View/Navion talk/questions

[Deny]

Originally Posted by Bompa13

Our new 2017 Navion 24G has a Norcold 3150 3 way Refrigerator.
My question to all you out there is on the operation of this unit
The Manual (Both the one that came with the unit & the correct one from Norcold's site for this Model) states that in Auto Mode the unit automatically selects the proper source of power for the unit
It says that it does so in this order of selection
#1 - 120VAC if available
#2 - 12VDC if engine is running
#3 - Propane w/ 12VDC control
Even with the engine running the unit will only select between 120VAC and LP
I have to manually switch it to 12VDC and it runs fine like that.
I called Norcold and 1st was told that there is a problem with a power board and to bring it to the dealer for a replacement of the board
I received an email today from another tech from Norcold that I was misinformed and that I have to manually select 12VDC as I am doing.
I copied the page from the manual and sent it to him stating that I expect it to work as it is described in the manual.
I'm sure many out there have this same unit and can tell me how there's works in Auto Mode

Thank you Mark

We had the Norcold in our 2014. It would occasionally go to 12V, on its own, but, 12V is a terrible choice because it will run batteries dead quickly. 12V is only a failsafe for the occasion that you run out of propane (the best option). We soon started putting the frig on propane ....and left it there for the entire trip (we had a diesel Gen). The frig uses next to no propane, even over 60 day runs.

I don't have the confidence that a tech, anywhere, could fix, repair, or improve the operation of what you have, without breaking something or making the operating system worse.

[NYBobbo]

I recently checked with my dealer about the same thing. It's working as it should according to them. It takes very little propane as previously stated. I do turn off the gas when going through tunnels near Baltimore/DC as required and it goes to 12v.
I keep a remote thermometer inside it also when the temps don't get to 40 in the fridge I need to defrost the unit. This was about 1 month in Fla. After defrosting it again reached colder temps.

[S Bradley]

Originally Posted by Bompa13

Our new 2017 Navion 24G has a Norcold 3150 3 way Refrigerator.
My question to all you out there is on the operation of this unit
The Manual (Both the one that came with the unit & the correct one from Norcold's site for this Model) states that in Auto Mode the unit automatically selects the proper source of power for the unit
It says that it does so in this order of selection
#1 - 120VAC if available
#2 - 12VDC if engine is running
#3 - Propane w/ 12VDC control
Even with the engine running the unit will only select between 120VAC and LP
I have to manually switch it to 12VDC and it runs fine like that.
I called Norcold and 1st was told that there is a problem with a power board and to bring it to the dealer for a replacement of the board
I received an email today from another tech from Norcold that I was misinformed and that I have to manually select 12VDC as I am doing.
I copied the page from the manual and sent it to him stating that I expect it to work as it is described in the manual.
I'm sure many out there have this same unit and can tell me how there's works in Auto Mode

Thank you Mark

We have the same unit in ours. If left in Auto it alway switches from Propane to 12V DC once the engine is started. If we stop and turn off the engine it switches back to Propane.
If we apply shore power (120V) it switches from Propane to 120V AC.
It works as the manual says and we don't have to do anything to make it change from one source to the other.

12V is not ideal but if the engine is running it will not run your batteries down. We have traveled 18 hours on several occasions with no issues.
12V is like a tender it will maintain the temperature in the fridge but don't expect it to cool as well as either of the other sources. If we are on 12V we rarely open the doors, it just can't make up for the lost cooling especially in hot climates. Try to park in reasonably flat areas so that the Propane system is working correctly, within 1/2 bubble in the bottom of the fridge is just fine. We use the Iphone level app. to level the fridge within 1% works, checked against the bubble level. If you're not aware of the level app. in your Iphone it is with the compass app. second dot.
If it isn't working right contact Norcold directly not a dealer, most dealers aren't aware of all the perplexities of the appliances in these units. Norcold should be able to help with trouble shooting. These things are expensive and should work as advertised.

