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Old 04-20-2019, 08:25 PM   #1
bkg
Winnebago Owner
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 97
Winnebago View overcab cap insulation

I have a 2019 View 24V and I needed a 120 volt power supply to the drive side of the overcab bed area.
My 24V has 120 volt reight near the entrance door so i figured I would drop the transition trim (where the ceiling height changes to the fiberglass cap). Easy enough to drop the trim but I was shocked to see the minimal insulation applied to the fiberglass cap area; just a 1/4" foil backed bubble wrap adhered to the underside of the cap.
This is a significant difference from the 2 inch layer of styrofoam used in the built-up ceiling/roof (first photo).

Since the cap ceiling is so very easy to access I dropped more panels to provide access for installing 3 inch fiberglass bats. There is certainly room for it just curious why more wasn't done to insulate the cap at the factory.
I've read on this forum of certain Class A units getting real hot in the front cap with enclosed entertainment units. This being a sleeping area and no ducting directly in that ceiling I would have thought it to be automatic that the area would have something better than an R-value of 1.0.

I usually try to make improvements where I can. Anyone with a View and an overcab bed find it gets hot up in the cap. Is it worth the effort of putting insulation of there or just leave it be?
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Old 04-22-2019, 10:55 PM   #2
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We have a 2018 View 24J and sleep regularly in the overhead bed. Haven’t been up there yet in extreme temperatures so really can’t say the temp is any hotter or colder up there. But if you’ve opened it up, why not add some extra insulation. As long as it fits back together—it can only help!
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:27 AM   #3
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We have a 2017 with the overcab sleeping area. We do not use it regularly except when the grandkids visit . . . but yes, it gets hot in the summer. Now that you discovered the diminished insulation up front, think I will tackle this project! Can't hurt as long as the panels still fit Might be a good chance to add a switch for the lighting so it can be switched from the bunk.
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Old 05-26-2019, 09:00 PM   #4
bkg
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by notbusdrvr View Post
We have a 2017 with the overcab sleeping area. We do not use it regularly except when the grandkids visit . . . but yes, it gets hot in the summer. Now that you discovered the diminished insulation up front, think I will tackle this project! Can't hurt as long as the panels still fit Might be a good chance to add a switch for the lighting so it can be switched from the bunk.
I ended up going with a similar bubble foil insulation. It's sold at both Home Depot and Lowes. I was going with fiberglass at first but the bats are heavier and i was concerned they would droop from the cap adding more weight to the ceiling panel - which already has the tendency to droop between the anchoring screws.
It's time consuming and tedious but I can tell a difference in the areas added. I went with 3 layers since in some of the pocket spaces, that's the thickest you can fit.

In regards to the light, I assume you are referring to the LED strip at the nose. That power wire runs along entrance side of the coach all the way to the front. When the side soft-touch panels are removed you can easily reach this wire without removal of the ABS ceiling panel. However, if you are going to add insulation, well the ceiling has to come down anyway.

Bobby
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