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08-30-2021, 09:24 AM
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#1
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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2017 1706FB Micro Minnie RED
Good day all, new to this forum as I’m not a Winnebago owners YET, but I have my heart set on a 2017 Micro Minnie 1706FB in flamboyant RED!
Any comment on like/don’t like and what should I watch for before I pull the trigger on it?
Thanks and looking forward to share my experience with you all!
Cheers from Quebec!Canada!
Carl
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09-01-2021, 06:51 AM
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#2
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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Size of sleeping are when table is down
Good day, I didn't get any answer on my previous post, but, I understand why. I have been reading this TT thread and a lots of my question were answered.
One thing I have not seen is the size of the sleeping area when the table is down.
I would like to know if this is a usable bed or it is just a marketing feature that says someone can sleep there.
The layout picture on says it's 32"x74", but is it really 74" usable or the thickness of the back of the seats reduce that space?
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09-01-2021, 03:47 PM
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#3
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlBeauce
Good day, I didn't get any answer on my previous post, but, I understand why. I have been reading this TT thread and a lots of my question were answered.
One thing I have not seen is the size of the sleeping area when the table is down.
I would like to know if this is a usable bed or it is just a marketing feature that says someone can sleep there.
The layout picture on says it's 32"x74", but is it really 74" usable or the thickness of the back of the seats reduce that space?
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I own a 2018, and the table can convert, but it is only for one adult, or two children 12 or under. Even so, you need to create a 2x4 frame that will site below the table, and support it when there are bodies on it. If not, it will only rest on a 1/2x1/2 strip of soft wood, and that will fail...with one or both of them allowing the table to strike the floor with possible resultant injury to the sleep(er)s. Another thing you very much should do...is take a look inside your front Storage Locker compartment, and you will be aghast at the minimal front bulkhead that holds, (well is suppose to hold...) the front side of the queen bed and one or two 'passengers.' Ours failed one month after purchase, and our bed sagged almost on a 45 degree angle, at the front wall. I then completely (with 2x4's) created a front floor-to-underside of bed frame (the flat bottom wood panel), as well as did the same around where the two dresser drawers frame . If you don't spend the time to reinforce with either 2/4's or at least 2x2's...the bed frame supports as provided by Winnebago, WILL FAIL...and your bed will be of no use until you get home, or while camping, go to a store for the wood, the tools, the saws...the nails or screws. Best to do this at home, or get your selling dealer to do it for you, BEFORE you take it camping, or if you are buying privately, when you get it home to your driveway. There is a good thread already on this (my thread)...with pictures of what many other's that have this model, did to create a better support for the bed frame and mattress.
Trout One's job looks just like what I had my dealer do...2x4's from the ground to the top, where the bed frame rests on, not some flimsy 1/2x1.2 screwed byk 6 screws into the front wall of the trailer! They will RIP OUT, and down you will go...
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...fb-355756.html
Once you do that...you will never have even the chance that your front bed mount will come off the front wall, and down you go, into all your stored stuff...and hopefully not damaging anything,, or yourselves in the process. Don't think you can 'take your chances...' for the ridiculous , and under supported O.E.M. support that Winnebago put under the bed frame...WILL FAIL!.
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09-01-2021, 04:00 PM
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#4
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Duplicate
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09-01-2021, 04:37 PM
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#5
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Also...
Also, I suggest that you get an A/C white cover to put over and protect your Dome of your rooftop A/C, to keep bugs and leaf litter out of and away from the heat exchanger core. Remember to always REMOVE it, (the cover) before you tow, and put it back on, once you get back to your home, or storage area. I also suggest you get two covers for your roof vents/screen, so you can keep them open in the rain, and when storing, if you keep the bathroom door open fully, you will get a good flow of fresh air entering or leaving one or the other, depending on air flow and wind direction. This will go very much to prevent black mold, and a concentration of stagnant air and humidity. Also, if raining...even pouring, you can have while camping and not needing the A/C. or don't have the shore power for it...to have fresh air come in, and the heated air that rises and collects at the interior ceiling of your T.T. Just some suggestions....
