Simple solar hookup

[KeithB]

So my 100W panel is due to arrive today. Also purchased 20a MPPT controller, which from what I’ve read is overkill, but gives me the option to expand the system. But another question: IF I install on the roof, do most figure a way to run wiring internally to the pass through? Where the controller will be housed. Otherwise I’d need to climb to the roof for each use to plug into the panel. Any other options? Thanks for continued advice! …again, this is for 2108DS TT.

[BobC]

I'm sure there are exceptions, but pretty much 100% of roof installations route the cable from the roof, inside, to the controller. Hopefully someone who's done this with your 2108DS will chime in or will be able to tell you how a factory install is routed.

I looked at your floor plan and I'd say the best routing is from your roof, down through your wardrobe. You'll want to mount a fixture like this on the roof:

https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-We...s%2C124&sr=8-4

This thread may help as to the location of rooftop solar wiring on newer models:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...dy-355594.html

[Marine359]

If there is a gland on the forward end of your 2108ds roof, your MM is pre-wire for solar (solar prep). 10awg wires are routed down the inside of the front cap to small panel on the passenger side of the pass thru. The panel is labeled solar-prep. On the inside of this panel are the wires from the roof. Route these wires to your charge controller in the pass thru.

[Drew]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Think of the panel combined with the controller the same as a regular battery charger that you'd plug into a wall outlet. I'd connect the controller to the battery, then plug in the panel to the controller -

Does the load terminal of a charging controller not get used?

I bought a used RV with just one house battery…a Winnie Drop 170s. Part of the used deal came with a 100 watt panel, charge controller and a bunch of wires in a bag. I am trying to figure out how the previous owner connected this panel to the house battery. I do understand the basic setup of a charger controller. But what is the load? Or do I just need to charge the battery and nothing goes on the load? I can’t really tell is where the previous owner connected to the battery. There is an after market terminal block in the bathroom area that goes out to a storage compartment…with wires…but nothing that matches anything else. It is like I am missing part of the puzzle. And I a am not sure where the other end of the terminal block goes. Any ideas? Thanks!

[Marine359]

Where is the battery and what kind of battery?
What is the brand and model of the solar charge controller?

Only under special circumstances would you need to use the load output terminal of a charge controller. Normally you just connect battery output to the battery through an appropriately sized fuse. You should download the instruction manuals for all of your electrical components.

[Old Navy]

Like Jim said, normally you connect your loads to the battery through proper fuses/distribution system. The load output on my Victron controller can disconnect at a set voltage to avoid over-discharging the battery, and it protects from shorts. I've never seen it used, but I assume there are applications where it makes sense.

[Drew]

Originally Posted by Marine359

Where is the battery and what kind of battery?
What is the brand and model of the solar charge controller?

Thank you for the replies!

I have a P20L Windynation Controller, with a SOL-100P-01 Windynation Panel. The house battery is Everstart 24DC 675MCA.

So, it makes sense…no load…just charge the battery. And I did just pull the manual for the P20L and it says “load…optional”.

But I don't know where they connected the battery. As in…did they go directly to the battery…or go through the leads loose in the back storage compartment that feed through to the bathroom and to a terminal fuse box. These wires have ring connectors. What did they connect to this (will try to add pictures).

The bag of wires came with the wires to go to the solar panel. And then a 10g wire pair, also with ring terminal connector. Do, if they hooked that directly to the terminals of the battery…seems awkward not to have a quick disconnect to the battery. But also, what are the wires coming from the add on fuse box for…also with ring terminals? It’s like I am missing something.

[Marine359]

OK Drew,
First the battery. Yours is a Group 24 Marine Deep Cycle with 675 cold cranking amps. That’s what those numbers mean. It’s typically the cheapo kind of battery dealers provide with a new RV. It will serve you well as long as the extent of your camping is being in a campground with full hookups. Without hookups, it might last for a day before it’s dead if you have an absorption fridge. Won’t last thru the night if you have a compressor fridge. These batteries usually have a total storage capacity of 75 amphrs, but start dropping voltage at low state of charge like around 30%.

Next Carge Controller. It’s a 20 amp max output PWM solar charge controller, one of the cheapest you can buy. I don’t know the max input voltage on it, but likely 75v. OK if you don’t want anything more than the 100w panel you already have, but performance will not be great. If you want to add more solar, replace the controller you have with a serious charge controller that can support multiple panels in series or parallel or series/parallel.

Next up fuse block: A nice thing to have if you’re going to wire multiple circuits from device to battery. I have one and it saves, time and money because all you need is a box of assorted spade fuses. The wire at the top goes to battery negative, and the bottom wire goes to battery positive. The battery side (output) on your charge controller should be connected to a positive terminal on the fuse block, and there should be a 20 amp spade fuse in that slot. The negative terminal should connect to gnd. If you ever want to put in some extra 12v/usb outlets, this is where the wiring goes. You can connect additional charge controllers to the fuse block as long as the total amperage of all connected circuits does not exceed the ampacity of the trunk wire (top and bottom) that goes to the battery. So, it’s best to use 6awg or thicker for trunk wire.

Wires in compartment: These appear to be the trunk wires from the fuse block. They look large enough to suit the purpose, but to be sure read the print on the cables. The wires have ring terminals, so normally connect to a battery or bus bars But there’s nothing in the compartment. My guess is that the prior owner had a LiFePo4 battery in there but decided to take it with him and stick the new owner with his original cheapo marine deep cycle.

[Drew]

Thank you for your time!

I do plan on changing out the house battery to LiFePo4 but I will save that for another thread after I have done some proper research.

I actually just bought that Walmart CHEAPO in '22 when I learned that I had burned up what must have been the OEM Duracell Ultra from 2017. I did not realize I need to be disconnecting the battery when connected to the shore power for a long period of time...something I have now added to my to-do list. But, yes, I did go with the smaller battery for the battery box...smaller than the OEM. We haven't taken Daisy out for dry camping yet (got her in 2018), and really, if had not been for losing electricity after a storm, and wanting to make sure I can survive another power outage, I had not tried hooking up this solar panel.

OH, BTW, forgot to answer your question about location...the house battery is on the tongue, crammed between the propane and the camper.

That is what makes those wires coming out of the fuse box, in the bathroom, out to the rear storage compartment confusing...not to mention the fuse box. The wires are not long enough to make it to the front battery. So, you think maybe they had a separate battery for the solar charger controller...ran the terminals from the controller to the battery in the back...and ran that fuse terminal. But what was connected to the fuse box?

Should I just remove the terminal fuse block...and plan to hook the SOLAR panel controller to the main battery upfront?

Thanks!

[Marine359]

It wasn’t originally clear to me that your photos were from the bathroom. And that the wires led to a rear compartment. If you’re not planning to use them to mount a battery back there, you can remove that stuff, but don’t throw away the fuse block. You may want to use that gizmo. Most people mount their new LFP in a forward compartment, like pass thru or under front bed. Forward location makes it much easier to re-route wires from the tongue to an internally mounted LFP. Note from photos in my upgrades and mods album the location of the fuse block in a position to support multiple charge controllers and 12vdc loads. I routed my fuse block to bus bars, which makes for an easier wire management situation. After you decide what you want to do, post in a new thread. There are several who can help.