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Old 05-08-2012, 10:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by stearn View Post
One more question please. Did you have to make any changes to keep the surround sound?? I also noticed the originator of this post hasn't responded.
Surround sound is passed thru with the "old" DVD player. I kept that too. An with the "front" dash TV sound switch set to on "TV" and the "old" DVD player on Aux sound AND plugged into the new TV with the original sound out RCA plugs. Yep surround sound with the new TV. Got to watch how you hook stuff up...but it will work.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:39 AM   #22
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You and I probably have all the same TV set ups. We are interested in doing the front TV first. When you took out the back CRT, did you find any kind of adhesive holding it in place or was it held in place by hardware only? I hope to get to the front soon and will keep you posted on what I find. I hope it doesn't have some kind of adhesive pad. LOL
Hi Guys. I removed the 24 inch RCA in our 2007 Sightseer with the two bolts mentioned in the previous posts. Once loose, you have to take a putty knife and cut the adhesive tape along the top left and right of the TV. This freed up the bar and we were able to take the TV out. The removal of the bar took some crazy contortions but it is doable. This is due to the angles at the end of the bar which are welded on. In my case, I made an "I" shaped wood bracket using two 2X4's and a piece of 1 X 8 cedar. Bought a 'rail' type LCD TV bracket and mounted it to the cedar board positioning correctly from front to back in order to have the new TV exactly in the correct front position. I bought a SAMSUNG 26 inch LED backlit TV and mounted it on the mounting bracket. The bracket has a 'quick release' cord on the bottom, so you can just pull the cords and release the TV from the bracket and lay it down on the carpeted bottom of the TV box to attach wires and cables.
After getting the TV positioned perfectly within the box and behind the wood frame, I made two strips of 1/4 inch black plexiglas for filler strips at the bottom and top of the frame. I mounted them each with four screws to the back of the frame. For the frame, I bought a 12 inch piano hinge and mounted it on the left side of the TV box and put a roller hinge and a velcro holder on the right side for secure closure. Once closed it couldn't look more professional. Batwing brings in lots of channels in HD.
One final thing, was to purchase a Vizio 30 inch sound bar. This sound bar had mounting brackets on the bottom. When turned upside down, the backets slid in perfectly tight bewtween the metal TV frame and the wooden TV box. NO SCREWS even needed.. Hooked it up to the TV power outlet and to the audio out for the TV and now have great sound and a great picture.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:41 AM   #23
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How about some pics WH347? Description sounds great.
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Old 05-11-2012, 01:33 PM   #24
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Ok Ok.. I had to figure out how to do that.. Here is an URL of the pictures.. I promise to add one more of the finished project with the plexiglas panels in place. (Looks better).
http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...0IbsmzZq5cNHKg


Picture 1. The old TV removed. An I-shaped 1X3 MDO plywood with 1X8 cedar for a cross support for the FLAT PANEL Bracket. Picture shows bracket mounted and two 2 inch foam pads to provide back resistance pressure against the tv to hold it tight and to eliminate any chance of rattling.

Picture 2
Picture of lower right side of TV cabinet showing the mounting of the Vizio Sound bar to the cabinet.. fit tight with no screws needed by virtue of the bracket on the sound bar.

picture 3
picture showing the right side of the TV cabinet with the added roller hinge and velcro cabinet door closure.

picture 4
picture showing cabinet frame mounted to 12 inch piano hinge on the left and the tv and sound bar within the cabinet.

picture 5
The finished project. I have since added two plexiglas panels (black) on the top and bottom which are fastened to the cabinet frame and swing with the new frame (door). The door securely latches and is held with the additional velcro closure for added strength.


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Old 05-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #25
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I really like your work! Do you have a way that locks your TV in place for travel so it doesn't slide?
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:40 PM   #26
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Stevegd007

I really like your work! Do you have a way that locks your TV in place for travel so it doesn't slide?
Foam pads hold the TV to the bracket very tightly.. It ain't goin nowhere!.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #27
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Stevegd007

I really like your work! Do you have a way that locks your TV in place for travel so it doesn't slide?
Yep the drawer slides are kinda of stiff..they move, but ya got to work it to move..i.e. they move with effort. Then I ALWAYS travel with the front cabinet doors closed for Extra protection. So far no issues with movement.
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:34 AM   #28
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Everyone.. I promised to provide a picture of the finished installation now that I have added two black plexiglas panels in the cabinet hinged door. The door swings shut with the black panels fastened to the back of the door frame and close tightly around the new TV.
Below is the link to the finished picture.

http://share.shutterfly.com/share/re...0IbsmzZq5cNHOw


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Old 08-04-2012, 09:19 AM   #29
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Follow up Bedroom TV

Did the front TV conversion last summer, last week finished the new bedroom TV. New Samsung 24", cabinet creates about 6 cubic ft of storage. DW loves it.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:43 AM   #30
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OK...how did you all "create" the door, frame and back. Materials came from where?
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:44 AM   #31
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Installed a 32" Vizio. Correction, I hired it out. Credit where credit is due. These are a few pix of the install:Rmvd old RCA (inop). Original frame is visible.




