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Old 04-20-2018, 09:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Tom-NC View Post
Humble Bob,

Have you checked your GCVW on your coach? I think that 5000 lb toad is too much for an 18K coach. I have a 22K chassis and can only pull 4000 lbs making my GCVW 26K.

I would check it for sure.
I have a 2006 29r and my GCVW is 26 K.
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:58 PM   #22
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HI,

The last 2 replies say that the Vista can tow 26K lbs. Is that what is listed on the plate that came with the motor home?

I cannot believe that a 18K chassis can pull 26K when a 22K chassis can only pull 26K. There is something wrong with this picture. You also have to consider the weight of your personal stuff like pots and pans, etc and water, fuel.and propane.

Double check the plate on the RV and then weigh the coach loaded with 2 people in it.
Thank you.



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Old 04-22-2018, 05:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom-NC View Post
HI,

The last 2 replies say that the Vista can tow 26K lbs. Is that what is listed on the plate that came with the motor home?

I cannot believe that a 18K chassis can pull 26K when a 22K chassis can only pull 26K. There is something wrong with this picture. You also have to consider the weight of your personal stuff like pots and pans, etc and water, fuel.and propane.

Double check the plate on the RV and then weigh the coach loaded with 2 people in it.
Thank you.



.
Nope - the posts indicate GCVW - That's GVW (18k or 22k) plus the towed vehicle weight would be the GCVW. The 18 or 22k GVW is a loaded vehicle. The numbers are correct.
It is my belief that the 22k chassis has a GCVW of 26k to keep it under the commercial weight rating for drivers licenses in most states.

Here's Ford's Chart.

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Old 04-22-2018, 05:14 PM   #24
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[QUOTE=and rear with the plain CHF and found that the MH handles great when a big rig goes by. [/QUOTE]

I tried doing the rear of ours today and couldn't get the bolt/bracket out of the bushing on the lower end of the rod, either side. I tried using a small pry bar but didn't want to damage anything. It was seized tight, wouldn't even rotate on the bolt. Is there something I'm missing to do the CHF on the rear, or do I just need a bigger pry bar ?

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Old 04-23-2018, 05:17 AM   #25
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Bigger bar or spray with penetrating oil to get the bolt loose. I would want the bolt loosened.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:08 AM   #26
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Discovered why the bushing wouldn't turn on the bolt. Removed both rods and with just a little tap they came loose. There is just a little bit of the knurling on the bolt into the metal part of the bushing. Got er done...
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:35 PM   #27
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Maybe the PIC is misleading, but it looks like your rubber/poly bushing(s) are bad. You can get new poly bushings off ebay - maybe worth doing them all, the swaybar as well.
Check out ebay seller - skuterdude. If you have rubeer, the poly bushings will be an improvement.

Maybe you need to add another flat washer there to get away from that "spline".
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Old 04-23-2018, 01:04 PM   #28
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The bushings are fine, its only got 10K miles on it, 2018. The little nick is from me trying to pry it off yesterday.
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:21 AM   #29
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Just some advice from someone who's been there, even though your chassis is relatively new. Replace the rubber with poly. Do the fronts, as well. There are very inexpensive online. The rubber has "memory" and will deteriorate causing the busing to be loose. The poly lasts forever. Regardless, be sure to use some marine grease when you reassemble the bolt through the bushing.
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Old 04-25-2018, 04:41 PM   #30
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Is this your first motorhome? Most likely 90% of your problems can be "cured" by some free steps. It seems to be the nature of new motorhome drivers to want to fix the suspension since something must be wrong with it as the big beast doesn't drive like the family van. However, a few things can help and driver experience can help a whole lot more.

So, start with these:

1. Weigh the coach load with your stuff and people you plan to haul at a CAT scale (common at truck stops and only $10-12). The next morning, take those weight numbers and your tire tables from the tire manufacturer and inflate the tires to the correct pressures. If you need a procedure of how to do this properly, let someone know.

2. Have your alignment checked. A commercial Ford dealer can either do this or send you to someone who can.

3. Drive the coach but do two things different than you are now. a) your aiming point for your eyes is now 1/4 mile ahead of you; b) lock your elbows against the arm rests and only steer with your wrists. Practice driving like this for 3-4000 miles.

You are driving a giant kite and wind, passing trucks, even smaller box trucks will push you around. The trick is not overreacting to these pushes. Small movements of the wheel can keep you in line and after enough practice, driving the big beast will become normal.

Get the miles in and then evaluate whether or not you need additional suspension improvements. Making these adjustment before you really know what you are driving is just like chasing your tail.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:05 PM   #31
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3. b) lock your elbows against the arm rests and only steer with your wrists. Practice driving like this for 3-4000 miles.
Very true. This is our first motor home and first time out it took a few hundred miles to figure that out. We towed for thirty plus years before this one so tires, weights, and alignments are a given.

Our coach will track straight as an arrow on flat road with no wind, steering wheel held perfectly still and in proper position. Itís pretty much impossible for me to hold the wheel still without my elbows on the armrests. The slightest movement of the wheel will begin the compensation steering and with your arms hanging free it doesn't stop. We just finished a 7k mile trip and it really was no big deal averaging 350 to 450 miles a day driving elbows on the rests. There is, however that thing that happens when a truck passes and when the wind blows. Hopefully I can reduce some of that action,, taking it one step at a time with the free and easy stuff before throwing money at it.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:34 AM   #32
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Very true. This is our first motor home and first time out it took a few hundred miles to figure that out. We towed for thirty plus years before this one so tires, weights, and alignments are a given.

Our coach will track straight as an arrow on flat road with no wind, steering wheel held perfectly still and in proper position. Itís pretty much impossible for me to hold the wheel still without my elbows on the armrests. The slightest movement of the wheel will begin the compensation steering and with your arms hanging free it doesn't stop. We just finished a 7k mile trip and it really was no big deal averaging 350 to 450 miles a day driving elbows on the rests. There is, however that thing that happens when a truck passes and when the wind blows. Hopefully I can reduce some of that action,, taking it one step at a time with the free and easy stuff before throwing money at it.
if you are experiencing a control situation when being passed by large trucks, consider starting with a rear track bar. Go from there.
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:54 AM   #33
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Rear track bar mitigated the blowing. Still have some but much less. We jumped though all the hoops until we had this done..................
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:17 PM   #34
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Talking

Man I wish I would have read this thread when I had first bought my RV (2013 Winnebago Vista 30T) on a Ford F53 chassis. I did the CHF mod on both front and rear sway bars, man what a difference. Really, it even impressed the wife, and that ain't easy. When ever the RV would get to rocking side to side she gets upset, passing tractor trailers, windy days or bad roads. I explained to her what I had done and what I was hoping to notice. 3 day trip, about 600 miles in all, nice day, windy day, good road, bad road, but not much rocking side to side. Making turns, pulling into gas stations or rest stop for dog breaks, we just didn't have that big rocking side to side like before the CHF mod. On the windy day I did notice the push from the gusts of wind (stead 20 mph with gusts of 30 to 35 mph) and was still impressed with CHF, I still would like to add poly bushings on sway bars and links and steering damper, not sure which one to go with (Roadmaster, or Blue Ox) any input would be helpful again. Thanks to all on this thread.
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