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Old 01-16-2011, 03:20 PM   #1
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Good thing it's not 6 inches longer....

Finally tried to get the Adventurer 33V behind the gates in the side yard. We had at least 2" on the width, it fit under the power lines by 2 inches maybe and there is once inch (with it placed on an angle) left in front of it to close the gates. Geesh, it's big. Took about half an hour to get it in the first time with mirrors folded back. We had to watch an eave to the house, the gates, the lines and the hedges. We did it inches at a time but we got there.

Finally got up on shore power, everything is working! Got the new Carbon Monoxide monitor installed, flushed antifreeze but there is still a foaminess to the hot water. We thought we had it cleared out before we opened that line . Any suggestions? Hot water heater works, both TV's work, DVD works, and we are elated!
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:28 PM   #2
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Flush, flush & flush again & eventually the foaminess will go away. Antifreeze didn't get in the HWH tank by any chance did it? If it did, you have to drain & flush that out real good.

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Old 01-16-2011, 04:49 PM   #3
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Flush, flush & flush again & eventually the foaminess will go away. Antifreeze didn't get in the HWH tank by any chance did it? If it did, you have to drain & flush that out real good.

Lori-

It seems like it did, that's what's foaming. How do you drain the tank?
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:19 PM   #4
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Open the cover to the HW tank located on the outside of your RV. There will be a threaded plug you will need to unscrew. Once that is out, water or anything else in there that's above that plug will flow out. If there's stuff left in the bottom, you might need to get a fill tube you can attach to a hose to stick down in there to flush more stuff out.



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Old 01-16-2011, 05:34 PM   #5
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Open the cover to the HW tank located on the outside of your RV. There will be a threaded plug you will need to unscrew. Once that is out, water or anything else in there that's above that plug will flow out. If there's stuff left in the bottom, you might need to get a fill tube you can attach to a hose to stick down in there to flush more stuff out.



Lori-
Thank you very much, we have a tube like that.
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Old 01-16-2011, 05:58 PM   #6
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Barb we are so happy that things are working out well for you. Good luck and ENJOY.
I guess you can go south, but not too far south. LOL
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:07 PM   #7
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Barb we are so happy that things are working out well for you. Good luck and ENJOY.
I guess you can go south, but not too far south. LOL

Thanks FC, that one power board isn't lighting up though. Talk to you soon.
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:58 AM   #8
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It seems like it did, that's what's foaming. How do you drain the tank?
make sure that you turn off the electric water heater element before draining the tank or you will burn out the element quickly.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:28 AM   #9
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Watch out for the power lines. They will stretch in the heat. You might make it under the lines in the cold and then catch them in the heat next summer.
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:54 AM   #10
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Geesh! That all is so tight you need to watch everything exactly as you did this time. Do not take anything for granted. We tend to become complacent in our maneuvers after a period of time. (Please don't ask me how I know.)
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:26 AM   #11
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Check the operation of the microwave / convection oven. Make sure it runs longer then 59 seconds..
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:09 AM   #12
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Barb:

We have one of the same problems. There are no overhead wires or gates, but getting down the side of the garage is really tight. Our 96" wide class C was no problem, but the 102" Class A is.

The meter for the house natural gas is on that side of the garage, but we put a 6" steel post in to protect it when we had the driveway done. If I put the left-side wheels to about 4" from the edge of the pad, I clear the meter by about 6". I had to prune 8" off the garage roof overhang, and the rain gutter is now directly above the gas meter.

What I hadn't allowed for in the design of the mod was the height of the entry door on the RV. It hits the gutter and I can't open it wide enough to get out! Have to use the driver's door and step out into next-door neighbor's side yard.

Phase 2 of the roof mod is to put a small gable in line with the rig's house door so that the door will clear. I'll probably add a person-door through the garage wall so we can get to the RV from inside the garage.

At least, I can back out far enough to get the RV house door clear for loading, without the tail end of the RV sticking out into the street (just - by about 3"!). If the RV were any longer, we'd have a problem.

These projects go on for ever once you're into this lifestyle!
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:53 PM   #13
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Frank: Your last sentence says it all !

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Old 01-17-2011, 02:35 PM   #14
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Hi Barb,

Congratulations on getting your unit where you wanted it. It sure sounds like you took it slow, great!

As for the hot water heater.The plug is a plastic plug and is located on the bottom of unit after you opened the black panel. In order to get all the water out after you remove the plug pull the lever on the pressure relief valve and what ever you do don't stand in front of it. Make sure after all the water/ antifreeze is out that you push the lever back.

After checking with a friend of mine your intellict panel will not light up on 50 amps but should if you use 30 amp shore power. Since your RV is wired for 50 amps it may not indicate anything but I don't know for sure and like I said before to you give Winnebago a call and they will tell you anything you need to know and they are good about answering questions. My coach is wired for 30 Amp and my panel shows amperage being used whether on Gen or 30 amps.

Enjoy and now you can check everything out and when all else fails read the manual.

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Old 01-17-2011, 04:49 PM   #15
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Well, we had the 50 amp adapted down to 20 amp at the house. Nothing shows. We will camp in two weeks at a multiple choice set up and see what happens. No biggie. At least the microwave goes for more than the 59 second point I was warned about.

I turned the electric heater on today and blew the house breaker.
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:58 PM   #16
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Our MH is a 30-amp set-up. At present, it's just plugged into an outside 15A socket, because very little inside is running. We're lucky that, in the breaker box, there's one breaker that powers a single socket in the guest bedroom which the builder had designated as a computer room.

I'm going to replace the breaker with a 30A, then run a dedicated circuit to an RV 30A socket outside. Luckily, a neighbor is a licensed electrician (retired) and he'll check over my installation and actually hook up the wires in the box and put the breaker in the slot occupied by the 20A one.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:11 PM   #17
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Yep! Them tha' 'lectic WH's can draw up to 25 amps or more.

Don't worry about blowing the circuit breaker. That is what they are for. Eventually you will get to know what you can turn on when connected to 20 amp. When I hooked up that way I used to be able to run one AC in the 5er. If DW plugged in the vacuum, poof went the breaker. If I the AC was on and I turned on the overhead ceiling fan, poof went the breaker. I was just happy that it would run the AC while we were loading. If you have propane heater, try it as it runs off 12 volts when on propane.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #18
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Have you attempted to back it out yet?

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Old 01-19-2011, 05:44 PM   #19
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Have you attempted to back it out yet?

Kerry

Thank goodness he backed it in. He's a good driver. We'll git 'r done!
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:54 PM   #20
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Yep! Them tha' 'lectic WH's can draw up to 25 amps or more.

Don't worry about blowing the circuit breaker. That is what they are for. Eventually you will get to know what you can turn on when connected to 20 amp. When I hooked up that way I used to be able to run one AC in the 5er. If DW plugged in the vacuum, poof went the breaker. If I the AC was on and I turned on the overhead ceiling fan, poof went the breaker. I was just happy that it would run the AC while we were loading. If you have propane heater, try it as it runs off 12 volts when on propane.

The electric heat is ducted and comes out the ceiling vents but also one floor vent in the bedroom. Is that normal??
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