View 2018 Chassis battery drain

Dougherzog · 07-10-2022, 05:05 AM

I've posted before and have another question. My chassis battery drains down in five days with the battery disconnect, connected, and still drains down in a little over one week if disconnected. Has anyone had luck with adding a charger, regulator to the coach batteries that trickle charge the chassis batteries using the rooftop solar panels? I hope I said this correctly.

Lmonger · 07-10-2022, 06:35 AM

I can plug this into my lighter port from the dinette outlet. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-...ner-63350.html .

I can also use my Victron Inverter Charger Multiplus 3K trickle-charge port.

Dougherzog · 07-10-2022, 06:49 AM

Does it come with the plug for the cigarette lighter?

Lmonger · 07-10-2022, 07:21 AM

I believe so.

Winterbagoal · 07-10-2022, 09:57 AM

The Stanley FatMax BC8S charger maintainer is what I use - plug the AC end into an inverted outlet (I use the one on the outside, forward wall of the bathroom) and then the 12VDC "bullet" into the cigarette lighter outlet under the dash pull out ash tray drink holder, as Lmonger has suggested. Remember to leave your inverter "on". The panels charge the coach batteries, which is then inverted to 120VAC, and the BC8S flips it back to 12VDC charging current for the chassis battery.
The BC8S may be discontinued, but there's probably something similar out there.

**creativepart** · 07-10-2022, 10:12 AM

You might try a simple Battery Minder type low amp charger. Mine is from Griot's Garage but I think it's made by Battery Minder.

These are simply able to keep your Chassis battery topped up. And, they are smart chargers. Mine was about $60 but that was many years ago.

I don't use it any more on my motorhome because I installed a Amp-L-Start and it keeps my chassis battery charged even while storing.

https://www.griotsgarage.com/battery-manager-v/

PS. It's best to ALWAYS include your year, make and model in every single post so that we all know what kind of RV you're talking about. If you add it to your Signature in your Profile you'll not have to remember to add it to your post. Below is an image to show you how to add this to your Signature:

bigb · 07-10-2022, 03:12 PM

I bought a Victron Blue Smart and an extension cable which I connected to the battery and ran it out to the front bumper. Now when I park I just plug it in. The Blue Smart chargers are 4 stage with a storage mode, they also have a recondition mode and charging parameters are adjustable thru a Bluetooth connection. I use a 12/5 for the chassis battery and a 12/15 for the house bank, both have extensions so I just reach up under the bumper or side compartment and pull out the cord and plug in the charger. I carry the 12/15 when traveling in case a charge or a power supply is ever needed at a campsite. If you park in a storage facility you will want the ones that mount in the rig, out of sight (IP-67 series). Mine just lay on my garage floor, they are the IP-65 series.

Winterbagoal · 07-10-2022, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougherzog

Does it come with the plug for the cigarette lighter?

I just had a look at that one online, and it only mentions/shows ring and alligator connectors. No "bullet" for the cigarette lighter outlet.

I found some other battery chargers/maintainers online that don't show the cigar lighter bullet connector, but most of them use an SAE type of connector, and you can buy the SAE 15A fused cigar lighter bullet attachment/connectors separately online as well. You could get something like this and add the SAE cigar lighter "bullet" connector afterwards.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...-0111964p.html
That said, you could use the one Lmonger suggested, and add the SAE bullet connector to it as well. Gotta love Harbor Freight.

BobC · 07-10-2022, 06:20 PM

The Trik-L-Start and it's big brother, the Amp-L-Start are designed to do this. They're an easy DIY install and work perfectly. I've installed both, a Trik-L-Start in a TT and an Amp-L-Start in my MH. They're only available from the manufacturer:

https://www.lslproducts.net/

They're designed so that your house batteries won't discharge.

Dougherzog · 07-11-2022, 07:17 PM

Need help here. My 12 volt DC cigarette lighter receptacle is de-energized when the key is turned off. The Viking 4 amp charger does work fine but I connect it to the chassis battery terminals which is kind of a pain. How do you connect it to the cigarette receptacle without having the key turn on??

Doug H.

2018 View 24V

bigb · 07-11-2022, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougherzog

Need help here. My 12 volt DC cigarette lighter receptacle is de-energized when the key is turned off. The Viking 4 amp charger does work fine but I connect it to the chassis battery terminals which is kind of a pain. How do you connect it to the cigarette receptacle without having the key turn on??

Doug H.

2018 View 24V

Did you check the one under the cup holder? On mine the one in the cupholder is switched but the one underneath it is hot all the time.

Winterbagoal · 07-11-2022, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigb

Did you check the one under the cup holder? On mine the one in the cupholder is switched but the one underneath it is hot all the time.

