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Old 05-14-2022, 09:01 PM   #21
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW View Post
Unless someone has some information to add on this issue I will consider it closed until I start my installation. I intend to continue as planned.
Even so, keep us posted as to how things turn out. It's always nice to see a successful, completed project.
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Old 05-16-2022, 06:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sentry View Post
What I noticed with the diagrams I was sent. Was that they were not up to date as far as the year model I have.
There were numerous inaccuracies.
All of the drawings they sent me have a revision date in the title block, except for that generic solar wiring diagram. That doesn't mean they are correct though. I am curious if your drawings have been revised or not.
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Old 05-18-2022, 05:08 PM   #23
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Sorry - Way too much TMI in all your posts above, such that I do not really know what you are asking. I do know that there are many, many posts all over the internet about how to design and install RV solar systems. While there is much in common in designing a system, at the end of the day each Brand, Model, MY and floor plan is going to be unique and different as to how and where wires have to be run, where other electrical components are already located, etc, etc, etc. Each rig has to be handled uniquely.

My general advice for RV Solar installs is:
(1) use proper wire gauges to handle all loads appropriately. Better to err towards heavier wire than thinner.
(2) Best to use Marine wiring. WHY? Because it is flexible wire (multi-strand) that is so much easier to work with, and since bare copper WILL corrode when exposed to moisture all strands are tinned in Marine wire to preserve them. I have found that even interior wiring in an RV can tend to be exposed to more moisture & humidity (than in a house) and tend to corrode.
(3) For heavy cables to / from batteries use welding cable - again so much more flexible and easy to work with.
(4) Use Lithium batteries. Yes - they cost more initially but their 10year life span makes them cheaper over that period over multiple buys of LA batteries.
(5) Install a good battery monitor such as Victron 712. Easier to wire in while doing all the other work, but an essential gauge necessary to monitor charging/discharging rates as well as actual battery state of charge.
(6) Consider not putting all solar panels on your roof - because you will often be parked in the shade under trees - especially when you want to keep your rig cooler in hot weather. Buy some 100 - 150w portable/remote panels which you can place out in the sun away from a shaded RV. On my rig I do that, running 2 remote panels through a separate, inexpensive Renogy Solar Controller.
(7) Keep your solar panels clean. Especially when parked under trees your roof top panels will get very dirty very quickly.

Good luck!
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Old 05-18-2022, 05:30 PM   #24
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Thanks for the sound advise Henry.

But this thread is more about me sharing my build with others as I build it and less about questions as I have already purchased all of my solar system equipment.

In the pictures I shared you will see everything that you mentioned in your post.

I have welding cables in various sizes including 4/0, 2/0, 4, 6 and 8 AWG. Plus Marine PV cable in 10 AWG size for connecting all of my panels to my controllers. I will be cutting and crimping my own cables.

I have 400 ah of smart LiFePO4 batteries.

I have a Victron SmartShunt. I don't want a display.

I have flexible panels for the roof and will have 715w on the roof. I have 800w in suitcase panels which I will run in series at 103v so I can run 100' of 10 AWG Marine PV cable with minimal power loss if I choose to. I do not plan to park my camper in the sun for the heat reasons you mentioned. But sometimes it may be parked in the sun. The roof system is for those rare occasions and to recharge while travelling. My portable suitcases will be my primary system.

My only question was in regards to the stock solar drop wire gauge, as it was in dispute. I would prefer if it is 10 AWG like I thought it was based on schematics, but I can still use it if it is 12 AWG. So it's not terribly important.

Once again, thanks for the advise!
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