Final thoughts, Carl...this trailer....its feature list for the size and towing weight, is one FABULOUS T.T.! We tow our 2018 with a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan with a good equalizer hitch, and at 60 mph on flat highway, if not a moderate to bad head wind, we can get 13-15 mpg, with 12/13 as the mean average to take in headwind, 5 degree hills and dales. The 20 feet of it, can go into ANY campsite, even ones only designed for a tent. There were a few times that the owners of the campground, relented about only tents on the 'tent sites', and allowed us to a few times, to back into those sites.
Because I was backing in only 20 feet...I could accomplish that. That is the perk of an East/West queen bed...in that you don't need 2 more feet of walls, roof, to have an North/South bed. Of course it is easier to not have to move over someone in the night if you have to go to the bathroom with an East/West (means across the width) Queen bed, BUT...you can store/park the trailer on your own driveway, saving THOUSANDS over the life of the T.T. ownership, avoiding storage costs and possible damage from other's coming and going, theft/break in, etc....but, you will also pick up the perk of better MPG's...as there now is less dead weight to have to be towed to accommodate a walk around bed, that is front to back on the floor of the T.T.
Enjoy,...for as the price of gas is just always going up...never down....you will LOVE this 20 footer, hitch to back bumper!~
BTW, because there is only my wife and myself...we decided to glue in the bottoms of the two poles that holds up the dinette table, as well as where the top of the two pole legs enter the bottom of the table, so we can merely stop, for lunch or dinner off the highway, ...or not have to move it from its down travelling position, and is always ready as the functional dinette, for food, or a quick drink and a magazine...
Post Edit: Mind the red fiberglass walls...as they tend to oxidize, and a hard to remove film of white will come over the shiny red finish. Once a month, I would suggest that you use an anti-oxidizer cream, and go over the entire trailer that has fiberglass, front, sides and back, and then apply a good sealing Carnauba based wax. Also, twice in the season, I suggest you wash the roof material with proper cleaner and then apply an anti-UV and sealant treatment, (usually a spray bottle that you then use a very soft bristle brush to spread across the entire surface of your roof.
Also, finally, inspect twice a year...all the DICOR 'run's that waterproof anything that was inserted or cut into the roof, as well as all the caulking beads around your back wall light lenses, as well as any cornering clearance lights.
For your power awning, at least four times a season....fully extend the awning, as there will be for sure rain water that lays trapped and can mold/rot the material. You can get awning (spray bottles, usually) cleaner as well as fabric UV preservative and do that at least TWICE per season.
If you do all the above, your trailer will stay in top notch shape. The greatest threat to any R.V. or T.T. is water penetration's, by lack of due diligence at having a generous schedule to inspect your E.P.O. roof membrane for strike (trees limb) damage, or U.V. dry rot damage to your DICOR lap sealant.
Keep your roof and its equipment waterproof, and there is no reason that your trailer can not last you 40 years, or more. Most E.P.O. membrane roofs have a 'working' life expectancy (U.V. exposure on average) of about 10-12 years. If you EVER have to replace your E.P.O roof...you will SO APPRECIATE that you have only 20 feet of roof membrane to buy, and not 22,25,27, or 33 feet of it...when you check out the running foot cost to purchase, and or the labor to install. Cheers, would be fellow 1706FB owner...welcome soon to the 'club'... A great trailer that has it all...3 piece bathroom, HUGE fridge, easy to tow, easy to back up, easy to keep on your home driveway, if your H.O.A. (if you have one...) allows for it. Just the savings of having your trailer on your own home driveway, can save you almost $3,000.00 per year...and THAT can go to camp fees, and gas for towing, rather than to just sit somewhere, when you can't take it on the road!
Cheers!
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09-02-2021, 09:19 PM
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#6
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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Thanks for all the advices!
I asked the seller to send me a tons of pictures because the thing is, he is 9hrs always… but here in Canada there are very few used mini fore sale…
It’s in very good condition, but I can see on the picture from the storage area that the bed structure has cracked and it sagging a bit, so I, if I buy it I will be bringing some wood braces to do a temp fix. (Because we probably will stop for one night on the drive back)
Will definitely install the max air vent and I have a fantastic fan I was planning to install on my old trailer and never and never got around to it.
