Black Tank Surprised Fiasco

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

So this is what it looks like. Compressed sewer hose with end cap inserted. Notice the black tank drain valve is wide open. Remember the black tank has been completely refilled with fresh water, dawn, and then drain again. In theory the Black tank is 100% empty at this picture. However I drained it at home not at facility; so experiment is not the exact same.

The point is that when I drive it again and if water does sloush out; it will be caught by the sewer hose. I can then put the top cap on sewer hose and transport to safe location to dump.

Nice and neat in there!

Your experiment will work, UNLESS, there’s enough water left in your tank that more than fills the hose. Then, when you disconnect it, it’ll still come pouring out of the manifold drain line. You may need two hoses?

I’m still not in favor leaving our drain line open. Why not keep it shut?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

Nice and neat in there!

Your experiment will work, UNLESS, there’s enough water left in your tank that more than fills the hose. Then, when you disconnect it, it’ll still come pouring out of the manifold drain line. You may need two hoses?

I’m still not in favor leaving our drain line open. Why not keep it shut?

Thanks, I am one of those perpetual cleaners. For years I use to joke with folks how I could eat in the bilge area of my boat

Understand this is an exception and a controlled experiment. I have "No Intent" or purpose of doing so long term, however if I suspected the valve(s) ever had a leak, I could see where I may keep it as pictured while traveling (but both valves would be closed in that situation though)

This is a DOE for me (Design of Experiment) I have a premise that when I dump, I wish to be 100% empty So I am studying why that was not the case. At most, it was about 2 gallons, but if it occurs again, I can get the exact amount because of the hose. If it were more; I would know because the hose would be heavy. I can extend the hose out to 10 ft. In theory, if the full 10 feet was full. I would close the valve and simply go back to dump facility to drain the hose. I would have a bigger problem if that was needed, or if I needed to connect the 2nd 10ft hose.


Note: Now and for the rest of the experiment, it is all fresh water (in black tank) anyway. The tank is theoretically empty and clean, but perhaps 2 gallons of dirty fresh water ( in black tank) remains? I will not know until my next drive. Or when the weather warms, I may just go raise the rear hydraulics to see if water comes out?

Based on lessons learned thus far, I ordered a Flojet Macerator today. In future, I wish to be able to dump the black tank from home as an option. I am also looking to buy some clear Camco adapter extenders; so I can see if any liquids are suspended from tanks, or past valve(s) before opening.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Thanks, I am one of those perpetual cleaners. For years I use to joke with folks how I could eat in the bilge area of my boat

Understand this is an exception and a controlled experiment. I have "No Intent" or purpose of doing so long term, however if I suspected the valve(s) ever had a leak, I could see where I may keep it as pictured while traveling (but both valves would be closed in that situation though)

This is a DOE for me (Design of Experiment) I have a premise that when I dump, I wish to be 100% empty So I am studying why that was not the case. At most, it was about 2 gallons, but if it occurs again, I can get the exact amount because of the hose. If it were more; I would know because the hose would be heavy. I can extend the hose out to 10 ft. In theory, if the full 10 feet was full. I would close the valve and simply go back to dump facility to drain the hose. I would have a bigger problem if that was needed, or if I needed to connect the 2nd 10ft hose.


Note: Now and for the rest of the experiment, it is all fresh water (in black tank) anyway. The tank is theoretically empty and clean, but perhaps 2 gallons of dirty fresh water ( in black tank) remains? I will not know until my next drive. Or when the weather warms, I may just go raise the rear hydraulics to see if water comes out?

Based on lessons learned thus far, I ordered a Flojet Macerator today. In future, I wish to be able to dump the black tank from home as an option. I am also looking to buy some clear Camco adapter extenders; so I can see if any liquids are suspended from tanks, or past valve(s) before opening.

This is what we keep connected to the discharge connections, in order to back flush, and also see what it the pipeline...just another idea, works well for us...

