1. The inverter's fuses protects the inverter once the power from the batteries reaches the inverter. They do nothing to protect the 12V wiring.
2. The AC/DC adapter specs confuse me. As I previously stated, the maximum output wattage is 18V x 4.0A = 72 Watts. The input specs calculate to 100V x 1.7A = 170W @ 100V AC and 240 x 1.7A = 408W. These numbers make no sense, watts should be constant and amps should vary with the voltage. The amp draw at 240V should be 100/240 = 41.7% of the draw at 100V, not equal.
3. Let's assume that the 1.7A draw at 100V is correct, which is terrible efficiency since it represents a draw of 170W at 100V to produce 72W at 18V.
4. Given these inconsistencies, I'm going to have to go with Wyatt's suggestion and test it. I suggest hooking the inverter up directly to a 12V battery and measuring the amp draw from the battery with a multimeter when operating both the TV and the soundbar.
5. Personally, I'd rather see you run a dedicated, fused line from your battery or, ideally from your 12V distribution panel. It should be labeled at both ends. Owner mods are difficult to sort out by future owners, so documentation is key. Assuming you do want to use an existing circuit, I'd choose something other than than that feeding the slide motor. You say they'll never be operated at the same time but they could be by someone else or a future owner.
Thanks Bob, I too am confused with the sound bar manufacturers specs on the AC/DC Adapter.
I received an email from Bestek, they informed me they have a 12 foot 12 ga Cigarette extension cord. When mated with their 24" cigarette adapter (included with inverter) and plugged into a 15 amp cigarette socket the inverter would produce 180 watts. This I'm sure you have already determined (12v x 15amp = 180 watts).
Yes as Wyatt suggested, should I extend the slide motor wiring with additional 10Ga wire I will definitely install another inline 30 amp fuse and test it.
If all fails I will look at the option of running a dedicated 8 -10 Ga wire from the battery throu a 30 amp fuse to the TV area (drivers side rear). Issue is battery is at front of trailer and TV is near the back and the underside of the frame is fully enclosed for the rear 2/3rds. The converter/fuse panel is on the passenger side of the trailer, again underside fully enclosed side to side.
Running new wire from the battery in either case is not an easy option, but a better one for sure.
Not sure why Winnebago never installed a 12 volt supply (USB/Cigarette Socket) in the entertainment center area standard equipment.
Had a closure look today to answer my own question. Attached is the 2017 2106FBS Micro Minnie Wiring Schematic as supplied by Winnebago. Assume the 2106DS is the same.
To run a new 30amp feed to the Inverter near the TV will require I pull down a few feet of the front section the plastic paneling that encloses the under belly.
Hopefully I will be able to get by the Fresh Water tank and drill up under the Jack Knife Sofa to get the wire into the interior of the trailer,
From there I can run the wire as did Fred, where he tapped off the slide motor.
Let you know what I find above the panel. FYI the 20amp Automatic Fuse to the Slide is on the frame rail next to the Junction Box and fed from the Junction Box.
Do I need to run a new short piece of #6 from the supply side of the 30 amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker inside the junction box to a new 30 amp fuse outside the junction box to feed the inverter or can I just wire the dedicated inverter 30amp line to the outlet side of the same 30 amp Manual Reset Circuit Breaker?
I installed a 800W (non-sine) inverter close to the batteries (<2m), and then ran the 110v to the two places I needed it (aft to computer desk + forward to TV/Soundbar). I terminated both at power strips. As originally suggested, it's far safer to make your low voltage runs short. You can run 3/16 AWG for 110v just about anywhere you like.
The sixth and seventh pictures shows the arrangement and what is behind our lower cabinet. I was able to get these pictures when I added the USB powered fireplace. Also, because I had easy access to this area, I was able to attach my new wires to the framing for stress relief.
In the seventh picture, you can also see the outside shower enclosure and the way the outside shower hose stores in this area. It looks like you could gain access to this area by removing the outside shower enclosure. This may make running your wires a little easier than fishing for them.
Hello Fred,
I have yet to remove the stereo, but once I do, is this portion of the lower cabinet open to the outside wall. Will I see the opening behind the shower and the drop to the trailer floor where the outside shower is located.
I'm thinking I would like to install the attached plug in the vertical wall behind the TV outboard as far as possible above the cut out if there is room between the shower stall and the wall itself for this plug assembly.
If not, 2nd option is to place it on the under side of the top cabinet inboard of the 110vplug. The fun will be removing the upper cabinet false base without destroying it. Then run the wire down where I assume all the other wires travel (behind shower enclosure), fishing it out through the hole shown in your picture and then dropping it into the outdoor shower cavity to pul into the the coach under the sofa.
This plug assembly has a 110v cord on it which I will plug into the inverter which will be placed in the empty right corner of the slide infront of the wheel well cover. This will allow me to run a shorter length of DV Power.
I have yet to remove the stereo, but once I do, is this portion of the lower cabinet open to the outside wall. Will I see the opening behind the shower and the drop to the trailer floor where the outside shower is located.
I'm thinking I would like to install the attached plug in the vertical wall behind the TV outboard as far as possible above the cut out if there is room between the shower stall and the wall itself for this plug assembly.
If not, 2nd option is to place it on the under side of the top cabinet inboard of the 110vplug. The fun will be removing the upper cabinet false base without destroying it. Then run the wire down where I assume all the other wires travel (behind shower enclosure), fishing it out through the hole shown in your picture and then dropping it into the outdoor shower cavity to pul into the the coach under the sofa.
This plug assembly has a 110v cord on it which I will plug into the inverter which will be placed in the empty right corner of the slide infront of the wheel well cover. This will allow me to run a shorter length of DV Power.
Yes, when you pull the stereo, that space is open to the outside wall. I believe, you will be able to see the opening behind the shower and the end of the shelf where it drops off to the outside shower. You may find it helpful to use a flexible endoscope once you remove the stereo to have a look around. It may also help with finding/pulling wires since you will be working with limited visual and physical access to that area.
I think you will have room to add your receptacle on the wall behind the TV, as long as you keep it as far outboard as possible since the back corner of the shower is at a 45 degree angle. But again, this is where a flexible endoscope would come in handy to double check the opening and available depth before cutting a hole in the wall.
__________________ 2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2106DS, 200Ah BB, 400w rooftop & 500w front cap solar 2020 Tundra SR5 DLCB TRD Off Road, 5.7L V8 w/6.5' bed & 38 gal. tank, 4.30 axle ratio
Blue Ox Sway Pro w/750# bars, wired RVS rear view camera, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger
Added a wireless remote to my inverter today. I placed the inverter under the jack knife sofa and with the slide room out I could not access the on/off switch.
I'm a big fan of the Samlex PST series of inverters. The 400W versions are fairly small and give you some 'headroom' for startup surges. Those are pure sine wave and very robust for ~$140. They will also shut themselves off if the battery voltage falls below safe limits.
Linear Mode
