Major Solar & Power PROJECT 2022 Minnie 2529RG TT

[No1Hunter]

Well, while my TT was at the dealer for some warranty work, I decided I would accumulate some battery & solar upgrades. I started by watching several YouTube videos, read most, if not all, the post on here on similar projects, asked questions, and even bought a drawing for a person who supposedly specializes in these upgrades (more on that later).

What you see is not an all-inclusive pile, as there just wasn't enough room for it all. The core components consist of:

Four Renolgy 100ah self heating LiFePo4 batteries
Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Inverter/Charger
Victron 500amp Shunt
Two Victron Distributors with "light hack"
Victron 100/30 MPPT Solar Controller (roof solar panels)
Victron 100/20 MPPT Solar Controller (portable solar panels)
Go Power Overlander 190W Solar Expansion Panel

As I will be relying on the Xantrex to charge the LiFePo4 batteries, I completely replace the WFCO WF-8955 AC/DC distribution center/converter with a WFCO WF-8930/50 Distribution Center. While replacing the distribution center, I hardwired a Southwire 35530 120V 30 Amp Surge Guard device.

[No1Hunter]

As you can see with the first picture, the 12v wiring in the distribution panel wasn't very good. PLUS, nothing was labeled. While wiring the 12v circuits, I decided to use ferrules on all the wire ends, including the 6awg. It sure makes for a nice, clean install.

[No1Hunter]

The wire coming out of the Surge Guard goes into a metal junction box where the incoming power goes to the right half of the AC panel as well as it goes to the Xantrex via 10awg RV Extension Cable wire. The AC return from the Xantrex is via 6awg SOOW wire and feeds the left half of the AC panel. I isolated the Air conditioning, water heater and refrigerator to the right side so they can only be use when I have AC power (shore power or generator).

This is where I found the YouTube guy made a huge mistake as he said to use the OEM 30 amp panel but the feed from inverter (he was pushing the Victron 3000) via 6awg wire to a 50 amp breaker. When I pointed out the OEM panels specifically say not to use a breaker larger than 30 amps, he snapped back with a snarky remark. Since then, he has changed his suggestion but has stopped all communications with me. I have since found a couple other issues with his drawing and have asked for clarification but he refuses to reply. So, be careful what these YouTube guys suggest even though they claim to be "install fixers" and are sponsored by Victron & Battle Born.

[No1Hunter]

One thing I did when swapping out my panel was to trace out each circuit with one of these. I also used it to make sure there weren't any wired inside the wall or below the floor where I was drilling holes.

[No1Hunter]

I decided to post this project under the TT Forum rather than the Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics forum as it is specifically for Winnebago Travel Trailer. I suppose there could be some crossover between TT and motor home, but if I received a question, I may not be able to answer it.

This was another issue I had with the YouTube guy and his drawings. He is also in the business to sell wire and other components. His suggestion, and "typical TT drawing" show a negative cable running from the battery to the DC panel, while a typical TT uses the TT's frame. When asked if there was an advantage to using a wire rather than a cable run, he deletes my question from the blog and refuses to answer it. My guess is he wants to sell copper cable!

If the mods feel this should be in the Electrical | Charging, Solar and Electronics forum, they are free to move it. I may post a link to this over there in case someone would like to follow it.

[Morich]

So some questions are okay? I would like some info on the tone and tracer. I have one that gets me by for what I do but it is one that I "retired" with back in 1997!
That means it gets very little use and gets by but likely not the better quality I might like when really needed.
I'm a tool guy and might like to upgrade this but I need to know more money would get me better. So how do you feel about using it on RV stuff?
Brand, model, and money involved?
The problem with having tools is they tend to get me into more work! But if better tools means less work, I'm for that !

[No1Hunter]

Ah yes, questions are fine as are suggestions. After all, that is how we all learn.

This is the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-Track...1416545&sr=8-3

I actually bought it to trace out circuits and wires in walls in my previous home, as the breaker box was unlabeled. I also located a break in a direct burial wire the previous owner must have cut with a shovel and then "repaired." There was one gable outlet I was never able to trace out, and it was not powered.

I also use a cheaper version where you plugged a transmitter unit into an outlet and the receiver would beep at the breaker. But, it didn't work for a broken/terminated wire, plus it wasn't very accurate. You got within 2 or three breakers.

When I couldn't locate my Cat 5 tracer, I built an adapter for Cat 5 cable that you plug into a Cat 5 jack, and I was able to ID the cable at the distribution box. I guess you can locate pipe in the ground with it and if you can push a wire into a PVC pipe, you can locate it. But, I haven't tried that.

While trying to straighten out the wiring mess behind my TT power panel, two wires came loose from a relay (actually pulled out of the ring terminal). Great, that meant they were very tight to begin with. Anyway, it appears they were for the tank heater. So, I hooked the tracer to the loose wire and took the hand unit over to the switch on the control panel. BEEP!! Found it! I was right.

[tinglett]

Speaking of tools and such, do you have specific ferrules and crimper you like? I've been meaning to start doing that, but haven't taken the time to look around to see what's available. I was thinking the nastier spots needing ferrules are the heavier gauge multi-strand wires going into the converters and such, but the neatness in the 12v distribution panel would be nice, too.