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Wyatt

This is what we keep connected to the discharge connections, in order to back flush, and also see what it the pipeline...just another idea, works well for us...

The Flojet macerator we ordered yesterday will also backflush. We also have the SaniFlush; but I don't think clogging was an issue for us. Think about it; when the 2 - 3 gallons that did come out came out, it was only slurry. No solid nothing. By optionally being able to pump the tanks to a toilet at home, I can raise / lower coach as needed to ensure it is all out. When finished; I will have the new clear 3" long Camco extender attachment to see if anything drips to cap.

I am actually very glad I did this, am I like my mitigation plan going forward. My goal is to know this RV inside / out and that includes the waste tanks. It is half the reason why I bought it.

[tinglett]

I have to agree by my experience that the camco dual flush works well for this kind of thing. My scenario was a bit different. I have a flojet macerator that I sometimes use, and early on I had a lot of trouble with it. The camco works super well because it gives you a 2nd place to shut off the flow, with the bonus that you can see what's going on (ok, some may prefer not to see -- but I wanted to know!). I've since figured out the macerator, but still use this setup "just in case." My TT already has a backflush so I haven't really needed to use that bit of the device.

In this case you'd start with it closed and only add the slinky if you find you have a problem. It still seems to me you are always going to get liquids out, though, unless you drive around a whole lot. What would worry me is that a couple gallons of ick weighs probably quite a bit more than what that slinky was designed to do. Hauling it through the house seems to me the last thing I'd want to do. My opinion

[tinglett]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

The Flojet macerator we ordered yesterday will also backflush.

Funny we posted at the same time! I'll look to see if I took a photo of my flojet setup.

[tinglett]

Dang, I don't have a photo of my Flojet setup. Next time I pull it all out, I'll take a photo.

I use a clear sewage angle fitting first, going into the camco dual flush gate, where I attach the Flojet. This gives me the ability to see what's going on, plus the ability to shut off the flow if I need to remove the macerator, plus a place for fluid to collect so the macerator never has to run with less than full flow. The idea is that I can open a tank valve while the camco dual flush is closed and know for sure that I have stuff to pump with the macerator.

On the output end of the macerator I have a hose fitting going into a 1" plastic ball valve which goes into a 1" pond hose. I got this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HYDROMAX...0100/310812633

The pond hose is excellent for this. It's incredibly flexible -- way more so than garden hose. And it's bigger. I cut mine into a 40' length and 60' length and I've pumped uphill about 6' through the 60' length. The other super nice thing about pond hose is that you are NEVER going to confuse it with a water hose.

The main problem with this setup are the number of valves. You need to keep a clear head so you don't find yourself pumping against (or from) a closed valve. But it works well. The ball valve on the pond hose gives me the ability to close off the hose to remove the macerator during trouble. Remember I am often working uphill and you could imagine what would happen if I removed the macerator. I practiced all this quite a bit with gray water and learned some lessons.

One other weird thing about the Flojet. I find it ALWAYS blows a fuse if I don't use a screwdriver to give it a little turn before using it. This happens only when pulling it out of storage (or from the store). Have some spare fuses. I suspect many of the bad reviews about it stopping are actually blown fuses.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by tinglett

Funny we posted at the same time! I'll look to see if I took a photo of my flojet setup.

Very good

Just to be clear.

I have "No Intent" of running a heavy sewer hose in and the house on regular basis. This was only an experiment to see what was happening with my tank and discussion is about how I may mitigate during the test.

If slinky hose was actually heavy, I would not have to move at all, in favor or going back to the dump facility. But I don't expect to have this issue in the future because all I am doing is learning how to completely empty my tanks 100% Before I may have only been 99% empty. Next test (in flight now) is only water but in the black tank and already drained. Time will tell how much I get out. I expect 1 - 2 gallons.

I have clear camco 3" extender on order along with flojet macerator, so I will be able to see in future.

