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Old 01-13-2022, 11:39 PM   #1
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Accessing under floor of Micro Minnie

I'm getting ready to install an inverter up in the forward pass through compartment of our 2108FBS and will need to run wire back to the breaker panel. I'd like to run it under the floor and am wondering if anyone else has pulled down the belly shield to gain access under there. If so, how did it go? My other option is to just run flexible conduit down along the frame and just come up where I need to.



The overall project is installing 4 100Ah Battle Born Lithium batteries, Victron 3000w inverter/charger, 30 amp DC/DC charger and new solar controller. The batteries are going under the bed and the equipment in the storage compartment. I'll add 3 more 200w solar panels on the roof. This was my "next year" project but once I got it all planned I decided to just get it done now and be able to use the extra capability.
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:37 AM   #2
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I had to run wiring for a Victron Battery Monitor from my tongue-mounted batteries to the breaker panel in my 1708FB. What I did was unscrew one of the aluminum strips holding the front-most black belly shield to get to the hole where wiring came up through the floor. And then gently pry up the black plastic shield to get my hand in there to fish the wires through. It wasn't too big of a deal and it all went back together in good shape.


In my 1708FB, the hole through the floor was next to the hot water heater and the wiring then went back under the fridge to the breaker panel. All on top of the floor, not underneath the floor. Is yours the same?
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:43 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geewizard View Post
I had to run wiring for a Victron Battery Monitor from my tongue-mounted batteries to the breaker panel in my 1708FB. What I did was unscrew one of the aluminum strips holding the front-most black belly shield to get to the hole where wiring came up through the floor. And then gently pry up the black plastic shield to get my hand in there to fish the wires through. It wasn't too big of a deal and it all went back together in good shape.


In my 1708FB, the hole through the floor was next to the hot water heater and the wiring then went back under the fridge to the breaker panel. All on top of the floor, not underneath the floor. Is your's the same?

Thank you, that's what I was hoping to hear. My layout is a bit different and I've got a big hole right behind the breaker panel, under the stove.
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Old 01-14-2022, 09:55 AM   #4
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Curious to hear how this setup works for you! I've been considering a similar setup, albeit with 2 - 320A Lithionics batteries. Will you be using a Victron MPTT solar controller as well?
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Old 01-14-2022, 10:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jwiebe View Post
Curious to hear how this setup works for you! I've been considering a similar setup, albeit with 2 - 320A Lithionics batteries. Will you be using a Victron MPTT solar controller as well?

I'll post something with pictures and a write up once I get it all finished. Yes, using the Victron MPPT 150/85 solar controller. Also not mentioned is the Victron BMV 700 battery monitor and the bluetooth smart dongle that connects to the inverter to allow control from an app on your phone. I bought it all through Battle Born and they'll program the inverter for you if you tell them your battery setup.



I found a guy that's put together a bunch of plans and videos on Explorist.life and I'm using one of his plans. His videos and plans are super detailed. He also has a power audit spreadsheet you can download to figure out your sizing needs.
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Old 01-14-2022, 05:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyb View Post
I'm getting ready to install an inverter up in the forward pass through compartment of our 2108FBS and will need to run wire back to the breaker panel. I'd like to run it under the floor and am wondering if anyone else has pulled down the belly shield to gain access under there. If so, how did it go? My other option is to just run flexible conduit down along the frame and just come up where I need to.



The overall project is installing 4 100Ah Battle Born Lithium batteries, Victron 3000w inverter/charger, 30 amp DC/DC charger and new solar controller. The batteries are going under the bed and the equipment in the storage compartment. I'll add 3 more 200w solar panels on the roof. This was my "next year" project but once I got it all planned I decided to just get it done now and be able to use the extra capability.
Hi Randy
Both Fred2106DS and I have done this, and we have both posted pictures in our albums, which you can access by clicking on our names. No need to to remove the corroplast. Just drill through floor near the frame rail in the pass thru, run your wires down and back along the frame rail, then drill up under the kitchen sink. Connecting to the panel is easy from there. Run your remote panel wires through the same holes. You can use romex and conduit, or 30amp rv shore power cord. (50ft cut in half). Takes some gymnastics. If your as old as me, youíll need to hire someone younger to do the squeeze work. Pm either of us for help.
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Old 01-14-2022, 06:27 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Marine359 View Post
Hi Randy
Both Fred2106DS and I have done this, and we have both posted pictures in our albums, which you can access by clicking on our names. No need to to remove the corroplast. Just drill through floor near the frame rail in the pass thru, run your wires down and back along the frame rail, then drill up under the kitchen sink. Connecting to the panel is easy from there. Run your remote panel wires through the same holes. You can use romex and conduit, or 30amp rv shore power cord. (50ft cut in half). Takes some gymnastics. If your as old as me, youíll need to hire someone younger to do the squeeze work. Pm either of us for help.

