View/Navion Owners - How do you do boondocking?

[jcurtisis]

Originally Posted by rx4fishing

I used a double sided sticky tape from 3 m, and the solar panel hasn’t moved an inch. There are some great videos on u tube concerning this, search and check them out. I can give you some of them but can’t this second. The solar panel I used was a fexible, thin panel, about 4 lbs.

Thanks. I can get the info on the 3M tape. Was it a 100watt panel? What brand solar panel and what was the cost please?

[rx4fishing]

It was a Sunpower panel, same as the other two panels that came with the rv. I am not home, but cost was around $200. There are other flexible solar panels, so search around also. It was very easy to add.

[jcurtisis]

Thanks. Our rig came with Zamp panels.

[jcurtisis]

Originally Posted by rx4fishing

I used a double sided sticky tape from 3 m, and the solar panel hasn’t moved an inch. There are some great videos on u tube concerning this, search and check them out. I can give you some of them but can’t this second. The solar panel I used was a fexible, thin panel, about 4 lbs.

Ron,
Who manufactured the panel? Cost? Thanks!

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by jcurtisis

I’m interested to know what type panel you got and how you attached it to the roof. I’m thinking about doing the same thing to my 18 ND.

I have four 100W high-efficiency solar panels from Renogy Solar on tilt brackets fastened to the roof of my Itasca Spirit (class C) using nothing but 3M VHB double sided sticky tape. I keep checking for failed seal; none so far after 9 months and 6-7k miles.

[JoeC]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I have four 100W high-efficiency solar panels from Renogy Solar on tilt brackets fastened to the roof of my Itasca Spirit (class C) using nothing but 3M VHB double sided sticky tape. I keep checking for failed seal; none so far after 9 months and 6-7k miles.

Adding on to my post: Anyone looking to do this, I highly recommend to follow the directions on the tape carefully and thoroughly clean the fastening area with the proper cleaners for your roof type. Make sure the roofing material is compatible with the bonding agent on the tape.

[gurroz]

I cannot speak to the 24D but I can speak to boondocking in a small motorhome with minimum resources. We use two AGM batteries that are 85ah each which means we have 85ah usable. We try not to use the on board generator, we also carry a Yamaha 2000 inverter/generator. We have a 200 watt Renogy solar suitcase for charging the batteries during the day. In addition we use a Bluetti 500 watt 45ah solar inverter/generator. Our day looks something like this. Overnight we charge up any electronic devices that need charging using the Bluetti as well as the coach batteries. We do not use the RV heater as it is unefficient and uses a lot of power. We use a Camco Wave 6 heater with adequate ventilation. It will use one 20lb canister of propane in 14 days on low. In the morning we start charging the coach batteries and the Bluteti with solar. If need be at the end of the day we may run the Yamaha generator to top things off if needed. At night we use the Bluetti to power the television (it will run the TV for 6.5 hours.) We generally watch a 2 hr movie and turn it off. As for water we carry two 5 gallon collapsible water containers in the shower and add them as needed. We also empty dish water into the black tank which conserves gray water usage and adds more liquid to the black tank. The portable solar generators can really help. I would like to purchase a 1000 watt unit next year.

[Kayak73]

There are few shortcuts when DRYcamping with the V2018 24D. You need LiFeP04 batteries, a good charger and a diesel generator. It helps to have better solar panel install than the OEM but that usually depends on your camp site, location and time of the year. In some places, some times good solar can be your recharge method and little or no generator time. Yes, the compressor refrigerator made dry camping a bit more challenging. I do like the way it keeps food. I don't like the noise or the amp hours used. Our first View was an 06V23H and we could dry camp a very long time - LP fridge which ran forever on LP. You have better battery choices with the new 2020 View, pay for the lithium or add them yourself. Don't go crazy over solar. If you order the thing new you could go through Lichtsinn and get rigid panels and a better install up front. I would definitely order it just to get NO flexible solar panels installed from the factory. They are a mess to remove and you will remove them. Not sure but they might have returned or plan to return to rigid panels - good.

Once you decide how to keep the compressor fridge working everything else is gravy, no issues dry camping at all. That is a $3k-5k decision if done right. My thoughts after messing with the thing two years is LiFeP04, read up a bit, do the install right with a good charger etc. After all that you can get a good solar install. Then you will love the compressor fridge.

[DonPhillipe]

Seven year full-timer here. 2006 J Model and wouldn't trade it for anything esle!


