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Old 10-27-2020, 06:20 PM   #1
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Where is the Backup Camera wiring?

The backup camera on our 2018 Fuse has not been working properly for some time now. Usually after starting the RV after it has been in storage for a couple of weeks the camera comes on and works until the engine is shut down for some reason, perhaps to put diesel in, and when the engine is started again the camera no longer works.

I thought this might be the multiplexor since it sits in a very hot location above the cab seats and behind the front TV, but I ordered a new one and it did not help. The camera still would not work. That means that I probably need to check the wiring for frayed insulation or poor connections but I have no idea where that wiring might be. The backup camera itself is completely enclosed in a special part of the back wall with no wiring showing and I have no idea how it gets to the front of the cab to hook up to the multiplexor. The other side of the wiring, from the multiplexor to the display unit, is enclosed in a plastic "case" that sits on the inside of the windshield and I have no idea how to open it without damaging the case itself. It looks like it will open if I put a flat head screwdriver into the slot and twist it but I don't want to damage it and cause further problems.

The system is no longer under warranty (of course) but I do have an extended plan which should cover the cost of fixing or replacing it, except for the deductible ($50/$100) but getting the RV into the dealer is like pulling teeth - a 3 month wait - and a 2 month wait getting it into one of the local service shops, so I would like to see what I can do now.

Can anyone tell me how the wiring from the backup camera gets to the front of the RV in a 2018 Fuse? Or how to open the "case" that holds the wiring from the display unit (which is the "rear view mirror" on the RV)?
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Old 10-27-2020, 06:59 PM   #2
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I'm not an electrical/mechanical engineer, so these diagrams don't mean a lot to me, but maybe you can find your specific application - there are schematics with 3/4 view orientations, showing where the wires run, but again, unless you're used to looking at these things, they may not be much help.
Good luck.

Wiring Diagrams
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:11 PM   #3
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See it's still a problem! BUMMER!
But there is some info on cable route but not looking easy to get to it. Still here is some info from this drawing:
https://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2018/000209578.pdf
If you have a computer with big screen, it may be better to go to the orig. drawing for better view, but I did some tracing for what I see as important???
Clicking the pics will get a better/larger view?

Looks like under the bedboard, then to side wall pillar, down to floor and wrapping around to get to near the center of RV, where it goes up the backwall, behind the shower?
Note 2 (triangle2) says route along drivers side frame rail to get to back.
Maybe some help or maybe just info that makes it no good to get to it?
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:02 AM   #4
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Thanks to both of you for the wiring diagrams.

Given what I see it is not an easy job to trace the wires sine they are under the floor and behind the walls, especially considering that my electrical and mechanical expertise lies all in the theoretical rather than the practical. I do know the business end of a hammer and have some experience using screwdrivers but beyond that, not so much.

Perhaps this is a job for the experts.
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:23 AM   #5
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My thoughts were that it was not too much help but maybe worth a bit of looking - if inclined!
I think what these drawings show is that the wire "may" be somewhat handy to access where under the bed board but not much when it drops down the side, until it may pop out into view under the floor where it is likely strapped to the frame rail. Once it gets to the back access may require removing the shower!!!
But thinking of how and why wires get damaged, I know it it not likely in the places where they are totally covered. So if you look at where the wires go into those spaces, things can wear/rub at the holes but we might see the damage. For damage, I might look at the underneath side along the frame as a suspect as debris, etc. may do the that?
But in my view ( More like guessing?) when something is intermittent so that is comes and goes, I think of loose connections more than damage. Something like a loose coax connector which holds it close enough to rattle around and make or break the connection?

As a last thought, have you been able to access this set of connections or is that is in mystery box?
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJMike View Post
Thanks to both of you for the wiring diagrams.

Given what I see it is not an easy job to trace the wires sine they are under the floor and behind the walls, especially considering that my electrical and mechanical expertise lies all in the theoretical rather than the practical. I do know the business end of a hammer and have some experience using screwdrivers but beyond that, not so much.

Perhaps this is a job for the experts.
Is there a wireless alternative?
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Old 10-28-2020, 10:58 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Morich View Post
As a last thought, have you been able to access this set of connections or is that is in mystery box?
That appears to be the multiplexor and that is available in the cabinet behind the front TV. In fact it is the only item in the entire circuit that is easy to get to.

There are 3 connections to that box. One is the power connection, one is the input from the rear camera and the third is the output to the display unit. I have been able to remove and reconnect all of them, and have done so multiple times.

The power connector is a 3 x 2 set of connectors but the holes to access the actual wires is too small even for the probes on my multimeter, so I can not be sure that there is always power to the unit.