Just so you know, I actually like the slinky hose, it is very easy for me and never been an issue. I got in this rathole, because I was testing if tank was really empty assuming that it had to be; but I was wrong. No big deal, it will never happen again. I am working on how I can ensure it empty for future if needed, and giving myself the option to drain from home using the macerator if I want to .

Thanks,

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by tinglett

Dang, I don't have a photo of my Flojet setup. Next time I pull it all out, I'll take a photo.

I use a clear sewage angle fitting first, going into the camco dual flush gate, where I attach the Flojet. This gives me the ability to see what's going on, plus the ability to shut off the flow if I need to remove the macerator, plus a place for fluid to collect so the macerator never has to run with less than full flow. The idea is that I can open a tank valve while the camco dual flush is closed and know for sure that I have stuff to pump with the macerator.

On the output end of the macerator I have a hose fitting going into a 1" plastic ball valve which goes into a 1" pond hose. I got this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HYDROMAX...0100/310812633

The pond hose is excellent for this. It's incredibly flexible -- way more so than garden hose. And it's bigger. I cut mine into a 40' length and 60' length and I've pumped uphill about 6' through the 60' length. The other super nice thing about pond hose is that you are NEVER going to confuse it with a water hose.

The main problem with this setup are the number of valves. You need to keep a clear head so you don't find yourself pumping against (or from) a closed valve. But it works well. The ball valve on the pond hose gives me the ability to close off the hose to remove the macerator during trouble. Remember I am often working uphill and you could imagine what would happen if I removed the macerator. I practiced all this quite a bit with gray water and learned some lessons.

One other weird thing about the Flojet. I find it ALWAYS blows a fuse if I don't use a screwdriver to give it a little turn before using it. This happens only when pulling it out of storage (or from the store). Have some spare fuses. I suspect many of the bad reviews about it stopping are actually blown fuses.

I wish you had posted your comments a day earlier or I waited a day later before buying the Flojet.

I could not decide between the Flojet and the SewerFlo. I went with the Flojet because I saw brand new one on ebay saving $35 off amazon's price.
The Flojet has the direct fitting for hose connection. But if I were to use a pond hose as you are, I would not need that and could have had the SewerFlo which is cheaper?

I think I will need to pump 60 - 75 ft" not sure yet?

I also like the case with the Jetflo, I am a neat freak I did not see any reviews or concern with fuses or them stopping. I did read that sewerflo was prone to breaking?

Look forward to seeing your pictures. I think mine will be positioned horizontal when in use? I plan to put the 3" straight clear extender in between to see.

I don't have a power power plan yet I have portable generator that has 12vdc; so I may pull it out each time at least until I am sure about what the Jetflo can do. Something permanent to provide power may come later? I wish it was 110volt AC though.

If mine blows fuses, I will contact flojet or return (unless you think it is still better than Sewerflo) I need portable and not many options, they were the best two I saw.

I already have 25' sewer hose, so I may just get a 50" one to add to it? I may even keep that hose at home as I don't really foresee using the macerator while traveling.

Thanks for sharing the info. Will let you know if I blow something up, or repeat the Robin Williams RV Movie Poop scene

[tinglett]

I think you will be fine with the Flojet. I hadn't noticed the Sewerflo has a barb fitting, but at the time I purchased I don't believe I had yet figured out what hose to use anyway. I came across the pond hoses quite by accident at my home center (I did have to special order the long one from Home Depot, but it had free shipping!). Your home center probably has short 25' ones in stock if you want to see what they are like.

I really like the ability to easily detach the macerator from this long hose and the hose fitting works well for that, though it is a bit of a restriction on the flow. Sure you can undo pipe clamps off a barb, but that's more work. I don't have photos, but I will take some of these fittings to give you some ideas.

