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Old 12-08-2024, 08:26 PM   #1
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Dec 2023
Posts: 72
2024 Micro Minnie 2108DS leaks & sliding bathroom door problem

As the title says, I've had some rain water leaks into the trailer, and I had the ceiling support for the bathroom door fall loose. I also found virtually no caulk was under the metal shower threshold, which left a nice path for shower water to go under and leave a small puddle on the bathroom floor. I isolated the three water leaks from outside. The passenger side fender allowed water to leak in under the kitchen cabinets, and both of the basement pass through doors leaked. All were found while I was in the mountains in Sept (just what I wanted to do while archery hunting elk!). I stopped the leaking fender with gorilla tape run over top of where the fender meets the side of the camper, and the dealer fixed that problem properly during the next visit for repairs.

Unfortunately, they were also supposed to fix both leaks on the pass through doors, but they didn't! I found this quite luckily before heading back up into the mountains in Nov. I found the leaks days before I was to leave. So, I isolated and fixed them. On the driver's side I was able to make a long term fix because the problem was a lazy application of caulk over the screw heads that are on the inside of the frame. The culprit was the rear bottom screw head. The mgr's caulk applier just squeezed some caulk on the head and swiped it in one direction, which didn't seal the head on the trailing edge of his swipe. I removed all caulk from all screw heads on both basement doors and properly applied some good quality caulk that has wide operating temps. The passenger side door had a leak at the front and rear of it. The front was also a leak past a screw head that I fixed. But, the rear leak ended up being some kind of failure during installation whereas not enough caulk was put between the top edge of the door frame and the side of the trailer. Water got past that junction, came to rest on the top of the door's frame, and then ran down the metal frame until it go to the floor.....where it leaked out into the basement.

I shared this with the dealer before I left on my trip, and now I am waiting for him to call me back after emailing him pictures of how their tech only did half the repair on the sliding bathroom door that fell down loose on my elk trip. He made it more solid, but the ceiling slide structure is still installed crooked.

Here's some pics that I'm sharing for anyone else who has one of these problems pop up. So far, I'm fixing as much as the dealer is fixing. I give them a chance, and then I work on it myself. I don't know if they will fix the passenger side basement door leak under warranty or not since Winnebago only warranty's caulk for 3 months (a joke), but this seems to be a clear failure during installation and not a simple caulk failure. It appears to me that they didn't put a continuous seal of caulk between the door frame and side of the trailer before sliding the door & frame into place.

Two pics of how the water leaked past the outside fender molding and onto the top of the metal fender under the sink & stove. You won't see this unless you are looking for it. I stumbled onto it when I removed the drawer under the stove for another reason. You can see the white residue on the metal in the pic, which proves this leak has been happening probably since I bought it.
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Pics of a properly sealed screw head followed by a pic of the mgr's lazy squirt and swipe caulking. Then the 3rd pic is one example of how the water leaked into the basement and ran across the floor.

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A pic of the Gorilla tape fix over the passenger side door, and then if you zoom in on the pic of my brother under the moon, you can make out the same Gorilla tape fix over the fender's molding. I keep a roll of the Gorilla tape in my truck, and recommend it (not duct tape) for just these kind of emergencies.

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The terrible repair on the bathroom sliding door rails. Sorry the 2nd pic is sideways.

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Mike, retired Coast Guard
2024 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108DS
2014 F350 Lariat CCLB 6.7L & 2010 Shelby GT500
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Old 12-09-2024, 08:13 AM   #2
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Assembly Quality

Mike,
I bought a new 2022 2108TB and have had so many similar problems to yours. I had the dealer fix a few plumbing leaks but I have fixed all of the others. My dealer is 90 miles away and leaving the trailer for days or weeks there just isn't acceptable.
Many of us have had and continue to have similar issues. It sounds like you are handy and will be able to address them. Perhaps it is just part of owning a trailer like ours.
One thing that I do recommend is going around the entire interior and exterior and tightening all of the fasteners. 20% of mine were loose after a year or so. Don't overtighten. Tighten the fasteners under the sink that hold the sink support brackets. Tighten all of the cabinet mounting fasteners. Check the torque/tighten every fastener in the trailer that you can reach. Torque your wheel lug nuts.
Regularly check for leaks under your kitchen sink. Pull the lower panel off and check all of the fittings near the pump. Do this with pump pressure and with city water pressure.
Over time the number of issues should continue to reduce and you will be able to enjoy your trailer for many years.
Hope this helps. This forum has so many great contributors and I am sure others will probably chime in.
Good luck.
Scott
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Old 12-09-2024, 08:25 AM   #3
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Leaks

I too have had leaks that I fix. The fittings for shower drain! Had water running out from under the shower into the living room. Had to get under and tighten.
I think the shower pan flexes and loosens the fittings, rector seal seems to work but will need to put something under it this spring to support the floor.
My basement doors do leak somewhere when it rains, I open the doors and a bunch of water runs out the top of the opening… not sure how to fix that, maybe seal around the door opening…?
Thx! Bill
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Old 12-10-2024, 07:07 AM   #4
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Shower Pan Support

Under the shower pan I installed several short (approx. 5" long) sections of 2"x4" board and spread them around the plumbing. Cutting them to the correct length so that they fit snug is a little challenging but once in they work well and reduce the flexibility in the shower floor. They are not bonded and are easily removed if needed.
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Old 12-16-2024, 10:06 AM   #5
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Location: Gichi-Gami, WI
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We've experienced the under sink leak as well. Drove me nuts as it would not leak after wiping up the water. I changed the "garden hose" faucet set rubber washers with cone-style washers as a precaution without success. While washing and rinsing dishes, water would start leaking out from under the cabinet. Turned out to be a loose input connection to the water pump and it only leaked when running the faucet while connected to city water. 1/4 turn on the connection remedied the leak.