The funniest phenomenon regarding a refrigerator powered from propane vs. a lithium power bank supplying a compressor fridge is that while many happily walk away from a $1000 upgrade option to a propane fridge on the showroom floor, they turn around and pay 5,000-10,000 dollars for a lithium and solar system to run their electric compressor fridge without too many complaints. I'm full-timing in my 2006 model and my longest boondock was 2 weeks but I admit I flagged down a port-a-potty truck servicing the units next door to give me a pump out. We just duct taped his sucker hose to my sewer hose and ka-whoosh, it was all emptied. I'd never own a compressor fridge while boondocking because now with propane I can park anywhere and take a bus, train or ferry and be gone up to a month with the fridge working well on propane. In contrast, without open sky and in areas like the PNW, I could quite easily return to a loss of nearly the price of the fridge should I loose a freezer full of high dollar meats, condiments and specialty foods. For water heating, I added two pex lines through a valve back into the house water pump and turn it on to recirculate the hot water, so no waiting for the water to warm and nothing down the drain waiting for it to get warm. Don't "do" on-demand water heaters because never seen one that didn't waste 5 gallons of water just trying to get the temp right. Also only use the inverter when blending drinks or grinding coffee.

Propane fuels everything else. Still a new or unmodified coach from any vendor these days is laughably ready for any serious boondocking and you've got to shell out several grand to get it ready. It's even worse if they installed a system for like 100W "begginer" and their "master boondocker" maximum upgrade is 300 laughable watts. All of the wiring will need replacing, solar controllers, etc so may as well order "nothing" and do a much better install than the factory anyway.

You are going to need a water strategy and how to obtain it, how to filter it and even how to get it into your tank when you sling it up the hill in 5 gallon bags - that doesn't just pour into a garden hose, you know. Still if you have not been out on the road, some snaky vendors have sold every gas station at least on the west coast a machine that you have to fill with about a quarter per liter of water and this is not only hard to deal with mechanically while stuffing in money or your credit card, but your head will almost explode from the concept.

You are going to need a sewer dump every couple of weeks which is a no brainer, and you'll need Internet and additional power for it and need to switch to low wattage lighting, devices to charge everything off 12V is better than turning on the inverter. (And did I mention if the coach is over 10 years old it might not have an inverter or if it is new it will likely be tinyier than you need and it will also likely be modified sinewave instead of pure.) And you'll need pure water for drinking while noting that the beer-can style filters everyone jumps on like buying a canteen for their new boyscout kit, these are all a rip off and joke and those who believe they can filter out the same as a bottling plant can lean a little toward the rube-ish side. Anyone thinking of hiring a RVer to work at water filtering plant should have second thoughts, as they just don't understand the concept.

Keeping cool is more than double a challenge, learning there is no power for the A/C while boondocking is a shocker as well as that it takes 1 tank per night of propane or about 13 gallons to keep the A/C blowing and generators are always like something else where the owner doesn't think their own stinks - but it always does. Just ask you neighbors. There are other electric devices like CPAP, O2 concentrators and all kinds of power needs one forgets about that they may need over time and especially when the power goes off. A couple of Maxxair or Endless Breeze can chew up 10aH alone and 24 x 10aH on a blistering hot season can raise the demand to 240aH just for fans alone and forget anything in the fun department. Same is true for near constant furnace blower load of the same and at 20F outside it runs continuously. Most batteries will be dead by dawn if you don't invest 5 figures in lithium.

The V/N also uses electric oven and with no hookups, there goes your microwave and oven. There's too many things to consider to list actually. Then the ?overly-optimistic" we see on youtube where someone has installed a 1400 watt solar "raised roof" and they expect to run the A/C all day on that but that's still only good for about 4 hrs of A/C use. And trust me, nothing's worse than getting used to an A/C half the night and having it tick off at 3AM. Then once you drain all that from the enormously deep pocketed owners who have 10-20K aH lithium banks - oops they've forgotten they have to put all that energy back in again to start over the next night. This normally means their solar peters out about mid-afternoon and either they are back into a generator (assuming they've upgraded to an expensive high-amp lithium charger) or they are idling to charge off a second alternator high amp setup they bought from a high end vendor.