The fuse blowing was really more of an annoyance and puzzle until I figured it out. Perhaps the Sewerflo wouldn't do it. I've just come to live with it as "something it does." There's a little rubber cap and the end of the motor that easily pulls off, and a flat bladed screwdriver can be used to give it a quarter turn. Once you do that, you are ready to use it for the day it seems. It'll be interesting if you don't need to do this...but I'd recommend you do it the first time you run it anyway "just in case."

I ended up powering mine from the zamp solar connector on my TT. I know this is direct connected to the battery and all I needed to do specially was to get a SAE gender adapter to flip the polarity. Oh...and note that the Flojet will happily run in reverse if you get the polarity backward! Someday I plan to add an SAE jack near the back by the sewer outlet, but the zamp is already on the same size so it isn't so bad.

I went down this rabbithole because we started to camp in our backyard early this year due to covid. And for much of the year I haven't had a tow vehicle, so we needed a way to dump without moving around the TT with an underpowered car. We are on acreage so have a septic tank. So the macerator was more of a matter of convenience and may not be needed much anymore as we since bought a vehicle again. Still, I'm happy to have it. Having more options is a good thing.

[Morich]

I might throw in what we are finding on the Flojet mace pump as I'm just now fighting that battle again. I DO NOt recommend it as it is not doing the job for me after two seasons and using it maybe five times!
For power, I did wire in a permanent connection as my genset is directly next to the wet bay and the 12V wiring to start it is handy to access and add a heavy duty two wire trailer connector. With the trailer plug on the genset wiring and the mating plug added to the pump, it is easy to connect, but that is not the part which blows the deal for me. I also have to remember to turn it a bit before hitting the power or it does blow the 20 amp fuse on the base of the pump! Seems something like shaft, bearings or impeller corrode and stick when stored, even after rinsing. No big thing--as long as I remember to do it each time!
My first season, I added a 50 ft hose of the larger size that it recommends, run in through the wall to a drain under a utility sink in the garage. To avoid drilling a brick wall, I went through an air vent at the water heater which gives a rise at that point of about three feet and the pump was able to drain the tank but quite slow. We normally drain at the last site and only come home with what we collect at pit stops along the way, so the speed was not a major deal.
But this year we got home with about 1/3 tank to drain and the pump is not getting it done! My first thought was a drain hose clog but I ran water through it and it is clear. With the clear adapter, I am able to see the pump is turning as it stirs the waste, but I can also see the same bit of debris/yuck is not moving out and down the drain!
When I take the drain hose out of the wall and into a bucket on the ground, the pump does pump, but if I lift the hose end, the flow get lower and lower and stops when I get maybe four feet of head height!
Torn down to look at the impeller, it appears the rubber fins which push the waste are now worn down and do not press tight against the sides to move it out!

[tinglett]

Originally Posted by Morich

Torn down to look at the impeller, it appears the rubber fins which push the waste are now worn down and do not press tight against the sides to move it out!

Oh yikes! Not a good sign. And just to add, mine blew a fuse on the first run. If it's some kind of corrosion, it happens from the factory, too. Perhaps they run some water through it as a test, but based on these experiences I wonder if there would be such a test.

[dkoldman]

Yall got me having buyers remorse and I have not received it yet

I should have asked about it before buying. Mine is due Friday. It is brand new so if you guys can convince I can put it up for sell when I receive and never use?

On the fuse and screwdriver, have either of you ever tried oiling it using that penetrating blaster lubricant or similar?

I need to run out to the generator, but am I hearing that the outside genset has 12vdc output source? I know my portable generator does and I was planning to use it, but I have yet to see that on my Onan 5500, but I have never looked.

Sounds like the impeller needs replacing on Morich unit? I had to replace impellers on my boat's generator every other year.

On hose I am thinking of using 5/8' inch hoses first with regular water, and then I am looking to buy this from Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...ose-63336.html and cut it down to just the length I need to drain in out toilet in the house.

I think I need 60 to 70 feet?

I only plan to use at home, but I could see carry the unit if I could get power from the coach itself? If I do carry, I would only use my orange 25' 5/8" hose from Camco.

