Atwood water heater check valve location & purchases source

wagonmaster2 · 11-27-2006, 05:10 PM

I've been reading several posts with check valve problems and suggestions to replace it before any problem, but after searching Google I have been unable to find any place to purchase these valves. Any one have any suggestions?
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G W/Gas-Elec water heater

wagonmaster2 · 11-27-2006, 05:10 PM

I've been reading several posts with check valve problems and suggestions to replace it before any problem, but after searching Google I have been unable to find any place to purchase these valves. Any one have any suggestions?
Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G W/Gas-Elec water heater

ichn2go · 11-28-2006, 01:58 AM

Try Winnebago or Lichtsinn Motors 800 343 6255
Lots of people have been taking out the insides and simply hooking the pipe back together. Good Luck

dawg · 11-28-2006, 04:04 AM

Check at a local plumbing supply store for the check valve. It probably is a 1/2inch valve. I usually find my plumbing parts for my Winne there.
just a thought...

rick_od · 11-28-2006, 03:58 PM

I always use Lichtsinn Motors. Go to there web site and send Lonnie or David an email with your part number and they will give you a price. If you don't have the part number, tell them what RV and model year and what you want and they will find it for you. They usually reply to my email's within a few hours and if I order early enough they will ship it same day. I emailed them yesterday at 4pm EST and they replied within 15 minutes and said it would ship yesderday. You can't beat that kind of service. They are extremly professional. Once, I wanted to order some 5/8" heater hose to fix my MotorAid and they told me to go to my local NAPA. I know it's shameless but tell them I sent you and maybe I'll get a discount.

wagonmaster2 · 11-28-2006, 06:41 PM

Is this check valve actually in the water heater itself or is it part of one of the water lines? And I would assume if you get the replacement at a plumbing supply you would have to remove the old one first to be sure the new one matched? Still trying to figure out exactly where this valve is.
Wagonmaster2

DancinCampers · 11-28-2006, 08:33 PM

The check valve is attached at the HWH, the plumbing attaches to the valve. Here is a pic of the back of mine. The hot side check valve is at the top, the cold side check valve is at the bottom right, right after the elbow.

Just below the cold inlet you can see one end of the motoraid tube. This tube is welded to the tank, near the bottom on the back, like a smile. The left side still has the heater hose attached.

Also, in the center of the pic you can see the thermostat (upper left), ECO w/manual reset (upper right), and heating element (bottom center).

troth · 11-29-2006, 01:56 AM

Excellent pic and description, Dan! I'm bookmarking this one because I'll be referring to it often.

Thanks for the clarification!

rick_od · 11-29-2006, 03:53 PM

Mine looks just like Dans except it doesn't have the elbow. The check valve looks just like a pipe nipple. It is 1/2" MPT. It is about 3" long. It connects to the back of the HWH and your plastic Pex plumbing pipe connects to it. Even after replacing one I have had one fail. Winnebago says that they are only for needed for winterizing. I have access to the back of my HWH so I removed my check valves and moved my winterization valves to right at the back of the HWH. Also...I ordered an item from Lichtsinn Motors on Monday at 4Pm and received it this afternoon. Can't beat the service.

wagonmaster2 · 11-30-2006, 06:55 PM

Thanks for all the great information everyone, and Dan, the picture really helped understand the wording. This forum has been more help than all the dealers and the manufacturer I have talked to since I purchased this ?? .
Wagonmaster2
2004 Itasca Meridian 36G

tderonne · 07-16-2007, 10:23 AM

Drug up this old thread. We were victims of a bad check valve a few days ago. Getting at the valves was easier than I thought it would be, even in our 31Y that has a very small compartment behind the water heater (smaller than the 33V).

It's back togther minus the check valve guts. I'd like to replace both valves while I'm in there, I have some sheetmetal removed form the front slide actuator and the water pump dismounted, hate to have to pull it all apart again.

Is the replacement part that Winnebago has been updated? It would seem dumb to replace it with another valve that will fail in a few years. In another post someone mentioned finding an all brass one. I have found an all brass one but it has female rather than male threads on both ends. I hate to stack up a bunch of fittings.

Anyone have a supplier or part number I could google? I'm just starting to search, no luck so far.

rick_od · 07-16-2007, 02:37 PM

In my opinion, removing the guts eliminates the check valve problem but, now you essentially have a pipe nipple with a very small inside diameter. This would restrict flow. I contacted Winnebago and they said that the only reason for the check valves was for winterization. The check valve prevents you from filling the HWH with RV antifreeze. I removed my check valves completly and relocated the HWH winterization valves to the rear of the HWH. This of course means that you have to have easy access to the rear of your HWH which I do by removing two drawers.

tderonne · 07-17-2007, 03:46 AM

Lonnie at Lichtsinn says Winnebago still uses the same part. I'm not going through all the work to replace it with the same bad part. Of course, there may have been a bad run of parts that I got when ours was built, but I just don't think I want to risk it.