The Red is also a subject of discussion between my wife and I. I’m getting into the red but she doesn’t so she’s not sure about going that far for it. It has started to fade, but the pictures from another member that has a red that was in terrible condition and restored it’s beauty made me confident I can do the same (and the one I’m looking at is not that bad, j’use a little fade, almost hard to notice)
I think it would be a different story if it was white.
In the meantime I keep looking. We also like the R-Pods, but they are also hard to find… and don’t have double axles, which I’m not sure I’m willing to go one axle.
Will be towing with a Jeep Cherokee which has 4500lbs towing / 450lbs max tongue weight capacity so I think we are good. We just sold our old 2007 hybrid that was about the same weight but had a larger front surface than the Minnie so this would also be a plus…
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09-03-2021, 03:19 PM
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#7
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlBeauce
Thanks for all the advices!
I asked the seller to send me a tons of pictures because the thing is, he is 9hrs always… but here in Canada there are very few used mini fore sale…
It’s in very good condition, but I can see on the picture from the storage area that the bed structure has cracked and it sagging a bit, so I, if I buy it I will be bringing some wood braces to do a temp fix. (Because we probably will stop for one night on the drive back)
Will definitely install the max air vent and I have a fantastic fan I was planning to install on my old trailer and never and never got around to it.
The Red is also a subject of discussion between my wife and I. I’m getting into the red but she doesn’t so she’s not sure about going that far for it. It has started to fade, but the pictures from another member that has a red that was in terrible condition and restored it’s beauty made me confident I can do the same (and the one I’m looking at is not that bad, j’use a little fade, almost hard to notice)
I think it would be a different story if it was white.
In the meantime I keep looking. We also like the R-Pods, but they are also hard to find… and don’t have double axles, which I’m not sure I’m willing to go one axle.
Will be towing with a Jeep Cherokee which has 4500lbs towing / 450lbs max tongue weight capacity so I think we are good. We just sold our old 2007 hybrid that was about the same weight but had a larger front surface than the Minnie so this would also be a plus…
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Hello, again. My 2018 is also the red...and actually, the wonderful shine is always there...but just under a layer of white film oxidation. Rub that out and off...and wam-oh...right back to that lively lustre of red. Also, the color red is the official STOP/Warning...and when people see your red trailer up head of them...it does draw wanted attention to it. We have been told that, by others. I can't shout from the mountain top, enough, the praises of the 1706FB...and I want to clear a mistake in my post above. If you ever have to replace the E.D.O. membrane, it is only a linear 17 feet, not the 20 that I wrote. The roof and cabin under it is 17 feet long, with the total trailer from hitch ball to back bumper, the 20 feet I mentioned. Only having to purchase 17 running feet of roof membrane is very financially do-able, if there is no serious wood 'rot' below the roof, down to the frame.
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09-04-2021, 05:14 AM
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#8
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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It’s official!
So, I’m officially proud owner of a Micro Minnie, but not the one above mentioned.
Yesterday morning I got an email from a Kijiji alert and there was a 2020 1706FB for sale at a 4hr drive from me. Original owners had purchased extended warranty until 2026. Price was right so a drove down to look at it.
It’s in pristine mint condition, as new. Retired outlet bought it pre-pandemic to travel the USA in the winter but their project stopped 3weeks in. They took it out only a few time since then. Still smell new.
Then had frame rus proofing done, paint protective coating, and fabric protection.
They replace dinette cushions for memory foam and, of course the bed mattress.
Drove back last night so, pictures to follow!
I’m happy camper!
Ho, and it’s light gray.
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09-04-2021, 06:43 AM
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#9
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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Voila!
Here it is!
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09-04-2021, 07:26 AM
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#10
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlBeauce
Here it is!
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Congrat's Carl...looks RIPPER! You will so totally enjoy this model, as well as all the benefits of the size and form factor. This T.T can go anywhere, and for the most frugal cost to get you to the campsite!
