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Old 08-20-2022, 06:26 PM   #21
Winnie-Wise
 
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If you by-pass the voyager controller and go straight to the Victron control in the TT, are the panels wired in series or parallel? I am looking at a couple 100w panels at Costco I would like to add to my TT's rooftop panel. These new panels will be on the ground and connected to the TT's controller port in the pass-through (which I how to move to the outside of the trailer in the future). So, do I wire them in series or parallel?

Power Rating:100W
Working Voltage:17.1V
Amperage:5.8A
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Old 08-21-2022, 08:48 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by No1Hunter View Post
If you by-pass the voyager controller and go straight to the Victron control in the TT, are the panels wired in series or parallel? I am looking at a couple 100w panels at Costco I would like to add to my TT's rooftop panel. These new panels will be on the ground and connected to the TT's controller port in the pass-through (which I how to move to the outside of the trailer in the future). So, do I wire them in series or parallel?

Power Rating:100W
Working Voltage:17.1V
Amperage:5.8A
Sorry but your inquiry is a bit confusing. it’s not possible to respond accurately. Please tell us: how many panels, the watts and voltage of each panel. Are you talking about bypassing the Voyager on a suitcase, and adding to it to 2 more panels? Port that you speak of is a sidewall or rooftop port? Is the Victron already installed in the pass thru, and what size is it?
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Old 08-21-2022, 12:46 PM   #23
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Jim,

Currently, I have one panel that came on my TT. I believe it is a Dometic Go Power panel and my TT has a Go Power 30amp controller with a port next to it in the pass-through. From what I can find out, the panel has the following spec's:

Output power 190 W
Rated current 9.45 A
Rated DC voltage 20.4 V
Open-circuit voltage 24.09 V

I was looking at 2 100w panels at Costco but has since decided just to buy the Renogy 200 Watt suitcase:

Maximum Power at STC: 200W
Cell Efficiency: 22%
Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.5V
Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.8V
Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 10.5A
Short-Circuit Current (Isc): 11.7A

I plan on by-passing the suitcase controller and connect the panels directly to the Go Power controller via the port in the crawl through. The panels I was looking at from Costco had just two wires from the panel and that is where my series/parallel question came from. With the suites, I guess I will just use the leads that come out the second panel.

Eventually, I want to replace the Go Power PWM controller with a Victron 100/30amp (or 100/50amp) MPPT controller and hope to move the power inside the crawl space to the outside of the TT at that time.

Hopefully that clarifies things a bit.
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Old 08-21-2022, 12:48 PM   #24
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Jim

I have a couple other questions. I believe you commented you use a flexible/foldable panel. Which one are you using? Is it permanently mounted and if not, how do you deploy it?

Thanks
Bob
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Old 08-21-2022, 02:07 PM   #25
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Thanks for the added explanation #1. I think I now know what you’re contemplating. First, you already have an installed array with controller that work perfectly fine. So, I can’t think of a good reason to mess with that. Trying to connect dissimilar panels to a single controller is electrically complex, and could cause a fire. At best, you would also need to install a fused combiner box to do that, which I feel is more expensive and complex than it would be to just add another controller. You can connect as many controller to your battery as you like, but you can only connect one pv array wire lead to a single controller (without a combiner box). If you’re just trying to figure out what makes a good portable panel for you, think about how you’re going to stow it when not in use. Then think about how far you may want to place the panel from your camper. A portable with built-in pwm controller max to be very close to your battery with short leads. That’s because the wire is carrying higher amperage leading to voltage drop between the controller and battery. If you go with a mppt controller mounted right next to the battery, there is virtually no voltage drop, even with the panel placed 30ft away. The wire Carrie’s only the amperage output by the panel, and the voltage can travel a long way on a 10awg cable.

