1998 Winnebago Minnie 32WM Restoration - Page 5

BarryLS · 06-21-2022, 12:13 PM

Thanks Bob. Hadn't even thought of that. Makes me wonder if mine was originally white? I assumed the were a yellow tint to start with, but that's because it is so yellow. Same for the shower faucet piece. Presently I'm not thinking I'll reuse that but if I can get it white maybe I will.

I'm not real concerned about the shower anyway. For my primary use I'd probably use the showers available on site like I always have. But I have to fix the rot even if the roof repair is just temporary.

Creativepart, thanks for the update. I try to make sure I take some pics with the proper camera orientation for this thread.

I do like restoring old things and hope that some of it rubs off on someone else interested in doing the same. It's always easier when you can see that somebody else has done it. What is getting done now is really no different than working on a house, just some different construction methods.

BarryLS · 06-21-2022, 12:51 PM

So, that whitening got me wondering - How white were my parts originally?

Turns out they were very, very white

A couple pics from the unexposed to UVF faucet cover piece showing the original color.

So, I'll give that a try and save some $$$

Thanks Bob!

BobC · 06-21-2022, 01:17 PM

I'll have to check mine out but once I start, there's a lot of plastic, shower, sink, etc. I took a look at the brochure and they all look pretty white. I'm not sure about the trim around the windshield.

I think I'll wait and see how your's turns out.

BarryLS · 06-21-2022, 01:35 PM

Just looking, my bathroom sink is also very yellow, not as much as the shower. I thought I would just replace it with a stainless one though, probably still will when I get to that.

BarryLS · 06-21-2022, 02:14 PM

OK, ordered some of the hair dye

Maybe this weekend we'll see the result. The good thing is I can just set the parts in the sun since they are no longer attached.

BarryLS · 06-23-2022, 10:11 PM

Some good news -

I decided it was time to get AC power on and see what works. I have an adapter for the 30 amp RV connector and ran my 100 ft (12 gauge) cord out to the motor home this afternoon. According to the PO, the AC and fridge both work, but I never actually have tested either. The pair of deep cycle 12v batteries were both bad and I took them out and have not replaced them yet. For light I have used my battery devices or some of my LED work lights plugged into the cord.

So, first thing, once plugged in I have DC power on the internal lights. I had previously purchased LED bulbs for those so I changed them all out and most are working. I have a couple that are not functioning, probably corroded switches or lamp contacts. I'll get to those later.

I then checked my incoming voltage with nothing powered on and got right at the expected 120vac. I then flipped on the breaker for the AC, set the thermostat for cold as heck, and turned the thermostat switch to on. I was mildly shocked to discover it actually works

Started getting cold pretty quick and I checked my voltage and it had dropped to about 112, so it would be OK to run the AC on it's own. Couldn't run but a couple minutes as the roof is covered with a tarp for now.

Next up, does the refrigerator work? Flipped that breaker on and turned it on and it seems to be working OK. The freezer section got very cold after an hour, the fridge is cooling down but wasn't as cold as you would like. It was 95 plus in the MH this afternoon so I expect the fridge might be a bit slow. Anyway, I'd guess if the freezer works the fridge should come along as well. I turned it off for tonight as I don't want to wake to MH bonfire...

Nice to know I have both cold creators working.

I am planning to run an underground line for the 30amp service soon. I'll probably go ahead and size for 50 amp in case I decide to go for a diesel pusher someday.

BarryLS · 06-26-2022, 03:18 PM

I started testing the Norcold refrigerator to see what I have. It is a model 9162 and I downloaded the operating manual for it. I also bought a remote temperature monitor so I could check the progress without opening the doors.

Basically, after 24+ hours, running on 120VAC, the freezer is 10 degree's F, better than I expected. It's been opened briefly a couple times. The refrigerator is not dropping like I would expect. It is at 55 and will go way up when opened.

I have made sure the cooling chimney is obstruction free. I have also disconnected the thermistor to make sure it's not the problem. The thermostat setting is all the way to the highest position. DC voltage is fine.

I'm at a loss as to why the freezer is working well but the fridge poorly. I'll start a thread over in the heating and cooling section...

**creativepart** · 06-26-2022, 03:20 PM

This is not an uncommon issue:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...but+not+fridge

BarryLS · 06-26-2022, 03:31 PM

Thanks for that.

However, I can find nothing that indicates what the problem could be when everything tests OK. If the freezer didn't get cold I could understand it...

BobC · 06-26-2022, 04:11 PM

You mentioned the operating manual but you really need the service manual. The service manual has an extensive troubleshooting section in it:

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...rts-Manual.pdf

BarryLS · 06-26-2022, 07:34 PM

Thanks Bob. Richard provided the link over in the other thread:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ch-364338.html

The service manual does seem quite good but still no answer. As Richard pointed out, I need to test the blocking issue when I turn it back on.

I'm real happy with 10 in the freezer, maybe I just need to drill a connecting hole from that compartment to the refrigerator below...