Pictures attached to genset, I see a 12v positive post but not the ground. It is all tie wrapped protected so I hate to take it apart while under warranty? But if I did, is it 12v supplied as input to the generator or is it 12v output that requires the generator to be running? It is on same side as wet bay but two compartments and the rear well away from the wet bay.

[dkoldman]

I was able to confirm that when I raise my rear jacks in my driveway that already had a slight water runoff slope I was able to catch 1/3 gallon of water from my black tank. (Note: My black tank has been cleaned and was previously loaded and drained like normal of the fresh water added to it)

So this confirms that when at the dump facility, even though it was a level surface, my black tank retained 1 1/2 gallons of water. But when home the slight slope allowed more to drain out. To go 100% empty, I had to raise the rear about 2 inches.

Lessons Learned
1. I now have a 3' Clear Camco sewer fitting that I will always use over sewer cap. That way I will always know
2. Waiting on my Flojet Macerator (due tomorrow) so in future I may pump both tanks to a toilet at home and not use the local the storage facility anymore or as much.
3. I will continue to use the slinky when traveling, but know that it may have 2 gallons in black tank when the natural drain finishes. I don't plan to raise jacks every time I dump, but just maybe; if I know a very hard freeze is coming? I doubt 24 oz of black waste water can do any damage in the bottom of black waste holding tank.

[Morich]

A couple points to address on those posts. First is the way I connected to the genset, not on the output but by tapping into the wiring for starting the genset! The genset has a solenoid which you can spot pretty easy and it has the same functions as a car starter solenoid. Small wires for the controls to pull the solenoid and then a big battery cable from the starting battery (whichever your RV uses, coach or chassis battery?) which pulling the solenois connects to the genset starter.
So when looking for handy points to pick up 12VDC near the wetbay and pump, the battery cable to feed the genset solenoid is very handy on my RV. That leaves a big hoss battery cable which is hot full time and I never will be using the drain pump and genset starter at the same time!
In theory, I'm using the little wires on the pump tied to a fuse big enough to protect the battery cable and that could mean my pump wiring is not well protected but I'm willing to go with that as I'm usually holding the pump when used and if the wire gets too hot for safety, I'm thinking I'll already know it!!! No sneaky fire hazard on things I'm holding!
I'm betting there is full time 12VDC under that little pink cap with the plus sign and ground is right there under one of the mounting screws! But check that before accepting anything you read on the internet!
Rather than work too hard to get all the water out of the holding tanks, I think this way. I have to pour a certain amount down each drain that has a trap ( vanity, sink and shower) and it is not a precise thing of how much, so I just go with a cup in each and now that some of that goes into the grey tank to protect it from freezing. That makes it easy to also just add a cup to the stool at the same time to protect the black with a small amount of "excess" water that didn't drain. One point on the stool during storage is that the water on top of the flap/ball seal thing helps to keep odors from coming up to inside, so water evaporates pretty quick and the pink less quick, so I add a bit on top after dumping some into the tank. The pink keeps the RV from smelling quite as soon.
Kind of the old KISS idea. I have to have the pink for traps, so a bit down to each holding tank is no big thing as a cup of pink in the water remaining is good enough.
NOTE on the pump? When you get it, look for a rubber cover on the rear of the motor, where you can pull the cover to find a screwdriver slot to turn the shaft if it is sticking.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