For sure I'll be watching your progress! I've been happy with my setup, but as a tinkerer I'll probably tweak things here and there, and it's always interesting to see someone else's approach. Keep the posts coming!

[No1Hunter]

Todd,

I actually have two ferrule crimpers, one that make square crimps and one that makes hexagonal crimps. Both are "self-adjusting" to a degree rather than the fixed jaw type. I bought the square crimper first. In fact, the first one I bought was a side entry type, but I returned it as I didn't care for the crimps. I didn't care for it. I then bought a front entry type and liked the crimps better, though they are not perfectly square. Yes, I am a little picky!!! This one came with a 1200 piece assortment of ferrules, which, like buying a ring terminal assortment, you get a bunch of stuff you may never use and didn't have the 6awg ferrules. So I had to buy a package (life-time supply) of them. But the whole kit was a couple bucks more than the tool alone. The tool is some off brand (Zhushan) version.

The hexagonal version is an IWISS brand and does a pretty good job. I used it mainly for wiring the inverter and the main breaker in my new power distribution panel. Could I have gotten along with just one? Probably, but there was just something about putting a square peg in a round hole! In fact, someone on YouTube suggested just putting the ferrule on the wire and letting the screw terminal crush it to the proper shape. However, I preferred to have the entire ferrule/wire strands formed as one unit.

The main thing to watch is to make sure what ever crimper you get, it crimps the side you want. Very few crimp 6awg. Most stop at 7awg (???). Both versions I have crimp up to 5awg, thus covering the 6awg wite I am using.

[No1Hunter]

This is the Victron Distribution light hack. There are a couple different versions on the internet. This one seems to work fine. At least it passed my bench testing.

[No1Hunter]

As I am installing the batteries in the storage area under the bed, the main fuse, disconnect, Victron Shunt and one Victron Distributor will be located here. I reinforced the thin plywood prior to installing the components. In fact, I laid out the components on it, predrilling the mounting screw holes before installing the sheeting under the bed.

Again, prior to cutting the access holes to the pass-though, I used my circuit tracer to make sure there were no wires present. It did pickup the shore power wired I ran to my inverter that is mounted in the pass-though, but no wires were in the area where I cut the two access holes. Notice I am using flexible desk grommets (on both sides of the wall) to protect the wires and semi-seal the hole. I used these in every hole I cut for wire access.

I cut the holes from both side in order to make a clean hole. I stop short of going all the way through with the hole saw, but allowed the pilot bit to breaker through. That way, I could use that hoe from the pass-through side. Notice I covered the heater vent to help keep sawdust out of it.

[No1Hunter]

Well, my project is moving forward in between doing Spring Honey-do's!! I tested the inverter/charger on battery power and shore power without any issues, except I needed a comm cable longer than 25 feet for the Xantrex remote panel. So, I ordered a shielded exterior/direct burial rated cable with RJ12 jackets only to find out it is not compatible, for some reason, with the Xantrex inverter/charger. It has metal plugs that are bonded to the shielding, and that might be the issue. I tested it with the 25-foot cable and everything works find. So, I ordered some plastic plugs and will try replacing them. Otherwise, I will end up buying the Xantrex 50- foot cable and redo the run.

One interesting I found when I pulled the GoPower solar controller was the wires running to the battery had a fuse holder inline and that was inside the front wall. So, if anyone has an issue with their solar not charging the battery, you will want to see if that hidden fuse had blown!!!

Also, the factory drawings show the wires are red and black, but mine are both white with the positive also having a blue stripe.

[No1Hunter]

Well, I thought I would give a little update. Here is my battery compartment. I still need to add the fuse for the DC to DC charger in the pass-through. Thus, the red lights.

I built all my own cables except the ones used on the batteries as they needed to be exactly the same size. I sure wish I could find some snap-on cable guards to fit over the battery terminals.

All the cables used on the batteries to the Distributor and to the Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000 Inverter/Charger as well as the chassis ground are 4/0 copper.

[No1Hunter]

This is the Victron Distributor in the pass-through. It connects the solar controllers to the batteries via the Distributor in the battery compartment. It also provides power to the DC Distribution panel in the back of the TT via the OEM disconnect switch. I also added a disconnect switch to back-feed the trailer brakes and tongue jack. I did this, so I could turn off the tongue jack while camped (one more security feature).

One issue using the Victron Distributor is fuse sizes. Though the "YouTube Guy" just uses 60 amp fuse even though component/wire calls for less, I refuse to do that. My Victron 100/20 solar controller required 30 amp fusing. So, I am building a work-around for that so the light will still work on the Distributor. I should have the done tomorrow if the part arrives.

The black wire coming up under the DC to DC charger is not connected to anything. I am using it to measurer the length of the cables that will plug into my truck. I should have that finished also tomorrow.

[No1Hunter]

These are the solar controller in the pass-through. The 100/30 goes to the panel on the roof while the 100/20 is for my portable panels. I was planning on installing Zamp ports on each side of the TT, but I decided just to mount one port in an outdoor metal box in the middle of the front frame cross member.
It is easily accessed from both sides. I pulled new marine grade 10 gauge wiring in using the old OEM wire.