Also consider condensation as a contributer to water accumulation. Our prior TT, Winnie Drop would buildup condensation on the back wall of the overhead cabinets (cool surface), occasionally to the point of water leaking down from behind the cabinets. This occurred when camping during cold conditions much like your hunting trips. Those tin inner wheel well liners would be a perfect surface to condense high humidity. We take the time to wipe down the walls and windows in the AM as two grown adults sleeping in such a small space can put a lot of moisture in the air. The LP furnace however does not as it has a sealed combustion chamber. Cooking on the stove and running hot water does contribute.

Insulating the interior surfaces of those wheel wells maybe a good thing. Can't hurt, even for reducing heat loss.
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Old 12-16-2024, 02:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DEWEY View Post
Also consider condensation as a contributer to water accumulation. Our prior TT, Winnie Drop would buildup condensation on the back wall of the overhead cabinets (cool surface), occasionally to the point of water leaking down from behind the cabinets. This occurred when camping during cold conditions much like your hunting trips. Those tin inner wheel well liners would be a perfect surface to condense high humidity. We take the time to wipe down the walls and windows in the AM as two grown adults sleeping in such a small space can put a lot of moisture in the air. The LP furnace however does not as it has a sealed combustion chamber. Cooking on the stove and running hot water does contribute.

Insulating the interior surfaces of those wheel wells maybe a good thing. Can't hurt, even for reducing heat loss.
That's certainly a possibility, but in my case it was definitely a leak for rainwater to intrude. Gorilla tape the junction outside, and the leak stopped. Then the dealer addressed it, and I haven't seen a leak yet.

I'll typically crack one of the roof vents (provided they aren't covered with snow) when I use the stove to give the moisture an escape route. Otherwise, with only me in the trailer, I don't generate enough moisture to fog the windows at all. And as far as condensation, I don't run the heater unless I'm inside the trailer, and then I typically only set the thermostat for ~55.
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Old 12-22-2024, 08:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thindirtline View Post
Under the shower pan I installed several short (approx. 5" long) sections of 2"x4" board and spread them around the plumbing. Cutting them to the correct length so that they fit snug is a little challenging but once in they work well and reduce the flexibility in the shower floor. They are not bonded and are easily removed if needed.
HelloThindirtline,
Any pics of these 2x4’s in place? My TT is stored at a remote location, and will start with (2?) 5” long pieces and try to fit them in under the shower pan.
One on either side of the drain piping, parallel, alongside, the pipe?
Thx! Bill
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Old 12-22-2024, 09:22 AM   #8
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Shower Pan Support

I store my trailer about 15 miles away and can't get any pics of the 2x4s under the shower right now.
If you pull the cover off at the front of the shower you can measure then cut some cardboard to get a correct length, then cut the wood. Be prepared to do a little sanding. Round all of the edges. The pan lifts up slightly as you rotate them into place. Once in they should have just a light contact with the shower floor to hold them in place. I placed them mostly near the middle and front of the shower.
The shower floor is still firm and the boards have not shifted after perhaps 100 nights in the trailer. No leaks under there either.
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Old 12-22-2024, 06:46 PM   #9
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Thindirtline, Thanks for the info!
My floor seems to flex in the middle of the pan, behind the drain, and plumbing I guess. Mine seems more rigid from drain to the front of the shower pan.
Where exactly did you place the wood?
Front to back, from the front of the pan to the drain piping?
Or did you slide wood in behind the drain piping to run from the rear of the pan up to the drain piping?
My TT is also a ways away, in heated storage for the winter.
I was going to try to support around the pvc drain piping, snug put not pushing up so it will not affect the pitch. I am not sure of the final position of your 2x4’s, can you explain a bit more?
Thx! Bill
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Old 01-07-2025, 08:52 AM   #10
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Shower floor support

Here is pic taken of the area under my shower floor with the cover removed. You can only see one short section of 2x4 here but I believe there are two more behind it. This was the most flexible area in my floor and the supports help significantly.
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Old 01-13-2025, 09:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wmlunt View Post
I too have had leaks that I fix. The fittings for shower drain! Had water running out from under the shower into the living room. Had to get under and tighten.
I think the shower pan flexes and loosens the fittings, rector seal seems to work but will need to put something under it this spring to support the floor.
My basement doors do leak somewhere when it rains, I open the doors and a bunch of water runs out the top of the opening… not sure how to fix that, maybe seal around the door opening…?
Thx! Bill
I have a 2022 Micro Minnie FLX 2306 BHS and its only been used twice and was first sold retail in March of 2024, but had the same issue with the shower drain and I put Teflon tape on the fittings and fixed that. The shower at the top disconnected from the wall and I had a heck of a time getting molly fastened into the wall with JB weld to get in anchored again. Even though it was manufactured just 3 years ago the clear coat is falling off the front nose. The dealer quoted $ 7,200 to take the decals off re-clear coat it and put the decals back on. The clear coat should not be falling off ??. I replaced all of the screws in the drawer glides and the screws were undersized and half were striped. My brother sells these things and says if you are not handy you should not own one ��
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