A couple points to address on those posts. First is the way I connected to the genset, not on the output but by tapping into the wiring for starting the genset! The genset has a solenoid which you can spot pretty easy and it has the same functions as a car starter solenoid. Small wires for the controls to pull the solenoid and then a big battery cable from the starting battery (whichever your RV uses, coach or chassis battery?) which pulling the solenois connects to the genset starter.
So when looking for handy points to pick up 12VDC near the wetbay and pump, the battery cable to feed the genset solenoid is very handy on my RV. That leaves a big hoss battery cable which is hot full time and I never will be using the drain pump and genset starter at the same time!
In theory, I'm using the little wires on the pump tied to a fuse big enough to protect the battery cable and that could mean my pump wiring is not well protected but I'm willing to go with that as I'm usually holding the pump when used and if the wire gets too hot for safety, I'm thinking I'll already know it!!! No sneaky fire hazard on things I'm holding!
I'm betting there is full time 12VDC under that little pink cap with the plus sign and ground is right there under one of the mounting screws! But check that before accepting anything you read on the internet!
Rather than work too hard to get all the water out of the holding tanks, I think this way. I have to pour a certain amount down each drain that has a trap ( vanity, sink and shower) and it is not a precise thing of how much, so I just go with a cup in each and now that some of that goes into the grey tank to protect it from freezing. That makes it easy to also just add a cup to the stool at the same time to protect the black with a small amount of "excess" water that didn't drain. One point on the stool during storage is that the water on top of the flap/ball seal thing helps to keep odors from coming up to inside, so water evaporates pretty quick and the pink less quick, so I add a bit on top after dumping some into the tank. The pink keeps the RV from smelling quite as soon.
Kind of the old KISS idea. I have to have the pink for traps, so a bit down to each holding tank is no big thing as a cup of pink in the water remaining is good enough.
NOTE on the pump? When you get it, look for a rubber cover on the rear of the motor, where you can pull the cover to find a screwdriver slot to turn the shaft if it is sticking.

All excellent points.
- If Macerator proves to be effective without hassle (discounting the power connection initially) I will pursue a permanent power solution in wet bay. I may have it professionally wired to battery to wet bay which figures to be costly

- I have shuflo water pump so that may be simple enough for me to try at some point

- I do use antifreeze and 1 cup in all drains. I do not put the antifreeze on fresh water system. Some of the overkill is part of the fun, i.e. for fresh water full winterization, I have learned to leave the drain valves open for a few days to allow all of the residual water to drip dry. Even though fully winterized we still drive the RV so it may also knock out some additional water. I do not remove the hoses from pump, but it was not a problem back in Jan / Feb when we had some hard freezes. I do close them up and I am not shy about adding fresh water again during the middle of winter depending on where we are going.

- On Macerator Jet Flo, do you thing that penetrating blasting spray would help before or after each use? It looks like the intent of screwdriver is to turn the impeller? I am assuming some solids / rusting be in that section providing resistance making harder to turn? Or it could be as simple as the impeller has hardened in a tight area; if so the screwdriver may be only way, so no big deal since I now know before using.

[Morich]

If your generator is next to the wet bay, the generator starter current comes in directly from the battery on that cable, so I see no need to run a fully new cable to the battery as the two items will never be used at the same time. The only time that large cable to the generator is used is while cranking it to start., then after the generator has started, the starter cable is out of the loop.
I would assume the pump will still come with the two pin plug still as a part of the kit for wiring it, so I used it and just added a matching plug for the power side. Something like this is what I used and then made sure to wire it so that the hot power was in the point which has insulation over the end, to avoid any chance of it flopping around to get me into trouble shorting it out!
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-Polar...44392136&psc=1
The pump came with a poor set of connections as it has a short set of wires for the power making me put a power connection way closer to the water than I really wanted but then on the cord to the remote, they gave me about four feet!
Maybe they wanted me to be standing way back when I turned it on with the remote switch???? I do like to keep my water and power well separated!
I've not figured what makes the mace pump so hard to turn over at first each time but it does seem really sticky and then improves. I used it yesterday with a new impeller and it worked much better than expected. Maybe a defective one from the start?
One point that they caution about is the length of time to run the pump before giving it time to cool, so I did some timing, just to set a standard for how long I can get away with running it.
Using my phone timer, I found running fresh water into the black tank for rinsing, I could let it run full pressure from my hose for a full minute and the pump would remove that amount in about thirty seconds! That is running through 50 feet of the 3/4 inch diameter hose and up about the four feet of head to the drain, so I fine with that amount of pump speed as we assume we will never come home with full tanks but just a small amount we use and add on the last leg of a trip home. I would guess that would always be less than 10-20 gallons, so maybe only 5-10 minutes of actual pump running time?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