With the continuing and rising cost(s) of ownership, and required maintenance, truly less, is more...and for us, the true 'cherry' is that you really do have it all with this model (1706FB) you have a killer galley, a huge fridge and freezer, a queen bed, AND (drum roll, please...) a full three piece bathroom, WITH so much ample storage, throughout the entire coach, and no slide out's...solid walls, much less to go wrong, much less to maintain. Another not so thought of 'perk' is that this trailer has two 3,700 lb axles...with four tires, and FOUR sets of bearings. So what? Well...your total net weight is only 2,800 pounds, and each bearing set running in their races and cups, only have to support 700 pounds, which is so light, that the chance of a bearing failure (with proper greasing) is next to not happening, AS WELL, as your savings in gas mileage because much less heated friction on those bearing and their cups/races. The 1706FB ROCKS! I can't tell you how many times, I have had couples cold contact us about 'your trailer sitting on your driveway...and is that for sale?!?!?'
"Nope...sorry, it isn't!" LOL. Nope....
Post Edit: The VERY first thing I would do with your new trailer...even before (lol) washing it...is to make custom 2x4 frame braces for the front bed frame, and install them, at the front and under the frame where you see it is only attached to the front of the T.T. by a ridiculous strip of wood, and screws. It's not if this will fail, and split or rip away from the wall at the point of screw insertions, no...but WHEN it will do it to the both of you, while sleeping. If you take that thread I started to heart, and do as suggested, for as well as the great posts of the thread contributors, that also were motivated to bolster the bed from from within the storage bay, you will head this 'going to happen for sure' off at the pass, as they say. Other than that...and normal maintenance ,you should have many years owning that Winnie! Oh...TIRE COVERS, as well as for the A/C. dome ....if the trailer is not moving for 14 days or more, ...COVER THOSE TIRES, from UV SUN ROT! The sun can kill off the side walls of good tires, (while sitting and not flex/rotating) in as little as even one summer of direct sunlight. That is one of the major causes of tire blow outs...the sidewalls, had weakened from UV rubber/compound rot.
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09-04-2021, 11:24 AM
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#11
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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Plumbing
Got it for the bed will definitely work something out.
In the meantime, already got my first mishap. Got a bit of a water in front storage. Looks like it s coming from the black tube attached to the pump and open at the other end. There is a valve there and it was open. Not a lot of water but annoyingly difficult area to clean. And what is that tube for? Didn’t have that on my previous old trailer.
And where are the low point drains? Manual says «*drains are located in various locations depending on the model*».. yeah. Very helpful. I think I found where the come out on the outside but can’t find the valves…
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09-04-2021, 12:56 PM
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#12
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlBeauce
Got it for the bed will definitely work something out.
In the meantime, already got my first mishap. Got a bit of a water in front storage. Looks like it s coming from the black tube attached to the pump and open at the other end. There is a valve there and it was open. Not a lot of water but annoyingly difficult area to clean. And what is that tube for? Didn’t have that on my previous old trailer.
And where are the low point drains? Manual says «*drains are located in various locations depending on the model*».. yeah. Very helpful. I think I found where the come out on the outside but can’t find the valves…
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That tube is to be used for when you Winterize your trailer...you would place that tube into the antifreeze jug, and it seems that that valve was not turned off, after they winterized. Also make sure that the valve from your Potable Fresh Water tank is turned on (in line with the tube), so your pump can draw fresh water out from the tank, if you should be using it, off of city water. That tube is called the water pump BY PASS, and to use it, you would turn the valve coming from your water tank to OFF, or not in-line with the piping. Then you would place that tube into an open jug of antifreeze, and then turn THAT valve in line with the tube. Now, when you run your water pump...(you open an interior kitchen , bathroom faucet, or press down on the toilet foot flush lever, and run water through your shower wand until you see PINK antifreeze flow from all faucets, the shower wand, and see the toilet spiraling PINK antifreeze in the bowl....the pump will draw from that jug. Make SURE you also open the door to your OUTSIDE SHOWER, and make sure both the hot and cold flow PINK from the hand wand. When you are done...turn that valve so it is not in line with the hose, and then remember to turn your Fresh Water Tank valve, IN LINE with the piping. Now, you are out of Winterize mode, ready to De Winterize in the Spring.
