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Old 10-26-2020, 09:23 PM   #1
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Winnie “Hike”-ers Site

Hello All
Since getting my 172BH, I have had a difficult time finding any posts on the Hike series. I guess they are still fairly new and have had limited distribution.

We have loved our Hike. We already towed it about 4000 miles and have spent about 20 nights in it so far.

I look forward to adding solar, however my most recent project was adding a second battery (I’ll post pics)

Please use this spot for questions, photos, and other comments on the Hike Series
Thanks
Matt
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:13 PM   #2
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Any Hike-era out there? How are you liking it?
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:45 PM   #3
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Hike 17S

Hi
We just got our Hike 17S 2021 in mid Nov we haven't had time to enjoy it yet but so far we love it very well built and now a can take my kayak and bike with us when we go. Cal. shut down the park we were headed for. So have to wait for shake down voyage. Will be installing solar soon.
Woof
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:58 PM   #4
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Awesome to hear. I spent hours researching solar and in the end went with a 100 watt Renogy suitcase to charge dual 88-amp AGM batteries. I will give that a shot for short trips to tune what I really need. Enjoy!
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:17 PM   #5
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Hay Matty

We got our 171DB in the fall. Got about about 12 nights before it dropped below freezing here. Its now away for the winter. Maiden voyage was with no hookups and we drained the battery completely over 2 nights. Now have a 200ah battery in the garage waiting for spring and a Renogy 200w solar suitcase.
The sink drain came apart on the third trip as they hadn’t used any of the plumbers glue on the joints. A bit annoying but an easy fix.
Trying to figure out wiring a dedicated plug off my new inverter. Spring projects

Would be great to see more Hike users story's and set ups

Cheers

Tim
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:26 PM   #6
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Hey there Tim
We had same with kitchen drain in second trip. It was totally loose and made a small mess.

I got 2 batteries at Costco to get 200Amps and have been testing that out in driveway

I also went with a suitcase renogy. Haven’t really used it yet

Please keep me posted on inverter to dedicated outlet, I think I am going to do the same. For my floor plan, the outlet under the dinette by the heater seems easiest as all the wiring is more accessible. What is your strategy for doing this?

Thanks
Matt
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Old 01-20-2021, 06:20 AM   #7
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Matt

We have the rear dinette and mid bathroom. After fixing the plumbing I think I can get from the rear under-bed storage, under the sink and to the fuse panel/ TV / switch area fairly easily. I was planning for a dedicated plug that runs off the 2000w inverter somewhere near/behind he TV. I wont be able to work on this till we get it out of storage in the spring. I will post more once I get working on it. I also got a proper battery monitor. The one it comes with measures in bananas......

Also ours is a 2020 so it doesn’t have the rear 2” receiver for the bikes. I am going to add that as well

Cheers

Tim
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Old 02-06-2021, 12:26 PM   #8
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Howdy!

A similar question- solar or battery?

Long story-- I got a Hike 170S back in August and now have 5,000 miles on it, plus a week of desert camping when the temps dropped at night to 21-34 degrees. Didn't have a problem.

I'm looking to dry camp, where we leave the camper while doing a three day backpack hike. I'd like to keep the refrigerator on so that we can have a bit of fresh food waiting for us. I know the propane fridge still needs electricity- so am I better off getting a second battery or should I look at solar?

Thank you all for advice!
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:21 PM   #9
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Gloria

First, I am no expert.

My Hike battery is only 80ah. We did a 3day 2 night trip last year and drained it enough that the slide wouldn’t come in. Had to boost it from the truck.

I now have a 200ah battery which I think would cover you but you should find out what the fridge draws and you could do some math and figure it out.

My assumption is that either 220ah battery or solar would cover you for three days with only the fridge running on propane. Possibly the fully charged stock battery?

Tim
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Old 02-06-2021, 09:09 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by HikeGloria View Post
I'm looking to dry camp, where we leave the camper while doing a three day backpack hike. I'd like to keep the refrigerator on so that we can have a bit of fresh food waiting for us. I know the propane fridge still needs electricity- so am I better off getting a second battery or should I look at solar?
The refrigeration uses very little 12V power when it's on LP.

We dry camped at Yellowstone two years ago in our Micro Mini 1705RD for three days on the stock battery with no problems. We were gone during the day and of course when we returned we had the lights on while getting ready for bed and reading a bit. No battery problems. The beer in the fridge stayed nice and cold.
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Old 02-21-2021, 04:24 PM   #11
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Hi everybody, been trying to find if my Hike 170s refer runs off of DC only mode, or only shore power or propane? I must be missing something in the manuals.
Anybody know, or where i can find it in the manuals?
Thanks
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Old 03-09-2021, 01:30 PM   #12
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Hi everyone,

As for adding solar or a 2nd battery, why not do both?

We bought our 170S last fall, and we only did a one night trip without shore power, and a few nights with shore power. I had the dealer add a second battery, and I'm adding the solar right now. I bought the 190 Watt Go Power system, and the trailer is pre-wired for solar (wiring already installed up to the roof, and to the battery compartment). I'm planning on connecting an inverter to the outlet below the table, since the wiring is already visible in the storage compartment in front.

Dyerdog, my understanding is that the refrigerator can run off propane or shore power, but I assume that it takes some amount of DC power when in propane mode.
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Old 03-10-2021, 09:32 AM   #13
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Thanks for answering j-dawg. I didn't quite ask that correctly, I was trying to see if I can run on DC only. The roll cage allows me to bring alot of solar panels, so was just wondering if i could run on DC only?
Woof
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Old 03-10-2021, 01:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Dyerdog View Post
Thanks for answering j-dawg. I didn't quite ask that correctly, I was trying to see if I can run on DC only. The roll cage allows me to bring alot of solar panels, so was just wondering if i could run on DC only?
Woof
I believe it's "duel fuel" only - as in AC and Propane. There are RV fridges on the market that run on 110v/12v/Propane. But really that wouldn't be much of a help if you had one.