BarryLS · 06-28-2022, 07:51 PM

This weekend I may get around to fiddling with the Onan generator. The PO told me it cranked but wouldn't start. And it does crank, but I've only just turned it over a few seconds several times just so the cylinder isn't sitting in the same place all the time.

So, my plan - I assume it's like just about every other small engine that sits and the carb is clogged up with gelled gasoline and trash, plus corroded. I figure on changing the oil first, then pour a bit of seafoam in the spark plug hole and crank it over a for 10-15 seconds just to move the seafoam around the rings, etc. Then I'll replace the spark plug and test for spark. Now, back to the carb - I see 8 gazillion offerings on Amazon for new carbs. I purchased one for my briggs 18hp lawn mower and it works fine. So now it's which one? Anyone have a recommendation? Picture of the model number shown.

**creativepart** · 06-29-2022, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryLS

I see 8 gazillion offerings on Amazon for new carbs. I purchased one for my briggs 18hp lawn mower and it works fine. So now it's which one? Anyone have a recommendation? Picture of the model number shown.

The word I hear at this and other websites isn’t encouraging. Seems Onan is way back ordered on carbs and the ones on Amazon are very poor and unreliable. As in they don’t work well if at all.

I don’t personally have any experience with this, I’ve just seen others posting this. Be sure to check on www.irv2.com. It’s much larger and would have a lot more info on Onan carb replacements.

BarryLS · 06-29-2022, 08:59 AM

Thanks Creativepart.

At the price it can easily be a throwaway. Some are better than others and I think I identified a decent one. Went ahead and ordered it. If nothing else I can use it to rebuild the existing OEM carb. If I'm lucky it will be repairable. Sometimes the corrosion is so bad it's not possible.

I've used one on my craftsman tractor with good results. I want one on hand so that I can go through my steps without issue. So, we'll see. I'll report back with the results.

BarryLS · 06-30-2022, 02:53 PM

Carb arrived. It is a model listed for the generator. About 1/8th the price of an OEM carb.

Lots of poor reviews about these cheaper carbs, but this particular one seems better than some of the others. I used one on my lawn tractor with good results and it's been on there 2+ years now.

BobC · 06-30-2022, 06:00 PM

If it works OK, please post the details. Good luck.

BarryLS · 06-30-2022, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

If it works OK, please post the details. Good luck.

I'll do that. Tight fit, looks like changing will not be any fun...

BarryLS · 07-09-2022, 10:38 PM

"Tight fit, looks like changing will not be any fun..."

That was an understatement. The two bolts that hold the carb on cannot be seen as they are inside the air filter housing that cannot be removed with the unit in place. I got them out but then stopped as the carb is sandwiched and I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the control rods (throttle, choke) without bending them. So I dropped if for the time being and I'll get back to that this week.

BarryLS · 07-09-2022, 10:46 PM

A bit more done in the shower area. Since I have decided not to replace the entire roof at one time, I am fixing the roof above the shower. Today I squirted construction adhesive in the areas of delamination and then used jacks to press it all together. Once that is dry I can proceed to making a new plywood interior roof section and a new back wall. I'll cover the back wall with fiberglass cloth and epoxy to make it all waterproof.

3rd pic is the new control valve and shower nozzle, both recommended and tested in this forum

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...et-361751.html

BarryLS · 07-09-2022, 11:06 PM

I decided to do a little testing regarding my cabinets throughout the coach. This year and model Winnebago has the absolute worst cabinet doors and drawer fronts ever designed. I think the folly of this was discovered pretty quickly and changes were made. What I have is vinyl covered drawer fronts and doors. The vinyl is ugly and peels at all the junctions. I could just replace all these with new, something I can do for a pretty reasonable price due to the oldest son buying this stuff by the tractor trailer truckload. I figured it up for the lowest cost doors/drawers and it is right around $400. Add to that the new hinges and pulls (I can get those free) and fixing what I have is probably crazy.

Of course by now anyone reading realizes I'm crazy, so repair I will.

First Picture is a sample of the corner vinyl issue. This is actually one of the better ones

I decided I would try squirting in gel type super glue and then place a piece of wax paper over it and a flat piece of wood and then clamp it to press the vinyl flat. Worked even better than I thought. Just clamp about a minute and move to the next corner. For the curved area I just squirt the glue in and press it down with my finger and waxed paper. Picture 2 shows the result.

I then used Zinnser shellac to prime it. I've never used the shellac product and it drys really fast. I messed it up several times dragging the brush back over an area almost dry. I just sanded it a bit and recoated. I think I have that process down now.

After that I painted the panel with Sherwin Williams "Clary Sage". I used a brush, which is required for the curved parts but I may try rolling the flat sections next time. Anyway, not bad for the first time around. I'll probably sand this one lightly and recoat.

Still, not really cheap given the Zinnser is $75 and the SW paint is almost $60 a gallon. However, I bought the Zinnser to prime the walls and ceiling anyway and maybe a quart will go to the cabinets. Only the bedroom and maybe the bathroom will get the sage color. I have white paint for the kitchen and slideout storage cabinets.

Anyway, I like that I'm salvaging what was there even though it's more work.

I'll also note that the result looks better in person than in the picture.