Your TWO low point valve bodies are inside your bathroom sink cabinet, located on the floor space that the cabinet sits upon. Open the door, and you will see the shelf, There are two screws (tiny...don't lose them!) holding the half front in place. Remove those two screws, lift up the half shelf, and then using a flash light, you will see, or feel with your hand the two flip up (one blue, the other red) valves to drain your low point. They are more to the front of the cabinet than the mid point or towards the back. Be gentle with those valve heads as I feel they are fragile. When you have drained them...and no more water is dripping below the bottom where the bathroom lies and the two tubes (side by side) stick out from the bottom of your trailer,...close them, and then replace the half shelf...and you are good to go. Make sure that you have all your taps...the kitchen hot and cold, and the bathroom sink, hot and cold, fully opened up, so no back suction will stop all the water from flowing out of those two low points in your plumbing.
In the Spring, to de-Winterize;
Be SURE to use two cups of Bleach poured into your Fresh Water Tank, (fill it to the brim) and run your kitchen and bathroom taps until water from the pump has water flowing from them for only about 10 seconds. Top up your Fresh water tank to the brim once more, and ---> then...let the bleach water sit in your plumbing lines and Fresh Water Tank for 24 hours. After that...drain your bleach infused water from your Fresh Water Holding Tank ,and then, fill with ONLY fresh water..and then let all your taps run for about five minutes, to expunge the bleach water mix. Fill and run through your faucets, as well as drain your Fresh Water Tank, at least twice before you'd drink from your plumbing with water from the Fresh Water (Potable) Tank. You can have your GREY Water valve open for this operation upon your driveway, but NOT ever...of course, your BLACK WATER (sewage), ever. I Winterize, and De-Winterize always with my Grey Water valve open, and the water flowing down my concrete driveway. Nothing in that will hurt or damage.
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09-04-2021, 01:03 PM
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#13
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MM 1706FB 2020
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sun_Seeker
That tube is to be used for when you Winterize your trailer...you would place that tube into the antifreeze jug, and it seems that that valve was not turned off, after they winterized. Also make sure that the valve from your Potable Fresh Water tank is turned on (in line with the tube), so your pump can draw fresh water out from the tank, if you should be using it, off of city water.
Your TWO low point valve bodies are inside your bathroom sink cabinet, located on the floor space that the cabinet sits upon. Open the door, and you will see the shelf, There are two screws (tiny...don't lose them!) holding the half front in place. Remove those two screws, lift up the half shelf, and then using a flash light, you will see, or feel with your hand the two flip up (one blue, the other red) valves to drain your low point. They are more to the front of the cabinet than the mid point or towards the back. Be gentle with those valve heads as I feel they are fragile. When you have drained them...and no more water is dripping below the bottom where the bathroom lies...shut them, and then replace the half ledge...and you are good to go.
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Haaaa… this is a inconvenient Spot to put these drains. I used to open an drain every time I leave the campground … don’t want to unscrew a shelf each time.
Make sense for the tube.
Thanks!
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09-04-2021, 01:25 PM
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#14
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlBeauce
Haaaa… this is a inconvenient Spot to put these drains. I used to open an drain every time I leave the campground … don’t want to unscrew a shelf each time.
Make sense for the tube.
Thanks!
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Carl, you don't ever need to open your Low Point Drains, unless Winterizing your trailer. Water (negligible) in the plumbing between summer weekends, or vacations will not go foul, if you had bleached at the start of the season, to de-Winterize. I only use them in the first two weeks of November, when I Winterize. So, for where they are...not too much of a hassle. I open them, go have breakfast...come back...flip them closed...put the half shelf back in place, and then put the tube in a jug of antifreeze, close my Fresh Water Tank Valve to the pump, open the antifreeze tube valve...and then starting with my toilet, I wait for pink, then the Hand Held Shower Wand, then both bathroom taps, and finally the two kitchen taps. Then...I go to the outside and open up BOTH the Hand Shower Taps, until pink flows. NOW...you are fully winterized. You won't believe how many people completely forget about the Outside Hand Wand Shower ...and oh yeah...next Spring, they are replacing it, and whatever else froze in the plumbing leading to it. Don't forget that!