We camp in a lot of state parks, national parks, and COE campgrounds. Here in the eastern US, campsites are usually canopied. So, In many cases, I needed to get my panel a fair distance away from the camper. That made the decision for me to go with a Victron 75/15 mppt mounted in pass thru. It also simplifies install because all you need here is a SAE sidewall mount connected on the inside to the mppt controller, and on the outside to an adapter that goes between SAE and MC4 (30 ft of 10 awg cable) MC4 connects to the panel. We chose a soft folding flexible panel because we’re really limited on storage. It weighs only 6.5 lbs, so we can just fold it and stow it in a closet. There are several soft foldables on the market. We chose to spend a bit more to get the panel with the most advanced technology cells and surface (PERC 9BB and EFTE). Our Lensunsolar 110w performs well, and we’ve been happy with the purchase made directly from the Lensunsolar website: https://www.lensunsolar.com/Products...product_id=479

Photos in my mods & adds in my album folder

We’ve purchased a Victron 100/30 to install next to the 75/15. This controller will be used to service our upcoming 2x 200w rooftop array (in series).
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Old 08-21-2022, 02:36 PM   #26
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Thanks for the reply. Though we are in the Northwest, we also camp in basically National Forest and State lands camping areas. No hookups whatsoever, and we try to park in the shady spots during the warm summer months. This leads to reduced battery power and the lack of being able to charge them back up during the day without running my generator.

So, what I hoped I could do is have a set of portable panels I could place in the sunshine. I'm surprised (well, not really) the port to the OEM controller isn't designed to plug another panel in unless it is exactly like the one on the roof (if I understood you correctly). I have seen some RVs with two different size panels on their roofs, and I assumed they were all connected to the same controller.

Now, again, if I understood you correctly, it is fine to have more than one controller attached to the batteries that are powered by different panels? It seems one would see the power from the other and turn off/reduce charging thinking the batteries are charged, especially if both sets of panels are in the full sun.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:06 PM   #27
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Connecting identical panels together is OK but there are issues if the specs are different. This may help clear things up:

https://solarpanelsvenue.com/mixing-solar-panels/

I like Marine359's idea of a second MPPT controller and a dedicated sidewall port. I'd also suggest that, rather than permanently bypassing the suitcase panel's controller that you install a set of waterproof MC4 that would allow to to easily reconnect it. That way, you can use the panel and it's controller when and if you wanted to use it for another purpose.

Also, be extremely careful in wiring the sidewall port. The polarities of Zamp ports are the opposite of "standard" SAE ports even though they both physically identical and accept SAE plugs. This means you can't rely on the wire colors of the ports matching the colors of all SAE plugs. The black and red leads (pigtails) attached to a Zamp port are reversed from those of the pigtails of a similar SAE port. You want to make sure that your positive and negative leads are matched all the way from your panel to the controller. The simple way to do this is, if you install a Zamp port, install a Zamp connector on the end of your suitcase panel's cable. If you install an standard SAE port, install an standard SAE connector on the end of your panel's cable. By doing so, the polarity of the port's pigtails will match those of the plug. Otherwise, somewhere along the line you'll be reversing the red and black leads to maintain polarity, which is never a good idea.

Since your suitcase system's cables terminate in MC4 connectors and, if you install a Zamp port, the easiest, but relatively expensive way to achieve this is to get one of these:

https://www.zampsolar.com/products/m...-cable-adapter

However, just in case, always double check polarities with a multimeter.

Note: If you read up on this, some will say Zamp connectors are wired in reverse. Zamp steadfastly maintains "No, but they are different from other brands of solar ports because all of our SAE plugs are polarity-protected for safety reasons." I guess there's some logic to this since the exposed (male) side of a connector on a Zamp cable designed to plug into a Zamp port is negative while the positive (female) side of the connector is protected.

Let us know if this is at all confusing.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No1Hunter View Post
If you by-pass the voyager controller and go straight to the Victron control in the TT, are the panels wired in series or parallel? I am looking at a couple 100w panels at Costco I would like to add to my TT's rooftop panel. These new panels will be on the ground and connected to the TT's controller port in the pass-through (which I how to move to the outside of the trailer in the future). So, do I wire them in series or parallel?

