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Old 06-21-2022, 12:13 PM   #81
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Thanks Bob. Hadn't even thought of that. Makes me wonder if mine was originally white? I assumed the were a yellow tint to start with, but that's because it is so yellow. Same for the shower faucet piece. Presently I'm not thinking I'll reuse that but if I can get it white maybe I will.

I'm not real concerned about the shower anyway. For my primary use I'd probably use the showers available on site like I always have. But I have to fix the rot even if the roof repair is just temporary.

Creativepart, thanks for the update. I try to make sure I take some pics with the proper camera orientation for this thread.

I do like restoring old things and hope that some of it rubs off on someone else interested in doing the same. It's always easier when you can see that somebody else has done it. What is getting done now is really no different than working on a house, just some different construction methods.
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Old 06-21-2022, 12:51 PM   #82
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So, that whitening got me wondering - How white were my parts originally?

Turns out they were very, very white A couple pics from the unexposed to UVF faucet cover piece showing the original color.

So, I'll give that a try and save some $$$

Thanks Bob!
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:17 PM   #83
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I'll have to check mine out but once I start, there's a lot of plastic, shower, sink, etc. I took a look at the brochure and they all look pretty white. I'm not sure about the trim around the windshield.

I think I'll wait and see how your's turns out.
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:35 PM   #84
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Just looking, my bathroom sink is also very yellow, not as much as the shower. I thought I would just replace it with a stainless one though, probably still will when I get to that.
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Old 06-21-2022, 02:14 PM   #85
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OK, ordered some of the hair dye
Maybe this weekend we'll see the result. The good thing is I can just set the parts in the sun since they are no longer attached.
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Old 06-23-2022, 10:11 PM   #86
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Some good news -

I decided it was time to get AC power on and see what works. I have an adapter for the 30 amp RV connector and ran my 100 ft (12 gauge) cord out to the motor home this afternoon. According to the PO, the AC and fridge both work, but I never actually have tested either. The pair of deep cycle 12v batteries were both bad and I took them out and have not replaced them yet. For light I have used my battery devices or some of my LED work lights plugged into the cord.

So, first thing, once plugged in I have DC power on the internal lights. I had previously purchased LED bulbs for those so I changed them all out and most are working. I have a couple that are not functioning, probably corroded switches or lamp contacts. I'll get to those later.

I then checked my incoming voltage with nothing powered on and got right at the expected 120vac. I then flipped on the breaker for the AC, set the thermostat for cold as heck, and turned the thermostat switch to on. I was mildly shocked to discover it actually works Started getting cold pretty quick and I checked my voltage and it had dropped to about 112, so it would be OK to run the AC on it's own. Couldn't run but a couple minutes as the roof is covered with a tarp for now.

Next up, does the refrigerator work? Flipped that breaker on and turned it on and it seems to be working OK. The freezer section got very cold after an hour, the fridge is cooling down but wasn't as cold as you would like. It was 95 plus in the MH this afternoon so I expect the fridge might be a bit slow. Anyway, I'd guess if the freezer works the fridge should come along as well. I turned it off for tonight as I don't want to wake to MH bonfire...

Nice to know I have both cold creators working.

I am planning to run an underground line for the 30amp service soon. I'll probably go ahead and size for 50 amp in case I decide to go for a diesel pusher someday.
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:18 PM   #87
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I started testing the Norcold refrigerator to see what I have. It is a model 9162 and I downloaded the operating manual for it. I also bought a remote temperature monitor so I could check the progress without opening the doors.

Basically, after 24+ hours, running on 120VAC, the freezer is 10 degree's F, better than I expected. It's been opened briefly a couple times. The refrigerator is not dropping like I would expect. It is at 55 and will go way up when opened.

I have made sure the cooling chimney is obstruction free. I have also disconnected the thermistor to make sure it's not the problem. The thermostat setting is all the way to the highest position. DC voltage is fine.

I'm at a loss as to why the freezer is working well but the fridge poorly. I'll start a thread over in the heating and cooling section...
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:20 PM   #88
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This is not an uncommon issue:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...but+not+fridge
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Old 06-26-2022, 03:31 PM   #89
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Thanks for that.

However, I can find nothing that indicates what the problem could be when everything tests OK. If the freezer didn't get cold I could understand it...
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Old 06-26-2022, 04:11 PM   #90
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You mentioned the operating manual but you really need the service manual. The service manual has an extensive troubleshooting section in it:

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...rts-Manual.pdf
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Old 06-26-2022, 07:34 PM   #91
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Thanks Bob. Richard provided the link over in the other thread:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ch-364338.html

The service manual does seem quite good but still no answer. As Richard pointed out, I need to test the blocking issue when I turn it back on.

I'm real happy with 10 in the freezer, maybe I just need to drill a connecting hole from that compartment to the refrigerator below...
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Old Yesterday, 07:51 PM   #92
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This weekend I may get around to fiddling with the Onan generator. The PO told me it cranked but wouldn't start. And it does crank, but I've only just turned it over a few seconds several times just so the cylinder isn't sitting in the same place all the time.

So, my plan - I assume it's like just about every other small engine that sits and the carb is clogged up with gelled gasoline and trash, plus corroded. I figure on changing the oil first, then pour a bit of seafoam in the spark plug hole and crank it over a for 10-15 seconds just to move the seafoam around the rings, etc. Then I'll replace the spark plug and test for spark. Now, back to the carb - I see 8 gazillion offerings on Amazon for new carbs. I purchased one for my briggs 18hp lawn mower and it works fine. So now it's which one? Anyone have a recommendation? Picture of the model number shown.
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