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Old 11-24-2020, 06:15 AM   #1
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Question Installing Dometic 310 toilet in a 2100BH

My wife and daughter are not fans of the Dometic 300 plastic toilet in our Micro Minnie 2100BH. I'd like to install the Dometic 310.

Unfortunately, it appears the clearance with the rear wall is insufficient. The distance from the wall to the toilet mounting bolts for the existing 300 is 8.75" on my trailer. The absolute minimum required distance on the 310 looks like roughly 9.25".

Has anyone else run into this problem?

Thank you.
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:58 AM   #2
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It looks like a few folks have reported success with similar measurements (on Facebook). I'll give it a try and let you know. Maybe a geometric miracle occurs.
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Old 11-24-2020, 12:39 PM   #3
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The Dometic website says it's a 10" minimum clearance.

I was going to suggest the 320 because it's a better toilet, but it has an 11" minimum clearance.
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Old 11-24-2020, 01:46 PM   #4
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I just installed it. It fits, albeit barely. It is just touching the rear wall.
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Old 01-22-2023, 04:38 PM   #5
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Hi,

I'm in the same predicament here. We have the 2018 2100bh. Were you happy with the 310? Any updates you would like to share would be awesome.
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Old 01-22-2023, 05:38 PM   #6
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Everyone was very pleased with the 310. It was the best single upgrade I made to the trailer.
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Old 01-22-2023, 05:51 PM   #7
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Backtrack15,

Thanks so much for letting me know ��
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Old 01-25-2023, 06:09 AM   #8
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As posted, rough in on the Dometic 310 is 10 inches and the 320 is 11 inches minimum according to Dometic.. Rough in on the 300 is 8 1/2 inches. Measure twice to insure it will fit. We replaced ours (2021 Minnie 2529RG) with a Thetford Aqua-Magic II (porcelain bowl) . Seems to have a bit of a larger bowl. Just be careful of the rough-in requirements. We had about a half inch to spare. Also added a slow close lid from Lowe's. Note: Easier to install the lid onto the toilet before installing the toilet in the bathroom.
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Old 01-25-2023, 08:29 PM   #9
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Travelkids, that is a tight fit! Thanks for sharing. I will receive the dometic 310 this Friday. Hopefully by Sunday I'll get around to installing it. I'll take a pic when I'm finished ��
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Old 01-26-2023, 06:45 AM   #10
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Our 310 touches the rear wall as well, but it’s such a massive improvement over the original 300.
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Old 01-28-2023, 08:58 AM   #11
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Our 310 touches the rear wall as well, but it’s such a massive improvement over the original 300.
Thanks for sharing! I received my 310 from Amazon yesterday. Going to the trailer on Sunday to start the install!
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Old 01-30-2023, 08:01 PM   #12
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Okay, so the toilet came in on Friday. I wasn't able to get to the trailer until Sunday. I ended up having great difficulty getting the new toilet flange to screw all the way in. Worked on it all day to no avail.

Monday morning I had a better idea to get more leverage to tighten it. I used two screwdrivers opposite of each other in the screw holes. Then I used a crowbar in between them, and finally was able to do it 👍

Now the install of the 310 went okay. However, the toilet went right up to the back wall of the bathroom with no room in between. So, this caused the toilet to not sit completely flat in the back.

Do you guys think this will cause a leak or smell at the back bottom where the toilet meets the flange? I was thinking that if it doesn't, I would seal it with caulking.

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Old 01-31-2023, 05:36 AM   #13
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Camping Life,
I'm not understanding why you replaced the (Black) toilet flange. The 310 should have aligned with what was originally installed by Winnebago with the 300.
Yes, I think there is the potential for a leak or smells if the 310 is not sitting flush on the black toilet flange. Caulking will only trap debris / liquid.
You did replace the flange seal (soft rubber foam) gasket, didn't you??
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:14 PM   #14
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Camping Life,
I'm not understanding why you replaced the (Black) toilet flange. The 310 should have aligned with what was originally installed by Winnebago with the 300.
Yes, I think there is the potential for a leak or smells if the 310 is not sitting flush on the black toilet flange. Caulking will only trap debris / liquid.
You did replace the flange seal (soft rubber foam) gasket, didn't you??
When I removed the old toilet, the flange was cracked and all the screws were rotted out. It must have been leaking.

If you are talking about the new soft rubber foam seal that goes around the bottom of the toilet before it connects to the floor flange, then yes.

Yeah, that is my concern. The wall is preventing it from sitting flat 😔
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Old 02-02-2023, 05:56 AM   #15
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When I removed the old toilet, the flange was cracked and all the screws were rotted out. It must have been leaking.

If you are talking about the new soft rubber foam seal that goes around the bottom of the toilet before it connects to the floor flange, then yes.

Yeah, that is my concern. The wall is preventing it from sitting flat 😔
You definitely want it to sit flat. You may be able to effectively move the flange away from the wall by widening or elongating the mounting holes with a drill/dremel.
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Old 02-02-2023, 06:21 AM   #16
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You definitely want it to sit flat. You may be able to effectively move the flange away from the wall by widening or elongating the mounting holes with a drill/dremel.
I would not recommend trying to enlarge / e longing the flange mounting holes. The toilet gasket must sit in the flange properly.
I would consider scarfing out he wall behind the toilet to get the extra space needed for the toilet to sit flat. An easy job? Most likely not, but in my opinion, that’s the best alternative.
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Old 02-02-2023, 06:41 AM   #17
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I would not recommend trying to enlarge / e longing the flange mounting holes. The toilet gasket must sit in the flange properly.
I would consider scarfing out he wall behind the toilet to get the extra space needed for the toilet to sit flat. An easy job? Most likely not, but in my opinion, that’s the best alternative.
Moving the flange 1/4” or so isn’t going to change how the gasket sits inside of it, the mounting holes are outside of that. I’d find a different toilet before “Scarfing out the wall” .
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Old 02-02-2023, 08:58 AM   #18
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Rbarbot2, I appreciate your input. However, I wouldn't be able to move the flange because the neck that is affixed to the black tank isn't going to move away from where it already is.

Travelkids, I think you are right. I'm going to have to manipulate the wall some how. Going camping in two days, so we might have to go with out using it for now 😔
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Old 02-02-2023, 09:05 AM   #19
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Rbarbot2, I appreciate your input. However, I wouldn't be able to move the flange because the neck that is affixed to the black tank isn't going to move away from where it already is.

Travelkids, I think you are right. I'm going to have to manipulate the wall some how. Going camping in two days, so we might have to go with out using it for now 😔

Good luck. I only suggested scarfing out the wall behind the wall if you didn't have any other options.
That's why I opted for the Tetford aqua magic II - the "rough in" dimensions were close enough to the actual room I had available,
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Old 02-02-2023, 03:44 PM   #20
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Just so you know.
Behind the rear wall is only batting insulation. So, it may be possible to etch out just enough space around the toilet where it meets the rear wall so the 310 will seat without affecting rear wall integrity. If it’s jus a quarter inch, shouldn’t be a problem.
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