Power Rating:100W
Working Voltage:17.1V
Amperage:5.8A
The panel on the Renogy Suitcase with Voyager Controller comes wired in Parallel and cannot be changed without unsoldering and re soldering the MC4 cables inside the Junction boxes on the back of the panel. At least mine foresure.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Let us know if this is at all confusing.
Nope, not at all. A second controller seems simple enough. I assume the positive side of each controller can be wired to a buss and then a single wire ran to the batteries of sufficient size to handle the amps and length.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:39 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
Connecting identical panels together is OK but there are issues if the specs are different. This may help clear things up:

https://solarpanelsvenue.com/mixing-solar-panels/

I like Marine359's idea of a second MPPT controller and a dedicated sidewall port. I'd also suggest that, rather than permanently bypassing the suitcase panel's controller that you install a set of waterproof MC4 that would allow to to easily reconnect it. That way, you can use the panel and it's controller when and if you wanted to use it for another purpose.

Also, be extremely careful in wiring the sidewall port. The polarities of Zamp ports are the opposite of "standard" SAE ports even though they both physically identical and accept SAE plugs. This means you can't rely on the wire colors of the ports matching the colors of all SAE plugs. The black and red leads (pigtails) attached to a Zamp port are reversed from those of the pigtails of a similar SAE port. You want to make sure that your positive and negative leads are matched all the way from your panel to the controller. The simple way to do this is, if you install a Zamp port, install a Zamp connector on the end of your suitcase panel's cable. If you install an standard SAE port, install an standard SAE connector on the end of your panel's cable. By doing so, the polarity of the port's pigtails will match those of the plug. Otherwise, somewhere along the line you'll be reversing the red and black leads to maintain polarity, which is never a good idea.

Since your suitcase system's cables terminate in MC4 connectors and, if you install a Zamp port, the easiest, but relatively expensive way to achieve this is to get one of these:

https://www.zampsolar.com/products/m...-cable-adapter

However, just in case, always double check polarities with a multimeter.

Note: If you read up on this, some will say Zamp connectors are wired in reverse. Zamp steadfastly maintains "No, but they are different from other brands of solar ports because all of our SAE plugs are polarity-protected for safety reasons." I guess there's some logic to this since the exposed (male) side of a connector on a Zamp cable designed to plug into a Zamp port is negative while the positive (female) side of the connector is protected.

Let us know if this is at all confusing.
On the Zamp Solar SAE Wall port the male pin is positive and the female socket is negative. Backwards yes, renogy panels requires the female socket to be positive and the male pin to be negative if using their SAE to MC4 adapter cable.

As Bob said start at the controller +/- and follow it back to the battery to be sure your inline.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:52 PM   #31
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OP mentioned the fact that two different panels on roof connected to same controller. That is perfectly ok as long as the output of each panel are close to each other. They are wired to each other either in parallel or in series, not seperately to the controlle. The controller sees both panels as one array. But as you already know, there is only one pv input on the controller. That’s why you can’t just plug a portable into that controller. The cost of trying to wire the existing controller to accept input from two arrays requires a fused combiner, which exceeds the cost of just buying a second controller. A 75/15 costs only $120.

Maybe I missed something, but I did not understand that OP already has a suitcase panel. If he doesn’t, his needs will be better met by adding a 75/15 connected through an SAE port to one of any. Umber of portable panels available that do not have a built-in controller. If he wants more portable watthrs, he can buy a second portable and wire it in series to the first one. The 75/15 can handle them both.
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Old 08-21-2022, 04:57 PM   #32
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When you buy an MC4 to SAE adapter kit, it comes with a polarity reverser. It’s not easy to mis-wire. The inside of the port has black and red wire leads. Just make sure your MC4/cables on the outside line up color-wise.
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Old 08-21-2022, 05:20 PM   #33
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When you buy an MC4 to SAE adapter kit, it comes with a polarity reverser. It’s not easy to mis-wire. The inside of the port has black and red wire leads. Just make sure your MC4/cables on the outside line up color-wise.
Not in Renogy's case, you would have to rewire or buy the reverser separately.