The input from the camera is a 5 pin connector, as is the output to the display unit. Both wires for those connectors are sealed and the place where they probably split off into RCA connectors is not visible or accessible as far as I can tell.

My initial view was that the problem was the multiplexor since wires are unlikely to break given that they are probably tied down and in a place where they an not be easily accessed, so I ordered a new one from Amazon. But when I connected the new multiplexor I still did not have any output to the display unit, and that left me in a bit of a quandary. I ordered from Amazon and that means that I can easily return it as not working, but it also means that the unit I got may well have been returned by someone else as not working because Amazon has the habit of taking returned items and putting them back in stock, so perhaps the multiplexor is the problem after all.

Or perhaps it is the power supply since I don't get any "No Input" message when I disconnect the camera connector. What I really need to do is try some additional inputs using the input RCA connector and see if that gives me any output.

Or perhaps it is the display unit since I have no indication that there is any input to the multiplexor. I need to connect some other display unit to the output of the multiplexor and see if that gives me anything.

In the end there are just a lot of possibilities, but my guess is that the most likely sources of the problem are the multiplexor and the input power supply. I am tempted to try to find some way to check to see if there is any input power in the power connector, but I don't have any wiring diagram to tell me which of the 6 holes is the 12 v wire and which is the ground, and I don't have any probes small enough to fit into the holes in the connector. Part of me says that I can figure this out since it is largely a theoretical issue, but another part of me says that I should just leave it alone and let the "experts" solve the problem since the cost of the repair should be minor - $50 if done but the dealer. Another part of me says that I should just add a rear view camera to augment the backup camera and that would give me a view of what is going on when I am towing, and also allow me time to figure out the backup camera issues.

Too many choices.
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:16 AM   #8
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YUP! Way too many ways to go at times.
Suggestion to take or leave on the power question and how to get to it. Been there on tiny micro things too small to reach with probes but an alternate to consider if worth doing?
If you have some small wire on hand, stripping a good portion of the insulation off enough wire to wrap good and tight around the probe end to hold it on, leave what you need to keep the two probe wires from touching and then just the bare end of the wire might let you get contact down in the hole where it sounds like you need to get?
That sound hard but what I'm talking is wire a long enough wire to the probes so that they can be laid back and then use the small gauge wire to act as probes. Being that I always have a stash of old telco/comm wire, I have used 24 gauge for this at times or if you have clips on the probe ends, clipping them to pins can let you get into tiny spots to test without taking things apart.
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
YUP! Way too many ways to go at times.
Suggestion to take or leave on the power question and how to get to it. Been there on tiny micro things too small to reach with probes but an alternate to consider if worth doing?
If you have some small wire on hand, stripping a good portion of the insulation off enough wire to wrap good and tight around the probe end to hold it on, leave what you need to keep the two probe wires from touching and then just the bare end of the wire might let you get contact down in the hole where it sounds like you need to get?
That sound hard but what I'm talking is wire a long enough wire to the probes so that they can be laid back and then use the small gauge wire to act as probes. Being that I always have a stash of old telco/comm wire, I have used 24 gauge for this at times or if you have clips on the probe ends, clipping them to pins can let you get into tiny spots to test without taking things apart.
I had thought about using paper clips - unbend them and see if they would fit into the holes in the connector, but perhaps your idea is better. I will see what I can find, but the connector is 3 x 2 so there are 6 holes and I have no idea which is the positive and which is the ground so it is going to be a lot of trial-and-error. On top of that the connector is at the end of a very short cable and while it is accessible it is not easily accessible. That is, I have to reach all the way to the back of the cabinet in the dark to get to it so doing the checking is not easy. Possible, but not easy. Still, it is a place to start.

Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 10-28-2020, 12:04 PM   #10
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Most wiring faults occur at the ends/connectors. Very rarely will a fault occur midstream. The integrity of a cable can be checked with a multimeter but you need access to both ends.
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Old 10-28-2020, 12:45 PM   #11
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They do make it hard, for sure. But on the odd chance that you can get enough wire pulled out and head in the right spot to see (HAH!) there are some things that might lead to help as the wires are supposed to have labels along the side of each.
I printed off the wire ID for those on the power connector and thought to pass it along as it might be something you could spot.
In doing that, I really wish we had the old type drawings that show each wire going from point to point like they have for older RV, so that we could trace it that way. But I also came across a bit about there being a relay involved and that may throw a whole different wrinkle into the chase.
The way I have snipped these, there are three different pictures of the PDF, one for each wire ID showing the "from" first and then the "TO" is next to the thing to the right.
Wire TR seems to be part of the backup lamps
UR is park brake switch or relay and sounds like it is directly involved in making the rear camera work???? but mentions relay.
KE doesn't have a listing for KE-1 but I have found other places where that means it come from a relay!!
This KE does say it comes from a power source and to general stuff where monitor is one item mentioned.
The only relay listed that I can spot are two near the entry door near the converter that I would guess are the battery cutoff relay and the battery mode relay, plus one which I can't ID.
You may know of one nearer the rear that looks like just above the floor and about over the left frame?? I marked what I think is the frame and floor in blue.
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Old 11-02-2020, 08:37 AM   #12
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I had a problem with two different coaches I’ve owned. Both time the camera went bad. I got so I don’t over think things anymore. On both coaches I found the same problem. The cable going from back to front was not secure where it entered the camera. Thus swinging in the back next to the camera the wiring went bad where it entered the camera. So after purchasing new cameras, on both coaches, I secured the end if the cable in the rear under in panels and no more problems. I purchased another coach and the same thing but this time I fixed it before it went bad...the manufacturer’s just don’t secure those cable at the camer....
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Old 03-06-2021, 06:42 AM   #13
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Did you ever figure out the problem with this?
I'm having similar issue, with no power to the box that controls this and fuse is good.
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Old 03-06-2021, 06:56 AM   #14
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Did you ever figure out the problem with this?
I'm having similar issue, with no power to the box that controls this and fuse is good.
I tried replacing the multiplexor box, but that did not solve the problem so I ended up taking it into the shop. They tested the unit and told me that the problem was the display unit, which on our Fuse is the "rear view mirror" device, and ended up replacing that, and it solved the problem.

However I am beginning to think that it may just be poorly designed as we started having problems a couple of months after the new unit was installed, and the problems are similar to what we saw earlier - the display unit would not turn off.

The first time this showed up was last year when we were at South Padre Island and the weather had turned particularly wet. The unit started malfunctioning, first by not turning on at all and then turning on and staying on. I could not turn it off. As we drove back to Arizona and the weather turned warmer and drier the problem went away, but then came back and stayed as a problem until fixed.

The other day when we were camping the weather turned both pretty cold (just above freezing) and wet, and the problem showed up with the new unit. Again it came on and would not turn off, although as it warmed up the problem disappeared. Currently it is working correctly, but I have no idea if it will stay that way or not.
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Old 03-06-2021, 07:07 AM   #15
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Thanks for the update.
Ive been trying to find where the power source actually originates.
I know on my Fuse 2017 the system normally comes on when the the key is turned on.
But now nothing and no power to the multiplexor box.
I figure there has to be another fuse somewhere.
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Old 03-06-2021, 09:34 AM   #16
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I also discovered my slide is not working either.
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:58 AM   #17
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Ford fuse are good.
I was looking at one of the Winnebago chassis wiring diagrams and found an area that had a wire labeled WH.
Cross referenced it do the wiring list and it is ignition run only over current protection.
Traced it to a 5A fuse on a panel that looked like it was under the RV behind the steps.
So I looked under and it was a sealed box. I found access to it on the first step inside the door.
That fuse was blown, replaced it and all works now.









Quote:
Originally Posted by AJMike View Post
I tried replacing the multiplexor box, but that did not solve the problem so I ended up taking it into the shop. They tested the unit and told me that the problem was the display unit, which on our Fuse is the "rear view mirror" device, and ended up replacing that, and it solved the problem.

However I am beginning to think that it may just be poorly designed as we started having problems a couple of months after the new unit was installed, and the problems are similar to what we saw earlier - the display unit would not turn off.

The first time this showed up was last year when we were at South Padre Island and the weather had turned particularly wet. The unit started malfunctioning, first by not turning on at all and then turning on and staying on. I could not turn it off. As we drove back to Arizona and the weather turned warmer and drier the problem went away, but then came back and stayed as a problem until fixed.

The other day when we were camping the weather turned both pretty cold (just above freezing) and wet, and the problem showed up with the new unit. Again it came on and would not turn off, although as it warmed up the problem disappeared. Currently it is working correctly, but I have no idea if it will stay that way or not.
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:10 AM   #18
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Good job of chasing the trouble with the limited info we get on the newer RV!
It's one of my bigger frustrations that we now get such super fine info from the parts catalog to locate things, but the much reduced wiring info for the same time period!

A small "help" that I've found on using the wire ID list may be worth mention---or maybe I'm the only one who did not know this?
When looking at the long list of ID on this list:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf
I find that if I hit CTRL and F it will bring a dropdown where I can put in a search word like "relay" and it will let me quickly locate any line item that has "relay" as part of the description.

Maybe a help to quickly sort what wires are involved in that slide problem?
They did not do us any favors when they stopped posting schematics for our RV.
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Old 03-08-2021, 10:57 AM   #19
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Yeah it fixed the slide issue also. As the RV has to be running to operate it.
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