Poor AC performance

crah · 06-15-2020, 07:42 AM

Noticed a couple of weeks ago that my AC struggles once 90 degrees hit. Seems once i hot 100 degrees, the most I can get inside the View is 85 degrees. Living in the Southwest this isn't going to work. Have had numerous previous motorhomes and never had this problem. Are there any common problems that the views could have? Seems my supply/return difference is about 18 degrees which is within spec. I've sealed my plenum, insulated the roof box, etc and it may have helped 2-3 degrees.

NYBobbo · 06-15-2020, 09:41 AM

My View has single pane windows and the bunk over. I use reflective bubble in the windows including the sun roof (in summer at least on the sunny side) and drape off the cabin area and close the upper bunk curtains (effectively removing the cab as a heat source and decreasing the sq footage. some of my roof is shaded by the two solar panels

This seems to be effective in assisting the AC, you may not get it "cold" but it should be comfortable.

In addition if it's very humid you have to check for the AC freezing and may have to cycle it off to deice it.

good luck

Morich · 06-15-2020, 11:02 AM

Sometimes we get caught in using things for full time when they were not designed for that. Possible the Rv you have is just not made for that use but then some things might also be checked to get the best.
When insulating, did you keep in mind that the Ac has to have lots of airflow to let it blow off the heat? We sometimes see folks build covers to hide the Ac and then it fails because it can't move the hot air out and away. Maybe rather than insulation, shade might get it done better?
Just suggestions for thought that may be totally wrong without knowing what you really have.

crah · 06-15-2020, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

Sometimes we get caught in using things for full time when they were not designed for that. Possible the Rv you have is just not made for that use but then some things might also be checked to get the best.
When insulating, did you keep in mind that the Ac has to have lots of airflow to let it blow off the heat? We sometimes see folks build covers to hide the Ac and then it fails because it can't move the hot air out and away. Maybe rather than insulation, shade might get it done better?
Just suggestions for thought that may be totally wrong without knowing what you really have.

The RV is plugged in next to my house like all previous RV's. I insulated and taped up the seams in the AC evaporator box on the roof (which is common for poor insulation) and should be insulated. I did not insulate or cover the shroud. This View has a 15k Coleman heat pump. Not the best or worst AC. Just average. Seems the fan has pretty good power but just not cooling the RV like I expected. Have numerous RV's to compare to so something seems off (currently have a class B on the drive as well). Figured there's got to be something that can be improved? Anyone else in Vegas that has/had similar problems?

**creativepart** · 06-15-2020, 11:34 AM

This is normal for a Class C with a single AC. Your only hope is to block ALL sun from the windows especially the front windshield. Then you need to park in the shade and realize that in the afternoons the AC will not keep up.

The beauty of it is... you can drive to cooler temps and everything works perfectly again.

You can expect your AC to be effective to lower indoor temps by about ~18 degrees. So, at 100 you're looking at low 80's inside. If you went somewhere that was 85 outside you'd be a comfortable 71 without problem and room to spare.

If your View is not new, get on the roof and take the AC cover off and thoroughly clean the coils and seal any inside air leaks. There are plenty of YouTube videos about this.

NYBobbo · 06-15-2020, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morich

Sometimes we get caught in using things for full time when they were not designed for that. Possible the Rv you have is just not made for that use but then some things might also be checked to get the best.

Many others have complained over the years about the cooling system.

Regardless, as to the amount of use these units get they are supposed to be engineered to travel and use for 3/4+ of the year throughout the country and the many climates that one would encounter except for dead of winter. I can say one thing for sure it's better to overuse (if that's possible) an RV than to have it just sit.

I know that it was a poor choice to paint the cab-over a dark brown on my 2016. It absorbs heat like crazy. It's just another bad build decision. Winnebago (and other RV manufacturers) often fall short on many engineering issues. Perhaps these units really need a larger capacity AC, It seems often times they skimp on quality to save money and weight.

peggwn · 06-15-2020, 01:23 PM

While this is a Class C discussion, many of the comments and suggestions probably also apply to Class As and perhaps even Class Bs. For example, we try to park in shaded areas. If there isn't any, then we try to park with the front windows facing NE to cut down on the hotter afternoon sun exposure. And we also extend the awning if winds permit to shade the southern exposure wall as much as possible. The 10 watt solar panel up top provides minimal relief, if any.

I know that when we swapped out the front TV I took the time to insulate the front cap. It was an empty air space across the top of the whole front window that generated heat to add to the heat from those giant front windows. Since then, and when our front shades are drawn (when parked, of course), the temp is noticably cooler. By the way, it is also cooler when travelling because the cap is insulated. I reckon the AC probably is not having to work so hard to reduce that 18 degree gap it needs to achieve a state of "coolness".

SLOweather · 06-15-2020, 04:16 PM

it definitely applies to Class As. We were told when we bough this Sunstar that the single roof AC would only cool the inside ~20 degrees from ambient.

I have spent enough time now thinking about this RV and our previous Suncruiser to make some comparisons and come t some conclusions.

Item Suncruiser Sunstar
Length 31' 31'

MAx wt 15,000 16,000
Spare tire yes no
ACs 2 1
Generator 6.5 kW 4kW
Driver door Yes No
Inside Storage More Less
Seats/Sleeps 6 7
Leveling Jacks No Yes
Slide Room No Yes
Etc

Conclusion, In order to make the current buyers happy with new shiny amenities, they drop or skimp on things we used to take for granted for things people want now, and still make the weight.