10-4, copy that, bigb.
Doug, it's the one under the pull out ash tray/cup holder that's always "hot" to the chassis battery. You'll need to add an SAE quick connect connector charging "bullet" to the Viking 4A carger, so that you can put it into that 12VDC outlet, under the pull out ash tray/cup holder.
Like this
https://www.amazon.ca/CUZEC-Cigarett...7G864K3G&psc=1
Or, Harbor Freight might sell one.

bkg · 07-17-2022, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougherzog

I've posted before and have another question. My chassis battery drains down in five days with the battery disconnect, connected, and still drains down in a little over one week if disconnected. Has anyone had luck with adding a charger, regulator to the coach batteries that trickle charge the chassis batteries using the rooftop solar panels? I hope I said this correctly.

If you have had your battery disconnected as you stated and the battery still drains, it is very likely that you have a shorted cell in the battery that is draining it down. As much of a pain as it is to remove the chassis battery, I recommend pulling it and taking it to a local auto shop to have the battery test before you go through hoops of connecting a trickle charger.
A healthy battery should not drain within 5 days - especially when disconnected. If the battery is found to be good you should investigate with a DC amp meter for amp draw with everything turned off.

Bobby

Morich · 07-17-2022, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkg

If you have had your battery disconnected as you stated and the battery still drains, it is very likely that you have a shorted cell in the battery that is draining it down. As much of a pain as it is to remove the chassis battery, I recommend pulling it and taking it to a local auto shop to have the battery test before you go through hoops of connecting a trickle charger.
A healthy battery should not drain within 5 days - especially when disconnected. If the battery is found to be good you should investigate with a DC amp meter for amp draw with everything turned off.

Bobby

I think they meant disconnected with the disconnect switch?
The problem with that is it DOESN"T disconnect ALL the drain on the battery as the safety equipment is left on. CO, propane detectors and steps are still working in most RV.

CaptainMitch · 07-17-2022, 07:23 PM

The issue is less about being able to charge the battery, than diagnosing the issue.
With this simple test you can determine the problem.
1) Disconnect the battery terminals. If the battery still looses power over time at a similar rate, you have a bad battery.
2) If the battery does not drain when disconnected, then you have a power drain, likely caused by a a short (wire touching chassis or some other conductive surface.
3) If the issue is due to a short you can take to an electrical shop for professional diagnostics or use and own meter and start disconnecting fuses until the ohm loss stops and you have found the circuit with the problem.

Winterbagoal · 07-17-2022, 07:33 PM

"

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougherzog

Has anyone had luck with adding a charger, regulator to the coach batteries that trickle charge the chassis batteries using the rooftop solar panels? I hope I said this correctly.

Sounds like a secondary question about charging/maintaining the chassis battery from the coach batteries to me. The coach is 5 model years old, so the chassis battery may be weaker, but still functional, with a secondary charging system added to keep it up.

BobC · 07-17-2022, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

"Has anyone had luck with adding a charger, regulator to the coach batteries that trickle charge the chassis batteries using the rooftop solar panels? I hope I said this correctly." Sounds like a secondary question about charging/maintaining the chassis battery from the coach batteries to me. The coach is 5 model years old, so the chassis battery may be weaker, but still functional, with a secondary charging system added to keep it up.

See post #9.

bkg · 07-17-2022, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

I think they meant disconnected with the disconnect switch?
The problem with that is it DOESN"T disconnect ALL the drain on the battery as the safety equipment is left on. CO, propane detectors and steps are still working in most RV.

True, I guess I read too much into it being "disconnect" however, lack of detail from the OP of how the chassis is being disconnected, I jumped to my own conclusion.
My method is to completely disconnect, removing the battery cable from the positive and connect my batteryminder to my batteries to keep them topped off and desulphated.

Last month when the temps in my area broke 100*F my charge wizard nearly boiled out my batteries. That's when I learned more about battery charging and temperature compensation. I shut off the charge wizard and went to the BatteryMinder. I will be considering the BatteryMinder with
battery temperature monitoring upgrade. Too soon to switch to Lithium; only 2 year on my 6-volt deep cycle set.

Bobby

Morich · 07-18-2022, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkg

True, I guess I read too much into it being "disconnect" however, lack of detail from the OP of how the chassis is being disconnected, I jumped to my own conclusion.
My method is to completely disconnect, removing the battery cable from the positive and connect my batteryminder to my batteries to keep them topped off and desulphated.

Last month when the temps in my area broke 100*F my charge wizard nearly boiled out my batteries. That's when I learned more about battery charging and temperature compensation. I shut off the charge wizard and went to the BatteryMinder. I will be considering the BatteryMinder with
battery temperature monitoring upgrade. Too soon to switch to Lithium; only 2 year on my 6-volt deep cycle set.

Bobby

Yes, this communications stuff is lots harder than we think and many times the only person knowing what we mean is US! I find that true with my wife all the time!
I get caught all the time not knowing which plant she means I should dig up?

I'm getting better at not starting until I KNOW!