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09-04-2021, 01:53 PM
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#15
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 302
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Carl, one final thought...and this will CERTAINLY be worth every penny you pay. I would (if you don't already own one...) buy a Canadian Tire Portable Compressor, I own the second from the bottom of the tank size, and getting the City Water adapter, set your tank pressure to the same P.S.I. as what your city water hose pressure regulator is set to...and then allow the pressure from your compressor, to PRESSURIZE, your plumbing...then open your low point valves only. That is if you use air pressure to force the water out from those valves. That's what I do. I then, remove the air hose when I see no more water draining out. I then open up all my faucets for about five minutes. Then...close them..., close the two Lower Drain Valves, and do the Jug Nasty. If you do it that way, Carl...with pressurized air, you will NEVER have a next season plumbing leak, due to any water left in the system, over Winter. By doing that, as well as a follow up jug of antifreeze as mentioned above...you will stay clear off the TOTAL HASSLE of trying to find out where all THAT WATER is flowing over your floor from...!!!! You won't be the guy, littering the air with colorful phrases....next Spring!
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09-19-2021, 08:48 PM
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#16
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 77
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Man, Sun_Seeker beat me to everything! So, welcome to the 1706 gang, Carl!
We have a blue 2020 1706FB, built in 2019 and love it. We've had it out for a lot of long-weekend regional trips and up to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan for several weeks this summer (even found a couple of washboard roads that slowed me down to below 10 mph for over 16 miles) and through it all, the trailer has been a champ. I'm staying on top of maintenance and - as SS says, followed his advice to shore up the bed frame and so far, all is well. We've added 30 lb LP tanks, a shelf on top of them to hold a pair of 5 gallon Jerry cans for extra gas and done a bunch of stuff to the TV (a 2011 4WD Suburban) to toughen it up for long trips. The trailer will be next if we keep it long-term.
We're headed out for a big loop through Big Bend NP, Ft. Davis/Marfa/Alpine/Marathon, and Palo Duro Canyon in Texas while also passing through New Mexico to Carlsbad Caverns NP and Roswell over Christmas and January so getting some winterizing accessories at the moment in case the temps go south while we're down there.
We've got more several-month long trips planned for the future and I'm getting close to retirement so we're about to begin a discussion about keeping it long term or getting something slightly larger, though no more than 23 - 25'. The small size really works to our advantage getting in and out of tight spots and I don't want to give up too much of that. If we keep it, I'm going to look into boxing the frame across the back and in a couple more spots between the hitch frame and the back so things don't flex so much on dirt/gravel trails. I'd hope that would help with keeping interior fixtures in place long term, especially as our travels take us to more remote spots. I hold no illusions I could use it like a Black Series trailer with those modifications but I'm not inclined to want to take a 1/2 ton Suburban that far off road, either. Still, I'd like to do more long-term dispersed camping; boxing the frame and ensuring the water tanks are substantially supported so they can carry full loads of fresh water and/or waste without stressing their brackets or the frame will help tremendously while traveling on BLM or NFS roads.
What I'm trying to say by example is that as long as you understand and appreciate that light weight trailers sacrifice some torsional strength in the name of weight savings and act accordingly, you'll be fine. That means you need to keep an eye on plumbing, cabinet mounts, appliance mounting, etc. - all of the things that will eventually vibrate loose from rolling down the road behind a truck. Most of it is very easy to fix once you get access to it, you just have to stay on top of things. That's half the fun for me, as long as I'm not having to do anything in the middle of August.
__________________
2019 1706FB Micro Minnie/2011 Z71 Chevy Suburban
"What the long road steals in minutes, it returns in serenity."
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