You have to understand how an RV Fridge - which is a gas absorption fridge - works.

It uses a heat source to boil a refrigerant into a gas which rises up through a series of tubes in the back of your fridge. When that refrigerant cools back into a liquid that process produces cold as it changes from a gas to a liquid.

The heating part can be accomplished with a flame (propane) or with electricity (110v). Sure, 12v could also be used for heating but heating anything with electricity uses a ton of power as it's electrical resistance that causes the heating.

With 110v shore power or generator you have pretty much unlimited amounts of electricity. But with 12v you're restricted to what you can store in your battery(ies). Which isn't all that much. You really can't carry enough battery storage to power your fridge efficiently.

This is why you want to use Propane (easy to carry and easy to replace) or Shore Power (unlimited) to operate your fridge NOT 12v.
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Old 03-17-2021, 05:36 PM   #15
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Hi everybody new question, just finished shake down cruise and checked water heater before leaving the house. Got to park and setup, water heater still working on electrical.(i think) The next day it stopped working check the gas and it would not start. Called Winni direct told me to take it in to service dept. Just wondering if this might be a quick fix thingy that i can take care of, service dept. is 6 weeks backed up. Anybody have this happen to them?
Thanks
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Old 03-18-2021, 05:44 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dyerdog View Post
Hi everybody new question, just finished shake down cruise and checked water heater before leaving the house. Got to park and setup, water heater still working on electrical.(i think) The next day it stopped working check the gas and it would not start. Called Winni direct told me to take it in to service dept. Just wondering if this might be a quick fix thingy that i can take care of, service dept. is 6 weeks backed up. Anybody have this happen to them?
Thanks
First check to make sure the wh bypass valves are not in the off position. Then, with your water pump on, open the wh pressure relief valve on the outside of the trailer to make sure there is water moving through the wh. The wh has an automatic shut off that will activate if there’s insufficient water getting through the wh inlet valve. Just saying this because when de-winterizing, I forgot these steps, and got howled at by TGW (the great wife) for not having hot water.
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:20 AM   #17
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The Hike is a new model towable and I have limited knowledge of this model. IF it has an Atwood (Dometic) water heater it's also possible that the Thermal Cutoff "fuse" has blown. It's a small resistor looking device in a 4" section of clear plastic tubing.

This device is generally there to prevent propane flare ups. Once it reaches over temp it "blows" and will turn off both the electric and the propane functions. It's easy to replace and easy to bypass.

If neither the electric nor the propane will work at all, you can test the "fuse" by bypassing it and seeing if the WH will light via propane. If it does, then the fuse has blown. You can purchase another at most any RV supply store for a few dollars. OR, if you have shore power available you can bypass it and run only on electric. Don't run on Propane with it bypassed in case there really is a propane flame problem.

Sometimes insects will build a nest in the burner flue and when operating on Propane the exhaust gas is blocked or slowed and hot air can be fed back to the front of the WH and this is what can make the thermal cutoff blow.

Here's what it looks like. You'll see it between your control panel and the TStat on the front of your WH when the access panel is raised.

IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING OTHER THAN AN ATWOOD HEATER THIS DOESN'T APPLY.
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Old 03-23-2021, 11:42 AM   #18
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Winnebago Hike 171 DB bypass valve question

Picked up our Winnebago Hike 171 DB here in the Great White North (just West of Toronto). Planning to de-winterize it in two weeks. I was able to remove the plywood directly above the furnace/water tank - seat base for the dinette cushion. I can see the tank with two valves in off position, since it's still winterized. Is there a bypass valve that needs to be opened first. Couldn't see any photos on-line. Thanks !
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:29 PM   #19
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Picking up my new 171DB on April 10th! Can't wait though it's 12 hour drive round trip! Question about vehicles others are using to tow and if they went with a Anti-Sway hitch kit or not ? My vehicle has a max tow capacity of 7500 lbs and I've heard that if you are above 50% of a vehicles max tow capacity an anti-sway hitch kit is a good idea!
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Old 04-04-2021, 06:23 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dbjohnso86 View Post
Picking up my new 171DB on April 10th! Can't wait though it's 12 hour drive round trip! Question about vehicles others are using to tow and if they went with a Anti-Sway hitch kit or not ? My vehicle has a max tow capacity of 7500 lbs and I've heard that if you are above 50% of a vehicles max tow capacity an anti-sway hitch kit is a good idea!
Congrats on your purchase!

You're going to get a lot of different replies on this topic. I'll give you my one minute, 2 cent opinion for what it's worth.

There are a lot of variables involved to tow safely, not just capacity. Tongue weight, total weight (GVWR), payload, etc... Full size or mid-size vehicle? Are you running with Type E (10 ply) tires? Do you have a brake controller?

Curt has a pretty good FYI
https://www.curtmfg.com/towing-capacity

Personally, I've chosen not to install one as I plan to go off the beaten path. I've carefully considered and and have adhered to all of the recommended weights, capacities and configurations. I've taken it to CAT scales multiple times to tweak distribution and loads. I do not use a cargo carrier and do not exceed speed limits. My rig is level and tows easy.

Note that this is my situation and is in no way is a recommendation. You need to do what is best for you.

Here's the towing forum if you care to research here.
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/f258/

Good luck!
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