Solar Panels

jpellegr · 11-05-2018, 05:01 PM

Says our 30RLSS is prepted for Solar. What do I need to buy to use? Where did you buy?

Mike Owens · 11-06-2018, 08:12 AM

I used Amazon to purchase a zamp 30 controller and renology 160w panels (2). Got z brackets as well than ordered the factory specified roof sealant from winnebago parts.

BobC · 11-06-2018, 10:56 AM

First of all, don't get tied up in knots about one brand vs. another. IMHO, solar panels have become a commodity and most major brands are fine. Although there are ways to use the higher voltage residential style panels with some advantages, it's simpler if you stick with the lower voltage, RV style panels. Steer away from left-over residential panels on Craigslist, you can't be sure of their condition or quality.

Also, make sure you understand the capacity of your pre-wired solar capacity and don't overload it. The main variable will be wire gauge.

Check out Home Depot online. They have a good range of products at good prices with free shipping.

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electric...s/N-5yc1vZcdrk

Make sure you buy monocrystalline panels. I bought two of these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-So...W-US/301024442

In addition to the panels, you'll need a controller. There are two basic types PWM and the newer MPPT which are more efficient but more expensive. It's kind of like the Diesel vs gas debate as to what to buy so do some reading. IMHO the increase efficiency isn't that significant for the size systems we're dealing with. I went with this controller because I've had good experience with the brand and wanted two-bank controller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting- 3m VHB tape is becoming a common way of mounting without screws. You can make your own mounting brackets from aluminum angle "iron" or buy ready-made brackets like this:

https://rvsolarstore.com/index.php?r...product_id=112

Although some mount the panels directly to the roof with VHB, it will be difficult to remove them for replacement or service. Use some form of bracket to which the panels will bolt. Tilting mounts aren't necessary unless you're going to be in one spot for an extended period of time. I installed a set and never used them. Also, from what I've read, flexible panels' popularity is falling and aren't worth the price differential. They're great on top of a canvas boat Bimini top but not necessary for an RV roof.

All this sounds a lot more complicated than it is.

e4services · 11-18-2018, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpellegr

Says our 30RLSS is prepted for Solar. What do I need to buy to use? Where did you buy?

I think you better first figure out what "prep" was done. While the last response is good data, your "prep" maybe as simple as some wires running form the roof to some place (maybe you know where that is) OR they have run the wires to some panel or device that is a simple trickle charger. THe fact that it is a trailer, I would assume it is just some wires.
From YouTube video's of the 30RLSS , a battery was optional, a single "battery was added" was the statement and there is a plug on the side to connect "solar". I even think I remember seeing this on a customers newer Winny trailer, it is branded this plug, to yes what was first mentioned, those fold out panels. It is only a small Solar charger, nothing more for a single battery. Isn't there a warning label on the plug that says this?

RVeCafe · 11-18-2018, 06:43 PM

I've been using solar since 2009, my first advice is always: don't buy solar unless you are serious about being off grid for a month or more.

I would be surprised if your motorhome is properly wired for solar no matter what you have been told. Our Itasca came equipped with a 100 watt panel. It was installed to be able to advertise it had solar. The wiring is not heavy enough. I've installed eight solar charging systems so I intend to improve this system but it will take all new wiring.

The solar charging system does just that, it charges your batteries, that's all. So whatever you can run from your batteries is what will work using a solar charging system. You need the panels, charge controller and sufficient batteries to store the energy. Of course you will need the proper size wire to connect it all. You will also need an inverter to run whatever AC devices you want to use such at a TV.

If you really want a solar charging system you need to learn how to use it. Best place to learn is the Senator Wash LTVA (long term visitor area) about 20 miles north of Yuma, Arizona. You will find a thousand RVers parked in the desert there for the winter and most know how to use their solar system. There is a solar supplier on site who can sell you the equipment and install for you if you wish.

Good luck.
Dale

BobC · 11-18-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVeCafe

I've been using solar since 2009, my first advice is always: don't buy solar unless you are serious about being off grid for a month or more.

I would be surprised if your motorhome is properly wired for solar no matter what you have been told. Our Itasca came equipped with a 100 watt panel. It was installed to be able to advertise it had solar. The wiring is not heavy enough. I've installed eight solar charging systems so I intend to improve this system but it will take all new wiring.

The solar charging system does just that, it charges your batteries, that's all. So whatever you can run from your batteries is what will work using a solar charging system. You need the panels, charge controller and sufficient batteries to store the energy. Of course you will need the proper size wire to connect it all. You will also need an inverter to run whatever AC devices you want to use such at a TV.

If you really want a solar charging system you need to learn how to use it. Best place to learn is the Senator Wash LTVA (long term visitor area) about 20 miles north of Yuma, Arizona. You will find a thousand RVers parked in the desert there for the winter and most know how to use their solar system. There is a solar supplier on site who can sell you the equipment and install for you if you wish.