[Camper Ken]

Originally Posted by Bompa13

Our new 2017 Navion 24G has a Norcold 3150 3 way Refrigerator.
My question to all you out there is on the operation of this unit
The Manual (Both the one that came with the unit & the correct one from Norcold's site for this Model) states that in Auto Mode the unit automatically selects the proper source of power for the unit
It says that it does so in this order of selection
#1 - 120VAC if available
#2 - 12VDC if engine is running
#3 - Propane w/ 12VDC control
Even with the engine running the unit will only select between 120VAC and LP
I have to manually switch it to 12VDC and it runs fine like that.
I called Norcold and 1st was told that there is a problem with a power board and to bring it to the dealer for a replacement of the board
I received an email today from another tech from Norcold that I was misinformed and that I have to manually select 12VDC as I am doing.
I copied the page from the manual and sent it to him stating that I expect it to work as it is described in the manual.
I'm sure many out there have this same unit and can tell me how there's works in Auto Mode

Thank you Mark

I had the same issue and question shortly after we bought our 2016 Navion last summer. I took it to the dealer for a couple of other minor issues and asked about the fridge not switching to 12 volt automatically. They called Norcold and were told the newer models do NOT automatically switch in and out of 12 volt mode. The automatic switching works only between propane and 120 volt.

I called Norcold myself and verfied this. The confusing thing is that the manual Winnebago includes says it WILL auto switch to 12 volt. They obviously included an older manual. Searching online I found a manual for my fridge dated later than the one included with the motorhome and it clearly states the automatic mode will NOT select 12 volt operation.

Even though propane use may be fairly low, when traveling a good distance (4 hours or more on the road), I'll manually switch it to 12 volt when the engine is running. However if you do this you must remember to manually switch it back to propane or 120 volt when you get to your destination.

[Bompa13]

Originally Posted by S Bradley

We have the same unit in ours. If left in Auto it alway switches from Propane to 12V DC once the engine is started. If we stop and turn off the engine it switches back to Propane.
If we apply shore power (120V) it switches from Propane to 120V AC.
It works as the manual says and we don't have to do anything to make it change from one source to the other.

12V is not ideal but if the engine is running it will not run your batteries down. We have traveled 18 hours on several occasions with no issues.
12V is like a tender it will maintain the temperature in the fridge but don't expect it to cool as well as either of the other sources. If we are on 12V we rarely open the doors, it just can't make up for the lost cooling especially in hot climates. Try to park in reasonably flat areas so that the Propane system is working correctly, within 1/2 bubble in the bottom of the fridge is just fine. We use the Iphone level app. to level the fridge within 1% works, checked against the bubble level. If you're not aware of the level app. in your Iphone it is with the compass app. second dot.
If it isn't working right contact Norcold directly not a dealer, most dealers aren't aware of all the perplexities of the appliances in these units. Norcold should be able to help with trouble shooting. These things are expensive and should work as advertised.

Thanks for the Info. I agree the unit is probably best on Propane while moving but just going off the manual.
i haven't heard anything back from the factory tech after I questioned him.

Mark

[Bompa13]

Originally Posted by Camper Ken

I had the same issue and question shortly after we bought our 2016 Navion last summer. I took it to the dealer for a couple of other minor issues and asked about the fridge not switching to 12 volt automatically. They called Norcold and were told the newer models do NOT automatically switch in and out of 12 volt mode. The automatic switching works only between propane and 120 volt.

I called Norcold myself and verfied this. The confusing thing is that the manual Winnebago includes says it WILL auto switch to 12 volt. They obviously included an older manual. Searching online I found a manual for my fridge dated later than the one included with the motorhome and it clearly states the automatic mode will NOT select 12 volt operation.

Even though propane use may be fairly low, when traveling a good distance (4 hours or more on the road), I'll manually switch it to 12 volt when the engine is running. However if you do this you must remember to manually switch it back to propane or 120 volt when you get to your destination.

I went onto Norcold's website and when to my specific model N3150 and kept following links for all information pertaining to this model and downloaded the manual that was linked to it.
The manual is Part # 635607E ( 2013/05/14 )
I don't see any other manual newer listed but maybe one is out there.
I have talked to 2 people from Norcold, The 1st one I was transferred to after registering the unit that told me that it was supposed to Auto Switch to 12VDC if engine is running
The 2nd tech emailed that I was misinformed and that it only switches between 120 and Propane

I'm not going to drop this until I see proof in the form of an updated manual

Thanks for the information

Mark

[Old Crows]

From the 2013/5/14 manual...