Frame is cut along bottom of cavity.


TV installed on frame made by RV Tech. TV attached with 4 bolts into VESA receivers.


A black plexiglass is installed by snaps to cover the bottom of cavity. About a six inch swath (laterally) permits air circulation (between back of TV and edge of plexiglass. Air circulation is enhanced by opening at top of TV.




Finished installation. Two glitches: Surround Sound is inop in TV and AV (DVD) modes. Note absence of center (5th) speaker in final foto. It was too hard to do, so we just gave up. Surround Sound works OK in FM/AM/SAT Radio modes. I don't miss the stereo. At my age I'm happy to hear ANYTHING. Second glitch is the TV seems to be stuck on Fox News Channel. Not a bad thing......looking at Kimberly.

Old GE 19" TV in bedroom is still there and working well......so far. Another project for later.

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Hey Thudman,

I just ran across your post about negating the centre speaker. I noticed you used black plexi-glas to fill the bottom. Did you know you could build a mount or a box for the center speaker out of plexi-glas and weld it to the plexi-glas bottom? It is a liquid that only sticks plexi to plexi and evapourates where no contact. I used to work with the stuff making plexi-glas picture frames and such.
Also, you can remove the remainder of the stand off the bottom of your TV. 4 screws on the back.

Here is a Youtube of the process.

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Old 08-05-2012, 05:06 PM   #32
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Okay, the cabinet door came from the Cabinet Door Store (Canada), the closet liner is luann board, both stained with Min-Wax cherry. With 2 coats of Min-wax Polyurethane. The hinges came from Lowes and other hardware was obtained at True Value. Took about a week to dry fit, sand, stain and reassemble. Doable for any minor handyman with patience and time.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:35 AM   #33
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I have a 2005 Voyage with original tvs. Bt it used so dealing with normal problems. One of which is replacing analoge sets with digital. Currently broadcast television is becoming redundant if you have a computer. My questions are what to do with the space and how to get them out? Disabled so I have to get a mechanic to remove them and dont want to get gouged. Anybody been through this?
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Old 11-09-2012, 12:39 AM   #34
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I've been looking at my 2005 Voyage front TV (at ceiling above center of dash) and don't see a clear way of removing it. It may drop out of the bottom after I pull the plastic rivets from the bottom plastic cover up. I'm planning to mount a 32" edge lit LED to 3/8" cabinet grade plywood hinged to the existing trim, so I get storage space too.

My bedroom TV was removed by pulling the trim panel above the vanity (under the TV) to access the screws. This became a storage cabinet with doors ordered from Winnebago, since they were the same size as ones in the galley. We don't watch TV in the bedroom. Even this 20" TV was a chore to remove by myself due to the weight.

Duh, I just remembered the Parts Catalog has assembly diagrams. Look for yours at http://catalog.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm The front TV is shown under "Drivers Compartment Group" in "Cabinets". Not as much detail as I'd like, but at least a starting place.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:51 PM   #35
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I have the new TV in place, hinged on 1/2" plywood. Removing the plastic screw covers on the bottom of the white plastic cover AND the screws in the side cabinets allowed removal of the TV frame and white bottom cover as an assembly. The top strap had to be unbolted and the sticky pried off to remove it, and the sticky pads under the TV loosened. Then the original TV slid out the front.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:10 PM   #36
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Hi Everyone! First post and first question... I hope you folks don't mind.

I just bought a used 2003 Adventurer 35U. I knew full well I'd have to replace the televisions with LED-lit models. I know I'm putting 32" up front and 24 in back.

Today, we pulled the original TV's. It was not without incident. I could not get to the AC power plug for the front TV, so I just cut the wire (I split it and taped it so there's no danger of a short). I'm wondering how other folks got to the AC Power plug for the front TV (the rear TV came out really easily)? Same deal for the VCR.. I couldn't get to the power plug.

Thanks!

