Sagging Front Sleeper Panel

djswinnebago · 04-07-2020, 03:53 PM

My trim on the front of the house sleeper has sagged down and the fiberglass panel is loose on the outside passenger side. Does anyone know if I can drill up though that trim and use metal screws to re-secure that trim and panel? I believe there is a metal brace on the inside edge of the sleeper I could screw up into.

Thanks
Dennis.

**Eagle5** · 04-07-2020, 05:24 PM

That is the area which seems to be most leak-prone for the Class Cs, so I fear it could be wood rot inside. In an effort to improve the design, Winnebago added the front cap (at least as an option) to prevent water incursion.
What year is your 31C Minnie Winnie? The older it is, the poorer the prognosis, should it be from a leak which has been working on the structure for a long period of time.

djswinnebago · 04-07-2020, 06:23 PM

Hi Eagle 5, it's a 2004. I fixed the drivers side, same panel by sliding a long piece of sheet metal between the panel and the trim and then finishing it with the recommended winnebago sealant, (forget the name of it right now) and it worked well. but was thinking on this side I could drill up through the trim into the metal brace on the inside of the sleeper and secure with sheet metal screws. I'm pretty sure there are no electrical wires at this location. Not sure what you mean by a "front cap"? Anyway was wondering if anyone knew if there were any wires at this location? Thanks Dennis.

youracman · 04-07-2020, 09:33 PM

Dennis, I looked up the body wiring diagrams at the WBGO site and they show a 2004 331C (a Minnie 31C) and a 431C (a Minnie Winnie 31C). I saw no 12v wiring shown in the cabover area on their installation dwgs but there was a 110v line feeding a receptacle (on the driver's side I believe.) Even then, it was run in the ceiling and then down to the receptacle on the sidewall so one wouldn't need to worry even on the driver's side when drilling upward. You might want to look those dwgs over. They are at the WBGO Industries site:
https://winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/ then on the left side, click on "Wiring Diagrams-Motorized" to find your rig.

I believe the "end cap" Eagle 5 was referring to is that WBGO (and just about all manufacturers) finally gave up on the huge front window there at the cabover.....like your 31C has ..... too much movement + bird impact, etc, and just prone to leak. The later models just have a window-less cap for the front piece....so to speak. My 31C has side windows, but no front window.

I have to admit I don't know for sure about the screws in that front trim piece, but I had always thought they just went into the 3/4 in side panel. I had to replace the vinyl insert in that trim piece on the driver's side on mine, and I recall those screws (that the vinyl insert piece covered up) and I just really believed that they went into the sidewall panel. I just recall in my mind that the backset on those pre-drilled trim pieces was just about enough to be centered on the sidewall piece; i.e., about 3/8 inch or so back from the edge of the sidewall. I'll look closer the next time I am over at the storage lot........maybe that trim piece is a lot wider than I remember it.

You might give Winnebago Customer Care a call tomorrow at (800) 537-1885 - Toll Free or (641) 585-6939. Ask to speak to a tech ...... they are usually pretty helpful and it's a good service they offer to WBGO owners. Have your rig's WBGO serial number ready when you call (not the VIN) and they will pull up the records on your coach. They have a lot more detailed dwgs and other info at their disposal, I believe, than what is listed on their Winebago Industries site for us for us owners to struggle with.

Anyway, good luck with the project, and safe travels.

djswinnebago · 04-08-2020, 06:48 AM

Thanks Ed, yeah I looked at the wiring diagrams previously and didn't see anything in that trim area. Yes there is a 110 vt outlet in that vicinity but the wiring doesn't run along that line.. It's raining today but as soon as I can I 'm going to try and run some self tapping metal screws up through that trim and see if I can catch that metal brace inside. I could fix it the same way I did on the drivers side but this way would give it more support. Thanks for your insight. Hope we can get back to RVing soon, already had a planned Blue Grass concert canx on us. Cheers

P.S. I understand the cap issue now by looking at some pictures. Probably a good idea. I don't have any windows in mine.

**Eagle5** · 04-08-2020, 10:14 AM

Hi Dennis,
When I factory-ordered mine, the front cap was an $870 option, so I was asking about why it was needed. I believe it also adds rigidity, making the area stronger. Eager to see photos of your repair!
Thanks, Eagle5

djswinnebago · 04-08-2020, 12:04 PM

I'm just wondering if anyone else on the Winnie Online Community has done this repair? I'm sure many have. If you have please contribute to my post. Thanks

**Eagle5** · 04-08-2020, 03:44 PM

Hi Dennis,
I found two generalized cab over repairs, but I don't know how this construction matches the Minnie Winnie 31C, nor if your damage is nearly as extensive. The iRV2 Forum also has some chatter about it.
FYI; Eagle5

Rebuilding the Over Cab of Our Class C RV

RV Rehab Class C Water Damage DIY

djswinnebago · 04-08-2020, 08:03 PM

Thanks, mine is no where near this serious. I worked on it some today. Think I have a good plan. I'll post some pictures after I get it back together. Thanks again!!

**Eagle5** · 04-08-2020, 08:34 PM

Hi again Dennis,
So from the sound of it, this isn't rot damage, but rather is vibrational damage. I have had good luck with JB Weld in a variety of applications. I even used sixteen packages of it when I was converting a tub that was never intended to be a shower too, by bonding aluminum "T" extrusions on the edges:
J-B Weld 8265S Original Cold-Weld Steel Reinforced Epoxy - 2 oz.

In addition to a good epoxy, I have found GuardDogs to be the strongest corrosion-proof screws you can buy:
FastenMaster FMGD003-1750 GuardDog Exterior Wood Screw, Tan, 3-Inch, 1750-Pack

If you use these, the square-drive bit is easier to keep engaged, rather than the chubby Philips driver supplied.
Good luck with the repairs!
Eagle5

djswinnebago · 05-04-2020, 04:26 AM

I finished my repair on the front sleeper panel. I went inside the cab over and slide some 16 gauge metal pieces under the frame. Drilled back up through the 16 gauge from the outside trim and used some ss metal screws to secure the panel trim. Inserted a one inch wide shim of sheet metal in the trim slot to give it some more support. Caulked it with Manus. You will notice my job on the inside is not finished real neat but none of this shows because my tv is right in this area. Used more caulk than I would like appearance wise but it should hold good.

djswinnebago · 05-04-2020, 04:32 AM

Sorry the pics turned sideways for some reason