2108DS 2020 Review - Page 2

Marine359 · 11-11-2020, 11:37 AM

Oh, BTW:
We solved the problem with lack of reading lamps by using our rechargeable headlamps. They work great, are adjustable for angle and brightness, and don’t cost much, or you can buy cheap clamp on rechargeable reading lamps on Amazon. Either solution is far far less money and hassle than hard wiring reading lamps.

MicroMinnie · 11-11-2020, 11:56 AM

Marine359, which fridge do you have the 6 or 8cu ?
all 6’s were Lp/12v , will be a pile of complaints coming if WB switches to 12v/120 only...

tinglett · 11-11-2020, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

Last week we took delivery of a new 2108ds “B” model

Congratulations on your new trailer!

I suspect you'll get huge agreements on your points. I totally agree about the access panels. I'm still fairly new to RVs but I nearly fell over when I realized "That's it? That's really an access panel?" But then again, just look under the hood of your GMC Canyon and compare the build qualities, and, well, night and day different.

I'm not following the comment about the usb port locations. Mine are right under the cabinet doors on the side of the bed (but only one side which is also silly and I need to "fix"). Sounds like they moved them to a worse location? Else I'm maybe underestimating the awkwardness to plug in.

I agree with the fridge. I thankfully got an absorption (propane) version since we also dry camp almost exclusively. I thought I read this may have been an option for the newer models. That is, I wonder if the dealer could switch it. I haven't ever dealt with a dealer with such a thing before so some readers may be laughing now.

Oh the crinkle, crinkle, crinkle sound of the toilet always makes me roll my eyes and think about replacing it. But maybe an overall assessment might be the Minnesota saying "it could be worse?"

Marine359 · 11-11-2020, 02:24 PM

We have the 8cuft 12v fridge. We were in kind of a hurry to leave the dealership and get on the road, so I didn’t notice it until we set up camp. I really would like to swap it out for a 12v/LLP fridge, but I know that will cost a lot of moola, plus labor costs for running the LP line. I suppose I’ll have to settle for solar and better batteries. The USB ports are on the front wall way under the closets.

**creativepart** · 11-11-2020, 02:36 PM

Congats!

There is no indication that Winnebago reads anything here. If they do they keep it totally secret.

The 12v fridge is popular with many so that’s likely why they chose it. But isn’t it optional? I thought it was. To boondock with it you’ll need to upgrade your battery bank and possibly add some solar. Not cheap, I know.

UPDATE: I just looked at the 2021 Model and the 12v fridge is Standard... but a gas/electric fridge was available as an option. Too bad this wasn't noticed before your purchase.

tinglett · 11-12-2020, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marine359

The USB ports are on the front wall way under the closets.

I looked at the photos on the Winnebago website and now understand. Your cabinets are "floating" above the sides, and I assume the USB ports are tucked way under there. My cabinets go all the way down and adjoin with the flat space on the sides. The USB ports and 120v outlet are on the flat space on the front. I can kind of see why they think the new design is better, but I'm not so sure they got it right.

Marine359 · 11-12-2020, 07:18 AM

Although I would have much preferred a 12v/LP fridge, if I had ordered it from the factory, it would have meant a six month wait (according to a factory rep i spoke with). Paying for a dealer installation will probably cost more than the cost of lithium batteries and solar panel. I suppose I shouldn’t complain because I got a really sweet deal on the trailer. Thanks for your input.

backtrack15 · 11-13-2020, 03:39 PM

I get it. In the age of CV19, sometimes you have to be a bit flexible. It's a long story, but I ended up buying a 2100BH instead of the 2306BHS I ordered (I waited forever and it arrived with the wrong axles and poor build quality). I now view it as a blessing, as we really love our "everything you need, nothing you don't" 2100BH.