"Selecting a source
After turning the refrigerator on, push the source button several times, as illustrated. Push
until the desired source is selected.
Sources
Auto The refrigerator automatically selects the best source available
(in order: AC, DC, gas)

AC The refrigerator is powered by AC.

DC The refrigerator is powered by the battery of your vehicle.

Gas The refrigerator is powered by propane gas.Always use the gas or AC mode to start up and cool. Operating on 12V DC is only effective while the engine of the vehicle is running. If the ‘auto’ function on the refrigerator is selected, but no source is available, a light in the on/off switch blinks red. The performance of the refrigerator operating on 12V DC is dependent on the thickness and length of the wiring and the overall installation of the vehicle."

If the LP is turned on and Auto selected. It works as described... EXCEPT!!!!! On DC. Power never comes fro the batteries. Its only supplied by alternator when engine is running..... To say "12V DC is only "effective" when engine is running" is true but misleading. The unit can be initialized when you turn on the coach master. "More effective" means it won't cool unless the engine is running and providing 12V DC power.

It works as described. AC - shore or generator; LP if shore, generator or engine not available (LP & Coach Master ON); DC if engine running. It will Auto shift and pick the best available source.

If you manually select AC,DC or LP....the auto shift does not work and you are on your own.

Running the fridge on AUTO is the way to go. It is seamless operation. The DC heater element has plenty of power (and being supplied by the diesel's alternator the supply is endless) to keep things cold as well as ice cream solid and make ice while under way. It's just old school to think you must run with LP on to keep things cold. AND... If you stop for a break it shifts to LP so you don't have to remember to do so.

[gosman]

I thought these new Sprinters had invertors in them. This way the frig can operate on 110 volt?

[Cyclops]

Originally Posted by S Bradley

Did you consider a 1/4 turn ball valve instead of the gate valve?

Looking into this mod myself; where did you find a threaded plug to accept the valve?

I did indeed, and some have used them, but I decided to go with the gate as the opening inside the valve is about 3x as large, the ball valves have about a 1/4 round opening at best through the ball. I wanted as much unrestricted flow as possible and, it's hard to find a male threaded 3/4" ball valve. I could have sweat and adapter on, but I also wanted to keep things compact back there. I got the adapter at home depot, and the hose bib cap off an old sprinkler.

[Bompa13]

I understand you should have a new unit's alignment checked after you load it the way you plan and with tanks as full as possible.
My question is if you need to take to MB shop or can take to any GOOD alignment shop to have this done??

[Old Crows]

Originally Posted by gosman

I thought these new Sprinters had invertors in them. This way the frig can operate on 110 volt?

They do. But they do not run the fridge. When 12V is available its more efficient to run direct 12V from the alternator.

Trust that the fridge's "brain" knows what its doing when you put it on Auto. It picks the most efficient of the available energy sources.

[Cyclops]

Originally Posted by Bompa13

I understand you should have a new unit's alignment checked after you load it the way you plan and with tanks as full as possible.
My question is if you need to take to MB shop or can take to any GOOD alignment shop to have this done??

My MB dealership couldn't do the alignment so I went to a reputable shop here in town that could handle trucks and RVs. They charged me $100. I would recommend getting this done as soon as possible (loaded as you will be traveling) as our alignment from the factory was way out of whack.

[Hmnbrdlady]

I can't seem to figure out the organization of this forum and how to start a new post, so please forgive me if this gets tacked onto someone else's post incorrectly. I'm out on my maiden voyage with my new to me 2015 24g. I have a couple of questions:
1. When I put a DVD in the player up front, I can see the picture on the back bedroom TV, but there is no sound coming through the TV. I can only hear sound through the ceiling speakers up front, which don't provide enough sound in the back unless I crank up the sound so loud the entire campground can hear.
2. Is the gray water tank emptied by gravity or a pump? There is a pump switch in the service bay and the tech told me it was to pump out the tank. I think that switch is for pumping in antifreeze for winterizing. The previous owner installed a valve on the gray tank piping, but the opening is a strange size.
3. Do you have any issues with water getting everywhere when using the shower?