If your generator is next to the wet bay, the generator starter current comes in directly from the battery on that cable, so I see no need to run a fully new cable to the battery as the two items will never be used at the same time. The only time that large cable to the generator is used is while cranking it to start., then after the generator has started, the starter cable is out of the loop.
I would assume the pump will still come with the two pin plug still as a part of the kit for wiring it, so I used it and just added a matching plug for the power side. Something like this is what I used and then made sure to wire it so that the hot power was in the point which has insulation over the end, to avoid any chance of it flopping around to get me into trouble shorting it out!
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-Polar...44392136&psc=1
The pump came with a poor set of connections as it has a short set of wires for the power making me put a power connection way closer to the water than I really wanted but then on the cord to the remote, they gave me about four feet!
Maybe they wanted me to be standing way back when I turned it on with the remote switch???? I do like to keep my water and power well separated!
I've not figured what makes the mace pump so hard to turn over at first each time but it does seem really sticky and then improves. I used it yesterday with a new impeller and it worked much better than expected. Maybe a defective one from the start?
One point that they caution about is the length of time to run the pump before giving it time to cool, so I did some timing, just to set a standard for how long I can get away with running it.
Using my phone timer, I found running fresh water into the black tank for rinsing, I could let it run full pressure from my hose for a full minute and the pump would remove that amount in about thirty seconds! That is running through 50 feet of the 3/4 inch diameter hose and up about the four feet of head to the drain, so I fine with that amount of pump speed as we assume we will never come home with full tanks but just a small amount we use and add on the last leg of a trip home. I would guess that would always be less than 10-20 gallons, so maybe only 5-10 minutes of actual pump running time?

I actually have those Sea Dog connectors I use them on my float chargers for motorcycles.

Do you know how many amps the breaker or fuse is set for? My Shurflo pump is rated at 10 amps. If I could find one of the male connectors to put on the opposite end of one of the sea dog connector, I could simply unplug the water pump and plug the macerator into the same female connector? Or try to find a Y connector, but if I am forced to unplug the water pump, that may be safer proposition? See picture.

I did try to find the 12vdc lead going to onboard generator but it appears to part of about 8 or so looms tied together. I would need professional for that. See picture.

The feed of 12vdc to the water pump does not appear to be part of that loom, the wiring from pump seems to go up with drain lines and may be somewhere above the floor under sink next to water heater?

[Morich]

Okay, you have a different setup as my gen is just though the wall from my wet bay. But the ten amp for your pump is not one I would thing good for the Flojet which has problem of sometimes blowing the onboard 20 amp???
Just guessing without looking though!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Okay, you have a different setup as my gen is just though the wall from my wet bay. But the ten amp for your pump is not one I would thing good for the Flojet which has problem of sometimes blowing the onboard 20 amp???
Just guessing without looking though!

My Wet bay is middle of driver side and genset is rear of driver side. You have to go past the two small storage compartments and the rear well to get to Wet bay.

I could not find a DC breaker specifically labeled Water Pump. I think most of my DC is on breakers versus actual fuses? It may be part of one that is labeled something else? Unless it is direct wired to the battery and has fuse some place. There are actually 2 water pumps as the other is on the other side of the coach for kitchen sink. They have to be on same line because only one on/off switch inside the coach. Actually they may be my answer? .... ( I just went to check and both water pumps are 10 amps) So if they both can run on that line at the same time and they do and not trip a fuse; sure if I am not using either of the two but only Jet - Flo I should be able to pull adequate load. to twenty anyway where Jet Flo would stop.