Micro Minnie FLX 2108TB Water Questions.

Downytide · 08-29-2022, 10:22 AM

Hi all, new owner of a Minnie 2108TB flx, we had our first camping trip with it the past weekend, we loved the flx package but I have few questions that the dealer didn't address (they are a volume based dealer, so I was prepare to deal with the learning and some repair myself).

- The Truma water heater system, I can't for the life of me figure out how to make it work the way it is suppose to, on the water heater panel it has 3 positions:

- Power on
- Off
- On Power

When I put it to on power, I can hear the ignition and feel the exhaust, but the hot water supply seems to only last about 10 seconds, what am I doing wrong here? the manual doesn't seem to explain much on this.

- The water pump, is it normal that it makes a hammer sound whenever a tap is open? I've tried to read up on the "water hammer" sound but not sure how to solve or is this something needs to be solved?

- Black tank flush, it seems one of the label is missing, but I assume it is the black one beside the white tap on the driver's side? is it somewhat sensive in terms of pressure? when I was dump station, everything went smoothly, except when putting a hose into the black tank flush the water would back out of the connection and spill (the hose had no threaded connection).

Thank you all for any feedback you can provide.

Marine359 · 08-29-2022, 10:53 AM

Water pump hammer sound: likely caused by a pressure leak in your water system. First place to look is at the pump connections. The pump is under a luan panel beneath the kitchen sink. Put you finger over the end of the winterizing hose. If there’s no hammer with pump on, you’ve found the problem. Either the winterizing valve is slightly open, or it has failed. Hammering can also be caused by a water heater bypass valve that is not completely open to allow water into the water heater. This may also be the cause of your Truma. running out of water.

Black tank flush. It would not be abnormal for water to spill out from the black flush connection if the hose is not threaded. The pressure of supply water is greater than the amount of water the rinse inside the tank can distribute. Use a dedicated black water flush hose, and this problem should evaporate.

Downytide · 08-29-2022, 11:45 AM

Marine359, thank you for the quick reply!

I'll check this when home, if was the case of the winterizing hose, wouldn't that cause a leak?

Marine359 · 08-29-2022, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downytide

Marine359, thank you for the quick reply!

I'll check this when home, if was the case of the winterizing hose, wouldn't that cause a leak?

Nope. The pump only pumps water in one direction, so if air is getting in through the winterizing hose, water can’t get out through that hose. Hammering occurs when the pump pressurizes the system, and then pressurization is lost, then pump keeps trying to pressurize. Thus hammering.

Downytide · 08-29-2022, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

Nope. The pump only pumps water in one direction, so if air is getting in through the winterizing hose, water can’t get out through that hose. Hammering occurs when the pump pressurizes the system, and then pressurization is lost, then pump keeps trying to pressurize. Thus hammering.

Makes sense, will take a look!

**creativepart** · 08-29-2022, 03:37 PM

Have you looked at the Truma user manual?

https://truma.net/sites/default/file...ting-us-en.pdf

And here's a link to all of the Aqua Go manuals and documents:

https://truma.net/support-and-resources/manuals

As for water pump hammer that's a common problem. It can be due to a leak, or a faulty setting for the water pressure switch on the pump or even air in a new system. After you're sure it's not a leak, try opening multiple faucets at one time on full and see if it will even out. There are dozens of YouTube videos about curing water pump stutter or hammer. A simple easy fix is to add a small expansion tank. They cost $35 on Amazon and are easy DIY installations. Again, YouTube will show you half a dozen install videos.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MVA6GCC?psc=1

Lastly, don't use that nasty hose at the tank dump for anything. It's pretty much a relic of the old days when after dumping people would insert that in the TTs dump connection and slide it up inside to rinse out the plumbing. It's dirty and gross. Get yourself a separate small garden hose 15' or so long then after dumping unscrew that short hose with the cut off end and attach your own new dump hose. Then screw it into the Black tank rise inlet. Be careful, over filling that tank rinse can cause a backup in your RV through the toilet or even out the top via the vent pipe on your roof.

Don't use a hose you use for drinking water on the dump/tank flush keep that hose especially for tank dumping.