So if this sounds like I'm down on things, don't dare believe it, I'm just down on some of these comments and beliefs that I read about and mostly all these penny click-bait wonder-buses I see on youtube. Technology has not progressed to the point that anyone on a 24' vehicle can be energy independent in any kind of sporty looking rig with big windows and all the cutsy things people expect in RVs these days. If you want an energy efficent coach and to run exclusively on solar and with that you include heating in 20F and cooling in 104F, you are going to need an overlanding vehicle that has living quarters that appears similar to the local fish delivery truck. It might have a couple of tiny windows but the walls are ultra thick and then everything is insulated as it should be to give a perfect living environment off the sun's energy but problem is, you will never see the sun indoors in the process. (Noting the instruction manual has a chapter "Don't expext your cake and eat it too")

Ha, ha and no charge for just saving anyone about 2 years of research. Basically what you have to do is make a few mods to your boondocking vehicle (or actually maybe 5000?) and head out and enjoy life. If you don't want to live in a reefer truck, then you have to drive where the weather matches what you are comfortable living in. I love my lifestyle, I don't expect too much, I fix everything that breaks myself and if there's a way to make something work with the limited space and resources I have, I'm going to make that happen. I have about 11 DC and USB fans of various sizes for the blistering summers, and a lot of heaters including wall space-style, propane, diesel and electric heater. So I'm good up to about 95F and down to about 20F. Otherwise I bail. YMMV

[JoeC]

I pretty much concur. Been boondocking for 3-4 years. There is a lot to it and you are correct about factory "looks good on paper" boondock options that are not worth the paper they are printed on. Good thing these things have wheels on them because you don't want to be in AZ in the summer or MN in the winter.

Home base is TN and that works for spring and fall, so we head south to FL, TX, AZ for the winter and anywhere north for the summer. Even then you can get caught in a heatwave and need to head for an RV park for electric to power the A/C. The south can get cold in winter, but it usually doesn't last for too long. Always keep tabs on the weather where you are at and where you are going so you are prepared if you need to tank up and hunker down to ride it out. It can be challenging, but that's part of the fun.

[Shedboy]

View/Navion Owners - How do you do boondocking?

Have been active boondocker in Navion22M about 8yrs, 50+ Kmiles, inc Baja CA Mexico, BC, Queen Charlotte Islands, Yukon, NW Territories, Alaska & most western states. How you boondock determines the set up that is good for you. Our longest trip was 4 weeks “into the wild” Alaska/Territory/Artic Ocean wilderness followed by a trip to the tip of Baja California. In one case there was an abundance of water, in the other, a scarcity. Here are some ideas that work for us, my wife and a small dog.
Categories:
1. DRINKING WATER
a. Carry drinking water bottles in unused space under rear interior nook bench seat
b. 3 gal plastic jug in right front cargo compartment (next to 1 gal windshield fluid)
c. Camco twin H2O filter (15 micron followed by 5 micron, carry extra 15 micron) with hooks installed on frame that attach (hang from) to open cargo compartment
d. Carry “Water Bandit” hose adapter (Camco) along with 50’ hose hung from ladder hooks
e. Install 12vdc lighter socket in left rear cargo bay, purchase 12VDC water pump from Harbor Freight Tools (HTF). Allows H2O collection from lakes/streams.
f. Use bleach, iodine for disinfectant
g. In some places beer is highly prized, and will get you a lot of other things you might want. Carry some in lieu of water for bartering.

2. ENERGY
a. Propane
i. Install “Extend-a-Stay” allows additional external propane tank hookup.
ii. Install “quick-disconnect” fitting fm extend-a-stay next to main fill port
iii. Carry 3 gal backup propane bottle inside of empty plastic utility bucket front left compartment, next to ii above. (hi-pressure propane hose, sewer hose, collapsible shovel and hose fittings in same compartment).
b. Electricity
i. Replaced 2 12VDC batteries with 2 6VDC. Big improvement in AH
ii. Installed auto transfer switch gen to shore pwr, later model Navions came with this transfer switch installed.
iii. Installed a 110VAC plug in passenger seat base, good for heating blanket, battery charger, portable air compressor or laptop computer.
iv. Carry 2 25 Watt solar panels in front right compartment with cigarette lighter connector. Will charge engine battery using dashboard cigarette lighter, takes about a day of bright sunlight, or using the mid-ship connector to charge chassis batteries to half charge.
v. Have installed a 12 vdc fan pointed to the heat exchanger inside the gas/elect refr , haven't hooked it up yet.

c. Alternative
i. New addition - have a 400 watt vertical wind turbine but it’s too big and unreliable to be of much use for a boondocker, a lot of time to set up and tear down. Very sensitive to trees/structures that block or change the direction of the wind. Works good in Wyoming!
ii. Often boondock near fast flowing streams. There are portable water turbines available that look interesting.


