire long enough to reach the positive post on genset and I was going to make one end with the alligator clips and the other with the matching sea dog 2 pin waterproof connector to plug into Jet Flo, but then I realized that getting into the generator bay and lifting that Onan cover is actually worse than lifting the stairwell floor to get to all my batteries on my coach.

I may be forced to go buy the cheapest 25ft extension cord and add alligator clips to the hot and ground wires (disregard neutral) and use the sea dog 2 pin connector on end with Jet Flo

As far as getting another battery charger I found this one that limits out at 20 amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-20A-Int...9/143652069097

I can't speak for quality but it should work. I could use existing extension cords. All this would do would save me the hassle of lifting the hatch on the stairwell to access the batteries. But the more I dig into this, taking they hatch off may ultimately be what I have to do.

I have put that Electrical PDF in my permanent SOP files that I am writing for myself.

[Morich]

Yes, need to keep in mind that this list is meant to work for all winnebago RV, so there are numerous listings which won't show up on your RV, like you may have a single switch for the pump but other RV may have more than one switch like three!
On the power supply for the pump, any charger than does put out at least 20 amp might work okay but lots may not do that as they are meant for more slow charging batteries where doing it at 20 amp would be too fast and boil the battery.
It may be easier once you get hands on with the pump to see what size wire you might need for anything. Main idea is that if you go too far with too small wire, it can get hot while you are pumping. Not really a fire hazard but better not to get a wire so hot that it burns your hand if touched. Shorter wire can be smaller but longer like 25 feet, I like to keep it big enough to not worry where I lay it!
If you are picking up the 12 volt on the rv somewhere, you only really require one wire from the hot point to the pump and then you can pick up the ground much closer to the pump as almost all metal parts of the RV are ground.

[wyocamper]

Sorry to interrupt guys, but going back to the original post:

I'm not a very experienced rv'er, but one thing that I can say without any hesitation whatsoever: There is no circumstance under which I would ever have the holding tank valves open and an end cap on the drain hose. None. It will never ever happen, ever.

Well, Ok, there might be one. If some guy I didn't really want to be around insisted on camping near me, and said individual was more than a little gullible, I could envision a "hey buddy, do me a favor and pop that end cap off for me, will you?" scenario. But that's it.

[lenny-shawna]

Originally Posted by SeeTheUSA

Do everyone and our environment a big favor .... don’t leave black and/or gray outlet valves or the outlet cap open if you are moving your rig. Thanks.

Well said

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by wyocamper

Sorry to interrupt guys, but going back to the original post:

I'm not a very experienced rv'er, but one thing that I can say without any hesitation whatsoever: There is no circumstance under which I would ever have the holding tank valves open and an end cap on the drain hose. None. It will never ever happen, ever.

Well, Ok, there might be one. If some guy I didn't really want to be around insisted on camping near me, and said individual was more than a little gullible, I could envision a "hey buddy, do me a favor and pop that end cap off for me, will you?" scenario. But that's it.

If you go back to the original post the why for me was in 1st two sentences?

Today I decided to not just drain but thoroughly clean and flush tanks.

So I drive to a Camp Sewer facility with plenty of time on my hands. I have 2019 Sunstar 29VE

I accept that everyone do not have the same level of curiosity, but I wish to learn my coach inside out. If you have never done what I have done, you don't really know when / if you tank is empty? It is not about wanting to drive the RV with a valve open. I think that is obvious even for beginners to close the valve but I willfully left it open, because I felt it should have been 100% empty. My manual did not say when draining tanks that up to 2 gallons could be sitting on the bottom , so I would not have otherwise thought that to be an issue. I been on these forums for a year and never heard anyone discuss that tanks are not empty after you drain them? I took my coach home not to a campsite, and I was that that guy that pulled that cap. But I was also able to just as quickly put it back on. That was the Fiasco that is referenced in the Title. I don't think I will ever do it again (nor have need to), I have learned "why" that happened and how to avoid in future. Case in point, thanks to hydraulics I now know how to raise / level my RV after a sewer dump to get it all out. It is bone dry now even of antifreeze. I have also bought a clear camco 3 " extender; so I can see what may be sitting there, but even better, I have a 10 ft sewer hose on the end of the extender so if something else were to come from somewhere that it would drain to that hose. But it has been several days; I drive and use my RV year round, it is bone dry. Not one drop has gone to the Sewer hose which I have removed and checked every day since the day of this thread. I hope the thread helps others to understand why the valve should be closed, and the limitations of black tank draining. That is what it has done for me.