Marine359 · 11-13-2020, 03:48 PM

Congrats Backtrack.
Hopefully you got the 3,000 axles and 5,500 gvwr.
That combo tows like a dream.
Build quality is a relative thing. Micro Minnie may be Grade “C”, but everything else is truly poor, grade “D” or worse, except Lance and Airstream, neither of which we could afford. Have fun and be safe.

backtrack15 · 11-13-2020, 04:21 PM

Dual-mode fridge and 2500/5000 on mine. I definitely would have preferred 3000/5500 but we actually don’t need the extra capacity. I’ll upgrade the axles if we end up needing it. It tows very well so no complaints. Enjoy yours as well!

Edit: If anyone cares, it appears the 2.5K axles are mechanically identical to those rated 3000 and 3500 with the exception of the length of the rubber cords inside the axle tube. This is what I’ve deciphered from looking at the online Dexter information.

Pauldridge · 02-16-2021, 08:38 AM

That's a bummer they went to the 12V only fridge in your new version. Although I wish ours had that option to minimize Propane use when on the road (albeit minimal, no doubt).

We do lust after the no gas oven/ with microwave/convection combo as an alternative such as I discussed above. We have since used our convection oven multiple times and it works great and for us, much preferred. We rarely use the microwave, but the convection is where it's at (Of course, a deal breaker for boondockers!). After installing the convection oven, I completely removed the lower floor, rack, gas burner, and pilot assembly from the oven to give us more storage space there. It's pretty simple.. ONE screw holds the apallingly anemic burner rod (about the diameter of a cigar) to the pan, 4 screws hold the pan in, then 2 screws to remove aft burner from the pilot assembly, which can then be easily and gently bent back against the rear wall. Everything is carefully packed away in my garage 'bago spot in case we should ever choose to recommission the oven.

I too hate the cheesy access panels held with a couple of screws. There is a lot of useful, wasted space in these units. For example, a huge amount of space in the access underneath the oven.. I removed the screws and installed magnetic cabinet latches in all 4 corners.. Then I repurposed and installed the handle from the door of the little master switch panel, after removing that useless door. a great place to stash a few plastic bins for storage.

Additionally there's the access panel to the space behind the Murphy bed. Trust me, you WILL drop something back there, and NO, you will not be able to retrieve it from above. The only way is through that access panel (located on driver side behind the pass-through compartment door. I installed velcro strips on that door for easier access next time Murphy swallws an item.

RocknRoll · 02-16-2021, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pauldridge

I too hate the cheesy access panels held with a couple of screws. There is a lot of useful, wasted space in these units. For example, a huge amount of space in the access underneath the oven.. I removed the screws and installed magnetic cabinet latches in all 4 corners.. Then I repurposed and installed the handle from the door of the little master switch panel, after removing that useless door. a great place to stash a few plastic bins for storage.

I also repurposed this area and installed a 600W inverter with a 120V outlet on the panel itself. Excuse the screws, I still need to clean it up and do what Paul did!

backtrack15 · 02-16-2021, 09:50 AM

I love the idea of the magnetic latches. I shall be doing this as well, but for the water heater access panel.

tinglett · 02-19-2021, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backtrack15

I love the idea of the magnetic latches. I shall be doing this as well, but for the water heater access panel.

Please post some pics when you guys do this. I've been thinking about improving these panels for a while, but haven't gotten to it yet. Would be great to see how you approached it. I like the idea of pre-made cabinet magnets, but maybe cheap rare earth magnets would do was well. But then how do you "pry" off the panel? A little handle? Or maybe you can still get a good enough grip on the edge?

backtrack15 · 02-19-2021, 09:10 AM

I was thinking of maybe stealing an idea from Porsche’s GT cars, and using a very small pull-strap for a handle. I can take pictures when I get to this project.

Pauldridge · 02-19-2021, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinglett

Please post some pics when you guys do this. I've been thinking about improving these panels for a while, but haven't gotten to it yet. Would be great to see how you approached it. I like the idea of pre-made cabinet magnets, but maybe cheap rare earth magnets would do was well. But then how do you "pry" off the panel? A little handle? Or maybe you can still get a good enough grip on the edge?