I have found an 810 series valve by SMC that appears to be what I'd need. No sources yet, but I least I have something to search for.

Wizard · 07-17-2007, 04:09 AM

Great pictures above. I ordered mine from tweety's.com, about $7.00. received in 3 days. I suggest you replace both when you start. I replaced the wrfong one first and mine was TOUGH to get to. Good luck.
www.tweety's.com

Roadking52 · 11-02-2008, 01:11 PM

Your post lives on. JUst bought an 02 Horizon, and got it home to discover no hot water. After reading all the posts on the subject, I decided to dig and fix it myself. Had to pull the HWH out about 3 inches and worked through an access door screwed to the bottom of the compartment. Found the spring and keeper gone on the outlet side of the HWH and the poppet cocked in the bore of the check valve. I pulled it out and removed the seat, and reinstalled. While I was in the neighborhood I went ahead and removed the inlet check valve and although it looked OK, I did a little preventative work and knocked the guts out of it too. Hot water everywhere now.
Thanks for the great information. BTW I couldnt see the picture you posted, but the description was right on.

Roadking52
02 Itasca Horizon 32TD, 2000 Vitara 4x4 Toad<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DancinCampers:
The check valve is attached at the HWH, the plumbing attaches to the valve. Here is a pic of the back of mine. The hot side check valve is at the top, the cold side check valve is at the bottom right, right after the elbow.

Just below the cold inlet you can see one end of the motoraid tube. This tube is welded to the tank, near the bottom on the back, like a smile. The left side still has the heater hose attached.

Also, in the center of the pic you can see the thermostat (upper left), ECO w/manual reset (upper right), and heating element (bottom center).

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

wagonmaster2 · 04-22-2009, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DancinCampers

The check valve is attached at the HWH, the plumbing attaches to the valve. Here is a pic of the back of mine. The hot side check valve is at the top, the cold side check valve is at the bottom right, right after the elbow.

Just below the cold inlet you can see one end of the motoraid tube. This tube is welded to the tank, near the bottom on the back, like a smile. The left side still has the heater hose attached.

Also, in the center of the pic you can see the thermostat (upper left), ECO w/manual reset (upper right), and heating element (bottom center).

HELP - I had the picture location Bookmarked in the old past IRV2 forum but when I just clicked on it all I got was "This forum now closed, see new one" or something like that. Can someone assist me in finding this picture again so I can have it available? So many are having problems with these Atwood valves I figure my time is coming and need to be prepared.
Thanks muchly for any help.

Wagonmaster2
2004 Meridian 36G

Pubtym · 04-23-2009, 06:57 AM

CAMCO RV Parts sells the valve...and it has all metal internal parts versus OE supplied Winnie sources..and it's plastic internals. About $8.. I installed one..no more problems...have a spare.

Found mine in a general (non dealer) RV parts store..just ask...be sure to get CAMCO one...Part Number 23303.

http://www.camco.net/Menu.cfm?SupCat...ProductId=2078

Vicap · 11-21-2013, 06:28 AM

Hi all, This morning my hot water heater wouldn't ignite (mdl G6A-8E electronic ignition). The manual says to check the 2 amp fuse in the circuit board. No time right now to take it apart so am asking all of you. Is the fuse evident by taking circuit board off? Is there a reset button somewhere?? Has anyone had the same issue and resolved it themselves?

THX to all, Vi

wa8yxm · 11-21-2013, 04:47 PM

If it has a check valve it is on the outlet. it is a common 1/2 inch spring check valve and you can find 'em in many places.

I do not like them, I would rather you put in a quarter turn valve. Less trouble over time.''

First: They are NOT an atwood part. Or so they will tell you.

Second: Since they do cause issues. which a valve will not cause.. The 3-valve bypass system is far better in my opinion. Though it is easier to screw up.

Sam Green · 11-21-2013, 08:25 PM

Vicap, I had the exact same problem with the exact same model number. After some testing, the repair man said it was the circuit board. Replaced the board and all was great. He also said that I could have removed the board and brought it into the shop and they would test it there. If it checks bad, you could replace it your self for around $125.00 Cost me $220.00 part and labor.