Micro Minnie Solar

[Blubugger]

I was, like you...mildly surprised regards the origin. The box clearly indicates that, but surprise! no indication on the panel itself. A lot of French though.

[Blubugger]

Today was the 1st day that I was able to set the PV out in the bright sunshine for extended period of time. After 3.5hours under PV charging the house 12v battery on the 2106ds went from 12.2v to 13.0v.
I have no real evidence of how old this SRM-24 battery is [I assume that it was original on this 2018 model]. So that is part of the background for going solar when we will be boondocking in the future.
I certainly would like to get the battery up around 3.4 to 3.6volts, so I set the battery switch to disconnect And will see if that charges it up any more above 13.1v. -
Report tbd.

[Blubugger]

We arrived home from three fab days in the Pecos Wilderness [New Mexico]. The days were warm, the nights...down to 32 degrees with crisp layer of thin ice on all outside surfaces. No shore power, so no AC or microwave needed...just heater!
Our initial use of the 100 watt Coleman solar panel on boondocking [Costco $119] was a resounding success. Previously we added a 2nd SRM-24 deep cycle battery for added 12v power.
The PV in bright sunshine [at 9000' elevation] kept the batteries fully charged. We ran the heater at 65 degree setting at night and had no problems.
In trying to find a suitable storage location for the PV, the space behind the slide-out sofa is best. We used a quilt or some form of protection to wrap the Coleman panel [as other posts have indicated, I filed the aluminum corners down a bit]. Since this panel weighs less [21#] than the stock table which we have removed for use other than in the 2016ds..it fits nicely there and is easy to retrieve.
The PV does have a 1/4-20 screw mount on 2 sides which can be used to attach feet or some form of bracket for placing the PV on outside surfaces.
So, next trip...TBD.

[Blubugger]

For those of us who are of the "Doubting Thomas" variety, I submit that I like to have visual confirmation of the status of the house battery...especially when boondocking. After all, if you are out in the forest and the overnite temps goes down, the unknown volts are way down and you have to somehow charge up things to get the cabin warm. [If mama ain't warm, then nobody is warm...or something like that!]. At any rate, I installed two relatively inexpensive LED 12VDC voltmeters [Amazon, ~$8]. One inside, and one on the battery box lid...outside. And since using solar to charge the battery[s] you can monitor the volts directly whether inside or out.
An initial report on the Costco supplied Coleman PV system during boondocking: we stayed 3 nights up at 9000' elevation [Pecos Wilderness] with bright sunshine, near freezing at night. The system performed flawlessly on our 2106ds with the prewired Zamp connection. Overnite volts dropped no lower than 12.3volts and the heater kept all toasty at 65degrees.

[Glen 3]

How did you find installing the battery meter inside the trailer? From the photo it looks just like our trailers switch and meters area but ours is on the opposite side of the trailer as the battery. Did you tap into the same wiring as the original equipment meter? Or did you somehow manage to fish the wires through the floor or ceiling? It would be nice to have a more accurate battery meter inside the trailer.

[thebunker]

I just came back from a three month trip pulling a 2108DS Minnie. I have a 200watt renogy suitcase panel and added an extra battery, there is room on the frame behind the propane tanks for an extra without modifications. I primarily dry camped almost the entire time and had no problems with keeping my batteries up. I also carry a 3700 watt quiet run Gen which I never had to use to power the batteries alone. I did use it when I needed AC or to watch TV. I also have the bigger propane tanks refrig/water heater I use the propane, coffee I use a French press so I conserve battery power. Very happy with the setup, you can camp in Nat Forests for next to nothing just need to periodically find a dump station

[Blubugger]

As reported earlier, we did have adequate and successful use of the Costco supplied, Coleman 100watt PV and controller connected on a sunny New Mexico day to the Zamp pre-wired port....altitude: 9000 feet. We do have two 12volt deep-cycle marine batteries.
Full charge was easily attained about 2hours time. The one upgrade I think would be to ad an upgraded controller vs the simple 12volt controller that indicates only "charging/charge" indication. So, we will report on that result when we have it.

Thanks

[Glen 3]

I have a Samlex solar charger and it plugs right in with the correct polarity. Of course if you find Zamp chargers they must fit because that's what it's designed for.

[gurroz]

If you plug in your solar panel and get an error message on your controller the polarity is reversed. You can purchase a twin pack SAE Reverse Polarity adapter on Amazon for under $5.00. Insert the adapter inline and the polarity will be correct.

[Blubugger]

Originally Posted by Glen 3

How did you find installing the battery meter inside the trailer? From the photo it looks just like our trailers switch and meters area but ours is on the opposite side of the trailer as the battery. Did you tap into the same wiring as the original equipment meter? Or did you somehow manage to fish the wires through the floor or ceiling? It would be nice to have a more accurate battery meter inside the trailer.