3. RV Mobility
a. 3gal jug DEF in front right cargo compartment
b. 1 gal windshield washer fluid left front cargo compartment
c. Tire chains, lug wrench, inflation fluid, jack, gauge & tire tools, rear right compartment
d. Install lug lock on spare tire, it is an easy target for organized thief’s
e. Added a hitch mounted HTF cargo carrier with a lockable aluminum cargo box strapped to it. Can carry four 5 gal diesel cans, tools, inflatable kayak w 12V air compressor powered from trailer hitch connector or outdoor grill with hose to extend-a-stay quick disconnect.
f. Installed Camco ladder mount bicycle rack that carries 4 HTF camp chairs.
4. Communications –
a. Over The Air (OTA)
i. Your RV came with it, manually adjusted “bat wing” directional antenna
ii. Effective for local TV stations and programming
b. WIFI:
i. Install WiFi antenna
1. on roof (consider overall height)
a. Directional
i. Needs to be pointed at sending antenna
ii. Stronger signal than other types
iii. Not as tall as other types
b. Omni Directional
i. Does not need to be pointed at signal source
ii. Less powerful than directional antennas
2. portable, carry in cargo compartment
3. STARLINK - new service, low orbit WiFi satellites, may require specialized roof mounted antenna
a. high quality, reliable signal in western hemisphere
b. somewhat expensive
c. limited channel selection for now
ii. Install WiFi wireless extender/repeater
1. Several models available
2. WEB computer/cell phone WIFI access
iii. Choose WiFI Reciever
1. Smart TV, has streaming capability built-in
2. Install streaming TV “thumb drive” on existing TV
a. Roku
b. Amazon FireStick
c. Apple TV
d. Sling TV
3. TV Receiver Requirements
a. 3 HDMI inputs
i. Walley (Dish TV)
ii. Security (outdoor) Camera
iii. Cell Phone content display
b. 3 USB3 inputs
i. Local TV Stations Stick
ii. Streaming TV Stick
iii. PC Input (use TV for PC Display)
iv. Option – streaming TV recorder memory
c. ETHERNET (wired cable internet) uncommon @ RV Parks, good for homeoffice
1. Install CAT5 ethernet cable with marine rated connectors from right front cabinet (computer) to left rear cargo compartment
2. Carry 50’ CAT5 cable in left rear cargo compartment
3. Fast download of data, video, music from server computer, easy connection to other Ethernet devices, inc. extenders, external PC’s
d. SATILLITE TV:
i. (1) Dish TV
ii. (2) Direct TV
iii. Starlink (WiFi)
iv. HughsNet
v. MotoSat
e. (3) SATELLITE Radio, SIRIUS
f. INSTALLATION wire mold conduit on wall behind TV from front right cabinet to overhead cabinet.
i. Small footprint computer in bottom cabinet, HDMI input to TV
ii. Travl’r Dish Antenna on roof, cables prewired to Wally Dish Rcvr in right overhead cabinet, Wally cables to TV
1. Mount 3 compartment remote holder on left side of overhead cabinet, one for TV, one for Wally, one for WiFi streamer
iii. WiFi Repeater/extender on roof ladder, WiFi cable run to computer/TV behind right side cabinets, following heater hoses.
5. OTHER
a. COMPUTER
i. Use remote keyboard (logitec)
ii. Use RV TV screen for computer display
iii. Can stream no-cost entertainment TV on computer using computer display
iv. Put Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS) in front right cabinet
v.
b. SAFETY AND SECUITY
i. Animals
1. Bugs, snakes, mammals
2. 1st Aid Kit, mosquito spray
ii. Humans (flee or fight)
1. Phone (if it connects)
2. Surrender
3. Fight
a. Whistle
b. Aerosol Boat Horn
c. Pepper spray (may get you arrested crossing the border)
d. Self Defense
i. martial arts
ii. Firearms (may get you arrested crossing the border)
iii. Taser
iii. Accidents/injuries
1. 1st aid training, CPR
2. Trauma kit
3. 1st aid kit
4. Distress signaling devices/dyes/GPS locator