In my case I "borrowed" the matching handle from the door that covers the switch/indicator panel just inside the doorway. This door was removed, as it serves no purpose, and in fact, I now see that the "revised" models don't even have that door.

Also, it is possible you could get a supply of matching handles from Winnebago via your dealership (good luck)

backtrack15 · 02-19-2021, 10:12 AM

I think that little door over the switch panel was meant to cover the lighted switches. If you've got a few of them on it can be pretty bright at night. Some people are sensitive to that (luckily we are not).

Sun_Seeker · 02-20-2021, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goodspike

I had the same thoughts about the outside shower, but it is somewhat useful during winterization and dewinterization as well as when connecting to city water to bleed the air out of the system without air-hammer. I've removed the showerhead on the exterior faucet.

I agree the manual situation is pretty pathetic.

I think it's more up to the dealer to provide the accessories you mentioned, but your list of four things is actually short. There are a ton of accessories that could be provided and so that's probably why none are provided.

I notice you didn't mention the interior shower. That is usually a disappointing item, both for size and water changing temperature when pausing water flow. I've been very happy with my 2106DS shower, which is probably similar.

Lots of posts just keep showing me how different and diversified we campers truly are. Where both you and the O.P. (I assume I'm reading this right) is that you both don't see the outside shower as a good alternative form of personal hygiene , vs. the inside shower, or camp facility showers. In our case, my wife, myself and our occasional 1 or 2 guests love the fact that we can come back from a day at the beach (with sand galore!), or a sweaty trail hike, and merely remove our clothes (with us all wearing swim suits or track shorts under our long pants) open the latch, set up the two taps to personal temperature, and OMG! OMG! feel the wonderful water washing away the sweat, the sand, the what-ever...and not have to walk into the trailer in a less-than-'wonderful' bodily condition. We love that feature...as well, as using it for a hand-held 'pool dip' during the day while out and about the campsite, if that humid Summer day has you feeling like a dripping sponge!!!

Post Edit: BTW, sand doesn't flush or flow out of your shower traps and grey water pipes. It merely keeps collecting until there are issues. If you camp in sandy campsites, or go to the beach, you (I advise) might want to avoid using your inside shower stall to remove that debris. After all, sand is particles of rock! It sits in your pipes, until that sand will impede and choke off the water evacuation to your Grey Tank, or start (over time) filling on the bottom of the tank. Just something to consider, if you have that outside shower to keep the 'outside' from getting 'inside', LOL!

So, of course, each to their own, on what they find 'can not be without', or 'meh'...in the feature set of their R.V. or T.T. Like I type...having that outside shower...access to warm (adjustable) water/shower stream, is a must have for the both of us...for cooling down, for washing up, for a quick sand off the naked feet, before stepping into the T.T. Especially when we camp by the sea-side!
Cheers.

RocknRoll · 02-20-2021, 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sun_Seeker

Post Edit: BTW, sand doesn't flush or flow out of your shower traps and grey water pipes. It merely keeps collecting until there are issues. If you camp in sandy campsites, or go to the beach, you (I advise) might want to avoid using your inside shower stall to remove that debris. After all, sand is particles of rock! It sits in your pipes, until that sand will impede and choke off the water evacuation to your Grey Tank, or start (over time) filling on the bottom of the tank. Just something to consider, if you have that outside shower to keep the 'outside' from getting 'inside', LOL!

Excellent advice Sun_Seeker! Thanks for the post.

Sun_Seeker · 02-20-2021, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocknRoll

Excellent advice Sun_Seeker! Thanks for the post.

Most welcome...and seeing that you are from the Carolina's...we love Pirate Land in South Myrtle Beach, (was thinking of our sites there, while posting!) and always try to get a site right off Myrtle Beach, directly behind the Dunes. Sand...sand...sand...and more sand...comes back with each foot step, LOL!

As stated, wouldn't leave home without an Outside Shower equipped T.T. or R.V.

Nope...lol!

Happy trails!

S.S.