Winterization Techniques

[JDHarrin]

It's our first winter with an RV. We typically get down to 20-40 degrees throughout the season. I just ordered an RV cover so it'll be buttoned up. I plan to winterize the RV this weekend, draining, air blowing and adding antifreeze to the plumbing system (minus the water heater). My questions are, do I need to remove the house batteries to place them in a warmer location (garage) on a trickle charger as I've read? I just bought these AGM batteries and replaced the converter with a multi-stage system. With the RV connected to shore power all winter, wouldn't the batteries stay trickle charged? I also planned to keep electricity going to the refrigerator. Any reason I shouldn't. Finally, I assume I still need to do the monthly checks all winter long (start the generator and air conditioner, check tire pressure and the chassis battery, empty the mouse traps, etc.). Anything I'm forgetting? Appreciate the advice... :--)

[AZAspect]

I don't disconnect my batteries on our Aspect 30J. We keep her garaged (unheated) and plugged into a 30 amp outlet. I too have used compressed air to clear all of my lines. I keep the drains open and all faucets open during the winter. I only place the antifreeze in the drain traps and above the toilet seal (along with toilet seal lubricant). I do place about a quart of antifreeze in the gray water tank and another quart in the black water tank just in case. I no longer fill the lines with antifreeze and we get down to 0 degrees here in northern AZ...I have had no problems. The key is to get the lines blown out well.

Yes, the monthly checks continue as described. Good luck!

Al

[be happy]

As you stated you will be plugged in all winter, so no need to remove the batteries. There is no need to keep frig running, unless you have items stored in there. It may need some off time also. I do have one thing to bring up about running the frig. You said you will be covering your rig. If you are planning to run the frig. I would never cover my unit. The frig has to have a good amount of air to cool the back down. With a cover you are stopping that flow, by covering the roof vent. Now with that said if you have a residential frig. forget the above. Yes to starting everything, again it may be hard on the AC if you have your rig covered. Not sure but even the engine may not get enough fresh air when covered. You need to let the gen run for a good hour under load i.e. ac even a toaster. As for the mice you will get alot of different thing to do. I do over kill I know. I use the electronic devises you plug in that puts out a high frequency. I also use alot of Moth Balls, I put some in small cups and put the cups pretty much everywhere. Between the two I have never had mouse problem for many many years. I have never covered so can not give any advise in that area.
Remember if you have water filters they should be removed before you use antifreeze.

[Morich]

Check the filter on the side of the water pump to see how it is turned as some get turned so the filter hangs down and that leaves a low spot for water to collect and freeze. Simple to turn the fitting so that the filter is bottom up which lets it drain with the rest.

[AZAspect]

Originally Posted by Morich

Check the filter on the side of the water pump to see how it is turned as some get turned so the filter hangs down and that leaves a low spot for water to collect and freeze. Simple to turn the fitting so that the filter is bottom up which lets it drain with the rest.

WOW! I thought they all came with the filter turned down! I'm heading out to turn the fitting...no more having to empty that too! thanks!!!!

Al

[JDHarrin]

Wow! Great input. I really appreciate all the advice. I’d partially remove the cover to start the generator and run the air conditioner. Never thought about the electronic devices and moth balls. Good stuff! :-)

[DavidM]

Not sure why you would want to run the A/C in the winter. Every home purchase inspector I ever talked to said not to run the A/C below 60 degrees. Why? Maybe it will freeze up, maybe the oil won't circulate properly cold, don't know. But why do it?

Also not sure if there is a real benefit to running the generator. Yes everyone will say it will circulate the oil. But a very cold start to an air cooled engine probably does more harm than letting oil sit there all winter. And if you do, you have to put a load on it until it reaches operating temperature.

So I would do neither.

The chassis engine I also have mixed feelings about. If you do start it, you have to let it warm up until the temperature gauge is in the operating range. Otherwise a short run will do more harm than good.

David

[AZAspect]

Here is a good article that covers a lot of things (that ironically just came to our email).

https://blog.rvtrader.com/2020/11/fm...e-dos-and.html

The reason for starting and running gas powered engines (and the article refers to this for the generator) is to prevent/minimize gumming up of gasoline. The manufacturer of our generator recommends running at least once a month at full load (thus using the A/C unit).

We have a few classic muscle cars that we also run once a month while stored in our garage. We take them to operating temp and cycle through the gears (automatics) a few times to help lubricate the seals. I can tell you that if we DON'T do this, seals will harden and eventually leak over time. I know this from experience and thank goodness mechanic friends reinforced this with me after the first time it happened years ago. I would think a gas powered RV would fall under the same recommendations.

We also move our rigs 6 to 12" once a month to minimize flat spots on our tires. I've never had an issue with it, but maybe because we do this with all of our stored vehicles. The article also mentions this.

Bottom line is do what you are comfortable with. This topic of running the generator and the MH engine has been debated many times on these forums. There are sound points on both sides of the issue. I just know that after the expense of replacing transmission seals and rear main on a classic car, I won't take the chance of that happening again...and it hasn't after I took the mechanics' recommendation. But then again, I'm not the lucky one at the casinos...my wife is! (That's meant as a joke...)

Al

[stearn]

Originally Posted by AZAspect

WOW! I thought they all came with the filter turned down! I'm heading out to turn the fitting...no more having to empty that too! thanks!!!!

Al

Me 2

[arthur145]

Originally Posted by AZAspect

WOW! I thought they all came with the filter turned down! I'm heading out to turn the fitting...no more having to empty that too! thanks!!!!

Al

No reason to risk loosening your waterline connection to rotate the filter. You are supposed to unscrew the plastic filter housing so you can clean and/or replace the filter, so shake out any water while you do that.

[arthur145]

Originally Posted by AZAspect

WOW! I thought they all came with the filter turned down! I'm heading out to turn the fitting...no more having to empty that too! thanks!!!!

Al

No reason to risk loosening your waterline connection to rotate the filter. You are supposed to unscrew the plastic filter housing so you can clean and/or replace the filter, so shake out any water while you do that.