On our 2018 2106ds, the power/control panel located just aft of the entrance door...finding 12volts was easy. Finding ground or return was indeed a task as it appears that for most items [like the awning, the water pump and lights], only the +volt is switched. And the ground is then connected at the device.
On our battery box I installed a second LED voltmeter. That permits viewing the battery status from the outside without getting in the trailer etc. Once I was successful in locating a ground wire for the inside meter, I leave both meters connected 24/7 and they do give identical readings.
This setup didnt require any additional wire fishing etc.

[orangeminnie]

If you want to be able to stay out for multiple days, a several hundred watts of solar is probably required. For us, a combo of rooftop and portable seems to provide the best flexibility.

[TerryMA]

My 2018 Micro Minnie 2206 FBS has the solar connector described above. Is this connector simply a straight connection to the Battery with nothing in between?
I have not compared the polarity yet. I purchased a 100W panel for 149 at Harbour Freight and it comes with the controller extra cables and two Lights! Seem like a good way to keep battery topped up with minor use.

[Blubugger]

I should read my old posts to see if there is any corrections or updates! In this case, just a few days after posting the operation of the batteries with the 100watt [Costco] PV, we did go out for a few days boondocking. And by way of exercising the batteries, PV charging, then cycling the batteries, then charging....on nice sunny days, I was able to get the batteries up to 13.5volts [on shore power at home full charge to 13.7volts].
And, on the 2106ds, the Zamp plug does go straight to the battery. We found that for the most efficient charging, disconnect the battery at the disconnect switch. This will remove all of the parasitic drain [electronics etc.] and result in fastest turn-around time.

[Blubugger]

Originally Posted by TerryMA

My 2018 Micro Minnie 2206 FBS has the solar connector described above. Is this connector simply a straight connection to the Battery with nothing in between?
I have not compared the polarity yet. I purchased a 100W panel for 149 at Harbour Freight and it comes with the controller extra cables and two Lights! Seem like a good way to keep battery topped up with minor use.

TerryMA...I updated my earlier post from Sept of last year. If the 2206 is wired like the 2106, and you have a Battery Disconnect switch [the 2106 switch is in the left side storage compartment] most likely the SAE 2pin connector goes straight to the battery with the house 12volt wiring cutoff when disconnected.
Also, the male pin on the trailer should be the positive lead. This is to remove any chance that an exposed lead [if they were the male connector] from the PV will not inadvertently short anywhere.

[creativepart]

Whatever you folks connect to that plug make positive sure to use a solar charge controller. DO not connect your PV Panel directly to the batteries or you can trash the battery by over charging it dry in a very short while.

Your "12v PV Panel" without a charge controller will put out between 18v and 22v. The charge controller reduces that to a more battery friendly voltage ~13v max.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by Blubugger

And, on the 2106ds, the Zamp plug does go straight to the battery. We found that for the most efficient charging, disconnect the battery at the disconnect switch. This will remove all of the parasitic drain [electronics etc.] and result in fastest turn-around time.

Okay, I've never really looked into this, but I do own a 2106DS. I don't recall a second wire running to the battery other than the power jack. Am I forgetting one, or does it connect in somewhere inside the trailer before the main power disconnect?

[Blubugger]

Actually, the same here [2018model]...one black/red pair [6 gage] to the trailer and one smaller gage to the power jack. And to be honest, I cannot make out the connections under the drivers side tongue. There is a 2 terminal connector [red] and an electrical box that some folks have indicated, has a "reset" switch embedded inside. I have never been able to find that switch!
The last photo shows the house 12volt disconnect switch. Similar to yours?
Curious, because the subject of, or lack of disconnect switches and wiring diagrams comes up once in a while.
Thanks

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by Blubugger

Actually, the same here [2018model]. I have never been able to find that switch!
The lastAttachment 173225 photo shows the house 12volt disconnect switch. Similar to yours?
Curious, because the subject of, or lack of disconnect switches and wiring diagrams comes up once in a while.
Thanks

I wish I'd seen this post a few hours earlier. I was just out at the trailer putting a cover on. The disconnect is the same, and I have a vague recollection of that junction box. I did look at the cables that go to the battery boxes and only the two wires/cables you describe.

[HWanderer]

I have a micro minnie winnie 2019 and am headed to a campground with no hookups. I just bought a Go Power solar kit - 130 watt solar panels. Do I need an inverter? Am confused at where the inverter goes...... I am a solar newbie and am headed out in early May. Thanks to any and all who can provide some advice!!

[thebunker]

I don't use an inverter but I use a 250 watt li-ion battery pack to watch TV with it charges with a little solar panel of it's own. I use a 200W panel to charge the trailer batteries the 130W you have should be fine.