Side Note: Back in January and February 2020; when my tanks were drained, it was assumed dry; but since I used the same dump facility back then; the black tank clearly was NOT. My valves were closed then. Fortunately for me I live in Dallas where a freeze is not a real hard freeze; as I could have had a frozen black tank sewer line and/or valve? I now know how to drain it 100% where valve is not holding fluid and /or to add sufficient antifreeze to counter the 2 - 3 gallons that may still be in tank based on a normal drain.

[TerryMA]

I am a newbie this year in Micro Minnie 2106fbs... I discovered that when emptying the tanks I hook up a spray stick to the shower( a small connector does the trick) I put that in the toilet while I am draining the black tank. This adds extra water as well as cleaning the sides and sensors. I completely empty the tanks and fill it again about 2/3 again. This seems to clean it out very well and keeps the sensors sensing correctly as well. ( my tank has a flush, however it seems to be inoperable)

[wyocamper]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

If you go back to the original post the why for me was in 1st two sentences?

Today I decided to not just drain but thoroughly clean and flush tanks.

So I drive to a Camp Sewer facility with plenty of time on my hands. I have 2019 Sunstar 29VE

Oh yeah, I read your OP, and went back to read it again to make sure I wasn't missing something. I understand your curiosity, I just don't think I'll ever be that curious about what might be in there.
I drain both tanks and dump a gallon of anti freeze in each. If I was really dying to know for sure, I'd stick the slinky in a 5 gal bucket and then open the drain before I put that AF in I guess. But I'm pretty sure I'm not ever gonna find out by taking the end cap off of a loaded hose.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by wyocamper

Oh yeah, I read your OP, and went back to read it again to make sure I wasn't missing something. I understand your curiosity, I just don't think I'll ever be that curious about what might be in there.
I drain both tanks and dump a gallon of anti freeze in each. If I was really dying to know for sure, I'd stick the slinky in a 5 gal bucket and then open the drain before I put that AF in I guess. But I'm pretty sure I'm not ever gonna find out by taking the end cap off of a loaded hose.

Agree there are several ways to do the same test. I have plenty of Harbor Freight Nitrile gloves; so no harm done. I stated above method and parts I am using for subsequent tests. My curiosity is laced in my personality. I also have added motivation of still being under Winnebago warranty with a about a month left before it is over? A few months ago, I was experimenting with what happens when the gray tank overfilled? I had assumed as some had told me it would back up into the shower? Well ours never did Eventually I figured out that the gray tank was leaking into a lower bay compartment when either full or driving when it was about 2/3rds full. Winnebago had me return to a Dealer in the Dallas area and they confirmed a leak with the fitting above the gray tank, but beneath the floor. It is fixed now (under warranty) and would have been hefty bill for me had I not been curious to wonder "what if"?

It has not been quite a year, but I love my Winnebago and Winnebago Ind. all the horror stories and fears with supposingly buying a new coach seemed to be overstated. I bought it, and I intend to know it inside out within a few years (inclusive of black tank

[NeilV]

Sometimes the plastic tanks do develop a belly to them between the support braces which may not allow them drain out completely at the dump station. Additionally depending on how you have your coach loaded it may be leaning to the passenger side a bit when the jacks are not set adding to the problem. To compensate for this I will raise the coach on the passenger side a little bit with the jacks to help get a better flow and get things draining.

[Morich]

Originally Posted by NeilV

Sometimes the plastic tanks do develop a belly to them between the support braces which may not allow them drain out completely at the dump station. Additionally depending on how you have your coach loaded it may be leaning to the passenger side a bit when the jacks are not set adding to the problem. To compensate for this I will raise the coach on the passenger side a little bit with the jacks to help get a better flow and get things draining.

On this point we have looked at the parts drawing to see that there is no way one is going to tilt the RV to get both black and grey tanks on his to fully drain!
One has to go to the drawings ( if you have the right year) to get a clear picture of how your Rv is drained, but on his, the tank drains are on opposing corners so that tilted to drain one, makes the other drain less!
Look back to post 11 to see how it worked out on his. Back end up, one drains but not the other, same for right and left! Unless one want to pick it up and shake it, it's not going to get both fully drained!