Scott
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:58 AM   #37
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TV replacement

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Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
Hi Everyone! First post and first question... I hope you folks don't mind.

I just bought a used 2003 Adventurer 35U. I knew full well I'd have to replace the televisions with LED-lit models. I know I'm putting 32" up front and 24 in back.

Today, we pulled the original TV's. It was not without incident. I could not get to the AC power plug for the front TV, so I just cut the wire (I split it and taped it so there's no danger of a short). I'm wondering how other folks got to the AC Power plug for the front TV (the rear TV came out really easily)? Same deal for the VCR.. I couldn't get to the power plug.

Thanks!

Scott
Scott.. please find the plug to your TV.. Ours went through a small hole in the left side of the TV box and into an outlet in the left side cabinet.
When I replaced my tube tv with a 26 inch Samsung LED, I put a power strip in that cabinet and plugged in the TV, a sound bar, and two DVD players into it. Picture of finished change over here:


Frame was hinged on the left with a piano hinge and attched on the right with a roller latch and velcro.
The back TV was a 24 inch LED just tilted into the cabinet, stand and all, and tilted a little to the left for viewing.
You can find wiring diagrams for your Winnie at Winnebago.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...57700187,d.aWM


Page 80 seems to show a receptacle for the TV in the upper back of the TV cabinet.

Good luck
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:47 AM   #38
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Scott.. please find the plug to your TV.. Ours went through a small hole in the left side of the TV box and into an outlet in the left side cabinet.
When I replaced my tube tv with a 26 inch Samsung LED, I put a power strip in that cabinet and plugged in the TV, a sound bar, and two DVD players into it. Picture of finished change over here:


Frame was hinged on the left with a piano hinge and attched on the right with a roller latch and velcro.
The back TV was a 24 inch LED just tilted into the cabinet, stand and all, and tilted a little to the left for viewing.
You can find wiring diagrams for your Winnie at Winnebago.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...57700187,d.aWM


Page 80 seems to show a receptacle for the TV in the upper back of the TV cabinet.

Good luck
Bil
Thanks for the reply!

My power chord goes through the original TV mounting platform then behind the right upper cabinet. I cannot reach around enough to find the plug...I will likely put a mirror behind the cabinet to be able to see it or simply wire a female plug onto the existing chord.

Wiring diagrams came with the motorhome. They state the TV is either plugged into the inverter or into an outlet.

I am also thinking of taking out the inverter permanently.

Scott
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:56 AM   #39
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Here's how I did my mounting bracket

I basically took suggestions here and in the video I found then adapted them to something that is way too strong for the application, but provides an extremely firm mount.

It is all built upon a 2x12 piece of wood cut to 25.5 inches long. The TV mount itself is a MorRyde TV1-021 Articulating Wall Mount from TVforMyRV | Flat Screen TVs, Antennas, Satellite TV, TV Brackets for RVs | RV TV. At the positions shown in the pictures below, it's a perfect fit for my 32" Samsung LED TV. I have test mounted the TV so I know it's perfect. I also installed a power strip that is plugged into the inverter's right (from the front) side plug (I have since decided to keep the inverter as it provides power to the bedroom TV which also being replaced).

The mount/wood/brackets weigh exactly 15 lbs more than the TV. I think this is a safe--it also saves approximately 15lbs over the standard CRT TV.






Head on... it looks crooked in this pictures, but it's not--it's just parallax.



Right side articulating. All nuts are Nylon locking nuts except the two outside nuts on the wood side of the lower brackets--I want to see if they'll vibrate loose.



Left side articulating. The top angle mounting brackets had to be cut because they were 3x3 holes wide. I used a Dremel that I use with my RC Helicopters to cut the bracket--it worked great.

I found out some interesting things... the "industrial velco" people say that is used to hold in the inverter is really plastic Scotch fasteners. I use these in some of my RC helicopters to hold lithium polymer batteries in place during flight (along with a strap). On my inverter, I found it was just wedged in place--the backing had not been removed from the scotch fasteners. Interesting stuff.

This is all in a "new to me" 2003 Winnebago Adventurer 35U.

Scott
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:00 PM   #40
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We have a 2006 38J. The TV was held in by a strap that went over the top front and was bolted thru the bottom from underneath. The strap was stuck on the TV and had to reach in with a thin metal strap to get the strap loose from the TV. Look for other bolts or screws towards the back. Made a door out of cabinet grade plywood, mounted it with a piano hinge, stained it to match. Mounted a flat screen on the front and installed a shelve inside made for a nice storage area.
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