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Old 10-03-2021, 08:05 PM   #61
Winnebago Vita 24P
 
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Sacramento
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I just completed making a 280ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. My old group 31 batteries weighed 144 lbs. my new battery is 51 lbs, and takes up space of one of the previous batteries. I changed my converter WFCO with a mod kit for lithium, and added a DC to DC Renolgy converter to protect the alternator. Tested this weekend and everything so far is good. Need to finish sealing the battery tray in the step, and I may add vent to the inside of the Cab to keep excessive temps down. Total cost everything is Under $850 including buying a Scientific power supply to balance the battery cells. I have 300 watts solar on roof and one moveable on outside for shady spots. Solar panels when ran in parallel should be same voltage. ie 17-21 volts. Cables in this entire system are the weak points.
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Old 10-04-2021, 06:52 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Jfedor View Post
Anyone know if it’s possible to use the oem port and snake thicker cable through.
The way Winnebago runs cabling through channels in the styrofoam sub-roof before the luan and Filon are put on makes that seem doubtful. But that’s just a guess on my part. Some wires run this way are bundled into a wiring harness sort of grouping.

If one person on the roof tugs on that wiring coming from the Zamp port is any movement seen at the other end at the Zamp charge controller???

With 10-ga wiring from the roof it makes using series connections to increase the voltage desirable BUT with the Zamp controller this would not be possible. The Zamp PWM controller is ~12v only.

In Winnebago RVs that place the Zamp controller in the interior of the RV as a prominent electronic monitor it would be very difficult to change out the controller for another brand or style. My controller was in a basement compartment, which I thought was a bad location, I could never see the readout. But it did allow me to remove it and replace it with a Victron MPPT controller.
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Old 10-04-2021, 10:24 AM   #63
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DavidM is usually spot on with his advice but, personally, I wouldn't worry about 375w and a 30-amp spec'd system (controller, roof port, 10-ga wire). At absolute optimum peak output - which never exists - 375w will never reach 30-amps at 12v. Sure it's close to that number, but would never reach let alone exceed that.

Zamp will say 500w is the max, and most others say 400 to 420w is the max that system can handle. So, I would not be concerned with 375w of solar panels. DavidM may disagree.

Winnebago does spec 10-ga wire from the roof to the controller which is theoretically adequate but I'd be happier with 8-ga. FYI, my system is 10-ga, too and it's a much larger RV. I'm less happy with the 10-ga wire from the Zamp controller to the battery bank. But again, theoretically it's fine.
Thank you for this comment

David M may be correct in his interpretation and added cost of electrical calculation design for improving this factory 25' RV setup. It appears his intent is to share his ideas for others to maximize the AMP creation using his selected components.

However my intent was to share and use the existing 2018 Winnebago Factory solar setup. My goal is more efficient operation, improve to a higher charge rate of 83% to ZAMP top end and maximize storage capacity with efficient batteries at the least cost.

I referenced the NEC calculated load.
The general calculated load must be at least 100% for the first 10kVA, plus 40% of the remainder of the following loads.

I felt the added insulation was important to keep an adequate battery temperature into a manageable range. Most of the Factory RV's to my knowledge, does not provide insulation in their battery compartments.
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Old 10-05-2021, 12:38 AM   #64
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I too have added insulation to the stairway battery box for my lithium battery. However I am going to add venting to the stairway side of battery box to allow heat and cooling of the coach to help in temp control. The battery I constructed has a BMS that has temp control and blue tooth so I can monitor the battery temps. I insulated the cable entry points and all exterior walls on the battery box.
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Old 10-11-2021, 08:40 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativepart View Post
DavidM is usually spot on with his advice but, personally, I wouldn't worry about 375w and a 30-amp spec'd system (controller, roof port, 10-ga wire). At absolute optimum peak output - which never exists - 375w will never reach 30-amps at 12v. Sure it's close to that number, but would never reach let alone exceed that.

Zamp will say 500w is the max, and most others say 400 to 420w is the max that system can handle. So, I would not be concerned with 375w of solar panels. DavidM may disagree.

Winnebago does spec 10-ga wire from the roof to the controller which is theoretically adequate but I'd be happier with 8-ga. FYI, my system is 10-ga, too and it's a much larger RV. I'm less happy with the 10-ga wire from the Zamp controller to the battery bank. But again, theoretically it's fine.
I found my Winnebago Vita has 8 guage wire from the solar panels as well as 8 guage to the batteries. I have a self constructed 280ah Lithium with a DC to Dc Renology converter from the alternator, and I change out the Converter guts to accomodate proper plug in charging for the lithiums.
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Old 04-10-2022, 07:32 PM   #66
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Custom battery

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Originally Posted by lenore View Post
I too have added insulation to the stairway battery box for my lithium battery. However I am going to add venting to the stairway side of battery box to allow heat and cooling of the coach to help in temp control. The battery I constructed has a BMS that has temp control and blue tooth so I can monitor the battery temps. I insulated the cable entry points and all exterior walls on the battery box.
I am looking at building a custom battery as well for my 2020 Navion since the area under the steps is tight. Similar to you I plan to go with 4 280/310Ah cells or 8 230Ah cells. What BMS did you use? What is your max current draw? Any chance you have a picture of the completed area under the steps if it is similar in your Vita? Thanks.
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Old 04-10-2022, 08:48 PM   #67
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I am looking at building a custom battery as well for my 2020 Navion since the area under the steps is tight. Similar to you I plan to go with 4 280/310Ah cells or 8 230Ah cells. What BMS did you use? What is your max current draw? Any chance you have a picture of the completed area under the steps if it is similar in your Vita? Thanks.
I used a Overkill BMS 130Amp. I really suggest you might consider one of the Renogy 200ah batteries. They are on sale right now. Constructing the battery is tedious, and requires balancing the cells (requires a DC power supply with at least 10 amp output) Prices on batteries have dropped considerably. My battery area had two group 31 batteries before. If you do construct the battery really do your homework, and the prismatic cells need to be bound together to stop swelling. Lots of videos available. My Vita is a 2020 but on the 2018 Mercedes chassis. Battery box is very similar with the Navion. By the way mine has performed very well. Your coach has a different refrigerator which is the main draw on my Vita. Mine is AC only. So the inverter is required when not hooked up to shore power or generator. If you joined your Navion/View site there are folks their that have done exactly what you are planning. Wish I had that posting on my computer, but do not.
Safe travels.
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Old 04-11-2022, 08:35 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenore View Post
I too have added insulation to the stairway battery box for my lithium battery. However I am going to add venting to the stairway side of battery box to allow heat and cooling of the coach to help in temp control. The battery I constructed has a BMS that has temp control and blue tooth so I can monitor the battery temps. I insulated the cable entry points and all exterior walls on the battery box.
FOLLOW UP
Probably a good idea to vent a side opening.

I have installed a Thermometer to monitor my insulated battery compartment. I left an opening in the stairwell frame to allow ventilation. To date, when driving the temperature remains ambient. When parked, the compartment does have a temperature increase but only 10 degrees F higher than the ambient temperature outside with my Relion 12V 100 AMP Group 31.
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