[golden13]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I opened the valve on the Gray tank when the black tank was draining a slow trickle of clean water coming from Sani Flush. What you state could occur but it would have been the gray water going into the black tank. That may have helped loosen some up if it was a clog?

Prior to today, I have never had both open at the same time. It was only because I believe the black tank was 100% empty.

When time permits, I will try to replicate this using all fresh water in the black tank. I am beginning to wander if the level of coach had an impact? The facility was level but maybe some parts of the tank could not drain. but when I get home I was only a slight slope for water drainage. It may have been just enough to get 2 - 3 more gallons of black waster water?

My drain pipe always has a gallon or two of sewage in it when I open it up. I use a muck bucket to catch it, then dump it down the sewer at the end. I also use a SewerSolution water macerator, which is fantastic! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It self-cleans at the end, and no more stinky slinky!

[dkoldman]

NeilV, Morich, Golden 13

I am humbled with your help and advice. The diagram noted by Morich says it all in my case. It is one thing to read about what to do; but quite the experience to live through the 1st hand experience of why it doesn't work as one might expect

Anyhooo @Morich

I was able to talk with Winnebago today. They too got stumped on whether I had fuses or not. They eventually had to send me the unpublished diagram of the 12v Wiring for my specific Serial code as they call it, tad different than the the base Serial number.

What I learned was that my Fresh water pump is wired with the Monitor/TV resettable breaker. It is 15 amps They told me how I could use a empty breaker slot that was intended for a TV lift that I do not have. I conclude that I will not do either. I don't want to risk putting a Jet flo with 20 amps requirement on the line with water pump that wiring is rated for only 15 amps, nor do I wish to wire direct to the fuse block. I would rather just wire to battery or positive lead to generator than going to the trouble to connect to fuse block. Plus I may need that for some future expansion to the RV.

Wiring to my generator positive post may not be as bad as I thought. I would need to drill a hole in the side of the wet bay plastic compartment, but it could be done. It is about 12 feet away from Genset. Going to my battery is about 25 feet.

I would have ordered the copper clad wire today, but I could not get FloJet on the phone. I wanted them to tell me if their existing wiring and sea dog 2 pin connector that will come in the box is 10 or 12 gauge? Seems counterintuitive if it is 12 gauge wiring that comes with the pump and I get 10 gauge wire for a 25' run?

I am thinking of just ordering 25' of 12 gauge regardless of which run I actually make? My preference now is to somehow get it on the positive post of genset.

I noticed that with the exception of of the opening for the 3" sewer holes, there are no drain holes in the bottom of the wet bay? Seems like since it is a wet bay, you would want a hole or two on the low side of that compartment so water could drain versus using a towel when trying to clean it out? I like to spray rinse my tank, and I find myself trying to push it to the 3 inch opening. While under the RV today, I got to thinking of taking a drill and cutting one hole in lowest point? Any thoughts

[Morich]

Easy part first? I also have wondered about why no drain holes in the wet bay as it does get some spills now and then and if that spill is big enough to actually feel bad about it going on the ground, it's going out the big hole anyway! But for small spills like a half cup of water, t sure would be easier to just stick a hose in and trickle water to flush out the smell and a 1/4 inch hole sounds good to me. Folks have told me that would let ants in but I tend to think they get in a three inch hole anyway? I have a hole in the future plans but not moved to do it yet.
Wire size and other things of possible interest since the flojet was out today?
It comes with directions for wiring, so it is pretty plain but thought to send it along for entertainment! big thing is to get it wired so there is a complete full circle and to make sure the polarity is right as the motor WILL turn backwards but not pump worth a flip!
Copy of wiring diagram in instructions. Remote switch with on/off red button and fuse under black cover at left. picture of plug and I think it comes with both male and female in the kit. Black rubber cover over screwdriver slot to turn shaft if needed as mentioned.
Interesting point is that ALL the wiring they provide as 14 gauge stranded, so it is one of those where they likely rated the fuse to cover more than enough and the wire size is a decision on how far and how much extra "slack " you want versus higher price.
Since you are likely to be standing there holding it, fire is not a big worry but 12 gauge does mean you have slightly less chance of the pump not getting quite enough current if it is longer like 20-25 feet.
Kick yourself for spending more or kick yourself double hard if it keeps blowing a fuse?
The fun things we do, huh?