Thanks, Jim. Nice clean looking install!
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Old 01-19-2022, 05:59 PM   #8
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Transition question.

I have installed a Lithium Hub Ionic LifeP04 100AH and 1200 watt inverter as a separate independent electric circuit with 2 plug-ins on each side of the bed on my 2106 FBS. This setup works fine for what I want to do at this time. The factory electric system is original and not connected in any way to the lithium set up. There will come a time though for the two lead acid batteries for the house will need to be replaced. I am thinking about using my current Ionic lithium battery as the sole source of battery power and possibly adding an additional 100 AH battery. So my questions are:
1. Do I really need to replace the charger/converter that came from the factory? I know it doesnít have the correct charging profile for lithium however I do not want to charge lithiumís beyond 80%. I understand that charging to 100% shortens their life and from what Iíve seen, 80% is just right. I believe my current charger should do the charging requirement of 80% in this case. The charge voltage is very close to a lithium charging voltage if I remember right. If Iím missing something important here, please advise.
2. In the possible conversion to lithium, how much of an issue will it be regarding the tow vehicle alternator? Iíve seen the Victron video where they burn up an alternator. Remember they are selling something and vendors can do all sorts of gadgetry to get one to buy their stuff. Lithiums suck in lots of energy when charging but the power wire in the 7 pin trailer connection is a relatively tiny gauge wire that is not capable of handling high amperage loads. The only thing I want to power while traveling would be the gas/electric fridge. Otherwise everything in the trailer could be dead except for trailer brakes and Iím not sure how to solve that issue without a DC/DC converter coming off the alternator. One option could be a small battery/inverter dedicated for traveling for the fridge with a switch on/off for convenience but that doesnít address the need for electric brakes. Sounds like a DC/DC unit is a requirement and no other option is available. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Once Iím camping, my generator and solar panel keep my batteries going without fail as long as the sun shines and I have gas or propane. I do have a small 10amp lithium charger to use when the generator is on which is about 2-3 hours per day. My current daily amp hour usage is about 35-50 amp hours per day depending on how extravagant we want to be.
Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions you might forward.
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Old 01-19-2022, 06:25 PM   #9
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1. Your existing charger will charge your LiFePo4, although, as you know, the profile does not match, but will not harm the battery. You just won’t be able to get all 100% of your battery capacity. I don’t know who started the rumor that it’s better for your LiFePo4 if you only charge it to 80%. IMHO, that’s bogus. If there’s any reduction at all in lifetime cycles, it’s minuscule. You buy a LiFePo4 precisely because you can use 100% of its rated amphrs.

2. If you have a concern about tv alternator abuse due to draw from a LiFePo4, you don’t have to connect the 12v 7-pin to the battery, but you do have to wire the 12v circuit to serve running lights, brake lights, and brakes. Mine is connected to battery, and I haven’t had any alternator issues, probably because there’s so little amperage going down that wire.

3. If you have rooftop solar, I question the worth of a dc/dc charger. We don’t currently have rooftop solar, but will be installing soon. A 200w panel should provide all the charge current you might want on drive days, obviating the need for a dc/dc charger. Some will disagree with that notion. But, unless you’re really good at DIY wiring on your tv, it’s not worth attempting, because it’s expensive, and difficult to run the appropriate gauge wire from your tv alternator to the trailer. The 7-pin wire gauge is too small.
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Old Yesterday, 06:49 AM   #10
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LiFeP04 is a completely different chemistry than Lithium Ion (LI). Your theory on charging to 80% to extend battery life applies to LI only. Storage is another topic altogether.

https://www.grepow.com/blog/charging...mer-batteries/

LiFeP04 is meant to be exercised with a correct profile (bulk/absorption/float) that can only be provided from a correct charger/controller.

If taken care of and charged correctly, depending on the manufacturer, LiFeP04 will get between 3000-5000 cycles. Even then you'll still have 80% capacity. That's 10 years minimum IF you charge them every day and will most likely outlast the life of your RV.
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