Downytide · 08-30-2022, 09:39 AM

I didn't see a leek underneath, nor under the sinks, I did noticed when I bled the fresh water tank, the hammering sound went down by a lot, is the pump suppose to run when any faucet is open? or is it only suppose to pressurized the tank then only comes on when needed?

I also tried to look for the winterize hose under the sink as Marine359 suggested, only issue the panel are screwed down and my drill set is at a friend's, so I'm going back in to take a look at it today, will update you fine folks.

For the truma manual, thank you for that link, we got a giant bag with manuals and bunch of stuff, but I couldn't find that water heater one, I got some readings to do.

Thank you guys for the advices!

Marine359 · 08-30-2022, 09:56 AM

When you bleed the tank through the valve under the fresh water tank, it would make sense that hammering would dissipate because there is a free flow of water. In other words, the pump can’t fully pressurize because you are releasing pressure by having the bleed valve open. The pump should run when any faucet is open, but you’re likely to see reduced pressure as the tank empties.

Downytide · 08-30-2022, 10:25 AM

I should've made it more clear, after I bleed the fresh tank, and closed the valve, then open the faucet(s), the hammering sound went down dramatically.

**creativepart** · 08-30-2022, 12:39 PM

The pressure from the pump is the only pressure seen at the faucets. It does not pressurize the fresh water tank, just the plumbing lines. When you open a faucet the pressure in the pipes drops and the pump comes on to meet the water demand.

You can add - as I mentioned in my post above - an expansion tank and the pump will pressurize the water in the expansion tank. This should shorten pump runs when flushing the toilet or turning on a very brief flow from a faucet.

Downytide · 09-06-2022, 09:52 AM

1 problem solved is the hot water, so turns out I can leave the switch either on Power ON or ON Power, but had to turn the temperature ON on the Truma's control panel inside the trailer, this was I nearly ready to take out the entire heater unit to find out the issue.

We camped at a spot that had water hook up, so for 4 days we ran on city water, but we noticed that the sink hot water hose leaks droplets, could this be the pressure was too high? everything else was solid.

oh and water hammering is back, it went away for a week when testing out the system, but after hooked up to city water (pump was not on), the hammer comes back.

Need to investigate this further, but overall we love the trailer.

naturopath · 09-06-2022, 11:01 AM

Yup! Same here with the kitchen hose hot water hose leaking. It seems that when Winnie messes up they do it on all units. The leak filled the shelf with mold and there is tons of calcified water under it that I have to clean. I had to buy a crimp tool and crimps and then cut the hose back and put a new swivel adapter on. When the drip was fixed and I switched to the stored water tank and the pump, the hammer noise was gone. You do not need the pump on to use city water. It is already pressurized.

Downytide · 09-06-2022, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by naturopath

Yup! Same here with the kitchen hose hot water hose leaking. It seems that when Winnie messes up they do it on all units. The leak filled the shelf with mold and there is tons of calcified water under it that I have to clean. I had to buy a crimp tool and crimps and then cut the hose back and put a new swivel adapter on. When the drip was fixed and I switched to the stored water tank and the pump, the hammer noise was gone. You do not need the pump on to use city water. It is already pressurized.

Do you mind share a photo of how you fixed the hose leak?

Didn't use the pump when hooked up with city water, but when we left and I turn on the pump, it was making hammering noise again.

naturopath · 09-06-2022, 12:14 PM

Hi Downytide:

I don't have a photo to share because it looks exactly like it did before I fixed it. I got the swivel adapter from Home Depot in case that was the problem, shut the water, cut the old crimp off, cut back around 1/2 inch on the hose, shoved the hose into the new adapter and put the new crimp on. Sounds easy but it took days to figure it all out and to deal with all the aggravation! I still have to clean all the water stains and replace the rotted shelf.

I also ended up buying leak sensors from Amazon and placing them all over the RV where leaks could happen. A water leak would destroy this thing. All the cheap wood finish would rot off and mold issues would come quickly. The more we can do to account for that the better. They have leak sensors that connect to wifi also and alert you on your phone as to issues.