I decided to use the Zamp port because I found the port cover to be much more secure than the aftermarket ones I bought, as well as the Go Power port I removed from the pass-through.

While updating the solar controllers, I added some plywood to support them considering the wall material in the front is basically heavy paper. While doing that, I decide to remove the "TireLink" port, as I was and will never use it.

[Old Navy]

Looking good. I don't think my wife would buy into giving up that storage area at the foot of the bed. At least, not ALL of it. Your trailer is the model that replaced mine, and is almost the same layout. A couple questions, if you don't mind.

I see you installed an Orion TR Smart. Are you planning on adding heavier gauge wiring on your TV, or just using the standard 7-pin trailer connector? I haven't seen many DC-DC chargers on travel trailers.

Any features that pulled you to the Xantrex inverter/charger over the Victron? I already have Victron MPPT SCC's and BVM-712, so am leaning toward the Multiplus.

Where is that vent you show covered in post #11?

[tinglett]

Bob,

If you get a moment can you comment on your thinking about using the Victron distribution solution vs bogstandard bus bars? It certainly is nice and tidy, and I can see the value of individual fuses, but I'm wondering if you have some practical experience that directly guided you down this path, or maybe you just think like I usually do, and that's to get it right and done so you don't need to be in there again down the road .

I'll also second the motion on the Orion TR Smart. I've been thinking of getting one and will be very curious to see what kind of amps it can draw out of your tow vehicle. For 4-day weekends I leave my generator at home, but for a long trip it sure would be nice if a 5hr drive to the next location could top it back up again (I have only 200Ah).

[No1Hunter]

I see you installed an Orion TR Smart. Are you planning on adding heavier gauge wiring on your TV, or just using the standard 7-pin trailer connector? I haven't seen many DC-DC chargers on travel trailers.

I just finished wiring the DC to DC charger truck connection about 30 minutes ago and will be posting some pictures in a couple of days once I hook it up to my truck. Taking a hike first thing in the morning, and I am not sure if we will get back in time to do it tomorrow.
But, to answer your question, I ran 6awg wire from my truck's battery to an Anderson connector on my back bumper, and then I ran 6awg wire from another Anderson connector to the charger.

Any features that pulled you to the Xantrex inverter/charger over the Victron? I already have Victron MPPT SCC's and BVM-712, so am leaning toward the Multiplus.

Either one will do the job but I chose the Xantrex because of the difference in weight

Victron 3000 - 40lbs

Xantex 3000 - 18.6 lbs

Xantex 2000 - 17.1 lbs

And their output rating is actually watts, not volt amps

Xantex 2000:
Continuous Power 2000 W @40ºC True sine wave

Victron 2000:
Cont. output power at 40°C 1400 W
And it appears the Victron only puts out a max of 1600W

Cont. output power at 25°C 2000 VA
Cont. output power at 25°C 1600 W

Xantex 3000:
Continuous Power 3000 W @40ºC True sine wave

The Victron 3000 (Voltamps) unit is also very similar:

Cont. output power at 25ºC / 77°F (VA) 3000
Cont. output power at 25ºC / 77°F (W) 2400
Cont. output power at 40ºC / 104°F (W) 2200

I was actually looking at the Victron 2000 until I saw it only put out 1400 watts. So, I started leaning towards the Xantex 2000 but ran across a deal on the 3000. So I bought it just incase I decide to upgrade my TT to a 50 amp service (I ran 6awg SOOW wire to the inverter AC input).

Where is that vent you show covered in post #11?

It is in the pass-though

[No1Hunter]

If you get a moment can you comment on your thinking about using the Victron distribution solution vs bogstandard bus bars? It certainly is nice and tidy, and I can see the value of individual fuses, but I'm wondering if you have some practical experience that directly guided you down this path, or maybe you just think like I usually do, and that's to get it right and done so you don't need to be in there again down the road .

Oh, it started with the YouTube dude and his analysis of the cost vs bus bars, short cables w/ connectors and fuse holders. I started to use a Victron "Power In" with the fuse modification but decided just to buy the Disributors. Again, found some deals! They are a very stout piece of equipment.

I'll also second the motion on the Orion TR Smart. I've been thinking of getting one and will be very curious to see what kind of amps it can draw out of your tow vehicle. For 4-day weekends I leave my generator at home, but for a long trip it sure would be nice if a 5hr drive to the next location could top it back up again (I have only 200Ah).

The DC to DC charger was kind of an afterthought, and I am not sure if it is really worth it. But, I had it and decided to install it.
If anything, should we leave our generator home and run out of power, I will be able to power the slide, stabilizers, and tongue jack to get us home. Plus, I can use the power out on the truck to power my air compressor without turning the truck around and lifting the hood.

[Old Navy]

I have the dual 220A alternators, so the TR Smart with a wiring upgrade could provide a nice alternative charging path.

Nice having heat in your pass through (if you put your batteries there). My Minnie doesn't have a vent there as far as I recall.