Micro Minnie FLX Xantrex/Go Power! Parameters - Page 11

tcaudle2001 · 05-25-2023, 12:15 PM

Thanks creativepart

So, I'll see what Go Power comes back with in terms of the max voc for the 190 panels. Seems to me like we'll be under 100 even with the 4 of them pumping.... presumably it'll be better to also not be bumping right up against 100 as well....

**creativepart** · 05-25-2023, 12:35 PM

If they are 12v nominal panels, and that's the most common on RVs, they'll put out between 18-21 volts each. Wired in Series you simply multiply the voltage by the number of panels. Four panels will make between 72v and 84v. Figure 80 volts.

If you add one more panel you'll be super close to going over 100 volts.

This is a constant regardless of the brand of panel or wattage. But does depend on the voltage output of the panels.

Just like with batteries - series wiring multiplies the voltage, parallel wiring multiplies the wattage.

With 4-190w panels if you series wire 2-pairs and then parallel wire the two pairs together you'll have about 40v and 380 watts of solar. This is approximately 10 amps. So, the GoPower controller would be perfectly fine.

4-190w panels wired in series will produce 80volts and 190watts. This will yield about 3 amps.

4-190w panels wired in parallel will produce 20volts and 760watts. This will yield 38 amps -- too much for a 30-amp solar controller.

NOTE: This is what I've been told, I'm no expert. So, always double check my figures.

tcaudle2001 · 05-25-2023, 12:42 PM

I *believe* where we end up is with two pairs...

2 x 190 roof panels wired in series...

2 x 190 external/portable panels wire in series...

and those two pairs are in parallel to the controller.

So, as you say, 40v and 380 watts of solar. I suppose then I have to ask... what's the point of the additional pair? If I am already getting ~325-375 watts in bright sun from the existing two panels, why add two more? Suppose you could move those two away from the rig in tims when the roof-mounted ones are not in the sun, but that doesn't seem like a large enough benefit....

**creativepart** · 05-25-2023, 12:55 PM

I'm on shaky ground saying this as if I know the answer completely, but your MPPT solar charge controller turns voltage into amps for charging. The numbers I gave you were panel output - not controller output.

Since your batteries are 12 volt (14+v for charging), your mppt controller converts volts over that number to amps for charging.

I found an online calculator and entered 2-Pairs in Series/Parallel and got these results:

Quote:

Once the Charge Controller Converts those ~50V from the solar array down to the ~14.5V necessary to charge a 12V battery bank, the charge controller will be putting out ~50A to charge the battery bank.

I'm not smart enough to figure this out on my own.

This is one of the main advantages of a MPPT controller over a PWM controller. The PWM solar charge controller discards all the volts over what's needed to charge the battery.

tcaudle2001 · 05-25-2023, 01:13 PM

I appreciate the thoughts!

Marine359 · 05-25-2023, 02:42 PM

If you have 3x 100 in series on the roof, with each panel having a Voc of 18-20vdc, you’re sending up to 60vdc to the charge controller. As Creativepart noted, it’s a 100/30 controller, so you can add (maybe) up to 40vdc with portables. A single 200w portable or two of them in parallel (not series) is all you’ll be able to add to the solar on the side port. To be sure, go on the roof and measure the Voc of the panels with a voltmeter. You’ll have to disconnect the mc4 connectors from the gland, and take your measurement across the mc4 connectors of each panel. This number is always good to have in your notebook.
Oh, and BTW the voltage rating of a charge controller always refers to the total Voc of the array.
Good luck with your project.

Old Navy · 05-26-2023, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcaudle2001

I *believe* where we end up is with two pairs...

2 x 190 roof panels wired in series...

2 x 190 external/portable panels wire in series...

and those two pairs are in parallel to the controller.

So, as you say, 40v and 380 watts of solar. I suppose then I have to ask... what's the point of the additional pair? If I am already getting ~325-375 watts in bright sun from the existing two panels, why add two more? Suppose you could move those two away from the rig in tims when the roof-mounted ones are not in the sun, but that doesn't seem like a large enough benefit....

Your 30A charge controller is close to maxed out with the 380W of roof panels. Charge Controllers will only output their rated AMPs TO the battery. Your Charge Controller might be able to handle the extra panels (or not, check the owners manual) but won't output more than 30A. For me, the best reason to have ground panels is that many campsites have lots of shade. Of course, a small quiet inverter generator is also a good "plan B" for those occasions.

Downytide · 05-28-2023, 10:42 AM

We'll folks, the saga continues, everything was working perfect until first day settling into the trip, I called this trip Murphy's trip, everything that can go wrong, did go wrong.

Got to the spot, open awning , suddenly realized not a single bloody thing worked, no stabilizers, no tongue jack, and everything beeped, the battery was severely over voltage, there was various codes, overcharging , over voltage, it was sitting at 14.6v and solar charger was ready 20somthing volts, xantrex inverter was beeping none stop as well, called lithionics, and was told to unhook the battery for safety, and the battery smelled funny too.

Adding salt to the wound was new neighbor who arrived a day later decided to be that guy, guy who blasts music and run generator in generator free zone, and yell at his kids at full volume, cops were called , we made the best out of it but called it quit early cand came home overnight, on the plus side is the trailer will go down the hwy at 120kmh beautifully.

The view was beautiful, I tried to enjoy it as much as I could when I was hand cranking the awning and everything else back to position, definitely bring a drill next time as backup.

SactoSteve · 05-28-2023, 06:33 PM

Crap!
30 amp breaker?
Battery blue LED off?

Sorry
- Steve

SactoSteve · 05-28-2023, 09:55 PM

Downytide-
About a year ago this thread was discussing problems with the 30 amp breaker coincidentally I was getting the propane valve recall performed and the service tech mentioned, out of the blue, that he had just serviced a FLX that had no power to the always on stuff. He showed me where the resettable breaker was and mentioned that the problem was that the connections (inside the red plastic covers) were not being made securely at the factory and should all be tightened down. Now that we know the GoPower controller output goes through this route to the battery? 🤔
Probably worth a check.
-steve

Downytide · Yesterday, 09:11 AM

At this point I'm not willing to do anything myself, I want everything done in a way that can be documented.

There's something definitely not right with the FLX system, we love the trailer, but Winnebago has to fix this, the battery smelled weird, I can't put a description on it, but as soon as I told them I hear "click sound" and it smells funny Lithionics asked me to remove it immediately.

Marine359 · Yesterday, 09:14 AM

You’re doing the right thing Downytide.
A LFP battery should never have any kind of odor. Neither should the wiring or inverter.
Your FLX has a serious problem that needs to be addressed under warranty.

Downytide · Yesterday, 09:20 AM

Winnebago has informed me last week they are willing to work with certified place to fix this, as the purchase dealer told me they can't look at it until August and possibly not sure WHAT to look for.

I really feel Winnebago need to do better training with dealers on this.

On the plus side, we learned what is we need vs want during trips with the trailer.

SactoSteve · Yesterday, 09:28 AM

downytidex
Totally understand and agree!