[Old Crows]

My Lady....

Sorry can't help with No. 1.

No. 2. Always empty the poo tank first. Hook up your big fat drain hose mid-ships and plug into camp septic system. Pull the black T-handle near the hose hook up. Poo drains by gravity so you want to have some volume in the tank to carry everything out of the tank. When empty, close the black T-handle. Some times it helps to walk the big hose out by raising it so everything drains out. Now.... Go to the water closet. Pull the grey T-handle under the cabinet. Push and hold the rocker switch for the pump. Gray water is pumped from the tank up to just short of the big fat hose connector. (You can see a small hose connecting to the big black plastic pipe.) Hold it on until you hear the impeller unload.. Sudden high whine!!! You are empty!!!! Close the grey T-handle. Recover your big fat hose and stow it. You have also flushed the big fat hose!!!! Yeah!!!!

On my View, the pump is mounted high up and there is a factory installed T, with a cap, in the low part of the pipe coming from tank to pump. I think it is an "emergency" drain point....should you ever need it.

There is a valve & hose in closet that allows you to suck antifreeze into the system. Hose in jug undr RV; open valve to winterize & turn on the water pump. It suck up the AF and charge the system. See your manual....for details.

No 3. Be sure the curtain is inside the tub surround.... Obvious. We wet the sides of the curtain and "stick" them to the plastic tub. Works pretty well. Not perfect....

[gr8]

Originally Posted by Cyclops

Hi Sam,
Not sure which model you have. We have a 24V, and it has a cleanout on the line from the grey tank to the pump. I put a silcock in place of the cleanup plug
Attachment 129114

OK where do you live? we will come over and have you install one on ours LOL
(2old women and 2dogs) We bought the 2016 24V Navion This is all new to us. Still trying to figure out the generator UMmm? I think our error in it not working is because we didn't open the propane valves duh
Just wondering, is there a need for any kind of surge protector from generator power to electrical system? We use the Progessive Industries PTC 30 amp portable electrical management system for shore power protection, hence we have that one covered. So much to learn need a tearing out hair smilie and an engineering degree.

[seahenry]

Once you pull the grey water handle then hold down on the pump switch, your tank should empty...you will hear the pump speed up in sound after the grey tank has emptied.

[Old Crows]

GR8

Should be no need for protection on the generator. It is a "trusted" source. Shore power....you betcha! Shore power can be hinky.

Always good to turn LP on.....!

[Bompa13]

Originally Posted by Old Crows

GR8

Should be no need for protection on the generator. It is a "trusted" source. Shore power....you betcha! Shore power can be hinky.

Always good to turn LP on.....!

While I do agree the gen set is probably more reliable than some of the poorly maintained campground electrical systems you can have problems with generators such as voltage regulators, connections coming loose. In the 3 RV's I have owned I have installed a hard wired Energy management/Protector system after the transfer switch to help protect the whole RV's electrical system.

[Hmnbrdlady]

Do you wedge anything to hold the pump switch in the on position while dumping? It's awkward leaning under there and holding the switch.

[Deny]

Originally Posted by Bompa13

I understand you should have a new unit's alignment checked after you load it the way you plan and with tanks as full as possible.
My question is if you need to take to MB shop or can take to any GOOD alignment shop to have this done??

Go to the "GOOD SHOP"

MB repair shops are great for warranty & inherent MB problems.....but tires & alignment are best done by your local owner/operator that you know to be good. I drove 75 miles round trip to have my sprinter aligned by the "right" guy. He asked me questions about ride & drive before he started, then he consulted with me when he was done.

the cost for your "known" good man is incidental. An extra 35-50 bucks is not much when you consider the price of misplacing a mis-aligned tire.

I change my own oil & I don't let rv shops touch my rig....unless it's my last option.