Good luck.
Dale

Dale, I agree with pretty much everything you've written except the part about not installing solar unless you plan on being off the grid for a month or more. I can only assume that you would expect us to depend heavily on generator power.

We've had solar on two TT, first 100w and then 200w. I have two 180w panels ready to install on my MH when I get time to do so. We've been gone from home for over a month but our longest time off the grid was maybe a week to ten days. My main reason for going from 200w to 360w is that we need to power a wheelchair lift. We had an electric "stand-on" lift on our last TT and were fine with 200w but, since the price of solar panels has decreased so much, I decided to increase to 360w.

I wouldn't be without solar, not only because we dislike generator noise but because we like the fact that everything continues to be charged while in storage. Our generator usage when off the grid is pretty much limited to running the microwave and occasional battery top-off in less than ideal weather. The idea of routinely running a generator several hours a day is something I would never consider doing and I certainly don't want to be camped next to someone who does.

As a DIY project, solar isn't an overly expensive mod and, if you have a basic understanding of DC electricity, multimeter use and wiring, it isn't technically challenging.

RVeCafe · 11-18-2018, 09:14 PM

BobC, you have made some good points. It is my opinion, 95% of RVers travel from one RV park to another and have no idea how to efficiently camp off grid. We have spent as much as 4 months camped in the Arizona desert off grid. That doesn't make us experts but we know how to be off grid comfortably. My first system cost $4,000 and I installed it myself. You are right, the price of a solar system is about half that now depending upon the size and type of inverter you buy. So that is the focus of my advice. $2,000 is a lot to spend to keep your batteries charged for those who spend 1 - 10 days off grid. You are also right, a solar charging system will keep the batteries charged in outside storage, that fact eliminated a concern of dead batteries when I had the occasion to store an RV.

We recently camped with a friend who had to run his generator 3.5 hours each day to recharge his batteries, then again before bed. So I agree, it's not fun to be next to a generator. Having said that, we recently purchased an upgrade to our RV life. It's 40 feet long and has a residential refrigerator and washer/dryer. I can't imagine getting away with not running our generator at least some each day but let the solar charging system top off the batteries. I won't know what it is going to take until I install the system and give it a try. It may be that our days of 4 months off grid have come to an end. Dale

BobC · 11-18-2018, 11:27 PM

My 180w Grape panels were $200/ea plus a controller for under $150, plus whatever I spend on wiring. I have a simple 1,000w inverter already, so my investment is much less than $2k.

sherf · 11-19-2018, 08:58 AM

My 2007 Adventurer has the factory solar panel,1’x 2’ approx, what would be the easiest way to more, larger panels?
Thanks in advance

**creativepart** · 11-19-2018, 09:42 AM

If your older Adventurer has the little 10 or 15 watt panel directly wired to the battery for trickle charging then that setup it's pretty much not expandable as currently configured.

You could leave it and start anew solar charge system - but if you have the older system then your system provides minimal power and doesn't even have a solar charge controller. It just puts out so little power that nothing was needed.

A new system would be quite a bit larger panels. Wired via heavier gauge wiring to a solar charge controller (either a PWM or MPPT controller) and the output of the charge controller wired to the battery bank. A Battery Monitor Kit wouldn't be required but would be a very helpful addition as well.

Newer Adventurers had an optional 100w panel with a 30 amp PWM solar controller and a portal on the roof to add up to two more panels. Generally, you see this option on all Adventurers that also came with a residential fridge. The residential fridge option came with 4-Group 31 AGM deep cycle batteries and a 2000 PSW inverter/charger as well.

If you have that system, then all you need to do is mount two new panels on the roof and connect them to the two open ports on the 3-port connector on the roof. Keep in mind, the 30 amp Charge Controller on that system can only handle a total of 400 to 450 watts.

BobC · 11-19-2018, 10:30 AM

Even with a new Adventurer, I'd double check the wire gauge used to pre-wire it so you don't overload it. Hopefully it's at least 10g. Here's a helpful calculator as to what you need, or conversely, how many watts you can install to your pre-existing wiring:

https://www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-cable

**creativepart** · 11-19-2018, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Even with a new Adventurer, I'd double check the wire gauge used to pre-wire it so you don't overload it. Hopefully it's at least 10g. Here's a helpful calculator as to what you need, or conversely, how many watts you can install to your pre-existing wiring:

https://www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-cable

Bob, that's really true. I'm not a wire gauge expert but it is thicker on my OEM setup and I think it's 10 ga. Both from the roof to the controller and from the controller to the battery bank. It is a relatively short distance from the charge controller to the battery bank on my RV. Approx 6 to 7 feet.

I've thought of re-wiring my panels in series to increase the voltage and changing to a MPPT controller versus the PWM controller that came on the RV. That would make the existing wiring gauge less critical.