BobC · 06-15-2020, 04:21 PM

Don't let a heat load build up before running your A/C. If you overcool in the morning when outside temps are cooler, it will perform better later. Also, I've found that running it off the generator while driving helps a lot once we get to the campground.

crah · 06-15-2020, 06:17 PM

Thanks all for your suggestions. I've seen all suggestions like these in other manufacturer forums as well. I'm surprised more people haven't had complaints on the View. I definitely see problems with the design of the overall AC unit. The 15k would seem adequate if everything else was installed properly. I've read in the thor forums where the ceiling ducting extends to nowhere. While searching for the awning bluetooth receiver (different thread I started), i found a big area with no ceiling insulation as well as much of air escaping from the ceiling ducts. See the picture of the are with no insulation. There is a bunch of air from the ceiling ducts that blow in this area. You can see the daylight outside through the raw uninsulated.

Having other RV's to compare to, this doesn't seem like an issue that one has to live with. Seems there's room for improvement in the View anyways.

BobC · 06-15-2020, 06:20 PM

I'm not sure if this will help but I ran across this Youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTo9xGqSeEI&t=1101s

crah · 06-15-2020, 06:21 PM

See pictures for reference. This area has a bunch of air escaping from the ceiling ducts. Looks like I need to deal up some of the ducts.

crah · 06-15-2020, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

I'm not sure if this will help but I ran across this Youtube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTo9xGqSeEI&t=1101s

Thanks, I'm actually subscribed to that channel lol. My View is only a couple months old so dont have issues of it being dirty. I did blow put the evap with compressed air as the original install has some loose pieces of styrofoam in the evaporator. I've checked all those area while insulating the evaporator.

BirchyBoy · 06-15-2020, 10:43 PM

Do you have the Chill Grill? I’m convinced that the limited intake air on those hampers the performance. There is only about 8 square inches of intake space. I intend to buy a regular grill for mine and see if it helps.

crah · 06-15-2020, 11:10 PM

Yes I have the chill grill. I believe both the supply and return are being restricted. I have taken the chill grill off completely and the AC unit definitely gets restricted with the grill. I've done lots of searching and unfortunately many people have the same answer that this is the best it will get. That part I know is not true, as I have another class B in my driveway right now with no issues and up to about 4 months ago i had a class A for the last 9 years with no issues. Both those ad domestics though. I had a 5th wheel prior with a coleman 13k that had no issues either so I dont believe the single pane or size is a factor (either though they dont help). On one of the thor forums during my search, some people put in extra vents on the chill grill on both the supply and return. Another big factor was that the ceiling ductwork extended beyond the grills to nowhere land and the cold air getting lost in the ceiling. I thought it was a thor poor quality build item and didnt think it would be on a View....until today. The ducts in the ceiling in 1 area in the front goes to no where land and vents into an uninsulated fiberglass section in my pictures. I'm sure there are other areas too. I plan on putting a camera up there and sealing any areas that extend beyond the vents unnecessarily.

BirchyBoy · 06-15-2020, 11:57 PM

Good luck tracking everything down. I bought a 5 square inch vent to add to the supply side but haven’t done it yet. I think I’ll try the regular grill first which has a larger intake side.

Dmarcian · 06-16-2020, 05:12 AM

Crah - when we stop in very hot weather and the roof a/c struggles to cool the coach down I turn on the motor and run the coach a/c on high and that really helps. We never have a problem getting the coach comfortable at night. I know it’s not a perfect solution but it works. We bought dual pane windows solely for the insulation factor, hopefully they will help with that issue.

crah · 06-16-2020, 07:23 AM

After my next trip, I think I will deal up the ducting first, and then tackle adding the supply and return vents at the chill grill.

Goodspike · 06-16-2020, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobC

Don't let a heat load build up before running your A/C. If you overcool in the morning when outside temps are cooler, it will perform better later. Also, I've found that running it off the generator while driving helps a lot once we get to the campground.

This is probably the best advice. For underpowered home AC's the trick is to not let it heat up first, because some may have trouble just maintaining temp, so they won't lower it.

Also, I've never really thought about it before, but when moving an RV AC may be more efficient or even powerful due to the increased airflow. Again never really thought about it, but I assume they are designed so that the fan doesn't work against the natural flow while moving.

crah · 06-16-2020, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goodspike

This is probably the best advice. For underpowered home AC's the trick is to not let it heat up first, because some may have trouble just maintaining temp, so they won't lower it.

Also, I've never really thought about it before, but when moving an RV AC may be more efficient or even powerful due to the increased airflow. Again never really thought about it, but I assume they are designed so that the fan doesn't work against the natural flow while moving.

I leave mine plugged in and AC turned on a full week before any trip. I agree it's best to start with cool temps. That's not the issue here.

Coleman mach 10's run the fan backwards so it less efficient while moving. The condenser is in the rear of the AC and the fan socks the air into the AC unit and it goes out the side. In the mach 8 models they changed that. Some people have installed their units backwards to fix that problem. I dont have an issue while driving because the sprinter cab chassis AC works great.