The lead with the tag attached is the positive if I can remember correctly. (Opposite to Zamp)
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Old 08-21-2022, 07:01 PM   #34
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SAE (Zamp) Wall Port Location

Hello All,

My 2017 2106FBS did not come solar ready and so I'm currently in the process in wiring for portable solar with inside controller.

I want to install an SAE wall port (Zamp type) thru the exterior wall into the front passthrough to run the panel wires to my interior mounted Victron controller.

As I do not have structural drawings for the trailer does anyone have pictures or dimensions as to where Winnebago mounted the Zamp plug on their 2106 Model.

I don't want to drill just anywhere and end up drilling through the aluminum wall structure.
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Old 08-22-2022, 06:47 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Bcborn View Post
Hello All,

My 2017 2106FBS did not come solar ready and so I'm currently in the process in wiring for portable solar with inside controller.

I want to install an SAE wall port (Zamp type) thru the exterior wall into the front passthrough to run the panel wires to my interior mounted Victron controller.

As I do not have structural drawings for the trailer does anyone have pictures or dimensions as to where Winnebago mounted the Zamp plug on their 2106 Model.

I don't want to drill just anywhere and end up drilling through the aluminum wall structure.
If your 2106 is similar to my 2108, these pics may help. I chose this location because there is only 2ft of wire on the port, and I wanted the entering wire to route across the ceiling of the pass thru. In this manner, the wiring is out of the way so unlikely to be bumped by cargo.
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Old 08-22-2022, 08:34 AM   #36
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Inside and Outside with 30ft cable
What is, and where did you get your bus bar in the top picture? It appears to be a combo positive/negative bar.
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Old 08-22-2022, 10:36 AM   #37
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That’s not a bus bar. It’s a fuse block. Each incoming wire set has a fuse. Outgoing wires are 6awg and go to the battery. Using a fuse block allows you to have a convenient place to fuse your wiring and will accommodate various size blade fuses. It has space for up to six input wire pairs. In addition to controller wiring, I’ve installed 12v/usb outlets on both sides of the bed, which wire to the block using 15amp fuses. This block from Blue Sea Systems on Amazon for $35.
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Old 08-22-2022, 10:49 AM   #38
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That’s not a bus bar. It’s a fuse block. Each incoming wire set has a fuse. Outgoing wires are 6awg and go to the battery. Using a fuse block allows you to have a convenient place to fuse your wiring and will accommodate various size blade fuses. It has space for up to six input wire pairs. In addition to controller wiring, I’ve installed 12v/usb outlets on both sides of the bed, which wire to the block using 15amp fuses. This block from Blue Sea Systems on Amazon for $35.
Thanks. Found it!
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Old 08-22-2022, 12:02 PM   #39
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If your 2106 is similar to my 2108, these pics may help. I chose this location because there is only 2ft of wire on the port, and I wanted the entering wire to route across the ceiling of the pass thru. In this manner, the wiring is out of the way so unlikely to be bumped by cargo.
Thanks Jim,

I was thinking that same area for placement of the wires. Did the awning backing come down that far when you drilled through or typical wall board and foam. Looks like your just inside the awning leg and centered with the pass through door upper frame.

I bought two resettable 20amp fuses (assuming OK size for Victron 75/15) so I can use them as switches to cut PV power to controller when changing out charging parameters and battery type (Lead Acid to Lithium).
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Old 08-22-2022, 12:21 PM   #40
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I just shoved my head inside the pass thru and put my finger on the point where I wanted the wires to enter, then put my head outside and approximated the entry point. Then I drilled a small pilot hole just in case I was off a bit. However, it was right on, so drilled through with the correct size bit. Nice fuses you have. But remember, it’s really not necessary to fuse between array and controller if you’re using 10awg, which can safely carry 30 amps. Your array won’t be anywhere close to that. You need to fuse between controller and battery to protect that wire, because it will be possible a 100/30 controller to output 30 amps.
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