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Old 05-12-2020, 01:04 PM   #1
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Honda Generator

What do I need to plug my 2108DS into a Honda EU2200i Generator. I see the Honda EU2200i Companion has a dedicated outlet for RV plug and is more expensive.
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Old 05-12-2020, 01:14 PM   #2
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Pretty sure you want the model with the 30-amp plug. What good is the 12v? We had two Honda 2000i gens and never used the 12v outlet once in the 10-years we owned ours.

Then you just need to plug your RV power cord into the generator's receptical. Note, running your fridge and water heater on propane will help the Honda charge your batteries more efficiently.

To run your air conditioning you may need two Honda's paired together or buy a more powerful model. The 3000i can run your a/c with ease. Many people add special easy start capacitors to their a/c and swear the Honda run's it without issue. But you'll find just as many that claim no luck with that plan. With two Honda's they are made to be paired with a special cable and put out 4,000w of power.
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Old 05-12-2020, 02:53 PM   #3
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I don't know the outlet numbers and need to run out, but I doubt many 2200 watt generators have 30 amp outlets, although their parallel devices might. But in any case, I think generators tend to come with 30 amp outlets that twist/lock, while RVs are just straight push in. Should be a simple adapter, but again no time to look.
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Old 05-12-2020, 03:07 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodspike View Post
I don't know the outlet numbers and need to run out, but I doubt many 2200 watt generators have 30 amp outlets, although their parallel devices might. But in any case, I think generators tend to come with 30 amp outlets that twist/lock, while RVs are just straight push in. Should be a simple adapter, but again no time to look.
A single 2200i does not put out 30-amp but accommodates 30-amp plugs from your RV with a $22 Camco. If paired with another Honda 2000i or 2200i it will put out 30 amp.

When I owned my 2000i, I DIYed a 30-amp RV receptacle on a short 20-amp cord. for something like $10. This was before they offered a model with a 30-amp twist receptacle. When I got my second 2000i I bought a non-honda brand parallel cable that also had a 30-amp non-twist receptacle.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:39 PM   #5
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Thanks everybody all helpful
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:54 PM   #6
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The twist outlet I'm thinking of is a NEMA L5-30P. You can Google it to see what it looks like. I can't find the official name for the RV style 30 amp with the slanted prongs.

Your generator may have a NEMA 5-20 outlet, which looks a lot like a normal outlet but the right side is either a T lying on it's side (likely) or horizontal (unlikely). That's rated for 20 amps rather than the typical 15. I doubt it makes a difference to get an adapter plug with that NEMA 5-20 style plug, but you should check its rating.
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Old 05-13-2020, 07:18 PM   #7
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The EU2200 will run a lot in your RV, with a Microair Easy start 368 it will run the airco with little bit left for charging ect or run the water heater on it’s own (12A) don’t bother with the parallell unit just for the plug as indeed the max output is 18.33A on a single unit.

I went from Ryobi 2300 to Honda EU2200 to Predator 3500 and Hyundai HY2000si (79cc)

The Hyundai is just about the quietest one of all i’ve had but maxes out at 2000w/1600w

The EU2200 has a heavy hum under max load, it’s a 121cc vs the old 98cc engine in the EU2000 model

For the weight/power the EU2200 does great but
would not discount an EU2000
The Honda 3000i is way too heavy but very quiet, the Honda “Handy” 3000 is noisy but still portable @ 77lbs


Not that it matters much for most campers but the one that starts like it’s summer @ 20f is the predator 3500. Just the 100+ lbs makes it a bone to lift.
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Old 05-17-2020, 04:47 PM   #8
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An EU2000 reliably ran the AC on my 33 foot Jayco Eagle at 800 feet above seal level. There are a couple of tricks, though. Make sure the fridge and WH are on gas, click off the breaker to the charger. When you strt the AC, start with the fan first. Let it run a minute of so before you click on the AC. It will grunt, but it will run it. I then usually put the thermostat as low as it would go so the compressor would stay on. I also took off the eco setting on the genset until the compressor started, then I switched it back.

The problem witht he EU2000 is that the stock tank never made it through the night. If I was using it now, I would convert it to propane so it would run through the night. I may carry a gas EU1000 that I would pair with it to get the compressor started, it it needed it. Once the compressor started you could turn off the EU1000. I know propane will cause it to lose some power. I just don't know how much.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:50 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by jspringator View Post
I know propane will cause it to lose some power. I just don't know how much.
It must be another thread this was discussed, but you cannot assume propane (or NG) will cause a generator to lose power. The power the generator produces will depend on the power the engine can produce. A generator with a relatively small or inefficient engine relative to another generator will be more likely to be affected by fuel, but a larger or more efficient engine less likely. You really need to test the generator under load to see how it is affected.

And the power a fuel produces at a given volume also isn't all that relevant. My tri-fuel generator requires an adjustment when running on natural gas to let in more fuel (and also change spark plug gap). Is that adjustment in fuel enough to make up for the less dense power of NG? I have no idea because except possibly during startup of electric motors I don't begin to tax my generator, and it does fine starting things up. I've never tried to test maximum load because I haven't needed to. (BTW, this is a generator I use for home use, not RV use.)
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